Initial Scope Mounting

[SmokeyJoe101]

Is there a definitive way to ensure the scope is in line with the barrel? I am not referring to level, but alignment. I know windage turrets will get you zeroed for a specific range, but what if the scope is not parallel with the barrel? Maybe I am over thinking this.

 

[sloporsche]

good question. I just changed scope mounts but before they came i took DAYS with the rifle locked into a vice ,leveling it with the old bottom half of the mounts with every level in my garage . Then when the new mounts came it put them on [bottom half] and went about fine tuning the level , i placed the scope into the mounts to see if i could detect any misalignment ....which i did not find. I set the scope on and leveled it by the top adjustment flange ,put it all together and tightened [DAYS] . I put the rifle on my kitchen counter top ,looking out about 50 yards and the cross hairs were off [canted] sssssssoooooo days of playing rocket scientist i used my MARK 1 eye ball and all is aligned .....proofed at the range. IMHO if your rifle scope mount holes and the lower mount holes line up ....slap em on . I should add there was a very small scope adjustment needed at the range going from old mounts to new mounts , i replaced old brush see through with lower ones on an old A bolt browning 300 winmag pentax 3x9

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Both of you are way overthinking this process.

My process takes about 15 minutes and afterwards I'm level, the rings are torqued, and nothing is going to slip. I torque the cross bolts to the rail then set the scope in the rings/mount, I use a set of feeler gauges to level the bottom of the turret globe to the rail, I tighten the ring caps screws, and finally remove the feeler gauges. I use this process on every scope I've mounted whether it's precision bolt guns or go faster AR's, easy breezy.

 

[sloporsche]

Both of you are way overthinking this process.

My process takes about 15 minutes and afterwards I'm level, the rings are torqued, and nothing is going to slip. I torque the cross bolts to the rail then set the scope in the rings/mount, I use a set of feeler gauges to level the bottom of the turret globe to the rail, I tighten the ring caps screws, and finally remove the feeler gauges. I use this process on every scope I've mounted whether it's precision bolt guns or go faster AR's, easy breezy.

yepper but it was my first time doing one .....i will do it the much easier way next time .....that was my message to the OP after all the leveling i used my eye sight and no problems

 

[SmokeyJoe101]

thanx all, I get all the leveling, reticle alignment stuff; my question is more geared towards scope alignment with the barrel. You can still have a level scope, but what if your rail is slightly off alignment or the barrel is ever slightly off alignment with the bore?

 

[sloporsche]

thanx all, I get all the leveling, reticle alignment stuff; my question is more geared towards scope alignment with the barrel. You can still have a level scope, but what if your rail is slightly off alignment or the barrel is ever slightly off alignment with the bore?

adjust it ....that is why they have adjustments because nothing in installation part wise is dead balls perfect

 

[Brym427]

Thats exactly what i do too

Both of you are way overthinking this process.

My process takes about 15 minutes and afterwards I'm level, the rings are torqued, and nothing is going to slip. I torque the cross bolts to the rail then set the scope in the rings/mount, I use a set of feeler gauges to level the bottom of the turret globe to the rail, I tighten the ring caps screws, and finally remove the feeler gauges. I use this process on every scope I've mounted whether it's precision bolt guns or go faster AR's, easy breezy

 

[DubfromGA]

thanx all, I get all the leveling, reticle alignment stuff; my question is more geared towards scope alignment with the barrel. You can still have a level scope, but what if your rail is slightly off alignment or the barrel is ever slightly off alignment with the bore?

Which rail are you using ?


Which action ?

 

[SmokeyJoe101]

Which rail are you using ?


Which action ?

It is a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. Has the OEM barrel with the Picatinny rail in bolt action

 

[SmokeyJoe101]

I think this picture better explains what I am trying to say. How do you check for this alignment?

 

[anonymousskulls]

@SmokeyJoe101

If the rifle scope is offset .0697" at the point of origin, and zeroed at 100 yards, then at 1000 yards it will be 9 * .0697 = .6273 *inches* left of your target. The starting error is so low, and the zero distance so relatively far(3600" for .0697") that it just won't be noticeable.

 

[Slides]

I think this picture better explains what I am trying to say. How do you check for this alignment?View attachment 8398374

16mm at 1000 yards isn't the end if the world but 1.8mm on the rifle/action/rail should be easily visible just by eye.


+1 for feeler guages and send. So much easier than worrying about leveling the rifle on a really solid base/vice, not disturbing it, if the turret on the scope is true or messing about with string lines.

 

[DFOOSKING]

, but what if your rail is slightly off alignment or the barrel is ever slightly off alignment with the bore?

What do you think you are doing when your initial zeroing?

It's not if.....its when.

Nothing is perfect. You are correcting the sights for all tolerance stacking of the individual parts.

 

[6.5SH]

I've only had one rifle that had such a gross misalignment, a build that was done on an Armscor M-21 receiver. It was 3 feet to the right at 50 yards.
It was visible to the naked eye when looking at it from above, which I didn't really examine when mounting the scope at the time.

Given the ease which most rifles can be coarse bore sighted it's a non issue 99.99% of the time.

If your OCD forces you to measure it, the only alignment kit I know of that had an indicator for it was the one made by Kokopelli. I don't think they are even in business anymore. The second method would be a perfectly straight long rod or dowel set straight in the bottom of the rings. The added length makes it easier to see any alignment issues. In the era of "turn in" front and windage adjustable rear rings this had more importance. No one is using stuff like that anymore.

 

[SmokeyJoe101]

What do you think you are doing when your initial zeroing?

It's not if.....its when.

Nothing is perfect. You are correcting the sights for all tolerance stacking of the individual parts.

I agree the zeroing takes up for this error. I am probably over thinking this and it is a non-issue. When you look at Burris XTR rings the one with the sleeve in the kit, they have different rings for MOA’s. Their direction discuss shot alignment and how to basically mechanically zero the scope, but by using shot placement.
I think In general it is best to align this mechanically as best as possible, then use adjustments to fine tune

 

[SmokeyJoe101]

I've only had one rifle that had such a gross misalignment, a build that was done on an Armscor M-21 receiver. It was 3 feet to the right at 50 yards.
It was visible to the naked eye when looking at it from above, which I didn't really examine when mounting the scope at the time.

Given the ease which most rifles can be coarse bore sighted it's a non issue 99.99% of the time.

If your OCD forces you to measure it, the only alignment kit I know of that had an indicator for it was the one made by Kokopelli. I don't think they are even in business anymore. The second method would be a perfectly straight long rod or dowel set straight in the bottom of the rings. The added length makes it easier to see any alignment issues. In the era of "turn in" front and windage adjustable rear rings this had more importance. No one is using stuff like that anymore.

yes rods would work

 

[Trigger Monkey]

I agree the zeroing takes up for this error. I am probably over thinking this and it is a non-issue.

Again, yup.

Really the only time it'd be an issue is if excessive amounts of windage was used to zero or there wasn't enough adjustment to get zeroed. At that point you can try adjustable rings which is really just a bandaid or you can have a smith open up the scope base holes to bring them into alignment.