Could anyone with experience on this subject let me know the proper procedure for trimming a buffer spring. Thanks.
- Thread starter STI_1911_Guy
- Start date
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
A coil can be clipped, then test fire before trimming more.
But its quite possibly addressing a symptom rather than the problem itself.
Tell us what's happening with your weapon, and maybe alternate solutions can be suggested. Also share details about what type of spring, buffer, BCG, ammo, etc that are being used.
A coil can be clipped, then test fire before trimming more.
But its quite possibly addressing a symptom rather than the problem itself.
Tell us what's happening with your weapon, and maybe alternate solutions can be suggested. Also share details about what type of spring, buffer, BCG, ammo, etc that are being used.
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
^^^What he said^^^
^^^What he said^^^
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
As has been posted, a simple snip with a cutting dike would do the job, then file any sharp edge so as to not scratch up the buffer.
I'm no expert, but I've never heard of a problem where cutting the buffer spring is a solution.
Just out of curiosity, what is the reason you want to shorten it?
As has been posted, a simple snip with a cutting dike would do the job, then file any sharp edge so as to not scratch up the buffer.
I'm no expert, but I've never heard of a problem where cutting the buffer spring is a solution.
Just out of curiosity, what is the reason you want to shorten it?
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
Step 1.
Place hand on table. Tape down if necessary.
Step 2.
Carefully, smash with hammer held in opposite hand.
Step 3.
Repeat until hitting yourself with the hammer seems just as dumb as "trimming" the buffer spring.
Step 1.
Place hand on table. Tape down if necessary.
Step 2.
Carefully, smash with hammer held in opposite hand.
Step 3.
Repeat until hitting yourself with the hammer seems just as dumb as "trimming" the buffer spring.
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: STI_1911_Guy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have a dpms LR 260 remington and have been having problems with it cycling. First off i have replaced the original A2 buttstock with a magpul PRS stock. It was a gift from the girlfriend for christmas. with good intentions but not knowing better she got the ar-15 version not AR-10. In the instructions it said it would work fine functionally on either but the charging handle would hit if the cheek piece is raised when using the ar-15 stock on an ar-10. I dont believe this is an issue in my cycling due to what the instructions said but correct me if im wrong. Now i have fired remington cor-lokt 140 gr and it seems to cycle fine(40rounds). when i tried federal 120gr ballistic tip it would cycle once in a blue moon but never lock the bolt back on the final round. The same goes for the couple handloads i have tried with REM brass hodgdon 414 45 grains and sierra matchking 123 gr federal 210 match primer, Corbon 143 grain sierra matchking. On all the handloads/Federal/Corbon ammo it would always eject the spent case but only once in a great while pick up a new round, but never lock back the bolt. I have tried a couple different mags same results. I have not seen any gas leaks but i am going to try to upload some pictures i have taken of the port and barrel, if they upload correctly great if not sorry and i hope my description alone will help. Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. </div></div>
Let's address your real problem first. Take it to a smith. You don't want to mess with things that can kill you, especially when you sound like you don't know what you're doing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: STI_1911_Guy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I have a dpms LR 260 remington and have been having problems with it cycling. First off i have replaced the original A2 buttstock with a magpul PRS stock. It was a gift from the girlfriend for christmas. with good intentions but not knowing better she got the ar-15 version not AR-10. In the instructions it said it would work fine functionally on either but the charging handle would hit if the cheek piece is raised when using the ar-15 stock on an ar-10. I dont believe this is an issue in my cycling due to what the instructions said but correct me if im wrong. Now i have fired remington cor-lokt 140 gr and it seems to cycle fine(40rounds). when i tried federal 120gr ballistic tip it would cycle once in a blue moon but never lock the bolt back on the final round. The same goes for the couple handloads i have tried with REM brass hodgdon 414 45 grains and sierra matchking 123 gr federal 210 match primer, Corbon 143 grain sierra matchking. On all the handloads/Federal/Corbon ammo it would always eject the spent case but only once in a great while pick up a new round, but never lock back the bolt. I have tried a couple different mags same results. I have not seen any gas leaks but i am going to try to upload some pictures i have taken of the port and barrel, if they upload correctly great if not sorry and i hope my description alone will help. Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. </div></div>
Let's address your real problem first. Take it to a smith. You don't want to mess with things that can kill you, especially when you sound like you don't know what you're doing.
