Anybody use one? Thinking of getting a 155r for a 300 blackout and 308. Doing a form 1 also of course.
- Thread starter jsthntn247
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They look interesting, but they'll end up costing just as much as a Form 4 can with a warranty. The only advantage I can see is the Form 1 wait time is WAY shorter. I might still give one a try someday...They are intriguing, I must admit.
I've been down this road and ended up with a armory den titanium can. It's pretty good and completely modular. I did it because form 1 is supposed to be so much faster, and for many it is.... it wasn't for me though. If I'd known I'd be waiting 10 months anyway, I'd absolutely not have done it and would have just gotten a Nomad Ti can. It's a lot better and lighter. It's not modular but that really doesnt matter, and the Nomad Ti is not a super long can anyway.
I'd advise you just get a Nomad Ti or whichever can you prefer honestly.
The one benefit is that you get to put the model and serial number wherever you choose on it, so you can then have the ability to do things to your can without needing a new stamp... I will leave it at that.
I'd advise you just get a Nomad Ti or whichever can you prefer honestly.
The one benefit is that you get to put the model and serial number wherever you choose on it, so you can then have the ability to do things to your can without needing a new stamp... I will leave it at that.
If you want maximum quietness for .300 BLK with subsonics, the Nomad-L or Nomad-LT is what Dead Air recommends. And my personal experience can back that up, as well. My 16" .300 BLK with 220 subs and my Nomad-LT you only hear the action cycling and action noises. It's ridiculous. It's literally "hollywood quiet".
If you're interested, here's a short video comparing my Sandman-S MIL-Contract vs. my Nomad-LT.
If you're interested, here's a short video comparing my Sandman-S MIL-Contract vs. my Nomad-LT.
I've got a 155LT PCK (which uses radial baffles made from aluminum) to which I've added a extra stainless blast baffle, but haven't yet had a chance to try it out on anything but a 9mm handgun. With a nominal 1/2" bore (~0.496" per my gage pins) and single clips (0.250" wide/deep), it's a bit sharp on the first round of 9mm subs from a pistol but then is decently quiet afterwards. I'm considering switching out the Liberty linear decoupler for a SilencerCo one that will sit recessed into the blast chamber, which will both shorten the assembly and hopefully quiet down the FRP.
Haven't yet had a chance to try it on my 300 AAC SBR bolt gun, and I don't intend to use it on supersonic rifle rounds.
Pros:
- Build quality is quite nice
- Modularity makes it easy to configure for multiple needs.
- Main body has 1.375x24 and accepts ASR stuff without adapters.
- Adapters are available for other common thread patterns (1.180x24, 1.187x28, 1.125x28)
- Drill jig worked very well on aluminum baffles and eventually got through the single stainless one
- Form 1s are mostly approved quickly at this moment (as long as you don't pick your own goofy model name and get sent to Research Pending purgatory)
Cons:
- Not cheap (especially once extra parts and accessories like a drill jig and wrench are added). It's not hard to spend $700-800, and that's before giving Uncle Sam his $200 cut of the action.
- Not particularly light with the addition of a single stainless baffle and a linear decoupler for pistol use
- Not yet convinced that the threads will stay clean with extended use
- If you go with stainless conical baffles, best to skip the drill jig and use a lathe w/ carbide tooling (same is probably true for Ti)
- Blast chamber seems excessively large for subsonic/low-pressure rounds, although it's probably pretty good for supersonic rifle stuff
- Can't currently get certain combinations of features and material (ex.: titanium radial baffles), or build a custom config (ex.: the HD steel tube with Ti or Al baffles)
- Aluminum kits don't include a SS or Ti blast baffle, so that's an extra cost
- No jig available for clipping, so either have a mill, make a jig with your 3D printer, or be really good with a rotary tool (I used my mill and was careful to keep the clips indexed so they would align properly)
Would I buy one again? Eh, not sure. I did this F1 build and a modular Quell-Tech 22 suppressor because I thought it would be cool to configure the cans for different purposes, but the reality is that I typically leave them in their longest config to achieve maximum performance.
Haven't yet had a chance to try it on my 300 AAC SBR bolt gun, and I don't intend to use it on supersonic rifle rounds.
Pros:
- Build quality is quite nice
- Modularity makes it easy to configure for multiple needs.
- Main body has 1.375x24 and accepts ASR stuff without adapters.
- Adapters are available for other common thread patterns (1.180x24, 1.187x28, 1.125x28)
- Drill jig worked very well on aluminum baffles and eventually got through the single stainless one
- Form 1s are mostly approved quickly at this moment (as long as you don't pick your own goofy model name and get sent to Research Pending purgatory)
Cons:
- Not cheap (especially once extra parts and accessories like a drill jig and wrench are added). It's not hard to spend $700-800, and that's before giving Uncle Sam his $200 cut of the action.
- Not particularly light with the addition of a single stainless baffle and a linear decoupler for pistol use
- Not yet convinced that the threads will stay clean with extended use
- If you go with stainless conical baffles, best to skip the drill jig and use a lathe w/ carbide tooling (same is probably true for Ti)
- Blast chamber seems excessively large for subsonic/low-pressure rounds, although it's probably pretty good for supersonic rifle stuff
- Can't currently get certain combinations of features and material (ex.: titanium radial baffles), or build a custom config (ex.: the HD steel tube with Ti or Al baffles)
- Aluminum kits don't include a SS or Ti blast baffle, so that's an extra cost
- No jig available for clipping, so either have a mill, make a jig with your 3D printer, or be really good with a rotary tool (I used my mill and was careful to keep the clips indexed so they would align properly)
Would I buy one again? Eh, not sure. I did this F1 build and a modular Quell-Tech 22 suppressor because I thought it would be cool to configure the cans for different purposes, but the reality is that I typically leave them in their longest config to achieve maximum performance.
Clipping a modular assembly isn't all that hard:
1) Tighten the baffle stack
2) Scribe each baffle with a number or letter or hieroglyphics or whatever
3) If you're not clipping the blast baffle, pull it off and move it to the distal end of the stack.
4) Clamp the stack in the mill vise using only the last one or two baffles (depends on how you proceeded with step 3)
5) Clip the first baffle in the stack, and remove it
6) Repeat step 5 as necessary until all the baffles are clipped
7) Remove any baffles left in the mill vise
8) Reassemble baffles as marked in step 2
9) Stare down the bore and marvel at the aligned clips
10) Shoot the thing
The below photo shows this process at roughly the half-way point in a Quell-Tech Ti 22 assembly. This one got symmetrically clipped to test the efficacy of this method with a randomly assembled stack of unaligned clips, but that testing hasn't yet occurred.
1) Tighten the baffle stack
2) Scribe each baffle with a number or letter or hieroglyphics or whatever
3) If you're not clipping the blast baffle, pull it off and move it to the distal end of the stack.
4) Clamp the stack in the mill vise using only the last one or two baffles (depends on how you proceeded with step 3)
5) Clip the first baffle in the stack, and remove it
6) Repeat step 5 as necessary until all the baffles are clipped
7) Remove any baffles left in the mill vise
8) Reassemble baffles as marked in step 2
9) Stare down the bore and marvel at the aligned clips
10) Shoot the thing
The below photo shows this process at roughly the half-way point in a Quell-Tech Ti 22 assembly. This one got symmetrically clipped to test the efficacy of this method with a randomly assembled stack of unaligned clips, but that testing hasn't yet occurred.
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