- Thread starter Mainer
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In of itself, probably not a whole lot if you already have solid fundamentals, but if it's going to result in much better ergonomics, and fitment to you personally, like a shorter or longer LOP, etc.....trigger reach, it can make a decent enough measurable difference to square you up better.
Way too many variables for this to be an answerable question ... just changing from stock to chassis will have one of three possible results:
- It will shoot better
- It will shoot worse
- It will shoot the same
I’d say it depends. Compared to the cheap stock on a T1x I would say yes. 457, it depends on what stock yours came in. Mine came in a Manners. I feel that the adjustability of a chassis to help optimize yourself behind the rifle which in turn will make it more comfortable would help accuracy.
I have the CZ 457 MTR in the nice Walnut stock. My only issue is the plastic pillars so there are 2 options
1 I can have my local gunsmith drill out the plastic pillars and install bedded aluminum ones
2 Get a chassis system.
I am waiting for Scott at Mcree to reopen after moving or get a MPA ACC chassis.
I have done about all the modes you can to the MTR Area 419 rail and bolt knob, Tinmey trigger, Lilja 22im .900 barrel, and Pet's Pillars firing pin.
1 I can have my local gunsmith drill out the plastic pillars and install bedded aluminum ones
2 Get a chassis system.
I am waiting for Scott at Mcree to reopen after moving or get a MPA ACC chassis.
I have done about all the modes you can to the MTR Area 419 rail and bolt knob, Tinmey trigger, Lilja 22im .900 barrel, and Pet's Pillars firing pin.
How much total are you into this rifle at this point? Then when you add the cost of the chassis?
Thanks, truly curious to know.
This is exactly why I went with a chassis. I could make it fit me and my style of shooting and being able to do this allowed me to shoot my rifle better.
Ok so here goes and this will be total including tax, shipping and any fee's
CZ 457 $ 878.30
AREA 419 Rail and knob $ 129 45
Lilja 22in .900 $ 538.00
Timney Trigger $ 160. 00 (got from a guy on the Hide)
Pete's Pillars Firing pin $ 44.99
SubTotal $1590.74
ADD 6-36x56 Ziess LRP S3 $1890.00
remove Tract Torric 4.5-30x56 $ 1450 (came with rings)
AccuTac WB4 Bipod $ 325.00
Total ready to shoot $ 3805.74 (New Total with Zeiss)
I am into my Vudoo about $5400 with the new Zeiss S3 LRP 6-36X56 i just got.
CZ 457 $ 878.30
AREA 419 Rail and knob $ 129 45
Lilja 22in .900 $ 538.00
Timney Trigger $ 160. 00 (got from a guy on the Hide)
Pete's Pillars Firing pin $ 44.99
SubTotal $1590.74
ADD 6-36x56 Ziess LRP S3 $1890.00
remove Tract Torric 4.5-30x56 $ 1450 (came with rings)
AccuTac WB4 Bipod $ 325.00
Total ready to shoot $ 3805.74 (New Total with Zeiss)
I am into my Vudoo about $5400 with the new Zeiss S3 LRP 6-36X56 i just got.
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So $1750 and change minus the TT 4.5-30 then lets say you go with the MDT ACC at $1300ish your at $3050-$3100...Stuff starts adding up quick.
I like chassis in general. Especially compared to cheap plastic stocks like the T1X comes with.
I have a 15.5” LOP. So almost no factory stocks feel great for LOP. About every chassis or stock I run is maxed out
Couple that with ability to add rails, accessories, weight etc and it becomes an easy choice. Cost aside of course. You also don’t get the forend flex like a cheap stock has. As well as aluminum bedding blocks etc
There have been people who put the T1X in a chassis then moved back to original stock. Stating the weight savings and for their use they couldn’t see the accuracy difference between the two
My B14R has a decent factory stock. Warming up to it a lot
T1X KRG Bravo
B14R factory
Vudoo 360/MDT ACC
Weights listed below rifles
I have a 15.5” LOP. So almost no factory stocks feel great for LOP. About every chassis or stock I run is maxed out
Couple that with ability to add rails, accessories, weight etc and it becomes an easy choice. Cost aside of course. You also don’t get the forend flex like a cheap stock has. As well as aluminum bedding blocks etc
There have been people who put the T1X in a chassis then moved back to original stock. Stating the weight savings and for their use they couldn’t see the accuracy difference between the two
My B14R has a decent factory stock. Warming up to it a lot
T1X KRG Bravo
B14R factory
Vudoo 360/MDT ACC
Weights listed below rifles
I bet plenty of folks run a chasis because they look cool.