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
It could be a variety of things but one thing it is NOT is your buffer spring. A decent gunsmith should be able to find your problem and it will save you in the long run, cutting your spring could cause other problems.
It could be a variety of things but one thing it is NOT is your buffer spring. A decent gunsmith should be able to find your problem and it will save you in the long run, cutting your spring could cause other problems.
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
Not to make matters worse for you....I've seen gunsmiths who are not good with AR rifles.
Not to make matters worse for you....I've seen gunsmiths who are not good with AR rifles.
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
I would say take it to a decent gunsmith and go from there
I would say take it to a decent gunsmith and go from there
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
After seeing your included post, it is a gas problem, but snipping the buffer spring is not the solution.
Did you do the work on the gun, install the gas block, tube, rails etc., or receive the gun in it's current configuration?
After seeing your included post, it is a gas problem, but snipping the buffer spring is not the solution.
Did you do the work on the gun, install the gas block, tube, rails etc., or receive the gun in it's current configuration?
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
Did all this start after replacing the stock? If it did, make sure the screw in the back of the stock is not too long and preventing the buffer from coming all the way back. I've seen this exact thing happen before...
Did all this start after replacing the stock? If it did, make sure the screw in the back of the stock is not too long and preventing the buffer from coming all the way back. I've seen this exact thing happen before...
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
This was my original problem:
<span style="font-style: italic"> I have a dpms LR 260 remington and have been having problems with it cycling. First off i have replaced the original A2 buttstock with a magpul PRS stock. It was a gi</span>ft from the girlfriend for christmas. with good intentions but not knowing better she got the ar-15 version not AR-10. In the instructions it said it would work fine functionally on either but the charging handle would hit if the cheek piece is raised when using the ar-15 stock on an ar-10. I dont believe this is an issue in my cycling due to what the instructions said but correct me if im wrong. Now i have fired remington cor-lokt 140 gr and it seems to cycle fine(40rounds). when i tried federal 120gr ballistic tip it would cycle once in a blue moon but never lock the bolt back on the final round. The same goes for the couple handloads i have tried with REM brass hodgdon 414 45 grains and sierra matchking 123 gr federal 210 match primer, Corbon 143 grain sierra matchking. On all the handloads/Federal/Corbon ammo it would always eject the spent case but only once in a great while pick up a new round, but never lock back the bolt. I have tried a couple different mags same results.
Now the buffer seems fine it does not look like it is hitting the screw on the buffer tube. Also when you cycle the bolt by hand it feels smooth and it will lock open just fine. Also as i said earlier it will function with remington 140 gr cor lokt fine but nothing else including the corbon 143 gr ammo. As far as cutting the buffer spring it was a suggestion from another member. Also i did put the quad rail hand guard on myself but when i placed the gas block back on(I have done others and never had a problem)the set screws have dimples in the barrel where they sit and are pretty easy to get back in place. I would like to shoot the 123gr bullets.The barrel is stamped 1:8.5 twist so i assume they would expect people to shoot lighter bullets than the 140's.
This was my original problem:
<span style="font-style: italic"> I have a dpms LR 260 remington and have been having problems with it cycling. First off i have replaced the original A2 buttstock with a magpul PRS stock. It was a gi</span>ft from the girlfriend for christmas. with good intentions but not knowing better she got the ar-15 version not AR-10. In the instructions it said it would work fine functionally on either but the charging handle would hit if the cheek piece is raised when using the ar-15 stock on an ar-10. I dont believe this is an issue in my cycling due to what the instructions said but correct me if im wrong. Now i have fired remington cor-lokt 140 gr and it seems to cycle fine(40rounds). when i tried federal 120gr ballistic tip it would cycle once in a blue moon but never lock the bolt back on the final round. The same goes for the couple handloads i have tried with REM brass hodgdon 414 45 grains and sierra matchking 123 gr federal 210 match primer, Corbon 143 grain sierra matchking. On all the handloads/Federal/Corbon ammo it would always eject the spent case but only once in a great while pick up a new round, but never lock back the bolt. I have tried a couple different mags same results.
