Well I have just did it finnally got me a 338LM and have a few nice spots close by to streach it out. The big problem is that I'm one of the few people I know that has a truck to lug steel targets out there everyone ealse has jeeps and what not and dont want to lug stuff with them. So what I would like to do is find some steel cheep enough that I can leave out there and stash so if someone finds it and takes it Im not butt hurt. A buddy of mine has a bunch of old farm equipment that a could scrap off of. Anyone else have any sugestions besides buying some ar steel.
- Thread starter snowdin5000
- Start date
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I have been shooting RR tie plates. They are 13"x8", i just
cut up spikes and weld them into the holes. I have been shooting
them with the 308 with out any marks on them at all.
I have been shooting RR tie plates. They are 13"x8", i just
cut up spikes and weld them into the holes. I have been shooting
them with the 308 with out any marks on them at all.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: powerline78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been shooting RR tie plates. They are 13"x8", i just
cut up spikes and weld them into the holes. I have been shooting
them with the 308 with out any marks on them at all. </div></div>
Where do you get something like that?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: powerline78</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been shooting RR tie plates. They are 13"x8", i just
cut up spikes and weld them into the holes. I have been shooting
them with the 308 with out any marks on them at all. </div></div>
Where do you get something like that?
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I use RR tie plates, as well. I have a friend who works at the RR and picks them up for me.
I use RR tie plates, as well. I have a friend who works at the RR and picks them up for me.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
Just walk down the tracks and you'll find tie plates, spikes, and every now and then you'll find a switch plate ( bigger than a tie plate and 3/4" thick). It's all soft steel, so you'll beat it up at close range, but if someone runs off with it, go get another one.
Just walk down the tracks and you'll find tie plates, spikes, and every now and then you'll find a switch plate ( bigger than a tie plate and 3/4" thick). It's all soft steel, so you'll beat it up at close range, but if someone runs off with it, go get another one.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I found a long piece of 12" wide and 1" thick steel. I cut it in 12" pieces so I have a 12"x12" pieces.
Handgun shooting leaves no marks, rifle divots it pretty good, but I just fill the divots in with the welder and keep shooting.
I found a long piece of 12" wide and 1" thick steel. I cut it in 12" pieces so I have a 12"x12" pieces.
Handgun shooting leaves no marks, rifle divots it pretty good, but I just fill the divots in with the welder and keep shooting.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SuppressorJunkie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Laying around rail road tracks all over...Just go walk some tracks and you will find them eventually...We even have a ton of rail laying around </div></div>
Just keep in mind, you could also end up with a big fat ticket while on those tracks. Atleast around here, the rail company does watch for trespassers.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SuppressorJunkie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Laying around rail road tracks all over...Just go walk some tracks and you will find them eventually...We even have a ton of rail laying around </div></div>
Just keep in mind, you could also end up with a big fat ticket while on those tracks. Atleast around here, the rail company does watch for trespassers.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coyote223</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Just keep in mind, you could also end up with a big fat ticket while on those tracks. Atleast around here, the rail company does watch for trespassers. </div></div>
Some guys around here a while back thought they'd swipe some old wood ties the railroad had changed out and got themselves a court date over it......
Check with your local heavy construction outfits and ask about old cutting edges off of their big front end loaders. An outfit I worked for a while back changed out a couple of them and I paid scrap price to get 'em in the back of my truck. If you have access to a cutting torch you can get several nice squares out of one. You'll need to weld up the square bolt holes if you don't want to waste any of it. The stuff I got is one inch thick and we've hammered the hell out of it with no ill effect. Too damn heavy too, for some jackleg to just carry off.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coyote223</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Just keep in mind, you could also end up with a big fat ticket while on those tracks. Atleast around here, the rail company does watch for trespassers. </div></div>
Some guys around here a while back thought they'd swipe some old wood ties the railroad had changed out and got themselves a court date over it......
Check with your local heavy construction outfits and ask about old cutting edges off of their big front end loaders. An outfit I worked for a while back changed out a couple of them and I paid scrap price to get 'em in the back of my truck. If you have access to a cutting torch you can get several nice squares out of one. You'll need to weld up the square bolt holes if you don't want to waste any of it. The stuff I got is one inch thick and we've hammered the hell out of it with no ill effect. Too damn heavy too, for some jackleg to just carry off.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: M54</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The discs from old farm implements can be cheap in some areas, but not necessarily easy to get apart.They are good at longer ranges. </div></div>
I have never shot at disk blades, but I'm pretty sure they are not hardened and a bullet would pass right through them.