I'll probably get lots of hate for saying that
I'll probably get lots of hate for saying that
The ability to customize a chassis in every way, shape and form aside yes they definitely look “cool” compared to a throw away Tupperware stock
I am the same way.
This is why I shoot a chassis...that and the adjust-ability...Honestly I to prefer stock's but I've been shooting with chassis's so long now I doubt I will ever go back to a stock.
I'm sure your aluminum block bolts to your action in a spectacularly different way than my aluminum block does.
Of course people buy their aluminum block based on astetics. Cost, adjustibility and the need of bolting stupid doodads plays a factor too. But the main benefit of a rigid foundation to bolt to that is easy to utilize by the end-user is the primary reason chassis took off. Only makes sense customers are going to focus on looks and feel.
Still better than bolting your action to a rotted cracked old block of wood or a flimsy non free-floated Tupperware plastic turd that warps with torque.
Of course people buy their aluminum block based on astetics. Cost, adjustibility and the need of bolting stupid doodads plays a factor too. But the main benefit of a rigid foundation to bolt to that is easy to utilize by the end-user is the primary reason chassis took off. Only makes sense customers are going to focus on looks and feel.
Still better than bolting your action to a rotted cracked old block of wood or a flimsy non free-floated Tupperware plastic turd that warps with torque.
Chassis tend to be heavy, rigid and adjustable. None of those features makes a rifle more precise. They do make it easier to shoot up to the rifles potential and hide shooters suboptimal techniques though. For me it is easier and faster to make shots, but I can make the same shots in a factory stock as well.
Only exception to that is if you have a bad stock now. One that flexes in different positions changing POI.
Only exception to that is if you have a bad stock now. One that flexes in different positions changing POI.
MPA is a better chassis, I won't buy another Mcree after his silly lawsuit about levels on a chassis
I can't give you a definitive answer on this, but I can share my personal experience going from a stock to a chassis in my 10/22.
I build/assembled my rifle with a Kidd 20 inch bull barrel and internals, BX Trigger, and Faxon Receiver and shot it in a factory polymer stock I picked up for $20 while I waited for my MDT Oryx chassis. I did ammo testing with around 14 different ammo types. Everything from cheap Federal Auto Match to Eley Tenex. After switching to the chassis some ammo (same lots) did worse, some were the same, and others did better. I did the ammo testing while shooting the rifle from a cradle/sled so only change was the stock/chassis. Shooting off a bag, bipod, and obstacles were dramatically improved though as handling the rifle was much easy and LOP was correct. The weight also made the rifle much steadier so it was easier to adjust and stay on target.
If you're switching from something like a CZ 457 VMTR or VPT stock to a chassis you probably will see very little difference in accuracy. If you weight it well you'll see improvements in how stable to gun is off bags and obstacles (as others have stated). In the end I'm of the opinion that a higher end stock or chassis is more about comfort and stability than actual accuracy/precision. You will probably see a small improvement as you would with pillars and bedding a decent stock. I've seen people tighten groups up by 0.1-0.2 inches at 50 yards, but that's about the most I would hope for when upgrading to a good chassis.
On the flip side, I've heard of some people having accuracy issues with chassis. The Aluminum frame acts like a tuning fork which can throw off your harmonics. Usually a bare chassis won't do this, but adding weights, rails, etc can all play a factor so it's important to test in stages. I spoke with Vudoo about my build and they mentioned this potential issue (especially with thinner barrels). They said to start with a bare chassis and add weights after initial testing. If accuracy drops off it might be a combination of the weights and accessories.
You can spend all your money on upgrades but if you have poor shooting fundamentals, you will still suck. Remember “it is the Indian, not the arrow.”
Was that patented?
Gixxer2000 - What are you trying to 'correct' or 'improve' ? Under 0.5xx or 0.1xx ? When I can find/buy Lapua up here I can shoot outdoors under 0.3xx, and under 0.5xx with 'run of the mill' SV like SK+. That's with a wood-stock VMTR with a Timney 5-6oz and Athlon 8-34x56 - if I can get a 'calm' day
Untold number of 1/4” 50 yard targets. CZ 452”s , Harris bipod, wood stock. Midas ammo. 7x Leupold rinfire.
Chassis can make a difference in utility.
Chassis can make a difference in utility.
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