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Suppressors How to Suppress AR 5.56 the Most

joe777

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 7, 2023
127
83
Minnesota
Hello everyone,

I've been reading dozens of threads and I'm having a hard time coming to a solid conclusion. It seems there are two camps:

1. Flow through, proper 5.56 caliber suppressor is the best because it suppresses at the shooters ear but also reduces port pop
2. Max volume is key, a large 30cal plus suppressor can perform great on an AR in 5.56 because volume is key and the larger bore diameter reduces port pop


What I'm trying to do is suppress my varmint gun the absolute most with 40-62 grain full power ammo. The plan is to dedicate a suppressor to either a 16" 1:9 twist or possibly even a 20" 1:8 twist barrel but I'm flexible. This isn't a range gun at all and will be shot maybe 200 times a year realistically. Here's my criteria:

Don't care about weight and don't care about size (for the sake of the argument at least)
Don't care about full auto rated, gun wont be shot that much
Don't really care about blow back gas (can i tune the gas down? not experienced in this area)
100% willing to tune the gun to the suppressor. Have experience assembling ARs, can easily change gas block, buffer, BCG, barrel, etc.
Would prefer a direct thread mainly for simplicity's sake and because i wont be swapping the suppressor at all.

If anyone could share their experience and recommendations for combinations of suppressor/gas tuning equipment to suppress an AR the most, I would greatly appreciate it. Having trouble filtering through the internet threads. Yes I'm pretty much willing to throw a 9+ inch can on it and call it a day haha.

Thank you.
 
Shouldn't take too long, open the web file or download it and open it in Excel/Libre and sort it ascending by NSR then look for similars to your desired platform/load.

It's good data but it doesn't have every suppressor in the industry because they depend on people showing up to the suppressor shoots with supperssors to test. The good part about this is everything is tested on as equal footing as possible and there are no "sponsors" or invested parties that hold sway over any of the results.
 
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Hello everyone,

I've been reading dozens of threads and I'm having a hard time coming to a solid conclusion. It seems there are two camps:

1. Flow through, proper 5.56 caliber suppressor is the best because it suppresses at the shooters ear but also reduces port pop
2. Max volume is key, a large 30cal plus suppressor can perform great on an AR in 5.56 because volume is key and the larger bore diameter reduces port pop
Two camps?! Not hardly. For maximum suppression neither one of those are a good option if that's your goal.

The flow through cans are actually very attractive, but not because they suppress better. If you are shooting indoors or on a very low wind day you can easily choke yourself out with gas in the face, especially on long strings of fire.

That said a few suppressor companies are very much 'tuning their cans' for semi auto platforms. What that means is on a bolt action, pretty much if they can constrict everything it will work better (or so the theory goes), but then you put that on a semi auto and you get tons of gas coming back at the shooter. Hence they engineer even traditionally baffled cans so that there is a certain percentage more of 'flow through' the suppressor under a firing sequence. It will drastically reduce gas to the face on an AR and still will offer great sound reduction, even much better than the Huxworks or whatnot.

A dedicated 5.56 can will almost universally outperform a 30 cal can when shooting 5.56. End of story. There might be some odd examples that say otherwise, but it's not common when going apples to apples. IE if you put on a tiny 5.56 K can up against a full size 30 cal can it will most likely not perform as good sound wise.

You say weight doesn't matter, but actually it does. You just don't know it does yet.

For your purposes you probably need to narrow it down to cans that have minimal POI shift. Again, this has nothing to do with absolute sound reduction.

Also, this is my opinion, a taper mount will be better than straight direct thread for many applications. If you are say deer hunting maybe not, but direct thread cans will sometimes walk off the threads and loosen up more. With a taper mount you have the same benefits of the exact same lock up position as a direct thread, but you also have more surface area mating up creating a much better friction fit.

In short look for a lighter (ish) dedicated 5.56 can with some measure of flow through built into it, that uses a taper mount style (or some other form of positive lock up) muzzle devices. If you are out 20-30 rounds in you don't want to be missing your target or having to reach up and tighten a hot suppressor because the can vibrated loose a little bit.

Just my .02 cents.
 
Maximum suppression is my goal - what option is best?

subsonic or not? assume not.

In the data provided based on the cans tested, Liberty and Griffin pretty much dominate in suppression performance.

NOT ALL CANS are in the data so it's not possible to say which suppressor on the market provides the best suppression.

Manufacturer data and test methods vary even when the manufacturers are reputable so it's tough to identify the best performer based on manufacturer data since, among sooooo many things, ammo matters as much as environment.

