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Is breaking in an AR barrel really worth it? What is your process with a new barrel?

KCode

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 25, 2019
208
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Since the other thread about bedding went so well I want to put together another video. What process do you do for your new barrels and do you do this for ALL of your barrels or just long range ones?

Can someone tell me who this gentleman is and what company he might be connected with?

 
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Over the last 40 years (+/-) of shooting, anytime I have purchased or built an AR, I will usually just shoot a few 5-round groups to get a feel for how the rifle operates. Once I have done four or five rounds like that, I will just shoot as I see fit.

When I've built AR's (large & small), I will do single round shots to get lockback whilst tuning the adjustable gas block (my preference when building is to have an AGB, so I can adjust gas vs mass, if or when needed). Once I have the AGB tuned, I'll just shoot as desired.

Will clean after shooting and lubricate as appropriate (full wet for large frame AR's, light wet for small frame AR's).

That's what works for me...your mileage may vary 😁 :ROFLMAO:
 
On cheap barrels I speed up the process with tubbs final finish, my goal is to get the gas port stable as quickly as possible. If I use a premium barrel I just shoot and clean afterwards and not get too serious with load development or stress over accuracy until I get a couple hundred rounds thru it, mainly because I never know if tubbs ff will void a warranty.
 
I have several Rock River Arms uppers. They will tell you that no break in is required. Wilson Combat makes their barrels and are already lapped.
 
Having a borescope really helps to determine just what you're starting with in terms of any break in to do. The better the barrel quality, the less there is to do - if anything.

This is the technique I've been using for 25 years - and I'm still really just guessing, based on past successes, so take this for what it's worth.

Using the 10X Hawkeye borescope, I look over the entire barrel, with particular attention paid to the throat, gas port, and crown. Chamber concentricity can't be measured this way, but you can see if something is not right. This once kept me from accepting twenty SS barrels from an esteemed barrel maker I will no longer use.

There's a surprising amount of crap (release agent?) left inside a new chrome lined barrel, typically. I'm talking top shelf like DD and Noveske. I think chrome lined barrels benefit from a good scrubbing with JB Bore Paste or KG-2 prior to shooting. Chrome is harder than woodpecker lips, but this does I think help smooth things out you can't even see at 10X. It at a minimum gets all that nasty copper colored stuff out. The barrels treated this way seem to stay cleaner longer, too.

VFG felt pellets (from Brownell's) with KG-2 will help smooth out any tool marks left in the throat or at the gas port with any barrel. Stay away from the crown, meaning if you push the felt pellets (I use two at a time) all the way through, you remove the tip and start over at the throat. I'll use a hundred 2" strokes in the throat, tightening the felt pellets on the cleaning rod every twenty. Then twenty passes on the entire bore.

I just use high quality SS barrels from Craddock Precision, Proof Research, and V Seven, so there's really nothing left to do with these barrels in terms of break in.

A couple of minutes with KG-2 in a new throat won't hurt, though. It's far less expensive than the ammo used in a typical break in, and dumps zero heat into the barrel at its most vulnerable point.
 
FYI.. here are a bunch of Joe Carlos articles.
https://www.thefreelibrary.com/Carlos,+Joe-a14906

And I will second the use of VFG pellets... they just seem to be easier for me and my barrels.

Not every barrel needs a break-in , so dependent on the quality , is how I break in and clean.
 
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Both my criterion cores took about 200 rounds to settle down. I typically break in with the ammo I'll be zeroing/using for real things as this gives me a chance to see if the barrel likes the ammo. The first core just tightened up during its first 200-the second one wandered a bit until about 180 when it tighted up. Ymmv

I tend to clean it before the first shot to remove any chemical in it. Then run it until it settles. Clean it, make any final adjustments then test. Clean one last time to check for shift then just go about the normal schedule. My current 12.5 gets a bit tighter after I've put about 50 rounds through it, though the actual centered zero remains the same

An interesting side note regarding the criterion wylde chambers... the velocities seem to be higher with whatever round I broke it in with. Not a huge bump but I did notice it to be consistent. So if I plan to zero/use mk262 that's what I break it in with.
 
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