Building up my first bolt action rifle and my base should come in Monday. I've never mounted a base before, but want to do it right. Is this something that could be easily done myself or should I have it done? I don't want to mount it crooked or have it loosen up and have to deal with it later. Is it as simple as lining up the holes and tightening the bolts? I assume I'll need a torque wrench to set them right and some locktite?
- Thread starter Clicky762
- Start date
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
I'm not the one to ask about this because I just drop it on, line it up, put some Blue Lock-tite on the threads and crank them down! To do it properly takes a lot more like making sure the base exactly matches the contour of your receiver. If I were you I'd have one of the gun-plumbers here on the Hide do it because your average "Gander Mountain Gunsmith" will do it the way I do!!!
FWIW...
I'm not the one to ask about this because I just drop it on, line it up, put some Blue Lock-tite on the threads and crank them down! To do it properly takes a lot more like making sure the base exactly matches the contour of your receiver. If I were you I'd have one of the gun-plumbers here on the Hide do it because your average "Gander Mountain Gunsmith" will do it the way I do!!!
FWIW...
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
It really all depends on how picky you are. Ive seen them simply thrown on and perform as expected. Be careful with the locktight. You probably will eventually want to remove it. Clear nail polish is a good alternative.
It really all depends on how picky you are. Ive seen them simply thrown on and perform as expected. Be careful with the locktight. You probably will eventually want to remove it. Clear nail polish is a good alternative.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
Even the finest bases can benefit from "skim bedding" it to the action.
The argument is the same as bedding an action in a stock.
Use Kiwi natural shoe polish on the actions and the base attachment screws for the release agent. Use your bedding material of choice (I've used Devcon 10110 with good results).
Cameron has some good instructions to get you started.
http://www.murphyprecision.com/Page/Scope_Base_Bedding
Good luck.
Even the finest bases can benefit from "skim bedding" it to the action.
The argument is the same as bedding an action in a stock.
Use Kiwi natural shoe polish on the actions and the base attachment screws for the release agent. Use your bedding material of choice (I've used Devcon 10110 with good results).
Cameron has some good instructions to get you started.
http://www.murphyprecision.com/Page/Scope_Base_Bedding
Good luck.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
If it is a quality base and your mount is level, then use a torque wrench and just tighten to specs. There are different types of loctite with different levels of strength by color.
If it is a quality base and your mount is level, then use a torque wrench and just tighten to specs. There are different types of loctite with different levels of strength by color.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clicky762</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Building up my first bolt action rifle and my base should come in Monday. I've never mounted a base before, but want to do it right. Is this something that could be easily done myself or should I have it done? I don't want to mount it crooked or have it loosen up and have to deal with it later. Is it as simple as lining up the holes and tightening the bolts? I assume I'll need a torque wrench to set them right and some locktite? </div></div>
First thing is hello to all after much lurking about.
I chuck them on there and evenly tighten fasteners in stages dependent on manufacturers recommendations. Badger likes red loctite under the base to keep out water and bed it. I don't like red myself in the event I want to remove it someday. I tend to the blue, sometimes purple loctite depending.
I'm not sure about bedding the base, maybe dependent on use.
For torque wrenches there's a Wiha 20-70(+-6%) in lbs driver for around $135 or the Seekonk 0-75(+-3%) in lb (TSQ-75) wrench for about $175. You might find used fixed torque T handles, used are unknowns for accuracy IMO. Depends on how much you'll use them to justify cost, or if you have a tendency to tighten hell out of stuff.
The whole trick is even tightening in stages, moving around the fasteners after starting. Think about how torquing down the head on an engine is done. It's not as hard as it's made out.
Disclaimer: I'm not a gunsmith, never been accused of it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clicky762</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Building up my first bolt action rifle and my base should come in Monday. I've never mounted a base before, but want to do it right. Is this something that could be easily done myself or should I have it done? I don't want to mount it crooked or have it loosen up and have to deal with it later. Is it as simple as lining up the holes and tightening the bolts? I assume I'll need a torque wrench to set them right and some locktite? </div></div>
First thing is hello to all after much lurking about.
I chuck them on there and evenly tighten fasteners in stages dependent on manufacturers recommendations. Badger likes red loctite under the base to keep out water and bed it. I don't like red myself in the event I want to remove it someday. I tend to the blue, sometimes purple loctite depending.
I'm not sure about bedding the base, maybe dependent on use.