The good news is none of them are "quiet" but a lot of them are "less loud".
 
@alamo5000 Maximum suppression is my goal - what option is best?

First things first... there is no such thing as 'maximum suppression' especially on a 5.56. No matter what can you use you will still be wearing ear pro. The idea that it will become John Wick quiet is movie fantasy. Yes you can probably get away with a couple of shots without ear pro, but anything more than that you will need it.

Also the other criteria in my view are more important, IE mounting system is my personal #1, and after that it would probably be a tie between weight and sound suppression. That's not even getting into how the can is built etc.

What you need to do is figure out what level is acceptable. That said it's not smart at all to go around shopping via the published DB numbers. There are so many factors in that mix that make it largely unreliable, especially when comparing one manufacturers numbers to another manufacturers numbers. Suppression IS important, it's just not THE MOST important.

In other words if I have a 2.2 pound 18" long suppressor that I spent $1200 bucks and a year on, only to go shoot next to someone that has an 11oz can that is 6" long and suppresses just as good, then what?

I am trying to avoid going down the brand loyalty rabbit hole. You will wind up with 20 people recommending this brand or that. I could do the same, but with the caveat that you will be better off learning the 'WHY' and making up your own mind.

Personally I use Griffin. They have several options that will more than meet your needs. Look in the Recce, Explorr and possibly the Dual Lok lines for something that catches your eye. Plus they offer upgrades for older cans. For example I bought some cans several years ago and in between then and now a ton of new technology emerged in the way of baffle design. I sent a couple of cans (even welded ones) in and two weeks later I got the latest and greatest that was being offered without buying a brand new can.

As I was saying though, I reluctantly 'name drop' but not because I am hesitant about their stuff or anything else. I am hesitant because 20 people will be here shortly saying 'buy X' or 'Y is the best'...but you still won't know WHY until you do the work or try it yourself.

Long story short, you might as well ask what brand of ice cream is 'the best'. You can have 20 people eloquently describing the texture and flavor, but until you get a spoon for yourself all the info in the world will not come together and make sense.
 
I am trying to avoid going down the brand loyalty rabbit hole. You will wind up with 20 people recommending this brand or that. I could do the same, but with the caveat that you will be better off learning the 'WHY' and making up your own mind.

1000%

The two I referenced from the data were purely on numbers alone ... from that data set.

Change calibers, change hosts, change ammo and a different brand/model will end up on "top".
 
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Definitely not subsonic. The most common scenario I anticipate is taking two or three 300 yard shots at a coyote over a weekend of use. Not much walking and not much chance of me wanting to swap the suppressor, that's why im not concerned about weight and quick mounts.

I'll look into a few of the brands that seem to have the best numbers, i guess. I'll be making the purchase next week and just want to make sure I'm making a good decision which will allow me to have the most suppression, or the most "less loud."

I'm wondering if the tuning of the gun has a lot to do with reducing port noise. Looks like ill have anywhere from 3-13 months to research.
 
Tuning as in turning the knob on an AGB does help a little, it's also ammo dependent.

If you mean gas system and rifle length then, in general, you should see better results from something with a 18"-20" barrel and a rifle length system ... but ... it varies.

Side stepping the holy war that is DI/piston
 
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Right. Any tuning/combo would be on the table in order to get the most suppression. If piston is needed I can convert/build an upper.
 
A lot of performance on an AR is based on port noise and that has a lot of variables. A can that not only performs well, but has minimal back pressure. Some cans sound great on a bolt gun and over gas a semi to the point the port is loud.

I have had best luck with longest gas system you can, longest barrel, long buffer system, and adjustable gas block. I can put the same suppressor on multiple rifles and these things matter.
 
@alamo5000 Maximum suppression is my goal - what option is best?
If max muzzle suppression is your goal, this is your can. It will still have some backpressure, but it won't be overly gassy, and will be one of the best/quietest options on a 5.56 with a longer barrel. I have one, and have tested it on my 14.5" and 16" 5.56 AR's and 20" 6.5 Grendel. It's a great suppressor on an AR. Lightweight, too. And it will not negatively impact your accuracy, as they are precision rifle cans.

 
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If max muzzle suppression is your goal, this is your can. It will still have some backpressure, but it won't be overly gassy, and will be one of the best/quietest options on a 5.56 with a longer barrel. I have one, and have tested it on my 14.5" and 16" 5.56 AR's and 20" 6.5 Grendel. It's a great suppressor on an AR. Lightweight, too. And it will not negatively impact your accuracy, as they are precision rifle cans.

