What do you guys use to sharpen your blades? I have sent a few to Steve Woods and he does a heck of a job just wondering how i can get the same result at home? Any one use a electric sharpener or just the old school stone and oil idea? Mainly have a few folders and a good collection of woods fix blades and other fix blade stuff.
- Thread starter wkahler
- Start date
Re: Knife Sharpening
A co-worker of mine had a Wicked Edge setup that he used to sharpen my knives, he got them super sharp. I'll probably pick one up shortly.
A co-worker of mine had a Wicked Edge setup that he used to sharpen my knives, he got them super sharp. I'll probably pick one up shortly.
Re: Knife Sharpening
Natural stone is still king in my experience, but they can be insanely expensive.
Shapton makes a killer set of "GlassStone Waterstones" that are really effective.
Natural stone is still king in my experience, but they can be insanely expensive.
Shapton makes a killer set of "GlassStone Waterstones" that are really effective.
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CrazyDonkey</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A co-worker of mine had a Wicked Edge setup that he used to sharpen my knives, he got them super sharp. I'll probably pick one up shortly.</div></div>
Those Wicked Edge kits look badass, they make sense to me how they work too. I've considered them, but having a hard time coming off the $250 for a basic kit knife sharpener.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzL41ygQG0o
http://wickededgeusa.com/
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CrazyDonkey</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A co-worker of mine had a Wicked Edge setup that he used to sharpen my knives, he got them super sharp. I'll probably pick one up shortly.</div></div>
Those Wicked Edge kits look badass, they make sense to me how they work too. I've considered them, but having a hard time coming off the $250 for a basic kit knife sharpener.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzL41ygQG0o
http://wickededgeusa.com/
Re: Knife Sharpening
arkansas wetstones. Learn to use stones and you wont have to rely on a big heavy clumsy "system"
arkansas wetstones. Learn to use stones and you wont have to rely on a big heavy clumsy "system"
Re: Knife Sharpening
So sounds like i need to get stoned or go home LOL!! Well i guess its time to start learning! I will hit the internet for a few things and any suggestions are good on a good set of stones and stuff!!
So sounds like i need to get stoned or go home LOL!! Well i guess its time to start learning! I will hit the internet for a few things and any suggestions are good on a good set of stones and stuff!!
Re: Knife Sharpening
If I need something sharpened ral good, I'll take it a few doors down to K. Breed. If you know tactical knives and tactical custom from anyone in *th Group, then you know who I am talking about
If I need something sharpened ral good, I'll take it a few doors down to K. Breed. If you know tactical knives and tactical custom from anyone in *th Group, then you know who I am talking about
Re: Knife Sharpening
I must be on the outside looking in on this one LOL!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Switchblade</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I need something sharpened ral good, I'll take it a few doors down to K. Breed. If you know tactical knives and tactical custom from anyone in *th Group, then you know who I am talking about </div></div>
I must be on the outside looking in on this one LOL!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Switchblade</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I need something sharpened ral good, I'll take it a few doors down to K. Breed. If you know tactical knives and tactical custom from anyone in *th Group, then you know who I am talking about </div></div>
Re: Knife Sharpening
I love my lansky system. I use it while watching TV and can shave when I'm done.
I love my lansky system. I use it while watching TV and can shave when I'm done.
Re: Knife Sharpening
Soft and hard Arkansas stones. I was taught by my uncles, how to properly use a stone and it has served me well for many years. I have thought about becoming lazy and getting a fancy setup but probably never will.
I do have a diamond hone for these cheap stainless steels, but it is still all manual.
Soft and hard Arkansas stones. I was taught by my uncles, how to properly use a stone and it has served me well for many years. I have thought about becoming lazy and getting a fancy setup but probably never will.
I do have a diamond hone for these cheap stainless steels, but it is still all manual.
Re: Knife Sharpening
This guy knows a lot about sharp knives.
http://www.cartercutlery.com/japanese-knives/premium-natural-waterstones
This guy knows a lot about sharp knives.
http://www.cartercutlery.com/japanese-knives/premium-natural-waterstones
Re: Knife Sharpening
Lansky [at home] with a ceramic, or piece of crockery to remove the final edge burr.
DMT duo-fold in the field, well that, & or the bottom side of a coffee mug.
Lansky [at home] with a ceramic, or piece of crockery to remove the final edge burr.
DMT duo-fold in the field, well that, & or the bottom side of a coffee mug.
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sumpter Steve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This guy knows a lot about sharp knives.
http://www.cartercutlery.com/japanese-knives/premium-natural-waterstones </div></div>
Murray entered a sharpest knife contest a while ago that invited the best knife makers in North America. Most of the top contenders dropped out when they found out he was entering. His knife was reported to be notably sharper than the next best entry which you can be sure was fuking sharp.
The best system for mere mortals is the Wicked Edge. The Edge pro is also good, but has a much longer learning curve and the kit as you order it is incomplete in its abilities to deal with different stone thicknesses.
Everything else is wasted money IMHO.
Ceramic systems such as the Spyderco Sharpmaker are intended to maintain an edge not recreate them as is required over time or from hard use.
