Just getting started!

[Maveroid]

Hi guys,

I’m new to reloading and have currently have no experience other than what After lots of research, here’s the list I plan on buying. A few items I’ve already bought. I’m just wondering if there are items I’m missing or don’t need to get started. Also, what would be a good first reloading book?

Down the road I plan on upgrading scale first and getting a annealer. I like the buy once, cry one saying. That being said, if my money would be better off up front on something please give me your opinions.

Thanks for any input!

Nick

 

[txguero]

I would add a headspace comparator. And unless I missed it or you already have one, a digital micrometer.

 

[Maveroid]

I would add a headspace comparator. And unless I missed it or you already have one, a digital micrometer.

I do have some mitutoya dial calipers but looks like digital set would also be a much better idea for this. I’ve added a them to my list along with a Hornady comparator set. Thanks for the help!

 

[High Desert duck]

On calipers I use a set of mitutoya dual calipers. I’d save your money and stick with them until you decide you need the digital.
I think getting the powder measure stand shouldbe more of a need than a want. it will help set up a smooth workflow.
If you’re going to use the type S dies don’t forget to get the proper bushing.
looks like you didn’t list lube either. If you’re just starting out / low volume I’d recommend they hornady unique, or imperial sizing wax.
mid you’re going stainless steel cleaning I’d highly suggest a media separator, and maybe a dryer.
the co-ax is supposed to be great, and no problem buying once and crying once, but a lot of precision rounds have been smashed together on rock crushers, and Redding’s.
The turning stuff is super optional, especially if your looking at PRS style shooting. It’s a lot of work for very low return until you start having custom chambers with the right necks etc. also it will start to make you sad when you lose the carefully manicured brass down a snake hole, or in the grass.
Last thing, looks like a pretty high quality list of equipment there. Don’t go cheap and buy cheap brass. Stick with any of the high end manufacturers.
Oh and for a book I started out with the Lyman reloading Manual. It has a good basic step by step before the data.
Remember if you’re brand new to this go slow and stay simple get fancy as you master the basics. And replace your equipment when it is slowing you down.

 

[Maveroid]

Ok I added imperial sizing wax, Lyman reloading manual, and powder measure stand.
I have the neck turning stuff as a want not need atm and added the digital mic as a want also.
Can you provide a link to the bushing I’ll need for the die? I was assuming the die set cane with them.
As for the media separator, the tumbler I bought has that built in I think. It’s the Frankfort arsenal premium tumbler. Correct me if I’m wrong please.
Im overseas atm and just going to buy a few pieces every month until I have it all. To start out I’ll be reloading 7mm mag and 6.5CM. The 7mm I already have around 400pc of Hornady brass for and the 6.5 I plan to buy two cases of prime ammo and shoot. Then I have Peterson brass to reuse.

Thanks!

 

[High Desert duck]

Can you provide a link to the bushing I’ll need for the die? I was assuming the die set cane with them.

Bushing

That is for the steel. If you’re doing low volume hand lubing each case it will be fine. If your going to start doing higher volume or like being lazy with your lube the TiN will hold up much better. Expensive bushing The link also has instructions on how to pick a bushing. On average most people stick with .002 under the diameter of a load round’s neck.
when using the type s people generally use it in three ways.
1. to work the neck less, use the expander ball to set neck tension
2. To remove the expander ball and set neck tension with the bushing works good unless the necks are getting really dinged up. Also can play with the neck tension to see how it affects your groups very easily.
3. Work the neck less remove the expander ball and use a mandrel to set neck tension. ( this is how I do it) this also requires another step and additional equipment
I would start with 1 since you are new to reloading and maybe use a .003 smaller bushing.

As for the media separator, the tumbler I bought has that built in I think. It’s the Frankfort arsenal premium tumbler. Correct me if I’m wrong please.

I use dry media so not I’m really familiar with the ins and outs of wet media. Maybe someone else can chime in on that.

you’ll also need a way to remove the lube. You can just use a rag bit it sounds like you plan on doing a lot of reloading (400cases) and that will become tedious. I use 15-30 minutes in a corn cob media after sizing.
and speaking of sizing a stuck case remover is nice to have on hand especially during your rookie season. Better to have and not need etc.

 

[Dthomas3523]

Ya, I’d hold off on the neck turner for now. Hand turning blows. I’d look into mandrels for setting neck tension first. That will help a lot and give similar results to turning.

