Has anyone here had any dealings, or heard of this company? The reason I ask, I ordered A collet die for belted cases and a digital headspace gauge from them on Aug. 8th When I ordered it I spoke With Jay, and he said it might be close to a month before it shipped. At the one month mark, I called them and left a voicemail. Still nothing. I have tried to call several times since. voice mail is full . A week ago, I sent a email. Still no reply. This was paid for on Aug 8th. All I can do is wait. Did i get scammed?
- Thread starter T-Hoe
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I purchased a Collet die from them a few years ago. I know they make runs of the collet die and there's a wait for them to make another run. When I bought mine, it was in stock and I got it promptly. I did have an issue with a scope level. When I called, I spoke to Larry who took care of the issue.
I would say keep trying. There might be a family issue or other thing going on.
They've been good to me in the past.
I would say keep trying. There might be a family issue or other thing going on.
They've been good to me in the past.
Larry has been gone for a while now, but that torch was passed and the business is still running.
https://www.dignitymemorial.com/obituaries/altamonte-springs-fl/larry-willis-10853827
They are a cottage industry, so no CS department or deep bench. They farm out their parts to other small shops, and sometimes there are dry spots in their pipeline.
Give them a little time, in the past they have always come through.
https://www.dignitymemorial.com/obituaries/altamonte-springs-fl/larry-willis-10853827
They are a cottage industry, so no CS department or deep bench. They farm out their parts to other small shops, and sometimes there are dry spots in their pipeline.
Give them a little time, in the past they have always come through.
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same thing happened to me but I was 2 months ago waiting on my collet die. Jay quite calling people back and emailing. he gave me his cell phone when I sent a few email and then he ignored those calls. I eventually canceled the order but he's the only one selling something to fix my 300 bulge so im back to waiting.
Sounds like we are in the same boat. Hopefully he will come through and we won’t lose our money.
I’d be happy to dm you his cell. He may claim he doesn’t get your calls but he sure as shit will reply when you send some mean texts.
My stuff actually shipped yesterday.
If you don’t care, send me his number. I’m not going to get pissy with him. I just want a reply of some kind. I’m in business also , and I know that not replying to customers is a bad thing.
I would gladly share his number with anyone he is ghosting or giving down right false information to (like for the multiple weeks he told me he was about to ship my dies but didn't even have them in hand).
Maury gold, did you receive your parts ? I have not.
Mine works fine. IT takes good lube though. That is lube on the collet, inside and out, the inside of the die, and the brass. Did you remove the collet from the die, and put it on the piece of brass, then run it all into the die? I seem to remember it being a little weird to set up. I haven't used it in a long time. If memory serves me some people with bigger bulges had trouble wit it. .513 or .515 maybe, vs guys with .511 or .513. There are some specific thread but I don't know if they were titled well and easy to find.
Yes. Tried once with the rec imperial Dixie wax and once with the alpha lube. Same result - instant locked brass. I sent my brass to Whidden to have a custom die made.
Well, that’s not good. Maybe I should try for a refund before I get mine.
They can make a die that sizes down to the belt? I feel like about the only choices I have heard of for the bulge is LW collet die, or roll sizing. I used one shot spray lube on mine. You might dig up the old threads if you can. It seems like some of the people having trouble were using imperial wax. Maybe its not great for the steel on steel.
Thats the recommended lube on the instructions. Yes - i talked to John Whidden personally who told me they could and I see absolutely no reason they couldn’t with brass in hand.
I can see how it would be very difficult to make a FL die that both reaches the belt and achieves desired bump. I always figured if you could just ram the brass into a tube to size above the belt, people would do that. Whats your brass measure above the belt?
what? the bump is on the shoulder and the sides can be any length irrespective of the shoulder as it's angled. I haven't measured it - regardless of what it is that's my chambering
My L/W collet die works perfectly. There is a learning curve to using it. I remember cleaning off the factory lube and re- lubing the collet inside & out with Imperial lube. You use the Collet die after using your F/L die first. Your regular F/L die does the shoulder bumping and sizing the case neck. The Collet die doesn't bump the shoulder, it only sizes the sides of the case all the way down to the belt where the bulge above the belt issue is.