What about the -L version?
 
Don't get obsessed with test readings. The human ear cannot distinguish moderate differences so if it is 132 or 135 you probably can not tell the difference and are likely to get it wrong. With different suppressors the tone is more noticable than a couple db, I like a deep tone, it is more pleasant and less likely to draw attention than a sharper crack.
 
I’ve used a variety of suppressors on ARs over the years. The quietest that I’ve used has been the AEM-5 / Ops Inc. by Allen Engineering (this is the can used on the MK12). I don’t have any scientific data, but it’s noticeably quieter in my opinion.
 
I’ve used a variety of suppressors on ARs over the years. The quietest that I’ve used has been the AEM-5 / Ops Inc. by Allen Engineering (this is the can used on the MK12). I don’t have any scientific data, but it’s noticeably quieter in my opinion.
I've seen that model come up a few times. Has me looking at the OCM5 that they say is an improved version (?)
 
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OK thanks. I could probably drill and tap one of my current blocks.
Nope, just buy one. Seekins makes a decent set screw adjustable block.
No reason to cut corners on this when you're spending all that money for a suppressor, and unless you have a mill and the skill to use it, you'd have a hard time doing this right. Even then, very few gas blocks have enough material to add an adjustment screw and a locking screw in the right places unless they were made for it. BTW, if you didn't know - Zak who gave you advice to get a set screw block works for Thunderbeast suppressors and knows his stuff. Great cans btw and very quiet.

Gas tuning is huge with suppressed ARs; it really makes a lot of difference both in how the gun runs and how it sounds. And you will need adjustment of some sort; if the gun runs correctly now without a suppressor, it's going to be overgassed once you add one. But since you're talking about a dedicated suppressed gun that won't be swapped back and forth, it makes things easy for you; you don't need flow through designs or low back pressure cans, you can just install your can, tune the gas for minimum function plus a little for reliability, and use it. No need to worry about mounts or POI shift either, as you already figured out.

Weight does matter a bit though. Not because of POI difference, but because it's a big weight you're adding to the end of a long stick. It affects how the rifle carries and handles; a 10-15 oz can isn't bad, just be cautious of some out there that are a bunch heavier than that. (On the extreme end, I once got to try a commercial 5.56 can that weighed 38 oz! They were pretty proud of how it worked on the new Tavor without messing up cycling, but it sounded terrible and felt like a benchrest rifle, only more awkward. Don't recall the company but would be surprised if they're still in business.)

BTW you can expect that 20" AR to be quieter than the 16", if they were both tuned equally and an apples-to-apples comparison. Short barrels are nice for fast handling and maneuvering, but long barrels are usually quieter.
 
It's not on that table, but I'm a fan of the Griffin explorr line for 556. The taper mount version comes in at 9oz, is pretty low on back pressure, has low flash signature, and is extremely good sound suppression wise. I use the hub version with xeno and even then I'm coming in around 10.5oz with a 6", non-titanium can
 
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ARs are just hard to make really quiet, full stop. It’s not possible to delay unlocking enough that some gas doesn’t go out the ejection port, so the choice of can is mostly on the margins. I can put my Sandman L on my AR (which is comfortable to shoot with no ears on a bolt gun), and even with and adjustable gas block and middie gas on a 16”, it stings a little.

Heck even my 300BLK DDM4 with subs was only so quiet. I agree with the above advice from others - 556 cans are better than 30 cal, longer gas system is better, get an AGB and adjust so that the gun won’t run unsuppressed and you’re only a click or two off not cycling suppressed.

Do you hand load? Especially on those lighter bullets, faster powders help.
 
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Thanks for the advice everyone. Besides size and weight, is there any reason to go with a 6.5-7" can versus a 8.5-9"?

I do not handload unfortunately.
 
The ar-15 is not a great platform for getting maximum suppression.

IMO, maximum suppression should be near the bottom of your objectives when suppressing an ar-15. The quietest you can probably get an ar-15 is the high 130's dB range.

Back pressure is a huge consideration with ar-15's, I would trade a couple of dB's any day for an ar-15 that shoots less gas in my face.

Another thing to think of is that unlike a bolt gun, an ar-15 will have two main sources of loud noise from the combustion of firing: the middle and the ejection port. A seemingly impressive dB reading at the muzzle in an ar-15 usually corresponds with a pretty loud (140+ dB) ejection port.

