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Lee Press challenges

DocRDS

Head Maffs Monkey
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 21, 2012
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The Great Beyond
Been doing my reloading on a Lee single stage, (I think it's the cast iron). Anyway as a new reloader over the last few years it has given my fits trying to bump 2 thou. For a while I said f it and just screwed the die all the way down

After 20 videos, a brand new mitouyo caliper, and a healthy attitude I tried again and again it was all over the place. First my brass was growing, then we were at -7 thou and finally I landed at a consistent 2 thou. I thought I had it set, but then the bump got larger and larger...
After 20 pieces its settled in 2 thou each time

I lock that mofo down. (hornady locking ring)

Measure every piece, consistent 2 thou. Chamber Guage, mostly in, but not perfect, by my rifle chambers it. My sized brass never fits guages.

Go to remove die and it's stuck in the collet via the locking ring(screw in adapter your die screws in to) so I have to loosen the locking ring and then of course loose my setting. (Beleive me I tried alternatives)

Words were said. Foul words. I'm already worried with tolerance stacking of locking ring, die, press, but I seem to be the only idiot with this problem and I can't figure out why this is so damn hard. Maybe it's the die too...Hornady precision die (full length). I had this issue with a redding as well on 308

I'm good with calipers, that's not the issue. I'm fairly dexterous with my fingers and have moderate mechanical skill.

Is it the die? Press?

I need some extra guidance as ever video does it in like 5 minutes and apparently I'm a retard

edit: less ragey now and stupid phone autocorrect.
 
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I used a Lee classic cast for years and had no problems with it at all. I actually still use it some these days. I’d guess you’ve got user/measurement problems. How are you measuring your bump? What kind of brass are you using? You really don’t need to “lock” the die down. Just adjust it until you get the bump you want and then make the ring touch so the die can turn easily. Really if you’re cranking down on the locking ring you’re probably changing your bump with that. I let the die “float” with only the rubber O ring of the locking ring touching the press. It’s not going to move unless you turn it. Think of this as art rather than mechanics and it will get easier.
 
I used a Lee classic cast for years and had no problems with it at all. I actually still use it some these days. I’d guess you’ve got user/measurement problems. How are you measuring your bump? What kind of brass are you using? You really don’t need to “lock” the die down. Just adjust it until you get the bump you want and then make the ring touch so the die can turn easily. Really if you’re cranking down on the locking ring you’re probably changing your bump with that. I let the die “float” with only the rubber O ring of the locking ring touching the press. It’s not going to move unless you turn it. Think of this as art rather than mechanics and it will get easier.
Rubber O ring? (I've got metal to metal)

I measure with the Hornady Comparator (digital). I've got 3 calipers and I practiced getting consistent reads on all between loaded rounds and once fire brass, as well as new brass vs fired. This was startline brass 6.5 Creed (one fired) and annealed, deprimed.

Now the press...that thing mystifies me. I probably was crazy with tightening it down, But it was finger tight until I did did the allen head in the ring. I've also had problems with the die backing out in the past, so I probably was aggressive.

Well at least its not the press. Still very frustarting, but I appreciate the insight.
 
Rubber O ring? (I've got metal to metal)

I measure with the Hornady Comparator (digital). I've got 3 calipers and I practiced getting consistent reads on all between loaded rounds and once fire brass, as well as new brass vs fired. This was startline brass 6.5 Creed (one fired) and annealed, deprimed.

Now the press...that thing mystifies me. I probably was crazy with tightening it down, But it was finger tight until I did did the allen head in the ring. I've also had problems with the die backing out in the past, so I probably was aggressive.

Well at least its not the press. Still very frustarting, but I appreciate the insight.
Rubber O Ring...I think he was assuming you were using Lee dies .
If you tightened the lock ring set screw while the ring was cranked down very tight that would explain the binding .
 
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Rubber O ring? (I've got metal to metal)

I measure with the Hornady Comparator (digital). I've got 3 calipers and I practiced getting consistent reads on all between loaded rounds and once fire brass, as well as new brass vs fired. This was startline brass 6.5 Creed (one fired) and annealed, deprimed.

Now the press...that thing mystifies me. I probably was crazy with tightening it down, But it was finger tight until I did did the allen head in the ring. I've also had problems with the die backing out in the past, so I probably was aggressive.

Well at least its not the press. Still very frustarting, but I appreciate the insight.
Yea I use lock rings with rubber O-rings on them. I forgot a lot of dies use the clamp. I toss those and put ones with an O-ring on. The clamps are a pain in the ass, especially if you’re loading for different rifles. With the O-ring you can easily adjust it and then make it touch the press and it allows the die to float and keeps it from going out or in by itself. If you’re going to use the clamp, turn the die and the clamp ring back a hair together before tightening it and it won’t bind the die up. That does make it harder to set the headspace though.

The Hornady comparator can be finicky for sure if you’re not really careful/consistent with how you’re working it. If you can get consistent readings on new brass you’re prob fine there. How much is the headspace expanding from new to fired?
 
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I'm assuming the fired primer is being removed before taking fired H.S. measurements ,if not do so.

Index marks with a sharpie marker on press , lock ring ,and die can be helpful

The advice about backing die and lock ring out a tad before tightening lock ring is spot on.......see sharpie advice above
 
Yes indeed, I also give the case a spin to make sure everything is tight. I'll give the sharpie a try

I have an old analog mitouyo a new digital and a cheapo NI that all agree on measurement, so fairly certain that part is good. That comparator can be a pita, but I don't see any clear alternatives.