I’d then save up and upgrade the scale first to something like an fx120 setup. That will be the biggest upgrade for lower ES numbers.

If you decide you want to jump into neck turning, you can save and upgrade to something like a 21st century lathe which will make it much more tolerable/enjoyable.

 

[Dthomas3523]

I don’t even use the stainless media anymore if I wet tumble. The point of cleaning is to get the brass clean enough to run properly in dies.

Anything else like super shiny brass is purely aesthetic.

 

[Steel head]

When your just starting simplicity is your friend.

 

[Maveroid]

@High Desert duck i really appreciate the help. The expensive one is only $10 more so I’ll just get that one. If I’m understanding correctly the bushing will be ordered .002-.003 smaller that the Dia. of the smallest case neck from the ammo I shoot? My question would then be how do I get loaded ammo to measure if I need the bushing to load them. I assume I’m missing something here. Thanks again!

 

[Dthomas3523]

@High Desert duck i really appreciate the help. The expensive one is only $10 more so I’ll just get that one. If I’m understanding correctly the bushing will be ordered .002-.003 smaller that the Dia. of the smallest case neck from the ammo I shoot? My question would then be how do I get loaded ammo to measure if I need the bushing to load them. I assume I’m missing something here. Thanks again!

Measure your neck wall thickness on brass. Multiply x2 and add bullet diameter.

Say your neck wall thickness is .013

.013 + .013 + .243 = .269 loaded.

You’ll get some spring back. So getting a .266 and .267 bushing to get .002 neck tension is a good start.

I’d personally get a .265, and use a .242 or .2415/.2425 mandrel to set the tension though.

 

[High Desert duck]

^^^^^ this @Maveroid
if it’s virgin brass you can just seat a bullet and measure. The lazy way to do it, won’t work with once fired, which sounds like your plan. It’s nice to have 2-3 bushings to tune the neck tension and deal with spring back as hardness changes, until you start annealing

 

[Maveroid]

The FX120 is what I plan to upgrade first after I get going.

My 7mm dies are Forster and I plan to send them in to get honed. Instead of dealing with bushings would I be better of to use Forster over the Redding type s in 6.5 if I’m going to end up setting neck tension with a mandrel anyway? Or are the Redding dies that much more superior because I can replace the bushings to whatever tension I want?

 

[High Desert duck]

The fx-120 is definitely worth it. Loads accurate and fast. I’d get that before an annealer
The foresters are great dies from what I understand, I haven’t used them but I don’t think you can go wrong with a custom honed die.
the advantages of the type S are the disadvantages of the Forster. The Forster will need to be adjusted or replaced if you change brand brass or perhaps even lot of brass. If you don’t anneal the brass hardness will change and you will not be able to make up the difference just by changing the bushing, same if the load does not like the tension the Forster is providing. Also IF you ever decide to play around with mild wildcatting, the Forster can’t help you there. I just recently went to 25 CM and all I changed was a bushing and a mandrel.

I do think you do get a better shoulder to neck junction with a non bushing die. On my 6.5 there was a barely noticeable swell at the base of the neck, on my .25 you can slightly feel it. Neither affect the performance of the loads.

I don’t thing one is better than the other just different

 

[Crabcore]

If I was going to modify that list, I would skip the Funnel kit, the Forster trimmer, the neck turner, and the neck reamer and get a Giraud trimmer. For PRS turning necks is pointless anyway.

As someone above mentioned, buying high quality brass will make everything turn out better. I buy 400 cases when I get a new barrel, and then figure on reloading them 5 or 6 times each for my 6.5x47. I do not anneal, or do anything other than use a Giraud to clean up the case mouths after SS tumbling my brass. I figure 2000 to 2500 rounds of barrel life, which should be roughly the same as for 6.5CM.

 

[Maveroid]

If I was going to modify that list, I would skip the Funnel kit, the Forster trimmer, the neck turner, and the neck reamer and get a Giraud trimmer. For PRS turning necks is pointless anyway.

Hi crab, thanks for the response. I can easily be talked out of the funnel kit. What’s a good funnel for 6.5 and 7mm that’s static proof? I could also switch to the giraud 3 way trimmer on a drill if thats a better option. I was looking at the Forster so I could use their 3in1 trimmer for case prepping and possibly neck turn down the road.