Sharpening by hand gets very difficult with some of the super tough steels available these days. It can be done, but it is a learned skill that takes time. The better stones are also more expensive than the Wicked Edge system complete.
Good luck!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sumpter Steve</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This guy knows a lot about sharp knives.
http://www.cartercutlery.com/japanese-knives/premium-natural-waterstones </div></div>
Murray entered a sharpest knife contest a while ago that invited the best knife makers in North America. Most of the top contenders dropped out when they found out he was entering. His knife was reported to be notably sharper than the next best entry which you can be sure was fuking sharp.
The best system for mere mortals is the Wicked Edge. The Edge pro is also good, but has a much longer learning curve and the kit as you order it is incomplete in its abilities to deal with different stone thicknesses.
Everything else is wasted money IMHO.
Ceramic systems such as the Spyderco Sharpmaker are intended to maintain an edge not recreate them as is required over time or from hard use.
Sharpening by hand gets very difficult with some of the super tough steels available these days. It can be done, but it is a learned skill that takes time. The better stones are also more expensive than the Wicked Edge system complete.
Good luck!
Re: Knife Sharpening
I just checked out the wicked edge system. Nice system but WOW, a little on the high side. It is very similar to the Lansky but you can work both sides at the same time and probably with more precision and less labor. I would like to see one in person before I shelled out the dough...
I just checked out the wicked edge system. Nice system but WOW, a little on the high side. It is very similar to the Lansky but you can work both sides at the same time and probably with more precision and less labor. I would like to see one in person before I shelled out the dough...
Re: Knife Sharpening
I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. While there are certainly people that can get a knife sharp the old fashioned way and results are what we're all after, no person is so robotic that they are making the same stroke across the stone at the exact same angle every time or on each side. What I imagine is resulting in a sharp knife is a convex edge on either side of the blade that meets at a point. Perfectly even strokes are what is going to make a knife sharp, these mechanical sharpeners are designed around that premise and seem to do a good job of it. I'm thinking I've talked myself into getting a wicked edge! hahaha!
I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. While there are certainly people that can get a knife sharp the old fashioned way and results are what we're all after, no person is so robotic that they are making the same stroke across the stone at the exact same angle every time or on each side. What I imagine is resulting in a sharp knife is a convex edge on either side of the blade that meets at a point. Perfectly even strokes are what is going to make a knife sharp, these mechanical sharpeners are designed around that premise and seem to do a good job of it. I'm thinking I've talked myself into getting a wicked edge! hahaha!
Re: Knife Sharpening
have to tell you, I bought the Wicked Edge system when it was about 75 bucks cheaper. Loved it so much my twin brother got one for christmas ... so I could get mine back. It does work great, a little more labor for the initial edge set but after that, quick, repeatable and like they say, Wicked sharp. no hair on either arm when done testing knives. Kyle.
have to tell you, I bought the Wicked Edge system when it was about 75 bucks cheaper. Loved it so much my twin brother got one for christmas ... so I could get mine back. It does work great, a little more labor for the initial edge set but after that, quick, repeatable and like they say, Wicked sharp. no hair on either arm when done testing knives. Kyle.
Re: Knife Sharpening
The Convex method has been working well for me for a few years now. I am the go-to person for most of my friends' knives.
I finally picked up a Kalamazoo belt sander last year, which is a great tool.
The Convex method has been working well for me for a few years now. I am the go-to person for most of my friends' knives.
I finally picked up a Kalamazoo belt sander last year, which is a great tool.
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bryan27</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. While there are certainly people that can get a knife sharp the old fashioned way and results are what we're all after, no person is so robotic that they are making the same stroke across the stone at the exact same angle every time or on each side. What I imagine is resulting in a sharp knife is a convex edge on either side of the blade that meets at a point. Perfectly even strokes are what is going to make a knife sharp, these mechanical sharpeners are designed around that premise and seem to do a good job of it. I'm thinking I've talked myself into getting a wicked edge! hahaha! </div></div>
You don't have to make a living sharpening knives to master the correct angle. If the edge is slightly convex it is less likely to develope the wire edge and will stay sharper a bit longer. A slightly convex edge is a bit stronger than the rapier fine tapering edge. This is one reason I feel a properly free handed stone honed edge to be superior to a machine edge. The reason you strop an edge is to break off the wire edge and you should end up with a microscopically convex edge, this is the goal. A kitchen knife is entirely different. If you want to cut tomatos then leave that wire edge. Matter of fact i bet those gadgets are great for sharpening kitchen knives
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bryan27</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. While there are certainly people that can get a knife sharp the old fashioned way and results are what we're all after, no person is so robotic that they are making the same stroke across the stone at the exact same angle every time or on each side. What I imagine is resulting in a sharp knife is a convex edge on either side of the blade that meets at a point. Perfectly even strokes are what is going to make a knife sharp, these mechanical sharpeners are designed around that premise and seem to do a good job of it. I'm thinking I've talked myself into getting a wicked edge! hahaha! </div></div>
You don't have to make a living sharpening knives to master the correct angle. If the edge is slightly convex it is less likely to develope the wire edge and will stay sharper a bit longer. A slightly convex edge is a bit stronger than the rapier fine tapering edge. This is one reason I feel a properly free handed stone honed edge to be superior to a machine edge. The reason you strop an edge is to break off the wire edge and you should end up with a microscopically convex edge, this is the goal. A kitchen knife is entirely different. If you want to cut tomatos then leave that wire edge. Matter of fact i bet those gadgets are great for sharpening kitchen knives
Re: Knife Sharpening
that wicked edge system is "wicked" but expensive
that wicked edge system is "wicked" but expensive
Re: Knife Sharpening
2 part issue. use good stones correctly and buy proper steel knives that arent so super alloy they cant be easily worked.