For torque wrenches there's a Wiha 20-70(+-6%) in lbs driver for around $135 or the Seekonk 0-75(+-3%) in lb (TSQ-75) wrench for about $175. You might find used fixed torque T handles, used are unknowns for accuracy IMO. Depends on how much you'll use them to justify cost, or if you have a tendency to tighten hell out of stuff.
The whole trick is even tightening in stages, moving around the fasteners after starting. Think about how torquing down the head on an engine is done. It's not as hard as it's made out.
Disclaimer: I'm not a gunsmith, never been accused of it.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
If the screws are lock-tited in, they can be removed using a slight amount of heat to break the glue bond.
The most controllable method is to use a soldering iron of about 80 to 100 watts. Get the iron fully hot, and hold it to the screw head for a few seconds. The heat travels down the screw, and breaks the bond of the Locktite. This also works with screws that are bedded in epoxy.
If the screws are lock-tited in, they can be removed using a slight amount of heat to break the glue bond.
The most controllable method is to use a soldering iron of about 80 to 100 watts. Get the iron fully hot, and hold it to the screw head for a few seconds. The heat travels down the screw, and breaks the bond of the Locktite. This also works with screws that are bedded in epoxy.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
I had read about bedding bases but was wondering if it was really necessary. This is a Badger base going on a Remy 5r, so I figure I might as well try to squeeze out every bit of it. Looks like a stupid simple process. I'll follow that murphy precision guide. How necessary is the torque wrench? I dont want to drop big money on a single use tool, although I may be able to borrow one from work. I will locktite those suckers down tho. No reason for me to ever remove it.
I had read about bedding bases but was wondering if it was really necessary. This is a Badger base going on a Remy 5r, so I figure I might as well try to squeeze out every bit of it. Looks like a stupid simple process. I'll follow that murphy precision guide. How necessary is the torque wrench? I dont want to drop big money on a single use tool, although I may be able to borrow one from work. I will locktite those suckers down tho. No reason for me to ever remove it.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
Lapping rings is a touchy topic.....
But it's been my experience, that if you start with a high quality base and rings that are machined straight to begin with, and you then skim bed your base to your action....lapping is not necessary to provide your optic a stress free mount.
I've validated this technique to myself, using Kokopelli bars...both before and after bedding.
Bottom line...the exterior dimensions on most factory (and even some customs) have a tolerance. Ask yourself...What good does it do, to mount a nearly perfectly machined base to an action that has poor exterior dimensional tolerances, and then tear into (i.e. lapping) a set of nearly perfectly machined rings to bring them into alignment, because your base is "bent" to match your receiver?
It just takes a little bit of bravery the first time you do it. Then you won't do it any other way
2 cents..
Lapping rings is a touchy topic.....
But it's been my experience, that if you start with a high quality base and rings that are machined straight to begin with, and you then skim bed your base to your action....lapping is not necessary to provide your optic a stress free mount.
I've validated this technique to myself, using Kokopelli bars...both before and after bedding.
Bottom line...the exterior dimensions on most factory (and even some customs) have a tolerance. Ask yourself...What good does it do, to mount a nearly perfectly machined base to an action that has poor exterior dimensional tolerances, and then tear into (i.e. lapping) a set of nearly perfectly machined rings to bring them into alignment, because your base is "bent" to match your receiver?
It just takes a little bit of bravery the first time you do it. Then you won't do it any other way
2 cents..
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
no tool in this hobby has ever been a single use tool for me so far. look at the one LL just did a review on. its pretty slick for the price. you will use it more than once.
that being said, ive never bedded or torqued to spec yet. dont own a torque wrench, yet
you might not ever notice the difference between a bedded or non bedded or torqued or non torqued base
no tool in this hobby has ever been a single use tool for me so far. look at the one LL just did a review on. its pretty slick for the price. you will use it more than once.
that being said, ive never bedded or torqued to spec yet. dont own a torque wrench, yet
you might not ever notice the difference between a bedded or non bedded or torqued or non torqued base
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
I bedded my NF base to 5R using JB Weld. It's working great and I have also done my work gun this way. Zero problems.
This keeps the moisture out and the base will come off very easily if needed. The used JB weld is easily removed with a dremel in seconds, in the event that you need to swap guns or what have you. And of course then rebed it.
Just mix it up then coat the contact points of the base with just enough to cover where it will make contact with the action filling the potential voids, torque it down, and clean up excess. I then remove each of the screws and thoroughly clean them and the holes one at a time. Then retorque and move on to the next screw. Let it set up for a day and you are ready to go.
