KRG Bravo 10/22 chassis loose fit?

[Colt45guy]

My KRG Bravo 10/22 chassis recently arrived. Rifle is an OEM Ruger receiver, KSA .920" barrel and a Timney CE trigger.

Putting the chassis together, I had to swap around the A and B spacers, but it was otherwise painless.

My question is: At the manufacturer's recommended action screw torque of 20 in/lbs, the barrel has a lot of side-to-side play. Enough that with just a little thumb pressure, it will contact the aluminum.


Is this normal? All barrels will flex a bit, but I have other chassis that don't have anywhere near as much slop. The only difference is that they all specify more like 45-65 in/lbs on the action screws. I may be fretting over nothing, but wanted to see if anyone else has noticed this.

 

[acudaowner]

bed it and pillar it . Beat it into submission or

 

[Trung Si Ma]

My 10/22 is a Kidd SuperGrade and it fits into the KRG Bravo chassis well. Of course, the Kidd has two screws - front and rear.

I have both screws torqued at 10 inch-pounds per Kidd.

Don

 

[Grey Kiwi]

Is the action actually torqued correctly...or are the action screws a tad too long (and bottoming out)?
Check screw ends, and bottom of the action holes for 'bright' spots (showing contact).
Might only need a bit of length filed off the end of the screws (1mm?) and try the action fit again.

 

[Colt45guy]

@Grey Kiwi

Good suggestion! I already checked that. Screw is definitely not bottomed out. I upped the torque to 40 in/lbs--made a big improvement, but there's still (IMO) excessive play. I've got an email in to KRG to see what they have to say.

 

[LoCal247]

So have you fixed the issue?

 

[Colt45guy]

The folks at KRG answered my email and said that if it shoots good, it's not an issue.

The barrel still moves around more than my other 10/22s do. Both of them are in Victor Titan stocks with spike anchors--with the KRG chassis (ans swapping out the KSA for a VQ carbon fiber barrel), this one is a couple of pounds lighter than the others, but it's also the most accurate. It'll hold it's own against my B14R until we get out past 150.

45 in/lbs of torque seems to be the sweet spot. It shoots great, so I'm of the opinion that it was never a problem at all--just 'different' than I'm used to.

 

[LoCal247]

The folks at KRG answered my email and said that if it shoots good, it's not an issue.

The barrel still moves around more than my other 10/22s do. Both of them are in Victor Titan stocks--with the KRG chassis and the VQ carbon fiber barrel, this one is a couple of pounds lighter than the others, but it's also the most accurate. It'll hold it's own against my B14R until we get out past 150.

45 in/lbs of torque seems to be the sweet spot. It shoots great, so I'm of the opinion that it was never a problem at all--just 'different' than I'm used to.

Ok thanks for the info I have a Krg bravo on the way. So not the usual 20-25 in/lbs for the 10/22 but 45in/lbs ?

 

[Colt45guy]

Ok thanks for the info I have a Krg bravo on the way. So not the usual 20-25 in/lbs for the 10/22 but 45in/lbs ?

Follow the instructions from KRG! I'm just a random guy on the internet and I'd hate to hear that you broke something on my advice.

I upped the torque to make the barreled action a little tighter but I can't say for sure if it improved anything other than my own desire to have it a little more rigid.

It shoots lights-out like this, so I'm keeping it this way, but I'd bet it would shoot just as well at 20-25 in/lbs

 

[LoCal247]

Follow the instructions from KRG! I'm just a random guy on the internet and I'd hate to hear that you broke something on my advice.

I upped the torque to make the barreled action a little tighter but I can't say for sure if it improved anything other than my own desire to have it a little more rigid.

It shoots lights-out like this, so I'm keeping it this way, but I'd bet it would shoot just as well at 20-25 in/lbs

Hahaha fair enough. Thanks for the response

 

[ToddM]

Bit of a necrothread but I actually ended up bedding mine for this very reason, the fact I could easily nudge the barrel to a side and have it stay there not return to center, to either side was too much for my brain to accept. Be careful on the action screw torque though, I tried that at first but if you put too much torque on the action screw you can see the two A/B plates flex together in the center which actually reduces the clamping pressure of the plates on the metal chassis because it spreads the ends out, so too much torque is bad too. My guess is that's why the only recommend 20in/lbs. This action interface to me is the weakest part of the chassis, and it's an important one. Bedding it massively increased the stiffness and it's very solid now, though I'm not sure the overstock would ever come off again, not that it matters.

The other issue I had was I noticed that I was having issues getting mags to insert now and then, which seemed odd cause I've never had that issue before. At first I suspected I was putting them in tipped forward/backwards cause Ruger's can be a bit touch on that, but when I started looking at the chassis magwell I immediately saw the issue. So there's a 3/8" thick gap between the plastic overstock and the metal chassis where the mag inserts, and if you have the mag tipped side to side even a bit, the flat top edge of the Ruger mag will catch on the lip of the metal chassis. I ended up epoxying in a couple pieces of 0.09" kydex to take up the space and I haven't had a mag not insert cleanly since. Here again it seems like having a big gap with a sharp ledge for a mag to catch on is a big design miss.



Before they were released I remember KRG saying they were working on an add-on that would allow a secondary retention point on the action for non-kidd receivers, it's unfortunate that this hasn't happened cause it's really the weakest link of most of the chassis systems, even if it was as simple as the Titan achor lock system.

 

[fdkay]

Ruger actions are lost wax cast receivers. LOTS of variance in dimensions. Bedding sounds like the right answer.

 

[Moe Ron]

I made my own rear hold down for the stock Ruger receiver. Had a chunk of aluminum laying around. Drilled a hole in the back of the receiver, drilled and tapped the aluminum block, drilled and counterbored the block for the screw into the stock. All done with hand tools

 

[Byoung04]

I made my own rear hold down for the stock Ruger receiver. Had a chunk of aluminum laying around. Drilled a hole in the back of the receiver, drilled and tapped the aluminum block, drilled and counterbored the block for the screw into the stock. All done with hand tools

View attachment 8179452View attachment 8179453View attachment 8179454

Would you mind posting pictures if the modifications done to the receiver?

 

[Moe Ron]

I’ll gladly post some pics when I get time to disassemble. It’s just a hole countersunk to accommodate a small machine screw that threads into the aluminum block.