I've decided to get an LabRadar and was looking for recommendations on accessories to get with it. I plan on getting a case and external battery but keep reading about sights and external triggers that make it much easier to use. Let me know what helps and what doesn't . Thanks!
- Thread starter Hntgriz
- Start date
LabRadar w/ MKM Carbon Fiber Labradar Sight
LabRadar is the world’s newest technology in obtaining projectile velocities. Doppler Radar is the most precise method of measuring velocities available. Its accuracy is not dependant on light conditions or being exactly parallel to photo electric sensors resulting in false readings.
www.mkmachining.com Quad base. For use with a Lab radar.
Base with folding legs for use with a lab radar unit. Body and legs are machined from aluminum and all screws are stainless.Rubber feet prevent sliding on the bench.Foot print of the unit is 6" x 6" to center of the rubber feet. When attached to the lab radar, it provides a very stable and...
arkcomachine.com 
THE ORIGINAL Piet Recoil Trigger for LabRadar
Labradar triggers now come in Orange or Black unless a special order Is made. Connect with me at [email protected]
pietrecoiltrigger.com If you shoot with a brake and for better aiming in general I prefer this base:
buymylabradar.com
The disadvantage is it won't fit in the soft case like the arcko one.
Quad Pod
The Quad Pod is designed to mount the LabRadar above the barrel when shooting from a prone position if you have a large caliber rifle and an aggressive muzzle brake. The user can select the length of the legs for his specific purpose. The Quad Pod mount is made of heavy gauge stainless steel and...
buymylabradar.com The disadvantage is it won't fit in the soft case like the arcko one.
The lab radar tri pod sucks, just don't get that. Depending on what you are going to shoot and how much you will use it will determine what all you need. I have not needed an extra battery, never needed the aiming device, some just tape a cut straw there and works great, also never needed a separate trigger even when shooting suppressed. I have not shot 22 or anything real small so can not comment on that.
Last edited:
I have an external power pack just because after a time its cheaper than aa batteries.
I got a little camera clamp from amazon that I use to attach it to a 2x4. I have a couple little quick clamps and I can attach the 2x4 to any thing. I clamp it to my bench but Ive also clamped it onto tripod legs where a table isnt present.
I havent had an issue with the blast triggering the radar with my omegas but my cousins thunderbeast did so I made my own little recoil sensor with more amazon trinkets.
I got a little camera clamp from amazon that I use to attach it to a 2x4. I have a couple little quick clamps and I can attach the 2x4 to any thing. I clamp it to my bench but Ive also clamped it onto tripod legs where a table isnt present.
I havent had an issue with the blast triggering the radar with my omegas but my cousins thunderbeast did so I made my own little recoil sensor with more amazon trinkets.
Last edited:
DIY trigger or buy one from Piet https://pietrecoiltrigger.com
www.snipershide.com
LabRadar Trigger DIY
Thought I would just say how awesome it appears that the LabRadar can be! In about an hour of total time, I've been able to purchase, and fabricate all the items needed for a vibration based trigger. The idea was posted here: https://www.ozfclass.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=12152, which I found...
www.snipershide.com 
I've had mine a couple months and been to the range with it a couple times.... the quad pod it nice if your home range is setup to support the height. I shoot from a bench and the standard bipod works fine. I recommend a sight of some sort, there are dozens available. The connection to bipod is crap... I bought a "The Gray Ops CNC 4-Way Arca Adapter Labrador Mount" from Midway worth it. Any battery pack you use needs to 2.1amp most phone battery pack are not. The one from Lab works great and it runs all day...
texashaag
texashaag
Skip the labradar and get the andiscan. Better in every way.
I've looked at the device and it looks good. I especially like its size, don't really want to mount it to the rifle though. The price is really high compared to the Lab, and availability is not likely for a while. This will probably be a good chrono once the company gets things like distribution and software ironed out. The Lab works very well as is. The extras are nice like a sight, adapter for the tripod and extra battery. After 8-10 hrs of use, the internal AA batteries are still half full. The external battery pack is not really needed for the average user, just have an extra set of AA's on hand.
Sent you a pm.