I dont know about the Devcon method, but I will say the JB weld can be easily had at any auto parts store. Therefore I didn't have to go looking very much.
I bedded my NF base to 5R using JB Weld. It's working great and I have also done my work gun this way. Zero problems.
This keeps the moisture out and the base will come off very easily if needed. The used JB weld is easily removed with a dremel in seconds, in the event that you need to swap guns or what have you. And of course then rebed it.
Just mix it up then coat the contact points of the base with just enough to cover where it will make contact with the action filling the potential voids, torque it down, and clean up excess. I then remove each of the screws and thoroughly clean them and the holes one at a time. Then retorque and move on to the next screw. Let it set up for a day and you are ready to go.
I dont know about the Devcon method, but I will say the JB weld can be easily had at any auto parts store. Therefore I didn't have to go looking very much.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
the bedding guys say WD40 on a q-tip will really help cleaning up the excess splooge. also if you apply the release (kiwi neutral shoe paste wax polish whatever) to everything, it will help when it comes time to take it off and remove the JD-devcon-whatever. sorry for the technical terms, lol
the bedding guys say WD40 on a q-tip will really help cleaning up the excess splooge. also if you apply the release (kiwi neutral shoe paste wax polish whatever) to everything, it will help when it comes time to take it off and remove the JD-devcon-whatever. sorry for the technical terms, lol
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
I was told JB Weld is useful for this, so thats what I did. I think the article I read was on HateCa's website or Murphy's precision. I got an EGW 20MOA base, and one thing you need to keep in mind, the rifle, and the base are made by diffrent manufacturers, on a mass production scale. So there is little chance its going to have a 100% contact fit. I follow WNRoscoes philosiphy of a stress free job, and if you are going to install anything, no sense in tossing it together and hoping it all works out. A stress free bed of the action, stress free install of the base, quality rings, aligned and lapped if needed, all properly torqued, to me are as important as an action that has been trued, and a match barrel. The rifle as a whole is a complete machine, and like any machine, the better its built, the better it will perform, and have a great level of consistency and reliability. Some get good results tossing it all together, but I dont hear many complain when its all done right.
Oh and I am by no means a gunsmith. If you read the articles here, follow the advice the seasoned smiths and shooters give, there is no reason you cant do any of this yourself.
I was told JB Weld is useful for this, so thats what I did. I think the article I read was on HateCa's website or Murphy's precision. I got an EGW 20MOA base, and one thing you need to keep in mind, the rifle, and the base are made by diffrent manufacturers, on a mass production scale. So there is little chance its going to have a 100% contact fit. I follow WNRoscoes philosiphy of a stress free job, and if you are going to install anything, no sense in tossing it together and hoping it all works out. A stress free bed of the action, stress free install of the base, quality rings, aligned and lapped if needed, all properly torqued, to me are as important as an action that has been trued, and a match barrel. The rifle as a whole is a complete machine, and like any machine, the better its built, the better it will perform, and have a great level of consistency and reliability. Some get good results tossing it all together, but I dont hear many complain when its all done right.
Oh and I am by no means a gunsmith. If you read the articles here, follow the advice the seasoned smiths and shooters give, there is no reason you cant do any of this yourself.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
Red loctite is locking grade. It can be removed easily by heating to 500 degrees.
Blue is medium grade and can be removed easily.
Green is wicking grade for assembled parts.About on par with the blue stuff.
If you are using two piece bases I would trial fit to see if the radius and the bases line up. If the fit is good apply loctite and go shooting.
Red loctite is locking grade. It can be removed easily by heating to 500 degrees.
Blue is medium grade and can be removed easily.
Green is wicking grade for assembled parts.About on par with the blue stuff.
If you are using two piece bases I would trial fit to see if the radius and the bases line up. If the fit is good apply loctite and go shooting.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
Next time the scope comes off my rifle im bedding the base and using blue loc-tite
Next time the scope comes off my rifle im bedding the base and using blue loc-tite
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
Make sure to get into the threaded holes in the receiver with a Q-tip and alcohol to clean out the threads (use a tap if there is gunk already in there that is hard to get out). I'll also spray off everything with Gun Scrubber as the very last step.
Clean off the threads on the screws too. I spray a paper towel and use my fingernail shoved into the screw threads and then back out the screw from the towel with a driver as my fingernail cleans out the gunk.
