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[LRI]

A 300 Norma we just finished up. 22" on the stick and it finished out at 9lbs.

Thanks for lookin'.

LRI

 

[screaminweasil]

Badass

 

[Tokay444]

Is that all Cerakote?

 

[drglock]

That’s one sweet looking rig.

 

[LRI]

Is that all Cerakote?

Yes.

 

[Tokay444]

How much buildup per side is there and how evenly can you control distribution?
I’m surprised to see it on the shoulder of the barrel.
Do you remove material in critical mating areas before applying, like in the dovetail of the scope base, bolt bore?

 

[jbell]

I’m surprised to see it on the shoulder of the barrel.

I am not in a position to critique LRI’s work in any way, but I too was surprised to see it on the shoulder of the barrel. Obviously you have tested it and found no ill effects, but I generally don’t want any paint or coating on the mating surfaces.

 

[Hattrick]

Nice looking rig. I bet that will kill at both ends

 

[Keeper22]

That's a sharp rifle.

 

[Tsovern]

Well this was certainly an eye-opening thread

 

[LRI]

How much buildup per side is there and how evenly can you control distribution?
I’m surprised to see it on the shoulder of the barrel.
Do you remove material in critical mating areas before applying, like in the dovetail of the scope base, bolt bore?

"I am not in a position to critique LRI’s work in any way, but I too was surprised to see it on the shoulder of the barrel. Obviously you have tested it and found no ill effects, but I generally don’t want any paint or coating on the mating surfaces."


Ok, to answer some of this:

1. We've never had an issue with it fitting in the dovetail.

2. The receiver bore:

The photo is my Sunnen MBB 1660 hone. The kind of machine used to resize connecting rods, hone a small engine cylinder, etc... The 2nd photo is a Sunnen diamond hone that I have made capable of resizing an interrupted hole, such as a receiver bore that is EDM or broach cut for raceways. A conventional mandrel cannot do this work because the stones/shoes hang up on the raceway, and the tooling effectively kills itself.

Cerakote is advertised to apply at a .001" film thickness. (1 mil) Experience has taught me that this is not always the case. Pigment saturation varies with colors. Blacks go on nice and thin, were's earth tones generally require more to achieve hiding. Honing the cylinder of the receiver allows for the appropriate bolt/receiver fit to be restored once the coating is applied. This is a rabbit hole I went down a decade ago. The analogy I use is that if I were to paint someone's car, I'd fully expect to be peeled like an onion if I didn't paint door jambs, deck lid undersides, etc... I see this as no different, and I've taken extensive measures to ensure that things still work to standard. I get where a lot of folks see this as alarming. To my knowledge, I am the only one who's made this effort. Folks who disagree are welcome to their opinion, but with ten years of proof behind us, there's no reason for me to change it.

3. The coating on the shoulder of the barrel: (Spare barrel) When I took the pictures, the parts had just come out of the paint dept. As clearly shown, no assembly work had taken place yet. The standard practice is to fixture the barrel in the Hardinge lathe and capture the thread tennon with a collet. Knocking the coating off the shoulder takes mere seconds with a diamond lap. It's far safer/faster to do this than try and mask the face or thread something up to the shoulder, as you'll always end up with a meniscus film prone to chipping/erosion along the edges when you unscrew it.

Good talk.


C.

 

[Tokay444]

Thanks for confirming.

 

[jbell]

"I am not in a position to critique LRI’s work in any way, but I too was surprised to see it on the shoulder of the barrel. Obviously you have tested it and found no ill effects, but I generally don’t want any paint or coating on the mating surfaces."


3. The coating on the shoulder of the barrel: (Spare barrel) When I took the pictures, the parts had just come out of the paint dept. As clearly shown, no assembly work had taken place yet. The standard practice is to fixture the barrel in the Hardinge lathe and capture the thread tennon with a collet. Knocking the coating off the shoulder takes mere seconds with a diamond lap. It's far safer/faster to do this than try and mask the face or thread something up to the shoulder, as you'll always end up with a meniscus film prone to chipping/erosion along the edges when you unscrew it.

View attachment 8032334


Good talk.

Right on, I did not mean to question your method. I was just curious and this is what I expected to hear. Good stuff.

 

[Reload10]

@LongRifles Inc. what cerakote code is the barreled action? Looks great!!

 

[mi223]

One thing I highly respect about LRI is Chad isn't afraid to tell what is in the secret sauce. Shows lots of confidence in their abilities. And rightfully so.

 

[jbell]

One thing I highly respect about LRI is Chad isn't afraid to tell what is in the secret sauce. Shows lots of confidence in their abilities. And rightfully so.

Agreed, I have always respected that

 

[Mike Casselton]

One thing I highly respect about LRI is Chad isn't afraid to tell what is in the secret sauce. Shows lots of confidence in their abilities. And rightfully so.

What I like even more is old threads on other web sites where people (other gunsmiths) told him his methods were unsound.
Many of those people are now doing the same type of work...

 

[Lawnboi]

Iv got a few rifles that LRI coated. They do a really good job.

I appreciate the level of detail they put into it.

This thread makes me want to bring you guys more stuff. Gives me an excuse to come shoot some prairie dogs

 

[schmi015]

Can't wait to see the other 300 norma you're working on with the pattern X.