I would focus on a low back pressure suppressor (or even flow through if it's for dedicated ar-15 use) and tuning the gas system. Lots of ways to tune a gas system, the BRT EZTune system looks like one great way to do it.
 
What about the -L version?
If you are strictly going to use it on a bolt-action, and never put it on an AR, then yes, the Hydrogen-L 6.5mm would be the absolute top dog. But the reason I mostly recommend the S version, is because it still does ok on an AR without being too restrictive and gassy. But bolt-action only, the L would be the quietest.
 
I've seen that model come up a few times. Has me looking at the OCM5 that they say is an improved version (?)
It's lighter and quieter than the original AEM-5. BUT, you will need to run an OTB mount, and that means you have to make sure your barrel's diameter will fit inside the can.
 
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It's lighter and quieter than the original AEM-5. BUT, you will need to run an OTB mount, and that means you have to make sure your barrel's diameter will fit inside the can.
This seems like a decent way to go. Still get a big can but at only half the length right
 
ARs are just hard to make really quiet, full stop. It’s not possible to delay unlocking enough that some gas doesn’t go out the ejection port, so the choice of can is mostly on the margins. I can put my Sandman L on my AR (which is comfortable to shoot with no ears on a bolt gun), and even with and adjustable gas block and middie gas on a 16”, it stings a little.

Heck even my 300BLK DDM4 with subs was only so quiet. I agree with the above advice from others - 556 cans are better than 30 cal, longer gas system is better, get an AGB and adjust so that the gun won’t run unsuppressed and you’re only a click or two off not cycling suppressed.

Do you hand load? Especially on those lighter bullets, faster powders help.
Yeah, but lets be realistic... The Sandman series are NOT very quiet. They are great cans, and extremely solid, and they are the top dog for their designed purpose, which is belt-fed duty-rated hardcore use machine-gun suppressors... But they are not engineered for supreme DB drops. They are heavy and bulky and there is much better options out there these days for crossover & bolt-action cans that can double-duty on SBR 5.56 and even 6mm cartridges, like the OCL Polonium series (it has a 6mm bore for use on 6mm ARC & 5.56).

The Sandman series was made for low BP and knocking down flash and noise on a belt-fed or M4/M16. And they do that job extremely well. But my 2 Sandman-S cans are not superbly quiet even on my bolt-action .300 BLK with subs. I mean, it's a 1.55" diameter can that is double-walled and only has 5 baffles in it, it's not designed to have a ton of internal volume and gas disruption, it's made to handle a nuclear apocalypse. There is still a very loud FRP with the SM-S. Honestly a Nomad-30 (stainless version) wouldn't be quite as hardcore, but honestly, not many folks are shooting sub-10" barreled 5.56 and/or machine guns, so the Nomad-30 or Hydrogen-S 7.62 would be ideally fine as long as someone didn't get them over 800ºF. My OCL Hydrogen-S 7.62 is lightyears ahead of it in both sound and DB drops, with zero FRP on .300 BLK with subs.
 
This seems like a decent way to go. Still get a big can but at only half the length right
Yes and no... It looks like a big can, but it's only got like 5 or 6 baffles in it to trap the gasses. The part that hangs over the barrel is just a reflex chamber for excess gasses to escape to that are being pushed into the blast chamber (area before the first baffle) of the suppressor. If you're not familiar with how traditional vs. reflex suppressors work, do some googling. I was told by Andrew King (the owner of Otter Creek Labs, and designer of the OCL-5) that his Polonium can is quieter than his OCL-5, which is quieter and lighter than the original AEM-5 cans. He has a couple of AEM's, but wanted them lighter, and to see if he could make them quieter than they already were, and that's what led to him designing his can. He implemented a lot of that knowledge to design into his Polonium series of suppressors, and ended up making the full-size Polonium 5.56 can even quieter than the OCL-5, and it doesn't require anything to be put over the barrel. That's why I recommend it so much. Not only is affordable, but it's also full 17-4ph stainless steel, hardcore duty-rated, quiet, relatively light, and only $550 MSRP. It's also the #1 quietest can (muzzle DB) on the PEW Science test charts.


If you want to see a great video showing all aspect and explaining more about it, watch this video from Tim over at Alabama Arsenal. He even shoots it on a 16" 5.56 bolt-action at 5:58 into the video, so you can hear just how effective it is.

 
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Back pressure is a huge consideration with ar-15's, I would trade a couple of dB's any day for an ar-15 that shoots less gas in my face.