If you do this then blue Loc-tite is just fine and you can get it off later without jumping through the heating hoops.
I like that idea of using JB Weld as a bedding material. Never tried that. Will do the next one like that. Good idea.
Make sure to get into the threaded holes in the receiver with a Q-tip and alcohol to clean out the threads (use a tap if there is gunk already in there that is hard to get out). I'll also spray off everything with Gun Scrubber as the very last step.
Clean off the threads on the screws too. I spray a paper towel and use my fingernail shoved into the screw threads and then back out the screw from the towel with a driver as my fingernail cleans out the gunk.
If you do this then blue Loc-tite is just fine and you can get it off later without jumping through the heating hoops.
I like that idea of using JB Weld as a bedding material. Never tried that. Will do the next one like that. Good idea.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
Some of you are saying wax/mold release agent on top of the receiver, so the JB Weld or Devcon is removable.
However more seem to be saying glue the base to the receiver for a better bond. Any clarification on this?
Some of you are saying wax/mold release agent on top of the receiver, so the JB Weld or Devcon is removable.
However more seem to be saying glue the base to the receiver for a better bond. Any clarification on this?
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: c1steve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some of you are saying wax/mold release agent on top of the receiver, so the JB Weld or Devcon is removable.
However more seem to be saying glue the base to the receiver for a better bond. Any clarification on this? </div></div>
As the OP, I was wondering about this as well.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: c1steve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some of you are saying wax/mold release agent on top of the receiver, so the JB Weld or Devcon is removable.
However more seem to be saying glue the base to the receiver for a better bond. Any clarification on this? </div></div>
As the OP, I was wondering about this as well.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
I don't think anyone was saying glue the base to the receiver. You want to be able to release the mount from the receiver, just not the bedding from the mount. All ways use a release agent, especially in the screws holes.
I don't think anyone was saying glue the base to the receiver. You want to be able to release the mount from the receiver, just not the bedding from the mount. All ways use a release agent, especially in the screws holes.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clicky762</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: c1steve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some of you are saying wax/mold release agent on top of the receiver, so the JB Weld or Devcon is removable.
However more seem to be saying glue the base to the receiver for a better bond. Any clarification on this? </div></div>
As the OP, I was wondering about this as well.</div></div>
Same argument here as is applied to BR rifles that are "glued" to the stock. I personally prefer to be able to remove the base, as I'm sure most do. Might help with resale of the rifle as well, if the base can be removed.
5 different rifles, using EGW, Near, Seekins, and Farrel products have worked well using a skim bed "removable" type bedding. Painters tape on every thing you want protected. Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent on the action, hardware mounting holes and hardware. Q-tip and WD40 cleans up Devcon nicely. Work carefully, and throughly with a good light source, don't rush things. 1-2 hour cure, and hobby knife to trim/final clean before curing.
The post regarding not seeing/or seeing a difference, I agree with. Some combinations just work out for some.
I chased my tail on one rifle and it was a base alignment/ring issue. Bedded it and problem was solved. Now just do it on all my rifles, and ask for it in part of the build if the smith will accommodate. No expert here, just sharing an experience(s) of mine to help others. Good luck!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clicky762</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: c1steve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some of you are saying wax/mold release agent on top of the receiver, so the JB Weld or Devcon is removable.
However more seem to be saying glue the base to the receiver for a better bond. Any clarification on this? </div></div>
As the OP, I was wondering about this as well.</div></div>
Same argument here as is applied to BR rifles that are "glued" to the stock. I personally prefer to be able to remove the base, as I'm sure most do. Might help with resale of the rifle as well, if the base can be removed.
5 different rifles, using EGW, Near, Seekins, and Farrel products have worked well using a skim bed "removable" type bedding. Painters tape on every thing you want protected. Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent on the action, hardware mounting holes and hardware. Q-tip and WD40 cleans up Devcon nicely. Work carefully, and throughly with a good light source, don't rush things. 1-2 hour cure, and hobby knife to trim/final clean before curing.
The post regarding not seeing/or seeing a difference, I agree with. Some combinations just work out for some.
I chased my tail on one rifle and it was a base alignment/ring issue. Bedded it and problem was solved. Now just do it on all my rifles, and ask for it in part of the build if the smith will accommodate. No expert here, just sharing an experience(s) of mine to help others. Good luck!