2 part issue. use good stones correctly and buy proper steel knives that arent so super alloy they cant be easily worked.
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: armorpl8chikn</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bryan27</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. While there are certainly people that can get a knife sharp the old fashioned way and results are what we're all after, no person is so robotic that they are making the same stroke across the stone at the exact same angle every time or on each side. What I imagine is resulting in a sharp knife is a convex edge on either side of the blade that meets at a point. Perfectly even strokes are what is going to make a knife sharp, these mechanical sharpeners are designed around that premise and seem to do a good job of it. I'm thinking I've talked myself into getting a wicked edge! hahaha! </div></div>
You don't have to make a living sharpening knives to master the correct angle. If the edge is slightly convex it is less likely to develope the wire edge and will stay sharper a bit longer. A slightly convex edge is a bit stronger than the rapier fine tapering edge. This is one reason I feel a properly free handed stone honed edge to be superior to a machine edge. The reason you strop an edge is to break off the wire edge and you should end up with a microscopically convex edge, this is the goal. A kitchen knife is entirely different. If you want to cut tomatos then leave that wire edge. Matter of fact i bet those gadgets are great for sharpening kitchen knives </div></div>
You don't necessarily have to leave the wire edge on with the wicked edge, they make strops for it as well. I'd theorize that a finely honed yet slightly convex, hand honed edge, would be slightly less sharp than an equally well honed yet straight edge that comes with a machine based sharpener. A convex edge would likely be "tougher", but that would be more a function of carrying more width of the metal closer to the edge than a straight line. I wouldn't mind so much having a convex edge, but even with practice I don't get them as sharp as I'd like to because of inconsistant angle in each stroke as well as inconsistant angle along the length of the edge. For me, it's not really a skill worth perfecting when there's something out there that already does it perfect. I can get "good enough" results freehand, but there's certainly a difference between what I can do and what a precision sharpener can do.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: armorpl8chikn</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bryan27</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. While there are certainly people that can get a knife sharp the old fashioned way and results are what we're all after, no person is so robotic that they are making the same stroke across the stone at the exact same angle every time or on each side. What I imagine is resulting in a sharp knife is a convex edge on either side of the blade that meets at a point. Perfectly even strokes are what is going to make a knife sharp, these mechanical sharpeners are designed around that premise and seem to do a good job of it. I'm thinking I've talked myself into getting a wicked edge! hahaha! </div></div>
You don't have to make a living sharpening knives to master the correct angle. If the edge is slightly convex it is less likely to develope the wire edge and will stay sharper a bit longer. A slightly convex edge is a bit stronger than the rapier fine tapering edge. This is one reason I feel a properly free handed stone honed edge to be superior to a machine edge. The reason you strop an edge is to break off the wire edge and you should end up with a microscopically convex edge, this is the goal. A kitchen knife is entirely different. If you want to cut tomatos then leave that wire edge. Matter of fact i bet those gadgets are great for sharpening kitchen knives
You don't necessarily have to leave the wire edge on with the wicked edge, they make strops for it as well. I'd theorize that a finely honed yet slightly convex, hand honed edge, would be slightly less sharp than an equally well honed yet straight edge that comes with a machine based sharpener. A convex edge would likely be "tougher", but that would be more a function of carrying more width of the metal closer to the edge than a straight line. I wouldn't mind so much having a convex edge, but even with practice I don't get them as sharp as I'd like to because of inconsistant angle in each stroke as well as inconsistant angle along the length of the edge. For me, it's not really a skill worth perfecting when there's something out there that already does it perfect. I can get "good enough" results freehand, but there's certainly a difference between what I can do and what a precision sharpener can do.
Re: Knife Sharpening
I go to SEarsHardware and get a 8 inch Silicon Carbide sharpening stone, medium/Heavy grit is how they come, and use the medium side and pass very lightly. It will actually sharpen stainless, which softer natural stones won't. I have some nice knives I don't use for anthing, but when using knives I get less expensive stainless ones or older/used carbon steal ones like CAse, PAL, or other well known vintage lines.
It is not uncommon to dull a knife while using it, even when dressing and skinning a deer or bear. Then I take the leather belt off, hold it tight under my shoe wih my hand and strop it on the back side of the belt to straighten out the edge.
Expensive knives are great to look at, but a working knife is just that. For $10 or 15 bucks i can get a stainless knife at Dick's or someplace and they are very sharp, and practically disposable.
I go to SEarsHardware and get a 8 inch Silicon Carbide sharpening stone, medium/Heavy grit is how they come, and use the medium side and pass very lightly. It will actually sharpen stainless, which softer natural stones won't. I have some nice knives I don't use for anthing, but when using knives I get less expensive stainless ones or older/used carbon steal ones like CAse, PAL, or other well known vintage lines.
