Kisssofdeath's Tikka T1x controlled round feeding video

[Kisssofdeath]

I have been wanting to do this for awhile now just to show how the Tikka T1x can have controlled round feeding and 99.99% reliable ejection if a person needs/wants it. Feel free to comment here or on BitChute about the video itself or the content. I realize the video isn't perfect and I made a few nomenclature mistakes but I corrected them I believe. There was a couple of things I left out that would have been helpful. The video was made with my cell phone and wasn't edited. It was my third attempt at the video.

Hopefully this will help someone if they are having issues. I may do other videos, short videos to show how other designs feed.

Video

 

[dhom]

Video won't play for me.

 

[545riflefan]

Same. Getting an error at the link. I’m really interested in seeing this video as I’m having about a 10% FTE and maybe a 1-2 % FTFeed

 

[Mr. Wolf]

The link appears to be broken. I have a renewed interest in potentially purchasing the Tikka for a youth NRL 22 trainer.
Thanks in advance and happy shooting.

 

[Just Chuck]

Error message....

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Should be working now. The video was still "unpublished". Should be good to go.

 

[Just Chuck]

Video is functional now.

I had FTF problems and sent back to Beretta - what a waste of time. My rounds seemed to be scraping the sharp edges of the breech and scoring the lead bullet. I broke the edges with a jeweler's file and have fixed my issue.

 

[*rim-star*]

Good job on the video, very imformative.

 

[DRACO]

Thanks for the time and effort. Would it be possible to explain the procedures needed to modify the spring?

 

[Mudmarine]

I had FTF problems and sent back to Beretta - what a waste of time. My rounds seemed to be scraping the sharp edges of the breech and scoring the lead bullet. I broke the edges with a jeweler's file and have fixed my issue.

The OP’s chamber appears to be shaving lead too.

Nice video. Agree that in order to be a good instructional video you need to have a “before and after” demonstration and maybe a quick “back of the napkin” drawing of the ejector wire modification.

I like the idea of the T1x. I currently shoot a restocked marlin xt22 factory bull barrel and it runs 100 percent and shoots tiny groups at 50 yards when its in a rest with sk or lapua.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

KOD-
Thank you for the video. Good info and appreciate the close ups of the bullets.

After the mod which resulted in improvement in feeding and decreased bullet scarring, did you notice a change in accuracy?

Appreciate the shared knowledge, happy shooting.

 

[Near miss]

I'd like to add that sanding the extractor corner soft from the magazine side (the side downwards that touches the case first) lets the cartridge to feed even smoother!

It does not affect the performance of the extractor, as the hook holding the case is in the upper part of the extractor only.

Giving advice what to do is quite hard. I would recommend you to just take out the bolt and slide a round or a case under the extractor. And feel out where pressure/friction is highest. The pressure build should logically thinking, be quite well distributed along the movement.

The feeding improvement of this mod is two-fold.
1. Less resistance for the cartridge to ascend upwards onto the bolt face to feed horizontally.

2. Because the ascend is easier onto the bolt face the chance that the bullet needs to touch inside the chamber to straighten out horizontally to enter the chamber is minimized / removed.

Here is a picture to illustrate:

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Near miss, that's a great idea.

 

[Dewil]

Very interesting mod! Im sometimes having FTF with the first round of the mag and this might help. I havent tried removing the ejector spring so I dont know if its "flat" or 3d. If its flat it would be great to put it next to a ruler or something and put it in a xerox-machine and put that pic here as a blueprint!
Good work!

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Thanks Dewill. I have actually thought about doing that but once I got mine working like it is I really didn't want to take it back out.

Pretty sure if you removed the wire it would lay flat on a surface. Having bends length wise would not be advantageous. If bent in either direction I believe it would make the bolt hard to close.

 

[Dewil]

Totally ignoring the saying "if it aint broken don´t try to fix it" I just had to pull the things apart and tinker. I did some gentle filing on the extractor as per Near miss suggestion.
I removed the plastic part holding the magazine (same part housing the ejector spring) to get a better look. The spring is "3d" bent but a piece of cake to remove and gently bend in to shape. (should not be hard to bend back to original shape if not happy with mod)

Just trying in the garage it seems to feed and eject just fine and looking at the bullets there are no real sign of contact against the breach. Hope this might eradicate the occasional FTF and perhaps even improve the already stellar performance of the Tikka.
Did i take any photos of the process? Of course not!=)

Can I take some photos upon request? Of course!

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Well, you know the saying, photos or it didn't happen. I'm formally requesting photos.

 

[Near miss]

I do my changes to guns with fine grit wet sandpaper, I use it dry or with ballistol / motor oil depending on job at hand.

I also usually grind two sand paper slices against each other before the process to further fine their grit.

The end product is a very well polished surface.

I have a picture of the piece I polished my P10 C trigger with. (The bluing process had left the surface a bit rough and I did not even contact the steel itself)

But polishing things will make a definitive edge to performance, after working on the bolt (and barrel 6 o'clock) I cannot feel the feeding of the cartridge to make any difference to bolt use.

 

[Dewil]

Okay here are a couple of pics!
The magazine well comes out with one allen bolt, then you can see how the ejector spring is fitted.

Just taking the spring out, holding on with a pair of needle nose pliers and opening the spring up a bit, then put a kink in it to get it to turn back. Put it back, screw in the bolt and job done.

Looking down the well this is what my spring looks like!