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
I can definitely see the benefits of permanently epoxying the base to the receiver. It would help a lot with bending moment during recoil. Resale value isn't a concern with me. Baring some sort of financial disaster, I'd never sell any firearm. Plus this is a Badger mount, so it's not like I'd have a shitty base permanently attached. However, using a release agent would be erring on the side of caution.
I can definitely see the benefits of permanently epoxying the base to the receiver. It would help a lot with bending moment during recoil. Resale value isn't a concern with me. Baring some sort of financial disaster, I'd never sell any firearm. Plus this is a Badger mount, so it's not like I'd have a shitty base permanently attached. However, using a release agent would be erring on the side of caution.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
I thought I would just add a comment for people who are a little leary about using some of the Loctite products, especially one of the "permanent" red ones. Most red Loctite releases at about 400 degrees fahrenheit. The absolutely best way to do this is with a heat gun. I have used flame sources in the past but a heat gun is really the safe way to go. Especially if it has a temperature setting feature. You might be surprised just how easy an cleanly red Loctite releases when using a heat gun set at 400.
Now I'm not saying use red locktite on scope mounting I'm just saying it's not the end of the world if something is Loctited together with the red stuff.
I thought I would just add a comment for people who are a little leary about using some of the Loctite products, especially one of the "permanent" red ones. Most red Loctite releases at about 400 degrees fahrenheit. The absolutely best way to do this is with a heat gun. I have used flame sources in the past but a heat gun is really the safe way to go. Especially if it has a temperature setting feature. You might be surprised just how easy an cleanly red Loctite releases when using a heat gun set at 400.
Now I'm not saying use red locktite on scope mounting I'm just saying it's not the end of the world if something is Loctited together with the red stuff.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
you can always coat everything wit the release agent, the base, the screws and the receiver. once the epoxy forms and sets up and the base is torqued by the screws, its not going anywhere and the release wont do anything but allow easy clean up if ever needed. and after reading, some used the loctite to bed it sounds like? good use of the product. others are using it on the threads as intended. sounds like some confusion in there. but i would think with release and proper tooks, it should be simple to get this done. im gonna try it soon.
you can always coat everything wit the release agent, the base, the screws and the receiver. once the epoxy forms and sets up and the base is torqued by the screws, its not going anywhere and the release wont do anything but allow easy clean up if ever needed. and after reading, some used the loctite to bed it sounds like? good use of the product. others are using it on the threads as intended. sounds like some confusion in there. but i would think with release and proper tooks, it should be simple to get this done. im gonna try it soon.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
Helpful info on bedding... quick clarifying question - apply the release agent to the screws, then apply the locktite?
Sorry if this is obvious but new to all this and want to make sure I understand correctly. I bought what I think is a good base and rings (Ken Farrell) based on everything I've read but it seems that bedding is still recommended...
Helpful info on bedding... quick clarifying question - apply the release agent to the screws, then apply the locktite?
Sorry if this is obvious but new to all this and want to make sure I understand correctly. I bought what I think is a good base and rings (Ken Farrell) based on everything I've read but it seems that bedding is still recommended...
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
Taken directly from Murphy's Precision website:
"In an ideal world, the bottom of your new Murphy Precision Scope Base, would fit the top of your rifle action perfectly, with no gaps, or misalignment. Unfortunately in the real world, this level of fit isn't likely. Most modern rifle actions are machined to fairly close tolerances, but before the common use of CNC machining equipment, tolerances were much looser. In addition to any errors in the orginal machining, most rifle actions are polished afterward to remove any tooling marks. While this leaves a pleasing finish, most freehand grinding and buffing can lead to errors of several thousandths of an inch in critical areas. Without bedding, the only solution is to tighten the scope base screws enough to warp the scope base and rifle action sufficiently to make close contact. This warpage can lead to a host of accuracy robbing problems in both your rifle action, and scope.
When properly bedded, high strength epoxy resin fills any small gaps that may exist between rifle action and scope base, allowing full contact with both members in a relaxed state. As an additional benefit, the epoxy resin bonds the scope base the the rifle action, eliminating any recoil stress on the mounting screws."
Also materials needed:
"
•Brownells Acraglas, JB Weld, or Devcon Metal Filled epoxy compound
•Release Compound (Floor wax is acceptable)
•Paper Towels / Rags
•Paper Plate / Cardboard / other mixing surface.
•Acetone for cleanup"
Here is the link: Link
This is how I did it. Figure if the folk who make the base feel this way it should apply to any manufacturer.