Regardless of what accessories you get, accept that there is a learning curve. Early on, you can expect to miss picking up some shots. It also helps to read the manual... a recent acquaintance bought an LR and didn't bother. He was picking up ZERO shots. Turned out he was just setting the thing on a bench with the no-button-side kinda sorta pointed at his target and that's all he needed to do. It's also useful to understand that USA-sold LRs have a low-power mode that can be useful on close or cluttered ranges.
I put AA batteries in mine... one time. They lasted about an hour. Pfft. No need to even bother with them.
I don't use a sight to aim mine or an inertia trigger to trigger it even with .22LR, but I've had three-plus years of practice and I usually shoot during the week with no or few other people on the line. It's definitely true that the more sensitive trigger settings will cause "mis-reads" if other loud/braked rifles are fired nearby - I can see the value of an inertia trigger in that circumstance.
LabRadars are not without their weaknesses, but mine has been great. The one time I called for support, I got it in real time - it was my first time trying to chrono a .22, and I was getting bizarre velocities (solution: trigger level 1 with external microphone, use handgun velocity range). Heh. You'll learn that leaving velocity range set to "handgun" when shooting centerfire rifle will give you some amazing velocities (in excess of 5000fps)!
I put AA batteries in mine... one time. They lasted about an hour. Pfft. No need to even bother with them.
I don't use a sight to aim mine or an inertia trigger to trigger it even with .22LR, but I've had three-plus years of practice and I usually shoot during the week with no or few other people on the line. It's definitely true that the more sensitive trigger settings will cause "mis-reads" if other loud/braked rifles are fired nearby - I can see the value of an inertia trigger in that circumstance.
LabRadars are not without their weaknesses, but mine has been great. The one time I called for support, I got it in real time - it was my first time trying to chrono a .22, and I was getting bizarre velocities (solution: trigger level 1 with external microphone, use handgun velocity range). Heh. You'll learn that leaving velocity range set to "handgun" when shooting centerfire rifle will give you some amazing velocities (in excess of 5000fps)!
Great info.
The LR uses a micro USB connector from the external battery. It seems very flimsy. I found this after a suggestion in the last LR thread:
I have a section of drinking straw taped to the "sight groove" that works fine. I just keep forgetting to add the MKM widget the few times I've bought other stuff. The blue taped straw definitely says "I'm a cheep mo-fo" (or maybe too poor to buy a proper sight after I dropped the jing on this radar). Some folks put some pic rail on top and put a cheap red dot for sighting.
Like @spife7980 I've attached camera mounting hardware to scrap lumber: one to a 2x4 that I can clamp in my tripod. Another to a piece of plywood that I can sit on a shooting bench.
I have a section of drinking straw taped to the "sight groove" that works fine. I just keep forgetting to add the MKM widget the few times I've bought other stuff. The blue taped straw definitely says "I'm a cheep mo-fo" (or maybe too poor to buy a proper sight after I dropped the jing on this radar). Some folks put some pic rail on top and put a cheap red dot for sighting.
Like @spife7980 I've attached camera mounting hardware to scrap lumber: one to a 2x4 that I can clamp in my tripod. Another to a piece of plywood that I can sit on a shooting bench.
- I use a pencil held in the groove to point the radar - it works every time.
- A friend uses a drinking straw cut in half and held in the groove by a couple of elastic bands.
- I use a rectangular piece of wood screwed to the radar to hold it when shooting from a bench. Helps square it with the corresponding 100m target to the front. Also keeps it low for bench shooting.
- I use an external Li-ion battery made from 6x18650 (laptop) batteries. The voltage needs to be 4.5V - 5V (the international standard for USB) so use a cheap voltage regulator between the 3S2P battery and radar.
- I don't use the phone app; found it is more trouble than it is worth (kept dropping out and freezing). When shooting from a bench you can press buttons on your phone, or press buttons on the radar right next to you without breaking your stance - up to you.
- I use a kinetic trigger when shooting suppressed. You can make them for $5 in parts.
- I record the action on the SD card and do all the manipulation and deletion of odd shots back at home on the computer, it's easier.
- After a couple of years the micro USB port became worn so installed a second power input and jack just above the SD card slot. You have to open it up if you want to do this (8 screws).