Now the buffer seems fine it does not look like it is hitting the screw on the buffer tube. Also when you cycle the bolt by hand it feels smooth and it will lock open just fine. Also as i said earlier it will function with remington 140 gr cor lokt fine but nothing else including the corbon 143 gr ammo. As far as cutting the buffer spring it was a suggestion from another member. Also i did put the quad rail hand guard on myself but when i placed the gas block back on(I have done others and never had a problem)the set screws have dimples in the barrel where they sit and are pretty easy to get back in place. I would like to shoot the 123gr bullets.The barrel is stamped 1:8.5 twist so i assume they would expect people to shoot lighter bullets than the 140's.
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
My friend recently had a similar problems with his AR-10. He sent it back to the manufacturer who opened up the gas port on the barrel. When they test fired it, it still had a problem cycling, they then determined that the gas port on the gas block was undersized, and replaced the gas block. Problem solved.
Regards,
Rick
My friend recently had a similar problems with his AR-10. He sent it back to the manufacturer who opened up the gas port on the barrel. When they test fired it, it still had a problem cycling, they then determined that the gas port on the gas block was undersized, and replaced the gas block. Problem solved.
Regards,
Rick
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
I agree with Exhogflyer, if the problems you mentioned started after you installed the PRS stock then its not a gas problem. Now if you have had problems all along, regardless of which stock is on the rifle then I would lend creed to the gas problem.
You are running a rifle lenght buffer and buffer spring on the PRS correct? heres a link to trimming a spring, a dremel is all you need.
By the way Magpul did at one stage make a conversion kit for using the AR15 version on a AR10/SR25
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1986342
I agree with Exhogflyer, if the problems you mentioned started after you installed the PRS stock then its not a gas problem. Now if you have had problems all along, regardless of which stock is on the rifle then I would lend creed to the gas problem.
You are running a rifle lenght buffer and buffer spring on the PRS correct? heres a link to trimming a spring, a dremel is all you need.
By the way Magpul did at one stage make a conversion kit for using the AR15 version on a AR10/SR25
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1986342
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
Leave it alone and buy the proper buffer spring. They are cheap and not worth the effort of cutting it down.
BJ - F***'in Hilarious!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Step 1.
Place hand on table. Tape down if necessary.
Step 2.
Carefully, smash with hammer held in opposite hand.
Step 3.
Repeat until hitting yourself with the hammer seems just as dumb as "trimming" the buffer spring.</div></div>
Leave it alone and buy the proper buffer spring. They are cheap and not worth the effort of cutting it down.
BJ - F***'in Hilarious!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Step 1.
Place hand on table. Tape down if necessary.
Step 2.
Carefully, smash with hammer held in opposite hand.
Step 3.
Repeat until hitting yourself with the hammer seems just as dumb as "trimming" the buffer spring.</div></div>
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
So i called dpms and they said to send it in. They said it should not be having problems with the other ammo and to send it to them. So with that being said i am going to give it to them and if they say nothing is wrong then its back to the adjustable gas block and different powders.But before i soak a bunch of money into parts that may not fix it i would like to let the warranty do its thing. I will let every body know what happens and hopefully its fixed.
So i called dpms and they said to send it in. They said it should not be having problems with the other ammo and to send it to them. So with that being said i am going to give it to them and if they say nothing is wrong then its back to the adjustable gas block and different powders.But before i soak a bunch of money into parts that may not fix it i would like to let the warranty do its thing. I will let every body know what happens and hopefully its fixed.
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
Did you read this post, I would be very careful about sending something back to DPMS after seeing this, is a there a quality smith local, that you could take the rifle to, or perhaps change the gas block out to something like a JP adjustable.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2321923&page=1
Did you read this post, I would be very careful about sending something back to DPMS after seeing this, is a there a quality smith local, that you could take the rifle to, or perhaps change the gas block out to something like a JP adjustable.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2321923&page=1
Re: How do you "trim" a buffer spring?
I'd try Clint at http://www.heavybuffers.com/ before anything else.
I'd try Clint at http://www.heavybuffers.com/ before anything else.
Similar threads