Another thing to think of is that unlike a bolt gun, an ar-15 will have two main sources of loud noise from the combustion of firing: the middle and the ejection port. A seemingly impressive dB reading at the muzzle in an ar-15 usually corresponds with a pretty loud (140+ dB) ejection port.

I would focus on a low back pressure suppressor (or even flow through if it's for dedicated ar-15 use) and tuning the gas system. Lots of ways to tune a gas system, the BRT EZTune system looks like one great way to do it.

I don't really agree with a bunch of this, for the specific use case the OP described. It's generally true for ARs intended to be used both with and without a suppressor, and especially if they're to be used with a variety of different ammo, but that's not what the OP is asking about. IF you tune the rifle specifically to work with that suppressor and ammo, not some compromise tune with and without a can, then the back pressure thing is much less of an issue. And he's already agreed that he needs to tune the gas system, so that's a given.

I don't see much need for any specialty tuning gimmicks in this application either - it's a set and forget system. A basic set screw gas block is about as straightforward and simple as it gets there, accomplishing the gas restriction the same way as if the gas port were drilled to the ideal size.

Presumably the OP already realizes at this point that his setup will be louder than the same cartridge in a suppressed bolt action. If not OP, better take note to that detail because it is significant - you'll never have that AR suppressed as quiet as a bolt gun or other locked breech action. But presuming you accept that, then a well set up AR15 is about as good as you can do for a semi-auto 5.56 suppressor host IMO and you're on the right track.
 
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This AGB can be adjusted by the user to match the ammo and conditions. There are others than can be adjusted in the field with fingers, not tools.

For me, set and forget works fine. I adjust a moderately dirty gun with suppressor off to just barely lock bolt on last round.
 

This AGB can be adjusted by the user to match the ammo and conditions. There are others than can be adjusted in the field with fingers, not tools.

For me, set and forget works fine. I adjust a moderately dirty gun with suppressor off to just barely lock bolt on last round.

That one is the wrong choice for a rifle that will be a dedicated suppressed setup. No reason to be able to adjust this setup on the fly.

The simple set screw type is cheaper and better (I.e. it’ll always stay where it’s set) for this application.

 
Still having a heck of a time going through data, reviews and forum posts.

Couple options I'm considering:

AEM5 - have yet to find a bad review, most people say it has a great/best sound signature

Hux HX-QD - seems to have a good (best?) balance of muzzle and ear sound reduction numbers, could be critical for port pop noise reduction

Maxim DSX - latest and greatest technology? Coming in first for numbers testing?

Various 8-9" cans like the Thunderbeasts, Sandman-L, etc - bigger is better?? Could require significant back pressure tuning

So many other brands and models but it seems like they generally fall into a similar category as the above examples.
 
That one is the wrong choice for a rifle that will be a dedicated suppressed setup. No reason to be able to adjust this setup on the fly.

The simple set screw type is cheaper and better (I.e. it’ll always stay where it’s set) for this application.

I don't use the on the fly adjustable, but if you want maximum suppression, even if dedicated suppressor, there could be reasons for on the fly adjustable.
First is tuning to different loads.
Second is being able to open up the port a little on a dirty gun to restore reliability.
Third is being able to have a functional firearm if suppressor has to be removed and you tune below suppressor off reliable.
And Fourth is to under gas a semi turning it into a shoot and rack for as close to bolt action quiet as you can get.

In the end I am happy with tuning to barely lock bolt back suppressor off, but some may like more versatility.
 
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As far as what size and model, talk to people with experience. Making assumptions about performance based on length or volume is futile. Some baffle designs that are not quiet are built to take abuse and heat, some materials handle high rates of fire or pressure.
Talk to shops that have sold and shot hundreds of suppressors over the years and say exactly what is important to you in order of importance. Talk to the companies that make them, but expect brand bias. And mostly ignore suppressor owners because they usually lack the breadth of knowledge to give good advice and inflate the value of their own purchases.
 
I'll be talking to manufacturers and shops this week.

Anyone here compared a Hux to an Aem5 in person?

Also is something like the Polonium the obvious answer here since it is so good at suppressing at the muzzle? Will tuning down the gas reduce the at-ear sound level?
 
Because suppressor shoppers get obsessed with db, some makers make cans designed to test well, not sound great. There is no test for sounds pleasant to human ear. Tone matters, try to hear one in person next to other models. Talk to people who have shot many at the range. There is not a perfect suppressor, the next ten on your list sounds about the same. BUT, if you have a problem the warranty and customer service may be totally different.
 