If I'm wrong, bonus!! We have a pile of em laying in the scrap heap.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: M54</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The discs from old farm implements can be cheap in some areas, but not necessarily easy to get apart.They are good at longer ranges. </div></div>
I have never shot at disk blades, but I'm pretty sure they are not hardened and a bullet would pass right through them.
If I'm wrong, bonus!! We have a pile of em laying in the scrap heap.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I have been thinking of hanging some blind flanges from chain and seeing how they hold up. I see them at the scrap yard and can buy them for the scrap price. Maybe someone here has experience with this and can say if its a good idea.
I have been thinking of hanging some blind flanges from chain and seeing how they hold up. I see them at the scrap yard and can buy them for the scrap price. Maybe someone here has experience with this and can say if its a good idea.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
Pipe blinds are my primary target. They are soft, 300 WSM leaves a purty good craters 400 and in, out past though just slight divots. Nice thing is you can find em in all kinds of sizes. 3" all the way out to 24".
If you can pick em up for scrap price, rock on!!
Farm disc blades are OK. I have some set up at the in-laws and shoot right off the deck with a .22. Center fire , I'm sure, will pass thru.
Pipe blinds are my primary target. They are soft, 300 WSM leaves a purty good craters 400 and in, out past though just slight divots. Nice thing is you can find em in all kinds of sizes. 3" all the way out to 24".
If you can pick em up for scrap price, rock on!!
Farm disc blades are OK. I have some set up at the in-laws and shoot right off the deck with a .22. Center fire , I'm sure, will pass thru.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
Must...be...quiet...Nope, not working. You guys do know shooting mild steel targets or grades of steel that are unknown is fairly dangerous, correct?? Anytime that steel gets a divot, that means it typically does not fully fragment the bullet, where do you think the bullet goes? That little divot typically directs those large fragments right back at the shooter. I am certainly not saying "buy my steel". I am saying get steel of known hardness at least so you can predict bullet fragmentation, or shoot that mild steel crap no closer than 300 yards.
Must...be...quiet...Nope, not working. You guys do know shooting mild steel targets or grades of steel that are unknown is fairly dangerous, correct?? Anytime that steel gets a divot, that means it typically does not fully fragment the bullet, where do you think the bullet goes? That little divot typically directs those large fragments right back at the shooter. I am certainly not saying "buy my steel". I am saying get steel of known hardness at least so you can predict bullet fragmentation, or shoot that mild steel crap no closer than 300 yards.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: osuarchitect</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Must...be...quiet...Nope, not working. You guys do know shooting mild steel targets or grades of steel that are unknown is fairly dangerous, correct?? Anytime that steel get a divot, that means it typically does not fully fragment the bullet, where do you think the bullet goes? That little divot typically directs those large fragments right back at the shooter. I am certainly not saying "buy my steel". I am saying get steel of known hardness at least so you can predict bullet fragmentation, or shoot that mild steel crap no closer than 300 yards. </div></div>
Agree ^ be careful out there guys.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: osuarchitect</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Must...be...quiet...Nope, not working. You guys do know shooting mild steel targets or grades of steel that are unknown is fairly dangerous, correct?? Anytime that steel get a divot, that means it typically does not fully fragment the bullet, where do you think the bullet goes? That little divot typically directs those large fragments right back at the shooter. I am certainly not saying "buy my steel". I am saying get steel of known hardness at least so you can predict bullet fragmentation, or shoot that mild steel crap no closer than 300 yards. </div></div>
Agree ^ be careful out there guys.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
^ agreed
i run almost all ar500
but i have some mild steel placed from 700-850yds
^ agreed
i run almost all ar500
but i have some mild steel placed from 700-850yds
Re: Idea for cheap steel
We use some plow discs at extended ranges, they get lots of holes in them. On the other hand, they are free.
Over time, we have accumulated tons (literally) of AR500 targets. Since we are so remote, and fenced private land, they are left in place year round.
OSU brings up a very good point. SHooting centerfire rifles into steel from close range is not a swell idea. Closest we have is 250 yards. Everything inside that is paper or foam. Walking or riding downrange to paper holes gives a good break to cool off sporter type rifles, and give the eyes a break from either the scope or the spotter.
We use some plow discs at extended ranges, they get lots of holes in them. On the other hand, they are free.