I don’t shoot PRS currently. Down the road will I? Who knows, only time will tell. Right now I just enjoy going out with a few friends and banging some steel. I’ve signed up for the waiting list on a range that’s out to 1250 yards. So if something helps such as neck turning at that distance I’m all for it. Again, thanks for the advice.

 

[Crabcore]

I use a cheap Lyman grey plastic funnel that cost about 5 dollars. I don't have static issues with it, at least once it gets a little powder run through it and gets coated with powder "dust".

 

[Maveroid]

I use a cheap Lyman grey plastic funnel that cost about 5 dollars. I don't have static issues with it, at least once it gets a little powder run through it and gets coated with powder "dust".

I removed the area 419 funnel kit and added a Lyman funnel kit. Looks to be very similar for about 1/4 the price. Thanks!

 

[Maveroid]

After the updates here’s the list. The Forster trimmer I’ve left on there for now. I like that I can case prep with the Forster 3 in 1 trimmer and turn necks down the road if I decide to go that route. The giraud trimmer is out of my price range starting out, maybe down the road! Is their 3way trimmer on a drill any better than the Forster? Looks similar without the possibility to neck turn down the road.

 

[want2learn]

just saw on optics planet they have the forster co-ax press listed for $354....they often advertise 10% off coupons...that would bring the price of the press down to $319...pretty close to the $300 you list for used. just a thought

 

[Maveroid]

just saw on optics planet they have the forster co-ax press listed for $354....they often advertise 10% off coupons...that would bring the price of the press down to $319...pretty close to the $300 you list for used. just a thought

Thanks! That’s a great idea, I’ll be checking it out.

 

[Maveroid]

just saw on optics planet they have the forster co-ax press listed for $354....they often advertise 10% off coupons...that would bring the price of the press down to $319...pretty close to the $300 you list for used. just a thought

Does that 10% come up on their website? Or where can I find this code?

 

[want2learn]

If you're on their email contact list they occasionally send out an email announcing a sale and code.

 

[Maveroid]

Great thanks!

 

[want2learn]

i believe they offer LE and Military discounts...you might want to call them on Monday and also confirm if the item you are looking for is truly in stock. They're pretty good to deal with but i do always confirm availability first.

 

[fmillik]

You seem to have some case prep gear missing for chamfering/primer pocket:etc.

I really like the Lyman Case Prep express for this sort of work.

Lyman Case Prep Xpress 115V 7810220, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TABTWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eiRREbWC1MY9B

I also use Lee Case Length gauges and a Lee Cutter to get case length to SAAMI spec in the Lyman Xpress.

Lee Precision Reloading Large 8-32 Threaded Cutter & Lock Stud Lee Precision Large 8-32 Threaded Cutter & Lock Stud, Silver, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PO88W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TkRREbF6W9P2Z

 

[Maveroid]

You seem to have some case prep gear missing for chamfering/primer pocket:etc.

I really like the Lyman Case Prep express for this sort of work.

Lyman Case Prep Xpress 115V 7810220, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TABTWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eiRREbWC1MY9B

I also use Lee Case Length gauges and a Lee Cutter to get case length to SAAMI spec in the Lyman Xpress.

Lee Precision Reloading Large 8-32 Threaded Cutter & Lock Stud Lee Precision Large 8-32 Threaded Cutter & Lock Stud, Silver, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PO88W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TkRREbF6W9P2Z

The Forster 3 in 1 trimmer chamfers and deburs in one cut. Only reason I was going to get the Forster was in case I decided to neck turn in the future, I have that option with the Forster trimmer. I was also thinking about getting giraud tri way trimmers and putting on a drill press. Problem is they don’t have a 6.5 CM version. So even if I got the giraud for 7mm mag (only other cal I’ll be loading for right away) I’d still have to buy something for the 6.5.

As far as primer pockets, I was going to grab a hand one, though I’ve heard the stainless media gets them pretty clean with no need to use a tool.

I’m starting to think about the Frankfurt arsenal platinum series instead of the Forster. I see it as a better option than the Lyman because you can trim, chamfer, and debur on the same machine.

I appreciate any thoughts you guys have on the subject. This has been the hardest area for me to decide what to buy. BTW I do have a RCBS trimmer someone gave me. So the Lyman could be a option I guess. I just thought I’d try to simplify the process as it seems to be the most tedious of the process.

 

[fmillik]

It is the most tedious. I have two primer cleaning attachments, chamfer, deburr, and the Lyman case gauge and cutter all on the Lyman xpress at the same time. I can do 2 cases simultaneously