It is not uncommon to dull a knife while using it, even when dressing and skinning a deer or bear. Then I take the leather belt off, hold it tight under my shoe wih my hand and strop it on the back side of the belt to straighten out the edge.
Expensive knives are great to look at, but a working knife is just that. For $10 or 15 bucks i can get a stainless knife at Dick's or someplace and they are very sharp, and practically disposable.
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. </div></div>
Never doubt someone's capabilities just because they have evaded you.
My grandfather wasn't a knife maker, but shaved with a straight razor everyday till he died. I loved watching him sharpen it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. </div></div>
Never doubt someone's capabilities just because they have evaded you.
My grandfather wasn't a knife maker, but shaved with a straight razor everyday till he died. I loved watching him sharpen it.
Re: Knife Sharpening
Bryan I can see your point and I may eventually have to find something beyond free hand, as arthritis makes hand honing a knife more difficult for me every year.
Most people will never practice to the degree I did because they do not hav ethe need to sharpen a knife so much. I sharpened a knife almost every day during the winter from the time I was old enough to set a few traps and tote a firearm. Between the trapline and hunting and hanging out on weekends at my uncles fur barn I have skinned hundreds of animals from whitetails to weasels. I never found a need to use anything beyond a Case or Old Timer Muskrat knife for any animal I ever skinned. I never had a problem keeping it sharp enough to shave with a stone, and my belt for a strop. When you master a skill then you own it and no one can take it from you.
Bryan I can see your point and I may eventually have to find something beyond free hand, as arthritis makes hand honing a knife more difficult for me every year.
Most people will never practice to the degree I did because they do not hav ethe need to sharpen a knife so much. I sharpened a knife almost every day during the winter from the time I was old enough to set a few traps and tote a firearm. Between the trapline and hunting and hanging out on weekends at my uncles fur barn I have skinned hundreds of animals from whitetails to weasels. I never found a need to use anything beyond a Case or Old Timer Muskrat knife for any animal I ever skinned. I never had a problem keeping it sharp enough to shave with a stone, and my belt for a strop. When you master a skill then you own it and no one can take it from you.
Re: Knife Sharpening
Sharp is a relative term, with the Wicked Edge you get a finest edge possible with a minimal investment in the skillset.
Go to 2:55 or so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH6c4GnR9...JZ85O_ihdabhYq6
There is sharp and then there is hair whittling or toilet paper push cutting sharp. Google both for a reference.
Shaving sharp is for beginners.
You can get the same quality hand sharpening, but you will spend more than the Wicked Edge on quality stones. My last 10,000 grit Chosera was a bit over $300.00....How sharp do you want??
Sharp is a relative term, with the Wicked Edge you get a finest edge possible with a minimal investment in the skillset.
Go to 2:55 or so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH6c4GnR9...JZ85O_ihdabhYq6
There is sharp and then there is hair whittling or toilet paper push cutting sharp. Google both for a reference.
Shaving sharp is for beginners.
You can get the same quality hand sharpening, but you will spend more than the Wicked Edge on quality stones. My last 10,000 grit Chosera was a bit over $300.00....How sharp do you want??
Re: Knife Sharpening
I choose to cut phone books on the weekends LOL!!! I had to say it but i am going to have to do some real work on working on my skill level. I totally understand the difference between the stone idea and the mechanical idea. Just seems like the easy way always draws me in when doing research LOL!!
I choose to cut phone books on the weekends LOL!!! I had to say it but i am going to have to do some real work on working on my skill level. I totally understand the difference between the stone idea and the mechanical idea. Just seems like the easy way always draws me in when doing research LOL!!
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: X-fan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sharp is a relative term, with the Wicked Edge you get a finest edge possible with a minimal investment in the skillset.
Go to 2:55 or so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH6c4GnR9...JZ85O_ihdabhYq6
There is sharp and then there is hair whittling or toilet paper push cutting sharp. Google both for a reference.
Shaving sharp is for beginners.
<span style="color: #FF0000">And exactly how will a muskrat skin or a man's jugular tell the difference between shaving sharp and toilet paper push cutting ..whatever the hell that proves? Anything past shaving sharp is a great excercise in entertaining the uneducated. Use what you want I don't give a shit.</span>
You can get the same quality hand sharpening, but you will spend more than the Wicked Edge on quality stones. My last 10,000 grit Chosera was a bit over $300.00....How sharp do you want??
</div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: X-fan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sharp is a relative term, with the Wicked Edge you get a finest edge possible with a minimal investment in the skillset.
Go to 2:55 or so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH6c4GnR9...JZ85O_ihdabhYq6
There is sharp and then there is hair whittling or toilet paper push cutting sharp. Google both for a reference.
Shaving sharp is for beginners.
<span style="color: #FF0000">And exactly how will a muskrat skin or a man's jugular tell the difference between shaving sharp and toilet paper push cutting ..whatever the hell that proves? Anything past shaving sharp is a great excercise in entertaining the uneducated. Use what you want I don't give a shit.</span>
You can get the same quality hand sharpening, but you will spend more than the Wicked Edge on quality stones. My last 10,000 grit Chosera was a bit over $300.00....How sharp do you want??