Taken directly from Murphy's Precision website:
"In an ideal world, the bottom of your new Murphy Precision Scope Base, would fit the top of your rifle action perfectly, with no gaps, or misalignment. Unfortunately in the real world, this level of fit isn't likely. Most modern rifle actions are machined to fairly close tolerances, but before the common use of CNC machining equipment, tolerances were much looser. In addition to any errors in the orginal machining, most rifle actions are polished afterward to remove any tooling marks. While this leaves a pleasing finish, most freehand grinding and buffing can lead to errors of several thousandths of an inch in critical areas. Without bedding, the only solution is to tighten the scope base screws enough to warp the scope base and rifle action sufficiently to make close contact. This warpage can lead to a host of accuracy robbing problems in both your rifle action, and scope.
When properly bedded, high strength epoxy resin fills any small gaps that may exist between rifle action and scope base, allowing full contact with both members in a relaxed state. As an additional benefit, the epoxy resin bonds the scope base the the rifle action, eliminating any recoil stress on the mounting screws."
Also materials needed:
"
•Brownells Acraglas, JB Weld, or Devcon Metal Filled epoxy compound
•Release Compound (Floor wax is acceptable)
•Paper Towels / Rags
•Paper Plate / Cardboard / other mixing surface.
•Acetone for cleanup"
Here is the link: Link
This is how I did it. Figure if the folk who make the base feel this way it should apply to any manufacturer.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
for me, ill apply the wax to the screws and the holes in the receiver, the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver so when i fit the base initially and the stuff spreads as i press it on and tighten the screws, i am thinking the epoxy will get in the holes, on the threads and everywhere. this may not be the case, but i will act like it will be. i will let the epoxy stiffen a little so its not gonna run as much. but then after its stiff, before the full cure, i want to pull the screws, clean the holes, the screws, chase the holes in the receiver with a tap and then reassemble and tighten or the full cure. then pull the screws just to make sure i can, and retighten. but for me having the screws and holes waxed, will keep it from getting epoxied in case i was to miss a bit in the threads.
i kinda wish that in the case of savage and savage bases, both my ferrel and my EGW were made to overhang my barrel nut. i wish they were shorter, just a bit. see, after i bed this base, im gonna install my barrel and i hope to be done. other guys that switch barrels will have to take off the base for a barrel change. if it was a 1/2" or so shorter, a guy coulkd switch barrels and leave the base bedded. that would be nice. one less step. think about that if you want to switch barrels alot
for me, ill apply the wax to the screws and the holes in the receiver, the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver so when i fit the base initially and the stuff spreads as i press it on and tighten the screws, i am thinking the epoxy will get in the holes, on the threads and everywhere. this may not be the case, but i will act like it will be. i will let the epoxy stiffen a little so its not gonna run as much. but then after its stiff, before the full cure, i want to pull the screws, clean the holes, the screws, chase the holes in the receiver with a tap and then reassemble and tighten or the full cure. then pull the screws just to make sure i can, and retighten. but for me having the screws and holes waxed, will keep it from getting epoxied in case i was to miss a bit in the threads.
i kinda wish that in the case of savage and savage bases, both my ferrel and my EGW were made to overhang my barrel nut. i wish they were shorter, just a bit. see, after i bed this base, im gonna install my barrel and i hope to be done. other guys that switch barrels will have to take off the base for a barrel change. if it was a 1/2" or so shorter, a guy coulkd switch barrels and leave the base bedded. that would be nice. one less step. think about that if you want to switch barrels alot
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
I also don't glue the base to the receiver. I use the kiwi polish and devcon. It works great, relieves stress on the base, and it still bonds the base to the receiver. Even with a release agent you will still need a few swings of a rubber mallet to get it to release.
I also don't glue the base to the receiver. I use the kiwi polish and devcon. It works great, relieves stress on the base, and it still bonds the base to the receiver. Even with a release agent you will still need a few swings of a rubber mallet to get it to release.
Re: How to mount a base or professional install?
i snagged some jb weld and while i was looking thru the selection i found a one part Devcon metal in a tube. it has a 15 minute work time, 1 hour handling and 125 psi strength. its waterproof. im going to play with that and see what its like. may be a good bedding compound for the base. i got JB too
i snagged some jb weld and while i was looking thru the selection i found a one part Devcon metal in a tube. it has a 15 minute work time, 1 hour handling and 125 psi strength. its waterproof. im going to play with that and see what its like. may be a good bedding compound for the base. i got JB too
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