The top of the Collet die die is a drop in case gauge you use after F/L sizing in your regular F/L die.
If the sized case doesn't drop in the top down to the belt, then it needs the Collet die. If it drops in all the way to the belt, you don't need the Collet sizing.
You should use some expendable brass to practice on. The die needs to be seasoned & the die instructions need to be read carefully.
The top of the Collet die die is a drop in case gauge you use after F/L sizing in your regular F/L die.
If the sized case doesn't drop in the top down to the belt, then it needs the Collet die. If it drops in all the way to the belt, you don't need the Collet sizing.
You should use some expendable brass to practice on. The die needs to be seasoned & the die instructions need to be read carefully.
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There’s a learning curve to putting lube on something and shoving it in a die? I don’t think so.
90% of the sizing issues from people posting on this forum are user error issues. This forum does get it's share of Retards. I was just trying to help.
Maybe your die is fucked up.
Maybe your die is fucked up.
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No they can't. The distance from the shoulder to the top of the belt would have to be exact to your chamber and brass. Otherwise it's just a regular FL die that proabaly won't size the bulge.
Yes, learing curve. Now two people who successfully use the die have told you that.
Yes. Exact to my chamber. Which they have brass from to make the die? Not sure what’s confusing you about that.
Explain to me the learning curve of slathering something in wax or lube and running a ram. I’m a very advanced reloader not some jackass crushing unwashed cases in a fl die.
Oh shit. I had no idea you were high speed low drag. My bad, no fucking way it's you.
If you jammed not one but two pieces of brass all the way in and stuck it on not justthe first but second try too. That sounds alot more like the later mentioned ham fisted gorilla.
Do you know what seasoned means? He is refering to working lube into the surfaces. I had do do the same thing. I am just not as high speed as you. So I didn't ram it all in at once and stick it, like you.
Cornfused
I think I understand pretty well but I could be wrong. I don't think your custom die is going to do what you think it will and I think you are going to be back to the LW die. Or just backing off your loads. Oh shit forgot. High speed low drag. We know that ain't happenin. Oh shit. I had no idea you were high speed low drag. My bad, no fucking way it's you.
If you jammed not one but two pieces of brass all the way in and stuck it on not justthe first but second try too. That sounds alot more like the later mentioned ham fisted gorilla.
Do you know what seasoned means? He is refering to working lube into the surfaces. I had do do the same thing. I am just not as high speed as you. So I didn't ram it all in at once and stick it, like you.
Cornfused
Making fun of me while being confused how a custom die is made for my exact chambering counterintuitive. But pleas explain how you know more than John Whidde
I don’t see where anyone claimed that.
I only see where you seem to not know as much as you purport to.
“Yes - i talked to John Whidden personally who told me they could” you’re blind and stupid?
Seriously what in your brain makes you think you can’t make a custom die with brass in hand that would size to the belt??
No one was talking about widden but rather your inability to work the lw collet.
Good luck to you with whatever it is that you do, hopefully you figure it out in less than two cases before giving up. Lord knows no one will try to help you going forward after this.
Nope he was talking about how it’s impossible to make a custom for that will size the shoulder and to the belt. Maybe you should help him out
I didn’t ask for help - I tried to help another member being jerked around by the new owner of the company Jay. Because we waited for months for these and im suspecting the machining or something was not on par because I immediately LOCKED two cases. Please don’t offer help to someone then just tell them they’re wrong and have no actual advise then cry about it. That’s even less helpful
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Well , Jay says my doe is going to be shipped soon. I will try my luck at it.
O/P, here's a couple of videos to help you out. There's also others out there.
You do need to orient the collet correctly. When you slide the collet over the case, The beveled side goes up toward the case mouth and the straight side side goes toward the belt. When you size, the case gets stuck a little bit in the collet. As you'll see in the videos, there's a couple of ways to remove the case from the collet. It does take some pressure to do the sizing @ the belt.
Almost all of my reloading is done in batches of 100 rounds.
I've had and used the Larry Wilson collet die for about 20 years. I use it primarily on 300 WINMAG. Using this die, I have been able to go from tossing brass after 4-5 reloads to getting 10-12 reloads. It has definitely paid for itself.