</div></div>
Re: Knife Sharpening
I shave with straight razors every morning... I know sharp.... What people forget is their is such thing as "working" sharp. You take a knife that is as sharp as a straight razor and try to cut anything but hair, after one pass it will be dull and the blade might be chipped. Straight razor sharp is fine for shaving but not needed for anything else.
I can sharpen my benchmade to the point that I can separate a 2ply piece of toilet paper and push cut the thin single ply (all done on Arkansas stones with little stropping). The problem lies that the edge is SO fine that it doesnt hold up even with m390 steel (the steel on my benchmade).
But I can run my ESEE knives 1090 steel over some medium grit maybe even my hard black arkansas and it will shave hair off my arm, but I have a blade that I can use for quit awhile (my knives cut a lot of hay twine and its HARD on knives) and stays working sharp.
My ESEE 5, I baton all my kindling for my wood stove with it, I dont need something that is as sharp as my straights for that, I need an edge that is coarse and wont chip. After I get done batoning with it, I then shave pieces off for fire starter (I dont use any paper, my stove is the shits if I dont take my time).
Every edge has its place, but no matter what, I can do it with a 400/800 combo norton whetstone and my arkansas stones, by hand. Are you really going to load up those fancy systems in a bag and take them out into the back country with you, especially the ones that need a flat stable surface and electricity?
Learn to do it by hand and you will always have that ability, even if you need to use a flat river rock to sharpen your knife with.
I shave with straight razors every morning... I know sharp.... What people forget is their is such thing as "working" sharp. You take a knife that is as sharp as a straight razor and try to cut anything but hair, after one pass it will be dull and the blade might be chipped. Straight razor sharp is fine for shaving but not needed for anything else.
I can sharpen my benchmade to the point that I can separate a 2ply piece of toilet paper and push cut the thin single ply (all done on Arkansas stones with little stropping). The problem lies that the edge is SO fine that it doesnt hold up even with m390 steel (the steel on my benchmade).
But I can run my ESEE knives 1090 steel over some medium grit maybe even my hard black arkansas and it will shave hair off my arm, but I have a blade that I can use for quit awhile (my knives cut a lot of hay twine and its HARD on knives) and stays working sharp.
My ESEE 5, I baton all my kindling for my wood stove with it, I dont need something that is as sharp as my straights for that, I need an edge that is coarse and wont chip. After I get done batoning with it, I then shave pieces off for fire starter (I dont use any paper, my stove is the shits if I dont take my time).
Every edge has its place, but no matter what, I can do it with a 400/800 combo norton whetstone and my arkansas stones, by hand. Are you really going to load up those fancy systems in a bag and take them out into the back country with you, especially the ones that need a flat stable surface and electricity?
Learn to do it by hand and you will always have that ability, even if you need to use a flat river rock to sharpen your knife with.
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: armorpl8chikn</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: X-fan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sharp is a relative term, with the Wicked Edge you get a finest edge possible with a minimal investment in the skillset.
Go to 2:55 or so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH6c4GnR9...JZ85O_ihdabhYq6
There is sharp and then there is hair whittling or toilet paper push cutting sharp. Google both for a reference.
Shaving sharp is for beginners.
<span style="color: #FF0000">And exactly how will a muskrat skin or a man's jugular tell the difference between shaving sharp and toilet paper push cutting ..whatever the hell that proves? Anything past shaving sharp is a great excercise in entertaining the uneducated. Use what you want I don't give a shit.</span>
You can get the same quality hand sharpening, but you will spend more than the Wicked Edge on quality stones. My last 10,000 grit Chosera was a bit over $300.00....How sharp do you want??
</div></div> </div></div>
armor chicken, its the ability to be so precise is it practical unless you are actually shaving your face, NO. Is it good to be able to KNOW you can get it that sharp, yep.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: armorpl8chikn</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: X-fan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sharp is a relative term, with the Wicked Edge you get a finest edge possible with a minimal investment in the skillset.
Go to 2:55 or so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BH6c4GnR9...JZ85O_ihdabhYq6
There is sharp and then there is hair whittling or toilet paper push cutting sharp. Google both for a reference.
Shaving sharp is for beginners.
<span style="color: #FF0000">And exactly how will a muskrat skin or a man's jugular tell the difference between shaving sharp and toilet paper push cutting ..whatever the hell that proves? Anything past shaving sharp is a great excercise in entertaining the uneducated. Use what you want I don't give a shit.</span>
You can get the same quality hand sharpening, but you will spend more than the Wicked Edge on quality stones. My last 10,000 grit Chosera was a bit over $300.00....How sharp do you want??
</div></div> </div></div>
armor chicken, its the ability to be so precise is it practical unless you are actually shaving your face, NO. Is it good to be able to KNOW you can get it that sharp, yep.
Re: Knife Sharpening
I use many different systems depending on what the knife needs. The old fashioned wet stones always work, but require more practice than the new gizmos that have an angle and grit already selected for you.
Of the gizmo types, I really like the spyderco "V" system that holds the ceramic rods, or diamond lap hones at a pre-determined angle.