Over time, we have accumulated tons (literally) of AR500 targets. Since we are so remote, and fenced private land, they are left in place year round.
OSU brings up a very good point. SHooting centerfire rifles into steel from close range is not a swell idea. Closest we have is 250 yards. Everything inside that is paper or foam. Walking or riding downrange to paper holes gives a good break to cool off sporter type rifles, and give the eyes a break from either the scope or the spotter.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I have a bunch of AR500 plates.....
What are minimum 'safe' distances for these plates for pistol (9mm), .22, and centerfire (.223/.308)?
I have a bunch of AR500 plates.....
What are minimum 'safe' distances for these plates for pistol (9mm), .22, and centerfire (.223/.308)?
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I have AR 500. 10 yds min for Handgun. My stand holds it At a 20 degree forward angle. If its squared up, back off some more. Always wear eyepro no matter what! I go 100 min. On .223 and .308. It only knocks off the paint. Steel core .223 will dent AR500 it out to around 300 yds.
I have AR 500. 10 yds min for Handgun. My stand holds it At a 20 degree forward angle. If its squared up, back off some more. Always wear eyepro no matter what! I go 100 min. On .223 and .308. It only knocks off the paint. Steel core .223 will dent AR500 it out to around 300 yds.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
anyone ever shoot at old brake rotors? you could go to midas and beg out scrap from the bin
anyone ever shoot at old brake rotors? you could go to midas and beg out scrap from the bin
Re: Idea for cheap steel
Guys y'all best listen to Big Dog. Spend the money and get ar500 and keep the bottom angled away from you so thenbulletsbdeflect into the ground. Bullets coming back at you leave holes in unwanted places, like you! Be safe
Guys y'all best listen to Big Dog. Spend the money and get ar500 and keep the bottom angled away from you so thenbulletsbdeflect into the ground. Bullets coming back at you leave holes in unwanted places, like you! Be safe
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I've been useing old oxygen tanks that don't pass thier test. I find em for free and they hold up great . Bury a foot of it, make a stand or just put them upside down on a t-post if you can open the top hole up . I Havnt shot mine closer than 500 yards , so I don't know how well they hold up close, but my .308 doesn't bother them at 500+
I've been useing old oxygen tanks that don't pass thier test. I find em for free and they hold up great . Bury a foot of it, make a stand or just put them upside down on a t-post if you can open the top hole up . I Havnt shot mine closer than 500 yards , so I don't know how well they hold up close, but my .308 doesn't bother them at 500+
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I use old excavator track pads. They handle the 338 Lapua like a .22 at any distance. The hits showing are from a 300wsm with 208 Amax bullets at about 300yards.
I use old excavator track pads. They handle the 338 Lapua like a .22 at any distance. The hits showing are from a 300wsm with 208 Amax bullets at about 300yards.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I have various sizes of ar500 plate, from 4" squares to 14" rounds. I shoot them out to 700. After 700 I switch to old cut sections of I-beam. You can get some cheap steel at scrap yards if you ask nicely.
I have various sizes of ar500 plate, from 4" squares to 14" rounds. I shoot them out to 700. After 700 I switch to old cut sections of I-beam. You can get some cheap steel at scrap yards if you ask nicely.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
There is plenty of fairly cheap ar500 steel targets on ebay and most of it has free shipping.
There is plenty of fairly cheap ar500 steel targets on ebay and most of it has free shipping.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
If you have a local heat shop, it might be worth going in and asking what they charge for various heat treatments. I have had some good success carburizing cold rolled steel scrap. My local heat treat shop throws my stuff in for free, because it is usually only a few pieces. It sure does not compare to ar500 or similar steel, but my targets sure last a lot longer, and deform considerably less after carburizing.
If you have a local heat shop, it might be worth going in and asking what they charge for various heat treatments. I have had some good success carburizing cold rolled steel scrap. My local heat treat shop throws my stuff in for free, because it is usually only a few pieces. It sure does not compare to ar500 or similar steel, but my targets sure last a lot longer, and deform considerably less after carburizing.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: upjeeper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">anyone ever shoot at old brake rotors? you could go to midas and beg out scrap from the bin </div></div>
Ever smack one good and hard with a hammer?
Wouldn't be worth the effort to haul em out on a range.......
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: upjeeper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">anyone ever shoot at old brake rotors? you could go to midas and beg out scrap from the bin </div></div>
Ever smack one good and hard with a hammer?
Wouldn't be worth the effort to haul em out on a range.......
