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Is this a Factory or a Lightweight Remington 700 Firing Pin?

Amanda4461

Loves Dobermans!
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 11, 2009
361
399
Asheboro, North Carolina
While doing load development with my 700 in .223 Remington, I used factory loads and my handloads. My 73gr ELD handloads using CCI 400 SR Primers worked 100%. Federal factory 55gr FMJ loads worked 100%.
ALL NATO spec loads from the factory, the ones with crimped and/or sealed primers, failed to ignite. ALL of my handloads that I use in my AR type weapons, all of which are loaded with the CCI-41 NATO-spec primers, failed to ignite.
ALL loads had light primer indentations.
I bought this weapon second hand, so I took it apart and cleaned it thoroughly. The bolt had been dismantled and cleaned, lightly oiled and reassembled. It has fired several thousand rounds without issue until today, all with handloads using the standard CCI 400 SR primer. NONE of the factory Mil-spec ammo, nor any of my handloads using CCI-41 primers would ignite.
Seeing the light indentations on the NATO primed ammo, I pulled the bolt apart. The picture shows the Firing Pin. It doesn’t look like a cylinder, as does the replacement I ordered, along with a Wolff factory spring.
Does this Firing Pin look like a lightened model, or could it be a factory pin?
Thanks for your guidance!
Amanda
E5D9D156-5009-4215-8617-6A3A92F47DBC.jpeg
B87F9F6E-C1DB-4B0E-B676-5D5735D310D1.jpeg
 
Exactly the same factory firing pin I took out of my 700 .223, mine was nasty/ pitted from the factory, replaced it with a Gre-Tan firing pin and spring.
 
I suspect the spring has been shortened. I was surprised to find most small parts either out of stock, or backordered. Reminds me of Colt after they quit making the Python.
 
I tried some of those high speed light weight pins and they caused light primer strikes and had to replace them. My Factory Remmy have been good.

PB
 
@Amanda4461 check
firing pin channel and bolt for debris
firing pin protrusion
firing pin tip for damage
headspace
sear draging on cocking piece
 
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@Amanda4461 check
firing pin channel and bolt for debris
firing pin protrusion
firing pin tip for damage
headspace
sear draging on cocking piece
All above check out fine. The pin protrudes .052”. I had a problem months ago with the previous Remington trigger group, but replaced with a new Timney. Since the rifle only fails to ignite the CCI-41 type primers, I will replace the lightened firing pin with a solid version, and use a new firing pin spring as well. Thanks for the advice!
Amanda
 
All above check out fine. The pin protrudes .052”. I had a problem months ago with the previous Remington trigger group, but replaced with a new Timney. Since the rifle only fails to ignite the CCI-41 type primers, I will replace the lightened firing pin with a solid version, and use a new firing pin spring as well. Thanks for the advice!
Amanda
I was going to suggest replacing the firing pin spring first, but it doesn’t hurt to have a spare firing pin on hand either. In SASS and USPSA Revolver class, I have seen where the firing pin spring/main spring has been lightened for ease of cocking to the point that the shooter can ONLY use Federal primers that are seated to a specific depth. Granted we are talking Revolvers vs. rifles, but a slightly stiffer bolt lift (cocking) versus everything goes bang is a trade off that only you can make.

Remember that springs can and will wear out, especially light ones.

Edit for fat fingers
 
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Replaced firing pin and spring. Midway provided the parts, which were marked as made by the dreaded PTG. Spring was only 14lbs., and the pin is a full-diameter model, not a lightweight. Set off 200 rounds with CCI-41 primers today.👍
 
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