I use many different systems depending on what the knife needs. The old fashioned wet stones always work, but require more practice than the new gizmos that have an angle and grit already selected for you.
Of the gizmo types, I really like the spyderco "V" system that holds the ceramic rods, or diamond lap hones at a pre-determined angle.
Re: Knife Sharpening
Steve Woods is an artist,marksman,grandmaster,father, Friend and many other titles, but for the finishing touch on blades , he uses a strop
Steve Woods is an artist,marksman,grandmaster,father, Friend and many other titles, but for the finishing touch on blades , he uses a strop
Re: Knife Sharpening
1000 grit wetstone, 6000 grit wetstone, and newspaper. The only thing you need after that is practice. Watch the Murray Carter videos on youtube, it works if you give it some practice.
1000 grit wetstone, 6000 grit wetstone, and newspaper. The only thing you need after that is practice. Watch the Murray Carter videos on youtube, it works if you give it some practice.
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Oneshotman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I must be on the outside looking in on this one LOL!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Switchblade</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I need something sharpened ral good, I'll take it a few doors down to K. Breed. If you know tactical knives and tactical custom from anyone in *th Group, then you know who I am talking about </div></div> </div></div>
Pick up the dedicated knife magazines and look for any article by K. Breed. Not only is he known for his damascus blades, he has been a knife writer/evaluator for years. Damn fine guy, and a straight shooter.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Oneshotman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I must be on the outside looking in on this one LOL!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Switchblade</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I need something sharpened ral good, I'll take it a few doors down to K. Breed. If you know tactical knives and tactical custom from anyone in *th Group, then you know who I am talking about </div></div> </div></div>
Pick up the dedicated knife magazines and look for any article by K. Breed. Not only is he known for his damascus blades, he has been a knife writer/evaluator for years. Damn fine guy, and a straight shooter.
Re: Knife Sharpening
quote=armorpl8chikn]
<span style="color: #FF0000">And exactly how will a muskrat skin or a man's jugular tell the difference between shaving sharp and toilet paper push cutting ..whatever the hell that proves? Anything past shaving sharp is a great excercise in entertaining the uneducated. Use what you want I don't give a shit.</span>
You are clearly not a knife guy.....Like I said sharp is relative or in your case something foreign. A skinning knife this sharp just makes holes in the cape.
A fighting knife so sharp is another matter.
Ever seen a Samaria sword that wouldn't cut falling silk? Why would they bother spending hundreds of hours to get a blade so sharp? To waste time? Not that you care, but the period swords were rated in bodies...a six body was typical....12 was doable (living prisoners as test subjects).
I can run and tap my fingers up and down a typical hair shaving sharp edge feeling bumps, lumps, and rolls as I go. Try the same thing on one of my blades and your bleeding. Bump the edge and its off for stitches...If your lucky.
The lightest two finger swipe will peel thru a biker thick leather like its not even there. The skin underneath to the easily to the bone.
With one of my fighters I don't need a throat, just a front....Right thru the jacket,vest, ribs, and tender beating bits....Full length..UP AND DOWN.
Zip.Zip. Splash.
Questions?
quote=armorpl8chikn]
<span style="color: #FF0000">And exactly how will a muskrat skin or a man's jugular tell the difference between shaving sharp and toilet paper push cutting ..whatever the hell that proves? Anything past shaving sharp is a great excercise in entertaining the uneducated. Use what you want I don't give a shit.</span>
You are clearly not a knife guy.....Like I said sharp is relative or in your case something foreign. A skinning knife this sharp just makes holes in the cape.
A fighting knife so sharp is another matter.
Ever seen a Samaria sword that wouldn't cut falling silk? Why would they bother spending hundreds of hours to get a blade so sharp? To waste time? Not that you care, but the period swords were rated in bodies...a six body was typical....12 was doable (living prisoners as test subjects).
I can run and tap my fingers up and down a typical hair shaving sharp edge feeling bumps, lumps, and rolls as I go. Try the same thing on one of my blades and your bleeding. Bump the edge and its off for stitches...If your lucky.
The lightest two finger swipe will peel thru a biker thick leather like its not even there. The skin underneath to the easily to the bone.
With one of my fighters I don't need a throat, just a front....Right thru the jacket,vest, ribs, and tender beating bits....Full length..UP AND DOWN.
Zip.Zip. Splash.
Questions?
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. </div></div>
Never doubt someone's capabilities just because they have evaded you.
My grandfather wasn't a knife maker, but shaved with a straight razor everyday till he died. I loved watching him sharpen it.</div></div>
Honing a straight razor where the angle is determined by laying the blade flat on the stone is apples/oranges different than sharpening a knife edge at an exact angle while holding the back of the knife at some point in space throughout the entire stroke, and from stroke to stroke being able to maintain that angle.
I can put a working edge on a knife with a flat stone, but that doesn't mean I'm completely satisfied with the results. Might even be able to shave some hair off my arm at certain areas along the edge of the blade. What I'm saying is that it is not a human trait to be able to maintain the level of precision that a precision machine sharpener can.
I'm thinking that a flat stone is great for field use, but something more precise would be great for general maintanence of knives. I rarely have a field use for a sharpener where I have an immediate "need" for one right then, so the fact that the precision sharpeners aren't really something I can throw in my pocket isn't much of a problem for me.