Re: Idea for cheap steel
Scrap bins at a local iron works for free, but that's for anything beyond 3-400 yards. I tried dangling 1/4" thick plates with string from a batch marked 2043 T19 for handgun use at 25 yards, and while that wasn't problematic, a friend came in while I wasn't looking and ripped off a mag from an AR and you could hear ricochet from every round. Needless to say I stopped using them until I put them out to 600 yards for my 700. Couldn't find anything on 2043 alloy or the T19 heat treatment, as the only 2xxx series I know of is aluminum, and I didn't have the resource to check the heat treatment after classes finished up.
Scrap bins at a local iron works for free, but that's for anything beyond 3-400 yards. I tried dangling 1/4" thick plates with string from a batch marked 2043 T19 for handgun use at 25 yards, and while that wasn't problematic, a friend came in while I wasn't looking and ripped off a mag from an AR and you could hear ricochet from every round. Needless to say I stopped using them until I put them out to 600 yards for my 700. Couldn't find anything on 2043 alloy or the T19 heat treatment, as the only 2xxx series I know of is aluminum, and I didn't have the resource to check the heat treatment after classes finished up.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
You get out past 400 yards and mild steel is fine for anything up to 7mm or 300 WM.
I've shot rail road plates at 600 with my win mag and it takes the paint off......no divots at all, cant even feel the hits with your finger nail.
You get out past 400 yards and mild steel is fine for anything up to 7mm or 300 WM.
I've shot rail road plates at 600 with my win mag and it takes the paint off......no divots at all, cant even feel the hits with your finger nail.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
Lofty - At 400 our 7mm Magnums punch through 3/8" mild steel like it wasn't there. At 600 they still leave a big divot. I have a friend who's too cheap to buy the good stuff and has a nice place to shoot.
Lofty - At 400 our 7mm Magnums punch through 3/8" mild steel like it wasn't there. At 600 they still leave a big divot. I have a friend who's too cheap to buy the good stuff and has a nice place to shoot.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: osuarchitect</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lofty - At 400 our 7mm Magnums punch through 3/8" mild steel like it wasn't there. At 600 they still leave a big divot. I have a friend who's too cheap to buy the good stuff and has a nice place to shoot.
</div></div>+1
I have a bunch of mild steel targets, I got em for free. They are all 'dishing' due to getting shot, and I dont shoot any of them closer than 600, unless they are the thick ones (1/2"). Even my .223 and .308 blow through at 400yds. But they didnt cost me a dime, and they ring like a million bucks.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: osuarchitect</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lofty - At 400 our 7mm Magnums punch through 3/8" mild steel like it wasn't there. At 600 they still leave a big divot. I have a friend who's too cheap to buy the good stuff and has a nice place to shoot.
</div></div>+1
I have a bunch of mild steel targets, I got em for free. They are all 'dishing' due to getting shot, and I dont shoot any of them closer than 600, unless they are the thick ones (1/2"). Even my .223 and .308 blow through at 400yds. But they didnt cost me a dime, and they ring like a million bucks.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
If you want to shoot handguns at them get soft steel, the rifles will eat up everything except 500.
If you want to shoot handguns at them get soft steel, the rifles will eat up everything except 500.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Yakface</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been thinking of hanging some blind flanges from chain and seeing how they hold up. I see them at the scrap yard and can buy them for the scrap price. Maybe someone here has experience with this and can say if its a good idea.
</div></div>
I shoot at blind flanges with .223 and .308, but no closer than 300 yards. I have them supported with nylon straps and angled down. 200 yards and in dimples them, but 300 yards and out just knocks the paint off. My buddy shot one at 500 with his 300 Weatherby and dimpled it.
I get these for free, so it's tough to spend the money on AR500, but after OSU's post, maybe I can convince my wife that buying them now is the best thing...for safety of course
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Yakface</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been thinking of hanging some blind flanges from chain and seeing how they hold up. I see them at the scrap yard and can buy them for the scrap price. Maybe someone here has experience with this and can say if its a good idea.
</div></div>
I shoot at blind flanges with .223 and .308, but no closer than 300 yards. I have them supported with nylon straps and angled down. 200 yards and in dimples them, but 300 yards and out just knocks the paint off. My buddy shot one at 500 with his 300 Weatherby and dimpled it.
I get these for free, so it's tough to spend the money on AR500, but after OSU's post, maybe I can convince my wife that buying them now is the best thing...for safety of course
Re: Idea for cheap steel
A buddy of mine got scrap snow plow blade edge. It is very hard, and holds up very well. I also know folks using the tie plates.
