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Gunsmithing Ideal cartridge OAL for rifle build?

Nitrosteel

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 12, 2018
216
32
GA
I’m am building a 284 win on a defiance rebel long action with BDL bottom metal (hunting rifle). Planning to shoot 180 Berger hybrid bullets using Peterson brass. GA Precision said they could chamber it using their reamer, but if I wanted to be sure it was done a certain way - to send them 3 loaded rounds of ammo or dummy rounds. I’m having a hard time determining how to come up with the right OAL based on bearing surface, boat tail length, possible donut formation, etc. I’ve gotten different ideas from searching other forums.

Barrel will be a 24” bartlein 3b contour - 8.7 twist.

To complicate things I may end up shooting 160 gr Nosler accubonds or 175 gr Nosler partitions - but neither of these is a priority.

What OAL would you recommend and why?

Thank you for your help.
 
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take a look at gre-tan rifles . how to make a dummy round, might help you. you could get the bullets you may possibly use and seat them noting the bearing surface in the case neck and depth into the case so as not to limit powder capacity and seating into the donut spot. you can possibly pick a throat depth that will work well for several bullets. when I make a dummy case I throat the rifle for .010 clearence of that round. hope this helps.
 
Greg at Gre-Tan rifles was very helpful on the phone today. I highly recommend him for barrel work. He knows his stuff.
 
I’m am building a 284 win on a defiance rebel long action with BDL bottom metal (hunting rifle). Planning to shoot 180 Berger hybrid bullets using Peterson brass. GA Precision said they could chamber it using their reamer, but if I wanted to be sure it was done a certain way - to send them 3 loaded rounds of ammo or dummy rounds. I’m having a hard time determining how to come up with the right OAL based on bearing surface, boat tail length, possible donut formation, etc. I’ve gotten different ideas from searching other forums.

Barrel will be a 24” bartlein 3b contour - 8.7 twist.

To complicate things I may end up shooting 160 gr Nosler accubonds or 175 gr Nosler partitions - but neither of these is a priority.

What OAL would you recommend and why?

Thank you for your help.





As most understand, for a given caliber, the only way to make a bullet heavier is to increase its overall length. -The lead has to go somewhere. This directly influences the FB length built into the chamber. If it's a magical cartridge that is known to be extremely forgiving then the FB length will tolerate a variety of bullet weights seated at "whatever" depths.

The general strategy I try to adhere to is to keep stuff magazine tolerant, while maximizing case volume, and also try to avoid having the bearing surface of the projectile below the neck/shoulder junction of the case. Those are the constraints that have influence on "out the door" performance.

In your case you have a mile of room. The 284 is a SA cartridge. Because you have a long action receiver, you can hang the bullets out of the case to the point that they are ready to fall out of it and you will won't run out of magazine box. At this point its basically like setting up a single shot gun for F Class or whatever.

Here the general strategy again comes to mind. Set them up with the BT/Bearing feature just "north" of the case neck where it intersects with the shoulder. It's just to keep it above any doughnut that might form/be present. It's also a good idea to have at least 1 caliber of seating depth inside the neck of the case. It just helps to ensure the bullet is concentrically seated. Equally (more?) important is that it'll have sufficient surface area to hang onto the bullet securely when bouncing back and forth in an ammo box/magazine/during recoil, etc... so that your seating depths don't go do hell.

You could stretch it out a bit and gain some powder room, but keeping it a bit on the conservative side also allows for chasing the lands as you start putting miles on the barrel and this will build room in the case if the velocity starts to bleed out.

As for wanting to run a variety of bullets through the gun:

There's a trend these days it seems. I gotta have a switch barrel, switch bullet, switch twist, switch scope. . . -get my drift??? Folks who've been around awhile saw this behavior with the AR15 madness 10 years ago. I'm gonna build 10 different uppers to slap on my lower. I gotta "force multiply"...

Later this same community decided that pushing two pins out was too much work so they added more lowers to the lineup until they had complete turn key guns.

My point here is that while you may aspire to run an inventory of "X" types of bullet weights/types for a given caliber, the smarter game is to settle on something that works and then stick to it. The first question I brow beat my clients with is "what is the application?" I don't care about all the technical stuff. I want to know what you plan to use the gun for. That sets the stage so that educated decisions can be made on what parts to use and how it should be put together.

If we were talking I would ask the same question. Once I had that answer I'd encourage you to have the rifle built for that purpose. If it later decides to run the alternative bullets successfully, great. The priority though is to make sure it works for what its intended to do.

Hope this helps.

C.
 
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Pick the bullet you want to use.
Pick a cartridge that will drive bullet to desired velocity.
Make a dummy round that puts bullet in ideal position.
Pick a magazine system that will support needed OAL.
Pick receiver that supports needed magazine system
Have reamer made with needed dimensions
Build rifle

I have multiple reamers for single cartridge depending on bullet being used, end use, etc.
Tried the switch barrel / switch bolt thing....meh. I found I prefer to have a dedicate rifle, plus it is my excuse / rationalization for having more "systems".
 
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