Will a wicked edge or one of the other precision sharpeners make a difference in "my" knife sharpening ability? Nope. Will they get my knives sharper than I otherwise could? Yep. Will it make a tangible difference? Don't know??? What I do know is that being able to sharpen my knives at a higher level of precision than I would be able to with a set of Arkansas stones appeals to my OCD!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to call into question anyones ability to maintain a known and perfect angle using just a steady hand and a stone. Maybe, maybe someone who does it for a living. </div></div>
Never doubt someone's capabilities just because they have evaded you.
My grandfather wasn't a knife maker, but shaved with a straight razor everyday till he died. I loved watching him sharpen it.</div></div>
Honing a straight razor where the angle is determined by laying the blade flat on the stone is apples/oranges different than sharpening a knife edge at an exact angle while holding the back of the knife at some point in space throughout the entire stroke, and from stroke to stroke being able to maintain that angle.
I can put a working edge on a knife with a flat stone, but that doesn't mean I'm completely satisfied with the results. Might even be able to shave some hair off my arm at certain areas along the edge of the blade. What I'm saying is that it is not a human trait to be able to maintain the level of precision that a precision machine sharpener can.
I'm thinking that a flat stone is great for field use, but something more precise would be great for general maintanence of knives. I rarely have a field use for a sharpener where I have an immediate "need" for one right then, so the fact that the precision sharpeners aren't really something I can throw in my pocket isn't much of a problem for me.
Will a wicked edge or one of the other precision sharpeners make a difference in "my" knife sharpening ability? Nope. Will they get my knives sharper than I otherwise could? Yep. Will it make a tangible difference? Don't know??? What I do know is that being able to sharpen my knives at a higher level of precision than I would be able to with a set of Arkansas stones appeals to my OCD!
Re: Knife Sharpening
I use the Lansky system. Has worked fine for me for years. after i get done with the finest stone in the set, i will strop my knife on my blue jeans to finish polishing the edge. that system even works on some of the new steels like the s30v
I use the Lansky system. Has worked fine for me for years. after i get done with the finest stone in the set, i will strop my knife on my blue jeans to finish polishing the edge. that system even works on some of the new steels like the s30v
Re: Knife Sharpening
Even with the Wicked Edge cheap kit using only 600 grit stones you get a super keen edge. This is because the edge is dead nuts straight and consistent.
Once you get the blade like that it comes back almost instantly with a few ultra light strokes of a fine ceramic.
To restore the edge I don't find I need to strop the blade like a chef would on a steel, but rather run the blade extremely lightly across (near 90 degrees) to the ceramic and just like magic the edge straightens out and comes back. A few quick passes over the belt and it is just as keen as ever.
The tough part of hand sharpening is one bad stroke will ruin the edge you worked so hard at. Also If you have an old spring steel knife it is much easier to put and edge on that something like S-30V. I have a few super hard blades in S-110V and ZDP-189 and they are near impossible to attain perfect sharpness by hand. That's the bad, the good being they stay sharp for a very long time.
Even with the Wicked Edge cheap kit using only 600 grit stones you get a super keen edge. This is because the edge is dead nuts straight and consistent.
Once you get the blade like that it comes back almost instantly with a few ultra light strokes of a fine ceramic.
To restore the edge I don't find I need to strop the blade like a chef would on a steel, but rather run the blade extremely lightly across (near 90 degrees) to the ceramic and just like magic the edge straightens out and comes back. A few quick passes over the belt and it is just as keen as ever.
The tough part of hand sharpening is one bad stroke will ruin the edge you worked so hard at. Also If you have an old spring steel knife it is much easier to put and edge on that something like S-30V. I have a few super hard blades in S-110V and ZDP-189 and they are near impossible to attain perfect sharpness by hand. That's the bad, the good being they stay sharp for a very long time.
