Doubt it, but there are universal grind to fit pads.I'm shooting a 308 in the ACC so it kicks a little. I shot a friend's rifle (not an acc) in 308 and he had a limbsaver pad on it and I could stay on target better.
Is there a part number for a limbsaver pad for the ACC?
Almost 24#How heavy is the gun?
I never said it kicks to much. I would like every advantage I can get to help stay on target to better spot my hits.24# and a brake on it and it still kicks too much?!
Why not go 6 or 6.5? The advantages are many. Are you chasing those tac class trophies?I never said it kicks to much. I would like every advantage I can get to help stay on target to better spot my hits.
This is a 308 not a 6mm
I didn't know anything about this game when I decided to give it a shot and thought 308 was a good caliber to get. I shot two matches, both at new Holland PA. The first was the beginners match and it was an ok amount of fun. The second was a regular match and I thought it was the dumbest thing I've ever seen/done, shooting off the weirdest things anyone could imagine. It's been a couple of years since then. A friend of mine is getting into it so we're going to a better match in Tremont PA in a couple of weeks.Why not go 6 or 6.5? The advantages are many. Are you chasing those tac class trophies?
I'm going to make a few suggestions, shorten your LOP a bit to where you're totally square behind the rifle with shoulders, hips and body to take the recoil straight line with body. Run the butt pad in against your clavicle/neck junction, the closer to center your body the better. You may need drop your cheek piece as usually this requires more jaw weld than cheek. You don't want your butt pad in the shoulder pocket, this usually causes recoil to send sight picture up and left on right hand shooters. Where is your balance point on that rifle? Appears to be a fluted Tikka factory barrel even with their heavier contour, that's a light action/barrel. To get that up to 24# if you're slightly rear heavy that will cause a lot of muzzle rise in shots too. Put some body into the gun forward, but also apply pressure from grip back to shoulder. Squeeze. These things should help. I mean I can spot shots from a 12# Tikka ctr 65cm thats using a mbm lil bastard, I'd think a 24# 308 wouldn't be tough.Almost 24#View attachment 8176030
Dude it's like you know everything about me. Yes, exactly, it kicks up and left. I can't remember where the balance is I rarely touch this gun but it probably is rear heavy. I also don't pull the grip back like you said, I just kinda let it sit there and free recoil.I'm going to make a few suggestions, shorten your LOP a bit to where you're totally square behind the rifle with shoulders, hips and body to take the recoil straight line with body. Run the butt pad in against your clavicle/neck junction, the closer to center your body the better. You may need drop your cheek piece as usually this requires more jaw weld than cheek. You don't want your butt pad in the shoulder pocket, this usually causes recoil to send sight picture up and left on right hand shooters. Where is your balance point on that rifle? Appears to be a fluted Tikka factory barrel even with their heavier contour, that's a light action/barrel. To get that up to 24# if you're slightly rear heavy that will cause a lot of muzzle rise in shots too. Put some body into the gun forward, but also apply pressure from grip back to shoulder. Squeeze. These things should help. I mean I can spot shots from a 12# Tikka ctr 65cm thats using a mbm lil bastard, I'd think a 24# 308 wouldn't be tough.