Kentucky

[ArcticLight]

I almost had a Kentucky rifle kit today.
I've seen them online from $175 to $270 so I looked in craigslist and a guy was looking for jewelry.

he'd been watching too much barter K ings on TV though, my ring was $300 new, white gold and gold wrapped but nothing fancy.

But he thought he was getting an engagement ring.


Anyway so I'll keep looking, half the fun will be building it.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Re: Kentucky

I am in the process of doing one... (another of my too-many-hobbies) and after CVA and other kits, I went to a place called Track of the Wolf and found their kits. Another outfit called "The Rifle Company" also does amazing kits.

These parts sets/kits aren't your average stamped CVA kits. They are superb locks, accurate hardware, etc. Great blueprints. The gun you get out when you are done will be head and shoulders above most kits.

Mine is currently w. a riflesmith having the stock carving and patch-box engraving done. But I'll post some pictures when it gets back.

Of course to do your 'first' build, a CVA kit lets you experiment and get a nice shooter in little time and for little cost. But after you build it, and assuming you have fun, you will love the high end kits.

Oh and NMLRA is a great resource. Their magazines are full of tech info for kit builders.

I tried to send you a PM, but you are over your limit. Drop me a PM as I have a CVA pistol kit that I won at a Trappers dinner a couple of years ago. It's sitting on a shelf unbuilt, new in box. It's yours as a gift if you want it. Drop me some coordinates. Perfect first project.

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[ArcticLight]

Re: Kentucky

Email box now empty!

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Re: Kentucky

PM inbound...

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[ArcticLight]

Re: Kentucky

Thank you kind sir!

I have a learning curve but this is as vintage as vintage gets!

I've completely lost interest in modern day technology, I knew it would happen someday LOL

Question, I keep reading CVA - what is that?

 

[Just Jim]

Re: Kentucky

In my opinion, a kit can be more trouble than starting a scratch build.

You're stuck with the stock blank in the condition you receive it, and I've seen them pretty badly warped. Also, you can't put wood back on, and there may be areas where you'll want to make changes in style or shape.

I have one scratch built .36 flinter. I bought barrel, lock and triggers, and forged or cold formed all other parts. It's detailed and patient work, but it's not really difficult.

If you can, get the DVD version of Hershel House's "Building A Kentucky Rifle." Great video, and Hershel uses an interesting mix of new and old technology in his builds.

Cheers... Jim

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Re: Kentucky

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArcticLight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Question, I keep reading CVA - what is that?</div></div>

Connecticut Valley Arms. Makers of inexpensive kits. They are serviceable, and great to learn with because they come largely pre-inletted. You can throw one together in a few hours, or if you spend some real time, you can make a nice piece. And they are fun to shoot. Certainly the rifles are accurate enough, and the pistols make a satisfactory boom.

The CVA kits (and their low-end-of-the-market built-rifles) first came out in the '70s when a real black powder renaissance took place thanks to movies like Jeremiah Johnson raised interest in Hawkens and BP shooting.

As Jim mentiones above, the kits have their limitations. But 'starting' with scratch building takes a very special and talented individual. As with most art forms, some can do it. Some can learn it. I certainly had to learn the hard way a couple of times. My problem is that I can do great metalwork, but I lack the talent to shape a stock. Inletting, fine. Finishing, fine. Shaping and carving, I just don't have an eye for the compound curves. So I use kits and assistance from professionals on shaping and engraving.

After my current project is done (a .32 in the style of Jacob Dickert, with German-Silver furniture), I may try a scratch-built miniature (1/3rd scale). Those just fascinate me...

If you really want to get inspired on these early rifles, see is you can find a copy of "Thoughts on the Kentucky Rifle in its Golden Age" book. The hardcopy is stupid expensive but there is a softcover that is affordable. The pictures are amazing. And read about Morgans Riflemen from the Revolutionary war battles of Saratoga, etc!

Cheers and watch your mail!

Sirhir

 

[ArcticLight]

Re: Kentucky

I'm reading what I can when I can - but there are some high end kits out there upwards of $500-$1000 that are gorgeous, of course + $125 for high quality wood etc so it'll be more like $1200.


Question: Do you guys prefer Flintlock/Percussion and Rifled/smooth ????

 

[rkaires]

Re: Kentucky

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArcticLight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm reading what I can when I can - but there are some high end kits out there upwards of $500-$1000 that are gorgeous, of course + $125 for high quality wood etc so it'll be more like $1200.


Question: Do you guys prefer Flintlock/Percussion and Rifled/smooth ????

</div></div>

http://www.flintlocks.com/

 

[ArcticLight]

Re: Kentucky

There's actually another company out there wtih a kit that's a step up from Jim's kits although his are nice.

I plan on going through his FAQ's tonight.

So far my choice will be rifled, 50 cal, percussion.

 

[ArcticLight]

Re: Kentucky

My gunsmith said this is the defacto standard here:

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/index.aspx

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Re: Kentucky

The Track of the Wolf kits are among the best of the high end kits. And "The Rifle Shoppe." TRS make some really off the wall stuff, too. But great kits. The TOTW kits have superb inletting and their stocks will be very well done.

For a first build, IMHO go percussion. Just because you will enjoy shooting it more... to start. And it's much easier to clean and more reliable. But after you shoot a percussion for a while, you will want to try flintlock!

A FANTASTIC first 'high-end' kit is the Track of the Wolf Half Stock Hawken. Top grade wood is worth the upgrade. .54 barrel gets you a lighter rifle (less metal than a .50 or .45). But second choice would be a .50. It has very simple lines. Chunky, if anything. But a simple build because the stock shaping of a heavy plains rifle is much more elementary than a graceful longrifle. And less hardware, patch box inletting, etc. Once you can do a Hawken, you will have no trouble tackling the longrifle.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/327/1/PLAN-HAWKEN

The art of getting the proportions right on a true Longrifle (Pennsylvania or Kentucky) is unreal. The difference between an OK job and a piece of art is often just a few passes of a chisel...

Below is the gunsmith who helps me with my projects and kits. Ex Navy Nuc boat guy who built his first gun in the submarine machine shop. I wonder if you could build a gun in the machine shop of your sub today while on deployment???

http://blackhartlongarms.com/

Take a look at his gallery. His shop is great. Basically a basement that is like an old log cabin. You go in there and it could be 1812... Don't be afraid (esp. with the high end kits) to ask for help. There will be riflesmiths/builders in your area and they almost universally work with people starting out to help them learn the art. The nice thing about the good kits is that done right, they end up being far more than the sum of the parts. CVA and others, not so much.

Cheers,

Sirhr