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Gunsmithing installing flush cups into hs precision stock

Pat,

Is what you state about cutting the inside bigger better than following the instructions that came with. They are telling me to drill out a 1/2" bore to depth then run a 9/16" tap in. Screw in the flush cups to check for fit and flushness, then remove and apply epoxy and reinstall. Not sure I follow the t-nut and flathead stove bolt.

Ken
 
Ken, you want to follow the drill and tap instructions. enlarging the bottom would be for non threaded flush cups. I also take a slightly larger drill bit and pre-drill just a touch (maybe 1/16) this allows the cups to be flush but still allow the quick release sling to rotate freely. I use the epoxy from Home Depot that has the two compounds in a syringe but JB should be fine.
 
The butt of the HS is going to either be hollow or full of low density foam, neither of which will do jack if threaded. The only part of an HS that will receive any threading would be the outer shell. As such, if the inside is full of foam it is a good idea to remove some of the foam behind the hole so that a mechanical lock can be provided. If your stock ends up being hollow, place some of the adhesive inside the stock around the perimeter of the hole. Also place the epoxy on the flush cup . When you screw it in, the eopxy on the blush cup will bond with that already placed insisde the stock and provide the desired mechanical lock.
 
Yes this is the info I'm looking for. So no need to order a tap. just drill, fit, and epoxy.

Thanks,
Guys
 
Pat,

Is what you state about cutting the inside bigger better than following the instructions that came with. They are telling me to drill out a 1/2" bore to depth then run a 9/16" tap in. Screw in the flush cups to check for fit and flushness, then remove and apply epoxy and reinstall. Not sure I follow the t-nut and flathead stove bolt.

Ken

This is how HS and McMillan do them at the factory. Has worked well for me.