I've never had a piece of brass ruined by the die set.
I do recall soaking the set in some diesel fuel overnight and then cleaning well before using the first time. I have to clean the set some, just a quick wipe down with a denatured alcohol cloth, every 20 rounds or so.
I've had and used the Larry Wilson collet die for about 20 years. I use it primarily on 300 WINMAG. Using this die, I have been able to go from tossing brass after 4-5 reloads to getting 10-12 reloads. It has definitely paid for itself.
I've never had a piece of brass ruined by the die set.
I do recall soaking the set in some diesel fuel overnight and then cleaning well before using the first time. I have to clean the set some, just a quick wipe down with a denatured alcohol cloth, every 20 rounds or so.
What incredibly typical behavior. Being arrogant and abrasive , then crying victim when someone pushes back.
Implying I don't know how to use the die with zero advice other than to break it in is going to get abrasive behavior. ESPECIALLY from a guy can't figure out how a custom die could be made to size to the belt??
I have been using the LW die for about 20 years (which is about how long I've been a member here) am thoroughly acquainted with it, and therefore aware that it *is* possible to f it up.
Except for you. You couldn't possibly have f'd it up, or even *entertain* the possibility that you f'd it up- because the concept of self-reflection escapes you.
I'll pay shipping both ways for you to test mine. Putting a bunch of lube on the brass and insert isn't that hard - so yeah I'm pretty confused as to how I could have fucked it up.
Thanks for the input guys. When min comes in, I will give it a try. Then report back. Thanks again.
Can you explain or post pictures of the damage caused to your cases? I got one of the dies when Larry was still with us and have never had an issue with the die. Trying to determine if there is something that can go wrong that I need to look out for.
ripped off at the rim of Lapua 300 win mag and ADG 7mm Rem Mag. Took an extraordinary amount of force to extract the broken case with my case extraction kit.
Sounds like you didn't use enough lube during the process.
Nope, not what I said. Thats just what you understood. These are the things that make me question you...
I think you are confused. {quote below} So, I have no idea what you told "John Whidden" or if you understood what he told you. I hope your custom die works out and you don't end up with a die married to one chamber and sorted brass. {Same measurement base to the top of the belt} And that it actually busts the belt bulge while achieving desired .001-.003 shoulder bump because 300wm barrels don't last that long and it sounds like you have quite a bit of money in dies for it already. I am not confident that is what you will get.
BTW, the sides of the case are tapered too.
A force equal to the amount it took to push it in. Sometimes when things are going together hard, we just have to stop back off and reassess. I have definitely had other dies that needed a lubed case ran part way in, remove and re-lube.
I figured a high level reloader like you could do his own foot work and look up some videos and some of the threads I referenced on the subject. Most people with some gumption and knowledge don't need spoon fed.
Lol - “ I hope your custom die works out and you don't end up with a die married to one chamber and sorted brass.” - that’s exactly what I want! The fact you can’t get that still mystifies me.
You also don’t bump belted cartridges like you would non-belted. Again you’re accusing me of not knowing anything while blatantly being unaware.
Yes I watched videos and no- the force to extract was 30x that going in. You’re just hurling insults while not understanding. I worked the die and volley multiple times while re-greasing and it fucking locked in there.
I really can’t with you. Show me the taper wall you speak of?? “BTW, the sides of the case are tapered too”
no bump on belted rounds. it will push the case walls down farther and increase the bulge above the belt that you are measuring a claimed taper at.Yes, you do bump belted cartridges just like others....If you know what you are doing.
Go measure a case...mine .509 above the belt and .486 below the shoulder.
This has not been my experience at all.
I set up just like a non-belted round. Using a fireformed piece of brass, I only bump the shoulder back 0.002". Every other shooter I know that shoots a belted cased round does it this way. With my 300WINMAGS, I usually have to use the collet die after 3-4 firings. Same for the 7mm Remington Magnum.
Edit to add: The case is most definitely tapered between the belt and shoulder.
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I’m not saying you can’t but the shooters I know with belted goes for 0-1 thou bump because it is less stress on the bulge and will still chamber.
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