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Is red threadlocker acceptable

Northtogladwin

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 28, 2020
146
39
I need to attach a Q cherry bomb to my 8 inch 300 blackout, I NEVER plan on switching devices for this barrel.
I dont want to order rocksett and wait, anybody use red loctite or supressor adaptors
 
Wait for Rocksett. Rocksett has a better temperature range than standard 271 red loctite. Red loctite usually can be removed once heated past 450-500 F. On a heavy use semi-auto suppressor host, 500 is actually pretty easy to reach (just run a full mag through your 300 and get laser thermometer and see for yourself). Rocksett has a temp range up to 1500 F sometimes more depending on the variation.
 
I don't think the loctite is rated for much heat, that's the problem. You're gonna want rokset for other guns eventually, just order it.

I'm sure the loctite is fine for this weekend if you wanna blast a bit, just pull the cherry bomb off later and redo it. Isn't it non-directional anyway? Easy peasy.
 
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I need to attach a Q cherry bomb to my 8 inch 300 blackout, I NEVER plan on switching devices for this barrel.
I dont want to order rocksett and wait, anybody use red loctite or supressor adaptors

Definitely use rockset. It's for that type of applications and red locker is not. The red locker won't work. Just order some rockset and it will be to you in a few days.... don't put anything on it, screw it on and roll with it for now, then when the rockset comes in, rock set it and forget it.
 
Doesn't change the fact red will still work fine and that proper torque is more important.

I just don't feel like arguing about it today so do whatever floats your boat.

But Rocksett isn't magical and can shatter with just a tap to the end of the muzzle. This is per them and that's how they recommend to remove it, that water won't penetrate the threads most times but that it shatters like glass otherwise.

The heat it takes to loosen red is approaching the heat it takes to trash the rifle anyway. It'll be rare you heat it that far and in the case you do, again, proper torque...

Never had one fail, never seen one fail.

I don't bet unless it's a sure thing, so I bet you $100 you can't remove a brake on one of my rifles after dumping a mag without the use of proper tools including a vise and/or reaction rod and wrench.

Sico recommends both and 1SFG gunsmith used it, if he used anything at all.

Nothing wrong with Rocksett, they both have pros and cons, but to say it's the only thing on Earth is disingenuous and naive, we've managed to make shit work just fine before they came along.
 
Doesn't change the fact red will still work fine and that proper torque is more important.

I just don't feel like arguing about it today so do whatever floats your boat.

But Rocksett isn't magical and can shatter with just a tap to the end of the muzzle. This is per them and that's how they recommend to remove it, that water won't penetrate the threads most times but that it shatters like glass otherwise.

The heat it takes to loosen red is approaching the heat it takes to trash the rifle anyway. It'll be rare you heat it that far and in the case you do, again, proper torque...

Never had one fail, never seen one fail.

I don't bet unless it's a sure thing, so I bet you $100 you can't remove a brake on one of my rifles after dumping a mag without the use of proper tools including a vise and/or reaction rod and wrench.

Sico recommends both and 1SFG gunsmith used it, if he used anything at all.

Nothing wrong with Rocksett, they both have pros and cons, but to say it's the only thing on Earth is disingenuous and naive, we've managed to make shit work just fine before they came along.

I don't use any sort of loctite or Rockset and never had a problem. I have never had one work loose or stick inside my can. All I do is torque it down and I don't even muscle it on.
 
I generally use Rocksett but straight from TBAC instructions - "Remove brake and apply thread locking compound (Red Loctite or equivalent) to muzzle threads."
 
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Doesn't change the fact red will still work fine and that proper torque is more important.

I just don't feel like arguing about it today so do whatever floats your boat.

But Rocksett isn't magical and can shatter with just a tap to the end of the muzzle. This is per them and that's how they recommend to remove it, that water won't penetrate the threads most times but that it shatters like glass otherwise.

The heat it takes to loosen red is approaching the heat it takes to trash the rifle anyway. It'll be rare you heat it that far and in the case you do, again, proper torque...

Never had one fail, never seen one fail.

I don't bet unless it's a sure thing, so I bet you $100 you can't remove a brake on one of my rifles after dumping a mag without the use of proper tools including a vise and/or reaction rod and wrench.

Sico recommends both and 1SFG gunsmith used it, if he used anything at all.

Nothing wrong with Rocksett, they both have pros and cons, but to say it's the only thing on Earth is disingenuous and naive, we've managed to make shit work just fine before they came along.

I have never had a muzzle device come loose with red Loktite in hundreds of applications.
 
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Red locktite will soften at high temps, but who is removing/handling a 500+ degree can? When it cools down it resolidifies and the strength returns. That is how thermoplastics work.