A buddy of mine got scrap snow plow blade edge. It is very hard, and holds up very well. I also know folks using the tie plates.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I went to a Fab shop and asked if they had any 500 brinnell plate. They had Hardigg 500 which is a through hardened plate. Have shot it as close as 300 yds with nothing but the paint coming off. I re-coat after shooting with bright green marker paint. Very visible to 1500 yes or so. Could probably go with 1/4" out at 700-800. As far as cheap go, I paid 80 for a 24x30"--a16x20--and 2 12x12"s they will last my lifetime and I like to think the grandkids will be banging steel 50 years from now if the gun isn't outlawed by control freaks who feel the need to control everyone else.
I went to a Fab shop and asked if they had any 500 brinnell plate. They had Hardigg 500 which is a through hardened plate. Have shot it as close as 300 yds with nothing but the paint coming off. I re-coat after shooting with bright green marker paint. Very visible to 1500 yes or so. Could probably go with 1/4" out at 700-800. As far as cheap go, I paid 80 for a 24x30"--a16x20--and 2 12x12"s they will last my lifetime and I like to think the grandkids will be banging steel 50 years from now if the gun isn't outlawed by control freaks who feel the need to control everyone else.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
If you're around any ranching/farming areas I would go ask some the old owners to look at their old and broken equipment laying around. Discs off the implements are awesome for shooting. Their very strong and designed to break up roots and rocks so shooting is perfect for them. They can be pretty hard to get off, some require a cutting torch but definitely worth investing the time in for shooting.
If you're around any ranching/farming areas I would go ask some the old owners to look at their old and broken equipment laying around. Discs off the implements are awesome for shooting. Their very strong and designed to break up roots and rocks so shooting is perfect for them. They can be pretty hard to get off, some require a cutting torch but definitely worth investing the time in for shooting.
Re: Idea for cheap steel
I have been using the RR PLates for 338.. I hang it from a chain from the rear so it hangs slightly angled downward.. After shooting there is a nice pile of shrapnel laying under it.. It does dent the steel but the plats are real cheap...
Rick
I have been using the RR PLates for 338.. I hang it from a chain from the rear so it hangs slightly angled downward.. After shooting there is a nice pile of shrapnel laying under it.. It does dent the steel but the plats are real cheap...
Rick
Re: Idea for cheap steel
tag
tag
'Dozer grousers; they've an added feature that can make them very expensive indeed. Hernias as the ones I've collected (grousers, not hernias) weigh 70# and up. My take today is pay to play 'cause it's cheaper that way. Oh yeah, much cheaper.
friends set up steel outside of vegas... as long as they did not paint it white... no one saw it and no one took it...
I am in a high fire area so I must aware of the area around the steel as no one needs a fire started by a sport 40% of America does not get.
I picked up AR500 steel targets from a group buy here- the JC ranch or something like that... the plates were relatively cheap and have held up for years...
If you can find cylinders that failed hydro, they do make for a good 500 yard plus gong.
Remove the valve and hang them with old fire hose. Cut off the bottom with any safe method to improve the ring.
a lot of targets might last longer from thieves if you decorate them with grease. I first saw this on a shotgun pattern board. Guy rolled out axle grease with a simple paint roller. when you shot it, the pattern was revealed.
hanging steel and smearing with grease would keep many from taking it as it would be a damn mess.
If not, bring some grey or tan paint and cover any white or red paint to help them disappear into the background when done shooting
I am in a high fire area so I must aware of the area around the steel as no one needs a fire started by a sport 40% of America does not get.
I picked up AR500 steel targets from a group buy here- the JC ranch or something like that... the plates were relatively cheap and have held up for years...
If you can find cylinders that failed hydro, they do make for a good 500 yard plus gong.
Remove the valve and hang them with old fire hose. Cut off the bottom with any safe method to improve the ring.
a lot of targets might last longer from thieves if you decorate them with grease. I first saw this on a shotgun pattern board. Guy rolled out axle grease with a simple paint roller. when you shot it, the pattern was revealed.
hanging steel and smearing with grease would keep many from taking it as it would be a damn mess.
If not, bring some grey or tan paint and cover any white or red paint to help them disappear into the background when done shooting
Pipefitter blanks are handy.If you guys know anyone at a place like Schlumberger, Halliburton, or other oil and gas related places.
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