Re: Knife Sharpening
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Oneshotman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you guys use to sharpen your blades? I have sent a few to Steve Woods and he does a heck of a job just wondering how i can get the same result at home? Any one use a electric sharpener or just the old school stone and oil idea? Mainly have a few folders and a good collection of woods fix blades and other fix blade stuff. </div></div>
I just wanted to update this thread since I was talking about getting a Wicked Edge sharpener. It arrived this past week and I mounted it to a board today. All I can say is that it is everything they advertise it to be. I ended up getting the kit and also ordered the ultra course (50-80), extra fine diamond (800-1000) and ultra fine (1200-1600) ceramic stones as well as the 14/10 micron and 5/3.5 micron strops. I spent a couple hours reprofiling and sharpening the edges on all my pocket knives this afternoon. It takes a little bit of getting used to, but if you take it slow you will absolutely get a scary sharp blade, SCARY SHARP! No way I'd ever be able to do that by hand. Now I know what "hair popping" sharp really is and am missing the hair from my wrist to about 6"s up my arm because of it, the hair actually "pops" right off instead of shaves off. You can take one light stroke down you arm with the knife and it will literally make a hairless stripe down your arm with no effort! You don't have to "shave" at it, just one light stroke and it's gone. Right now, the extra fine and ultra fine stones are on back order, I imagine when I get them it will make it just that much better. I was going through the different grits of diamond from 50-80-100-200-400-600 and then jumping all the way to 14 micron strop down to the 3.5 micron strop, that's a pretty big jump going from 600 grit to 14 microns. The stones on back order should make a better transition to the strops than 600 grit. I liked the idea and decided to take a chance that it was what they claimed it to be, hoped it would be of good quality. I was pleasantly suprised at the quality, it's a very well thought out and built peice of equipment. It does take a little bit of time to sharpen up a blade if you go through all the different grits, but I imagine that after having set the angle on my kinves I doubt I'll ever have to go below the 800 grit stone to bring the edge back to razor sharp. Had one booboo with my 3.5 micron strop, I was moving the left hand strop along the blade and moving the right hand strop back to start another stroke when I got too close to the blade with the right hand strop and cut into the leather. Didn't put any pressure on it at all and it cut about 3/8" deep into the strop! I'd never really given much thought to the stropping process, but now that I've done it I've been made a believer. It takes it from very sharp to scary sharp and really polishes up the edge. Only thing I'm not a fan of is the compound. It comes with maybe 1cc of each compound which should last a pretty long time but it's fairly expensive for the amount you get. I'm going to look into other compounds on the market and see if there is something better for the money as far as the compound goes even if it's not the exact same grit. My verdict would be that it is expensive, yet worth every penny. I spent $445 on everything, and that is buying via one of WE's vendors who sells cheaper than you can buy from the company themselves. I highly reccomend!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Oneshotman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you guys use to sharpen your blades? I have sent a few to Steve Woods and he does a heck of a job just wondering how i can get the same result at home? Any one use a electric sharpener or just the old school stone and oil idea? Mainly have a few folders and a good collection of woods fix blades and other fix blade stuff. </div></div>
I just wanted to update this thread since I was talking about getting a Wicked Edge sharpener. It arrived this past week and I mounted it to a board today. All I can say is that it is everything they advertise it to be. I ended up getting the kit and also ordered the ultra course (50-80), extra fine diamond (800-1000) and ultra fine (1200-1600) ceramic stones as well as the 14/10 micron and 5/3.5 micron strops. I spent a couple hours reprofiling and sharpening the edges on all my pocket knives this afternoon. It takes a little bit of getting used to, but if you take it slow you will absolutely get a scary sharp blade, SCARY SHARP! No way I'd ever be able to do that by hand. Now I know what "hair popping" sharp really is and am missing the hair from my wrist to about 6"s up my arm because of it, the hair actually "pops" right off instead of shaves off. You can take one light stroke down you arm with the knife and it will literally make a hairless stripe down your arm with no effort! You don't have to "shave" at it, just one light stroke and it's gone. Right now, the extra fine and ultra fine stones are on back order, I imagine when I get them it will make it just that much better. I was going through the different grits of diamond from 50-80-100-200-400-600 and then jumping all the way to 14 micron strop down to the 3.5 micron strop, that's a pretty big jump going from 600 grit to 14 microns. The stones on back order should make a better transition to the strops than 600 grit. I liked the idea and decided to take a chance that it was what they claimed it to be, hoped it would be of good quality. I was pleasantly suprised at the quality, it's a very well thought out and built peice of equipment. It does take a little bit of time to sharpen up a blade if you go through all the different grits, but I imagine that after having set the angle on my kinves I doubt I'll ever have to go below the 800 grit stone to bring the edge back to razor sharp. Had one booboo with my 3.5 micron strop, I was moving the left hand strop along the blade and moving the right hand strop back to start another stroke when I got too close to the blade with the right hand strop and cut into the leather. Didn't put any pressure on it at all and it cut about 3/8" deep into the strop! I'd never really given much thought to the stropping process, but now that I've done it I've been made a believer. It takes it from very sharp to scary sharp and really polishes up the edge. Only thing I'm not a fan of is the compound. It comes with maybe 1cc of each compound which should last a pretty long time but it's fairly expensive for the amount you get. I'm going to look into other compounds on the market and see if there is something better for the money as far as the compound goes even if it's not the exact same grit. My verdict would be that it is expensive, yet worth every penny. I spent $445 on everything, and that is buying via one of WE's vendors who sells cheaper than you can buy from the company themselves. I highly reccomend!!
Re: Knife Sharpening
I have been keeping my knives sharp for years with all manner of stones.
Once get that initial grinding done I can keep my kitchen cutlery good on a steel and a large medium grit stone or my carry knives in good shape with an Arkansas that will fit in a pack.
Personally I do find that I like something like a Lansky or some other kit/guide to grind the initial bevel on a blade. Most blades seem to come from the factory with about a 40 degree cut on them and grinding that off to a 20 or 25 I find it helpful to have a guide.
I have been keeping my knives sharp for years with all manner of stones.
Once get that initial grinding done I can keep my kitchen cutlery good on a steel and a large medium grit stone or my carry knives in good shape with an Arkansas that will fit in a pack.
Personally I do find that I like something like a Lansky or some other kit/guide to grind the initial bevel on a blade. Most blades seem to come from the factory with about a 40 degree cut on them and grinding that off to a 20 or 25 I find it helpful to have a guide.