- The Labradar gives velocities downrange so you can work out the true ballistic coefficient (bullet manufacturers sometimes exaggerate the BC to encourage more sales). All other chronographs only give muzzle velocity.
Last edited:
I've had a Labradar since they were first released and I'm very happy with it. My set up at this time which I'm very happy with is
- Piet Trigger (I always use it)
- External battery (It's all I ever use)
- Mini Tripod (Bestshoot) from amazon
- Some type of aiming device (I'm using a cheap red dot currently)
- I use the app on my iphone all the time
The trigger, external battery and tripod in my opinion is required. I don't go to the range without them.
Good luck and enjoy whatever you may choose
- Piet Trigger (I always use it)
- External battery (It's all I ever use)
- Mini Tripod (Bestshoot) from amazon
- Some type of aiming device (I'm using a cheap red dot currently)
- I use the app on my iphone all the time
The trigger, external battery and tripod in my opinion is required. I don't go to the range without them.
Good luck and enjoy whatever you may choose
I'm unsure about the aiming devices. If you can use open sights, you can aim a lab radar without a 3rd party sight. I haven't dropped one shot since I started using the device. I've only used it on centerfire rifles, suppressed and unsuppressed.
Buy a mini-tripod.
Buy an external battery.
Read the directions. Most of the complaints you've read wouldn't exist if the user had read and followed the directions.
I've considered buying the LabRadar case. For now, I keep it in the box it shipped in or put it in the laptop sleeve of my backpack.
Compared to a traditional chronograph, the device is amazing. I think you'll love it. If I take a rifle out of my house, 90% of the time I have my LabRadar with me.
Buy a mini-tripod.
Buy an external battery.
Read the directions. Most of the complaints you've read wouldn't exist if the user had read and followed the directions.
I've considered buying the LabRadar case. For now, I keep it in the box it shipped in or put it in the laptop sleeve of my backpack.
Compared to a traditional chronograph, the device is amazing. I think you'll love it. If I take a rifle out of my house, 90% of the time I have my LabRadar with me.
Just for fun expoxied a 3" carbon fiber arrow shaft for simple sighting device. Measured length to easily fit in original case.
Use external power pack, ditched the factory tripod mount to use stable thru-table mounting and JKL Precision trigger.
Manual instructions in my face, easy to forget which button does what and when.
Use external power pack, ditched the factory tripod mount to use stable thru-table mounting and JKL Precision trigger.
Manual instructions in my face, easy to forget which button does what and when.
Attachments
Last edited:
I too am happy with my LabRadar. After a short learning curve it has been very reliable and accurate. Keep the manual handy and use the add ons mentioned above. External power source, Piet Trigger, tripod, and any of the inexpensive aiming devices. With the addition of these simple enhancements you have a world class chronograph even if it is cobbled together.
Apparently not. The AA battery icon appears when they are the power source. When external power pack is used, a different icon is displayed. When the batteries are installed AND external power pack is connected the icon for external power is displayed, presuming it trumps the AA batteries when both are present. I have only used an the LabRadar external power pack and it has been flawless. IF I were to use AA's I would only use lithium batteries not risking the device vitality to unpredictable alkaline vomiting. The Manual does not offer any information to answer this specific question.
This is an AWESOME idea....just did this to my LabRadar.
Thanks for the idea
In the four years or so since I got my LR and watched it deplete a set of DuraCell alkaline batteries in less than an hour, there have been zero batteries installed in the unit.
I don't even know why the device was designed with a bay for AA batteries - that bay would hold a monster rechargeable brick.
I don't even know why the device was designed with a bay for AA batteries - that bay would hold a monster rechargeable brick.
I agree. The batteries are silly in this device and yes, should have been designed around a power brick type rechargeable source.
And I too am very pleased w my unit. Think I’ve been running it for 2 1/2 years??
And yes, I can get erroneous shot data from another gun under a roof and baffles at one range I belong to. But it’s not too often and they are glaringly obvious and it’s easy to delete them from the series.
Cheers.
Everything has been pretty well-covered here.
I like the Arkco quad base (but any mini tripod or similar will work), a cheap/Amazon external battery pack, a recoil trigger (I prefer the JKL but also have the Piet), and a sight. I think those are the must-haves.
The only thing I would also add are those little magnetic charging cords/adapters… the ports on the LabRadar can be a little finicky when they are used a lot, and the magnetic adapters completely remove that possibility.
Otherwise, I’ve had no issues with mine. It’s a great system when used correctly/as directed above.
I like the Arkco quad base (but any mini tripod or similar will work), a cheap/Amazon external battery pack, a recoil trigger (I prefer the JKL but also have the Piet), and a sight. I think those are the must-haves.
The only thing I would also add are those little magnetic charging cords/adapters… the ports on the LabRadar can be a little finicky when they are used a lot, and the magnetic adapters completely remove that possibility.
Otherwise, I’ve had no issues with mine. It’s a great system when used correctly/as directed above.
I agree, using internal AA batteries for power is just not cost effective. I use it to store a vibration trigger and lead.
Be careful, the Micro USB socket gets loose over time - mine did, and other shooters have posted the same. You have to be gentle with the USB socket unless you want issues down the track.
To fix this, open the Radar and install a proper external power socket above the SD card slot (plenty of room inside). Slave the socket leads to the battery compartment leads. The battery compartment still works if you need it.
Be careful, the Micro USB socket gets loose over time - mine did, and other shooters have posted the same. You have to be gentle with the USB socket unless you want issues down the track.
To fix this, open the Radar and install a proper external power socket above the SD card slot (plenty of room inside). Slave the socket leads to the battery compartment leads. The battery compartment still works if you need it.
Last edited:
A few more LR usage comments.
Since I have been using the tube to aim at the target the Labradar has been picking up ~30% of my shots @ 100 meters, much higher than
without using the sight. When using the trigger, dropping the bolt for new magazine load will occasionally trigger the system and give a anomalous velocity which I delete and use Excel to re-calculate the statistics. The labradar data is written to the card as a ".csv file" (comma separating values). The first thing I do is "Save As" the .csv file to a .xlxs file, so the spread sheet data can be formatted, manipulated.
Since I have been using the tube to aim at the target the Labradar has been picking up ~30% of my shots @ 100 meters, much higher than
without using the sight. When using the trigger, dropping the bolt for new magazine load will occasionally trigger the system and give a anomalous velocity which I delete and use Excel to re-calculate the statistics. The labradar data is written to the card as a ".csv file" (comma separating values). The first thing I do is "Save As" the .csv file to a .xlxs file, so the spread sheet data can be formatted, manipulated.
If you are only getting 30% of shots picked up then something is seriously wrong w either your unit or the range environment you are using it in (e.g. baffles, lot metal, etc.)
If you are triggering the unit with bolt closure, reduce the sensitivity setting.
Cheers
Pretty sure he meant tracking to 100 yards 30% of the time.
Ah, thank you. I too get very few speeds at 80 & 100 yds with 140 gr .264 bullets but don’t really care. I just want MV.
Thanks for the correction.
Vibration triggers are either On or OFF so no adjusting for sensitivity. Sensitivity is fixed at the factory, and also how you orient it on the gun. Labradar's sensitivity adjustment is for the microphones.
Adjusting vibration switch sensitivity is all about orientating the switch to the way the gun jumps in the recoil. Front or back of the gun; inline with the barrel or at right angles. If you make your own trigger then choosing a more or less sensitive switch is also an option (I use the most sensitive of the three in the SW-180 series, the SW-18010P, they sell for $1 for 10 on EBay).
As for false triggers when racking the gun or knocking it, it's just the trigger doing its thing. I ignore the occasional false trigger and the screen message that goes with it. Firing the next round automatically resets the radar, so that message where it tells you to push a button to reset is irrelevant.
And you are absolutely sure of this?
Look in the manual and you will see that trigger sensitivity applies to internal acoustic trigger, external trigger, and Doppler mode.
Yes, both the Labradar airgun and archery adapters are microphones. You can see this in their photos, and they use the word 'microphone' in both product descriptions. These are adjustable for sensitivity on the radar.
Labradar does not sell vibration triggers like the after-market JKL and Piet. Vibration triggers sell for $0.10 each to up to $1K for commercial applications. You can build an accelerometer type switch or adapt an Arduino switch, but you have to ask yourself - why? When a switch costing 10 cents does the same thing.
Here's an earlier post on another thread where you can build your own vibration switch for less than $5. There's a cut-a-way photo showing the insides of an SW-180 series switch showing how it works - Either ON or OFF electrical contacts, and nothing in between, so it cannot be adjusted for sensitivity electrically. But, you can adjust for sensitivity in its orientation on the gun, or by buying more or less sensitive switches (the coils being more or less stiff when they wobble).
Vibration switch
Labradar does not sell vibration triggers like the after-market JKL and Piet. Vibration triggers sell for $0.10 each to up to $1K for commercial applications. You can build an accelerometer type switch or adapt an Arduino switch, but you have to ask yourself - why? When a switch costing 10 cents does the same thing.
Here's an earlier post on another thread where you can build your own vibration switch for less than $5. There's a cut-a-way photo showing the insides of an SW-180 series switch showing how it works - Either ON or OFF electrical contacts, and nothing in between, so it cannot be adjusted for sensitivity electrically. But, you can adjust for sensitivity in its orientation on the gun, or by buying more or less sensitive switches (the coils being more or less stiff when they wobble).
Vibration switch
Last edited:
Klem is correct - adjust trigger sensitivity via placement on the gun.
I think JKL recommends as forward as possible as that’s where the impulse is most significant. Not sure about others, but this method has worked extremely well for me.
I think JKL recommends as forward as possible as that’s where the impulse is most significant. Not sure about others, but this method has worked extremely well for me.
There is only one input for an external trigger whether it’s an external microphone or a movement trigger sending a signal and…clearly stated in the manual…the sensitivity setting adjusts (again) internal acoustic trigger, external trigger (only one input), and Doppler.
There may be a setting for it within the LabRadar but Klem’s point is that the JKL/Piet/cheap external vibration triggers can’t physically be adjusted regardless of what the LabRadar is set to. They’re just on or off, otherwise incapable of adjusting sensitivity.
The only “tuning” you can do with them is moving them around to different locations on the gun.
Baron,
Labradar endorses their products while shunning any other non Labradar device; partly to discourage ignorant shooters from wrecking their radars, but partly to maximise sales from their over-priced accessories.
The advice you keep quoting relates to their products only. How 'clear' they state it does not make it any more relevant to our discussion. They don't sell vibration/kinetic triggers and that advice does not apply.
Yes, kinetic triggers use the same input jack as their microphones, but you still cannot adjust the sensitivity of what is a simple make/break electrical circuit by a sensitivity circuit designed for microphones (which are not simple make/break circuits, and are adjustable).
Well I'm pretty sure Piet who originated the idea of the recoil trigger will disagree with you. This is easy to test yourself, simply set a Trigger level of 8 (max insensitivity), arm the unit and wiggle the sensor. Reset it to Trigger level 1 and repeat, it takes less movement to trigger a reading.
The sensitivity setting merely says "yep I had enough millivolts pass through for long enough to count as a shot", there is no sophisticated audio processing going on here. The recoil triggers will have a variable amount of surface contact between the spring and post and more importantly contact TIME, much like the resultant electrical signal a microphone produces.
The sensitivity setting merely says "yep I had enough millivolts pass through for long enough to count as a shot", there is no sophisticated audio processing going on here. The recoil triggers will have a variable amount of surface contact between the spring and post and more importantly contact TIME, much like the resultant electrical signal a microphone produces.
6.5,
You are correct in that the Trigger level works on a sliding scale of voltage acceptance from the microphones. The higher numbers up to 8 need more voltage to be accepted as a shot. Microphones translate air pressure into voltage; more pressure, more voltage. The Trigger level scale of 1-8 requires different voltages for each level to be accepted as a shot. I think we agree here.
With a kinetic trigger, the way it interacts with the radar's Trigger level is to be accepted as a shot from level 1-5, and then at levels 6, 7, 8 it is not accepted at all - this is regardless of how hard you smack it at any level. From level's 1-5 it has the same sensitivity, so in other words does not need heavier smacks towards 5 and lighter towards 1 to pass as a shot. Bottom line, you cannot adjust their sensitivity by the radar's Trigger Level, other than to have it working from 1-5, or not working from 6-8.
As for Piet disagreeing with me... Invoking the possibility someone else might disagree as leverage for an argument is specious at best, and a waste of words at worst. Regardless of what Piet might think, no one has a monopoly of knowledge in the area, including me.
You are correct in that the Trigger level works on a sliding scale of voltage acceptance from the microphones. The higher numbers up to 8 need more voltage to be accepted as a shot. Microphones translate air pressure into voltage; more pressure, more voltage. The Trigger level scale of 1-8 requires different voltages for each level to be accepted as a shot. I think we agree here.
With a kinetic trigger, the way it interacts with the radar's Trigger level is to be accepted as a shot from level 1-5, and then at levels 6, 7, 8 it is not accepted at all - this is regardless of how hard you smack it at any level. From level's 1-5 it has the same sensitivity, so in other words does not need heavier smacks towards 5 and lighter towards 1 to pass as a shot. Bottom line, you cannot adjust their sensitivity by the radar's Trigger Level, other than to have it working from 1-5, or not working from 6-8.
As for Piet disagreeing with me... Invoking the possibility someone else might disagree as leverage for an argument is specious at best, and a waste of words at worst. Regardless of what Piet might think, no one has a monopoly of knowledge in the area, including me.
Last edited:
Perhaps with the particular sensor you are using, these are not exactly a high precision part.
I can trigger the current production Piet I have as well as 1810 and 1820 based switches I built myself on Trigger level 8, a 1830 I can't shake hard enough but need to impact it to trigger. It takes more effort on 8 than 1 and this is easily testable for anyone who wishes to try for themselves. If anyone has an 1810 they can't set off on Level 8 it's possibly mislabeled, I'm not a gorilla and can do it on multiple examples I've assembled.
The TLDR is YES the Trigger level setting does effect how much movement is needed to trigger a reading. Where you place the sensor will also affect how much movement the trigger is exposed to. There will be variances among sensors and firearms, blanket statements that it can't be adjusted for sensitivity are provably false.
I can trigger the current production Piet I have as well as 1810 and 1820 based switches I built myself on Trigger level 8, a 1830 I can't shake hard enough but need to impact it to trigger. It takes more effort on 8 than 1 and this is easily testable for anyone who wishes to try for themselves. If anyone has an 1810 they can't set off on Level 8 it's possibly mislabeled, I'm not a gorilla and can do it on multiple examples I've assembled.
The TLDR is YES the Trigger level setting does effect how much movement is needed to trigger a reading. Where you place the sensor will also affect how much movement the trigger is exposed to. There will be variances among sensors and firearms, blanket statements that it can't be adjusted for sensitivity are provably false.
My earlier post with the link lists examples of how you can adjust the sensitivity by where it goes on the gun, and what attitude the switch is to the recoil.
The SW series comes in three sensitivities:
18010P = most sensitive.
18020P = medium.
18030P = least sensitive.
I have tried all three and settled on the 18010, most sensitive, for short barreled .22's up.
Focussing on 'blanket statements are false' is a 'straw man' argument. Let's cycle back to the original, can you adjust a vibration trigger using the Labradar Trigger level - No.
OK guys, take my ideas if you like, or not, it's up to you. I will leave 65 to have the last word.
This thread has been heisted LOL
Yes, it doesn't say vibration/movement trigger....but neither does it say microphone either. Just says external trigger and my personal experience is that it did effect the way my unit triggered from the vib/movement trigger.
But, I wrote to them and asked...we will see what they say.
But, I wrote to them and asked...we will see what they say.
I just got 3 of those USB magnetic adapters for $11 on Amazon, delivered next day! No current issues with the port, but it seems like simple
insurance to keep things running smooth. Very strong magnets used.
insurance to keep things running smooth. Very strong magnets used.
Lots of manipulations have unintended consequences. Subsequent to using the magnetic USB port, I realized the stiff rubber cover of the power-trigger port site was such that its inherent tension would displace the magnetic connection after several rounds. Today, I used a razor blade to release the tension of the rubber cover as well as used a paper hole punch to allow the magnetic adapter to be exposed, thus allowing the cover to fit flush to cover the trigger port. Problem solved.