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I don't use the on the fly adjustable, but if you want maximum suppression, even if dedicated suppressor, there could be reasons for on the fly adjustable.
First is tuning to different loads.
Second is being able to open up the port a little on a dirty gun to restore reliability.
Third is being able to have a functional firearm if suppressor has to be removed and you tune below suppressor off reliable.
And Fourth is to under gas a semi turning it into a shoot and rack for as close to bolt action quiet as you can get.

In the end I am happy with tuning to barely lock bolt back suppressor off, but some may like more versatility.

I have the hand adjustable block you mentioned on a couple of rifles - the adjustments are coarser than what you're thinking. It's a good choice for a rifle that's fired with and without a can, but it only takes 2-3 clicks to go from suppressed to open muzzle; there's not a lot of fine tuning there "on the fly".

You can accomplish the things you've listed more precisely on a dedicated suppressor host by using the more basic set screw block (of which I have a bunch of examples on most of my ARs) and an allen wrench stored in the grip for emergency tuning. (Which I've honestly never ended up using.) That's why I said it's the better choice for the OP, speaking from experience, not theory.
 
I own a SP-10 with the low profile AGB and was going to switch to the lever style because I get it dirty enough to mess with reliability. I shot a couple other SP-10s with the lever, but decided to keep the low profile as I don't want to run a shorter handguard, but they work. I have owned switchblock, have a shooting buddy with a riflespeed I installed for him and shot other setups over the years. As I have stated in every post I am happy with the set and forget style. But, the Seekins lever type does work, I have played with them in 308 and 6.5C.

I will mention that I have put both an AGB and Bootleg gas adjustment bolt carrier on the same riffle so that I could fine tune the suppressed shooting and be able to go unsuppressed if I want.

I am speaking from experience, just saying there are valid reasons and other options so OP can decide.
 
Here what I think my plan is:

Order a Hux Flow 556k since my local store has one (based off the high shooter's ear suppression numbers)

Also attempt to find an AEM5 or possibly Otter's version (based on the many comments of it being the quietest AR silencer)

In the meantime I found out that my buddy has a Banish 30 Gold that he said we could try out on my AR in the meantime.
 
Here what I think my plan is:

Order a Hux Flow 556k since my local store has one (based off the high shooter's ear suppression numbers).
Flow is the way to go.

Get some etymotic er20s or similar light ear pro for situations where planning to take a pop-shot or two. Standard muffs for range use.

Never having to screw with anything is such a huge win, you'll love that can.
 
I'll be talking to manufacturers and shops this week.

Anyone here compared a Hux to an Aem5 in person?

Also is something like the Polonium the obvious answer here since it is so good at suppressing at the muzzle? Will tuning down the gas reduce the at-ear sound level?
The Polonium has a deep and chunky sound (solid 17-4ph stainless can). Yes, tuning down the gas will help reduce port pop (DB's at the ear).

Maybe this video will help you understand. Here it is on my 14.5" 5.56 with a STANDARD (non-adjustable) gas block, carbine gas system, and H2 buffer, and it's ejecting brass perfectly at 3 o'clock without any mods or adjustments. This rifle's gas port was set perfectly. It runs the exact same both suppressed and unsuppressed. Ironically, one of the least-tunable (AR) rifles I own, is the most equally-tuned (AR) rifle I own. 😂 I am not using any professional equipment and I am not a professional. I'm just a dude trying to make accurate sound production videos to help others hear things to decide if it's something they are interested in, or not.

 
Here what I think my plan is:

Order a Hux Flow 556k since my local store has one (based off the high shooter's ear suppression numbers)

Also attempt to find an AEM5 or possibly Otter's version (based on the many comments of it being the quietest AR silencer)

In the meantime I found out that my buddy has a Banish 30 Gold that he said we could try out on my AR in the meantime.

Seems like you might still be missing some of the facts about tuning the rifle and the effect that has. Most suppression numbers, including at shooters ear, are based on installing a suppressor on a rifle without adjusting tuning and then recording numbers. Port pop of an AR tuned for that specific suppressor, as you’ve said you intend to do, can be significantly lower.

So be careful about basing your choices on published numbers, when your application is a bit different than what was recorded.

IMO you do not need a “flow through” design on a dedicated suppressor host that is tuned for that suppressor, and you would be giving up some suppression. You asked about maximum suppression and IMO that’s not the way to get there for your application.

It doesn’t help that half the people giving you advice here are commenting based on setups that are used both with and without the suppressor. If you’ll only be using it suppressed, it doesn’t matter how the rifle runs without it.