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KRG W3 Bedding.

Starlingsniper

Private
Minuteman
Jun 5, 2020
12
2
Good Day everyone. I am building a KRG Whiskey 3 in 6 creed.

What are your thoughts with bedding this chassis. Or bedding any chassis for that matter. My gunsmith is adamant it needs bedding.

Will It help with the harmonics that much, with a heavy palmer profile barrel.
 
I’ve never bedded mine and it shoots great. I run a proof comp contour barrel in it
 
Good Day everyone. I am building a KRG Whiskey 3 in 6 creed.

What are your thoughts with bedding this chassis. Or bedding any chassis for that matter. My gunsmith is adamant it needs bedding.

Will It help with the harmonics that much, with a heavy palmer profile barrel.
Are you having accuracy problems with it? Why are you asking?
 
No, Its a new build. Not even put together yet. I am asking because I`d like my gunsmith to drop the bedding job. But hes certain it needs doing.
 
I've seen it done. It depends on the action. If you have a higher end action I probably wouldn't. A factory Remington I might.
 
No, Its a new build. Not even put together yet. I am asking because I`d like my gunsmith to drop the bedding job. But hes certain it needs doing.
Wait, a gunsmith putting together a W3? Literally all a gunsmith needs to do for someone with a W3 is maybe attach the barrel to the action if you don’t have the tools/know-how. And maybe time the trigger and thread the barrel if it isn’t already.

I mean, you should be able to install a trigger, scope rail, and scope and pop the action into the chassis.

Am I missing something here? Sounds like a gunsmith add-on/profit.

I’d shoot it first to see how it goes.

A W3 has a radius interface for the action vs most action’s v-block. I believe, but do not know for certain, that radius > v-block, so it would seem that the W3 would need bedding less than a v-block chassis (assuming all things equal).

See here:
 
I changed out from two professionally bedded T4A to the w3 chassis. I will be changing out a 3rd bedded T4a to a w3 on my rimx. Neither of the 2 are skim bedded nor will the 3rd.

They shoot absolutely fantastic, I have found I am able to keep those tiny groups much more consistently than I could in the previous setups. Possibly because the chassis fits me better or perhaps more due to my grip position on the chassis, which is more consistent than the later, not sure exactly but I can tell you from my end at least that it plug and plays like a champ.
 
The best way to tell if a chassis needs bedding is to shoot at least 50-100 rounds through the rifle before determining if bedding is needed. Disassemble the rifle and check the contact points between action and chassis. There will be wear marks in the finish of the chassis. If the wear marks are not symmetrical then go ahead and bed it. Or if it's shooting to your expectations then no need. But most likely your smith insisting it needs bedding before knowing this is just looking for extra work, unless there is something obviously wrong with the chassis and should be sent back to the manufacturer to address the issue. I've probably bedded 5-6 chassis in the past 8 years that needed it, most are fine without, but they are out there.
 
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My groups opened after I put my 6.5 cm in the Magpul pro chassis so I used some Dykem to check contact.

Turned out I just needed to tweak the load a tad a the barrel had broken/settled in.
 

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Your gunsmith wants to make money off you for no other reason but to pad his pockets. I would make the argument that bedding even traditional stocks nearly always is completely unnecessary and nothing more than gunsmith gravy.
 
Some smiths aren't up to speed on the chassis set ups and just think that for accuracy, you must bed it. It may be more of that type of situation vs just wanting to make money. Either way , the good chassis are made to not have to bed them and there is no reason to.
 
This comes up every so often and is always semi-misunderstood. It's never usually as simple as "you should never have to bed a chassis" or "you have to bed everything no matter what." The answer is always somewhere in between.

Chassis are made as universal fits and by default will not fit every action perfectly.....no matter what people want to believe. You can easily find owners of chassis manufacturers like Phil Cashin on record admitting that sometimes bedding is needed for their chassis. The easiest way to check is to either use something like dykem above or you can bolt your rifle together and give it some smacks with rubber or dead blow hammer (nothing crazy, just simulate banging into props or sliding around in back seat or bag) and check for any zero shifts. If you get shifts with things torqued down, you might need to bed the chassis. If you don't, then you don't.

Then there's also the amount of precision you're looking for. For example, Jim Borden still takes material off scope rings and beds every scope. But he's building rifles for a different crowd than most here.


Lastly, as far as your smith. He could be trying to line his pocket or he could just be the type that only lets rifles leave his shop that have had everything he can possibly do to make sure they shoot well. Everyone above is piling on, but need to look at it from the other side as well. Let's say for whatever reason that chassis does need bedding with your action. When it doesn't shoot well, who's getting blamed for it? More than likely the smith. One of the last things people will even begin to think about being the problem is the chassis. So his chamber job and other such will be called into question.

We personally don't insist on bedding a chassis. We will just explain to a customer they likely don't need to unless they want to go the extra distance, but sometimes bedding is the correct path. And then we take it from there.


Here's a decent video of the smith side of the coin: