I bought 100 rds of 30-06 lapua brass expecting great brass. I sized in a FL RCBS die, no trim needed, turned necks(RCBS turner with brand new pilot perfect fit ), checked flash-holes, weight sorted and started checking neck runout. I found about 10% under .005 and the rest were .006-.007 out. My first thought was I had a die problem so I checked about 30 rds of FED. after sizing and turning it was all under .002. I dont think I should have to fire form new brass to correct this prob. Thats a lot of powder to burn after spending $100.00 on new brass. Has anyone ever ran into this problem and what should I do about it?
- Thread starter gunner52
- Start date
Re: Lapua brass
Turned the necks with a new pilot?
Run some Fed brass thru that same pilot and then see what happens.
Lapua brass is usually hard to fault.
Turned the necks with a new pilot?
Run some Fed brass thru that same pilot and then see what happens.
Lapua brass is usually hard to fault.
Re: Lapua brass
I ran the FED brass through the same setup as the Lapua. I really thought I had a bad die or pilot. Both are just fine. Pilot fits snug inside both brands of brass. Not tight but touching. The size of the neck button brings the neck out to .3065 and the pilot is .306. Im confused and cant help but think I did something wrong but some of the Lapua is just fine. About 1 out of 10. ???
I ran the FED brass through the same setup as the Lapua. I really thought I had a bad die or pilot. Both are just fine. Pilot fits snug inside both brands of brass. Not tight but touching. The size of the neck button brings the neck out to .3065 and the pilot is .306. Im confused and cant help but think I did something wrong but some of the Lapua is just fine. About 1 out of 10. ???
Re: Lapua brass
Do you have any from the lot that you haven't processed? Measure their runout and see what it is. Secondly, do you have a tight neck chamber? Lapua brass is usually good to go without turning necks. You could have gotten a bad batch, but you might have checked them before you went off turning the necks.
Josh
Do you have any from the lot that you haven't processed? Measure their runout and see what it is. Secondly, do you have a tight neck chamber? Lapua brass is usually good to go without turning necks. You could have gotten a bad batch, but you might have checked them before you went off turning the necks.
Josh
Re: Lapua brass
Necks were out about .0015 before turned. Had to take off very little. May have just gotten a bad batch as you said. I didnt even think about checking runout before turning because it never crossed my mind that they there might be a prob. Yes I have a tight chamber so turning is a must. Thanks for the help.
Necks were out about .0015 before turned. Had to take off very little. May have just gotten a bad batch as you said. I didnt even think about checking runout before turning because it never crossed my mind that they there might be a prob. Yes I have a tight chamber so turning is a must. Thanks for the help.
Re: Lapua brass
What's your load info?? Bullet, powder and charge?? Compressed loads??
What dies are you using??? The Redding comp seater or forster ultra seaters tend to be better than most dies. Unless you're using a wilson inline or something similar.
My personal experience: For some reason after neck turning the new brass runout is worse than if I just loaded as is. The further down to the shoulder neck junction you turn the worse it will be. HOWEVER, after the first firing (on the neck turned brass) and each subsequent reload my loaded runout has been .002-.001" TIR on the sinclair gauge with very very few greater than .003" TIR.
In addition, I don't know why, but neck sizing first then bumping the shoulders back in that order made a significant difference for me in reducting my loaded round runout. YMMV.
Try staying away from high neck tension and compressed loads.
You can either try and "correct" the initial runout on the new brass, or wait till after the first firing....I try not to "correct" loaded run out if I can. I'd rather not have the problem to begin with. Having said that, the NECO cartridge alignment tool is fairly inexpensive and works well for me. It's simple enough it might even be cheaper to make one out of wood by yourself... if you have questions about it send me a pm.
What's your load info?? Bullet, powder and charge?? Compressed loads??
What dies are you using??? The Redding comp seater or forster ultra seaters tend to be better than most dies. Unless you're using a wilson inline or something similar.
My personal experience: For some reason after neck turning the new brass runout is worse than if I just loaded as is. The further down to the shoulder neck junction you turn the worse it will be. HOWEVER, after the first firing (on the neck turned brass) and each subsequent reload my loaded runout has been .002-.001" TIR on the sinclair gauge with very very few greater than .003" TIR.
In addition, I don't know why, but neck sizing first then bumping the shoulders back in that order made a significant difference for me in reducting my loaded round runout. YMMV.
Try staying away from high neck tension and compressed loads.
You can either try and "correct" the initial runout on the new brass, or wait till after the first firing....I try not to "correct" loaded run out if I can. I'd rather not have the problem to begin with. Having said that, the NECO cartridge alignment tool is fairly inexpensive and works well for me. It's simple enough it might even be cheaper to make one out of wood by yourself... if you have questions about it send me a pm.