It's probably my die setup, the sizing die has always given me fits. Seating I have micrometers, so it's easy mode

That Hornady locking ring has maybe 1/8 turn on the set screw from loose to tight. No way to get it so it's tough to move and get small increments
 

 
With the die rings, once you get the die set for your proper bump, tighten the die lock ring screw lightly. Carefully loosen the die a tiny bit using a wrench on the die ring, just to get some wiggle room. Then tighten the die lock screw tight. You then always tighten the die into the press using a wrench on the lock ring to where it is just snug and it will not move. Don't over tighten, just snug where it won't loosen or move when using it. Just finger pressure will not lock the properly, it can wiggle loose and throw things off.

As far as shoulder bump, not using enough or improper case lube will give you shoulder bumps all over the place.
 
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Could this possibly have anything to due with the case lube? It seems I've read about insufficient or varying amounts of case lube can cause issues like this. Maybe I'm wrong, but it's just a thought.

P.S. I'm still learning about this precision stuff, so I'm always interested in learning whatever I can about it.

^^^^^Above poster beat me to it, and posted while I was typing. 😁
 
With the die rings, once you get the die set for your proper bump, tighten the die lock ring screw lightly. Carefully loosen the die a tiny bit using a wrench on the die ring, just to get some wiggle room. Then tighten the die lock screw tight. You then always tighten the die into the press using a wrench on the lock ring to where it is just snug and it will not move. Don't over tighten, just snug where it won't loosen or move when using it. Just finger pressure will not lock the properly, it can wiggle loose and throw things off.

As far as shoulder bump, not using enough or improper case lube will give you shoulder bumps all over the place.
This execpt I don't use a wrench to tighten my dies into my presses. Not saying I think there is anything wrong with it. I do always tighten and loosen the dies by the rock ring.
 
I worry very little about shoulder bump. I've tried hard over the years to get it dead nuts but still get a little variance. That said, .007 seems like a lot.

It could be the piece that you are using to setup sizing is very hard, from repeated firing, and is springing back. The next piece could be softer is setting a little shorter.

One thing that has helped consistency is making sure the die touches the shellholder, annealing, consistent lube, and a consistent stroke of the handle.
 
With the die rings, once you get the die set for your proper bump, tighten the die lock ring screw lightly. Carefully loosen the die a tiny bit using a wrench on the die ring, just to get some wiggle room. Then tighten the die lock screw tight. You then always tighten the die into the press using a wrench on the lock ring to where it is just snug and it will not move. Don't over tighten, just snug where it won't loosen or move when using it. Just finger pressure will not lock the properly, it can wiggle loose and throw things off.

As far as shoulder bump, not using enough or improper case lube will give you shoulder bumps all over the place.
I use imperial wax, the main culprit is my expander ball. I have to lube the inside neck of the case or the pull gets really hard.

Externally, a dab every 2-3 rounds seems fine,

I've thought about mandrels as I'm very suspicious of the ball causing issues
 
That one of the nice things about One Shot, or Lanolin and Alcohol, or other spray lubes for that matter. You can spray them down in the necks. Pulling that expander ball through a dry neck will move the shoulder quite a bit.
 
I use a Lee single stage with the breech lock bushings. I sized 8 pieces of .308 brass today with a Lee die, lubing with Imperial sizing die wax. I also wipe a little into the case mouth on the first piece, and then probably every third one after that just to keep some on the sizing stem. I run the case up into the die and hold it for a second, then lower the ram and rotate the case 180⁰ and run it up again and hold for a second.

All 8 pieces were within .001" of each other on the shoulder using a Hornady comparator.

These were Remington cases that were not annealed.
 
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I use imperial wax, the main culprit is my expander ball. I have to lube the inside neck of the case or the pull gets really hard.

Externally, a dab every 2-3 rounds seems fine,

I've thought about mandrels as I'm very suspicious of the ball causing issues
There is an easy way to lube case and the id of the necks.
image.jpg


A little lee lube cut with alcohol in a bag with brass then shake. Let it dry completely or it will dent neck/shoulder junctions. You can also wipe the neck shoulder junction if you don’t wana wait to dry.

2D80791D-E73C-4745-863D-E7043538A256.jpeg
697E6410-FD41-4E84-8842-ADE57D8799A5.jpeg


I love these things. If you have multiple rChambers with different headspace, you can set the die and just change the shell holder. Basically, you can size to different headspace is without having to fuck with the die. You also can get a little cam over which in my opinion helps with consistency

Going back to your original comment are you saying you got the Collett stuck in the press from the lock ring impeading its release and lost your bump? If so, use Lee lock rings, they will not interfere with the Collett release. I also turn mine so the collet locks into it’s intended threads.
image.jpg
 
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There is an easy way to lube case and the id of the necks.
View attachment 8091510

A little lee lube cut with alcohol in a bag with brass then shake. Let it dry completely or it will dent neck/shoulder junctions. You can also wipe the neck shoulder junction if you don’t wana wait to dry.

View attachment 8091512View attachment 8091511

I love these things. If you have multiple rChambers with different headspace, you can set the die and just change the shell holder. Basically, you can size to different headspace is without having to fuck with the die. You also can get a little cam over which in my opinion helps with consistency

Going back to your original comment are you saying you got the Collett stuck in the press from the lock ring impeading its release and lost your bump? If so, use Lee lock rings, they will not interfere with the Collett release. I also turn mine so the collet locks into it’s intended threads. View attachment 8091514
Good tips, however I may be mistaken, but lee presses don't cam over. (Or maybe I fubard mine)
 
Good tips, however I may be mistaken, but lee presses don't cam over. (Or maybe I fubard mine)
It allows the ram to contact the shell holder before the lever bottoms out. I thought that was cam over.

If have a mis understanding of terminology, my bad.
 
Gotcha---yes thats part of the issue with the .002 bump in that there is no way to get a hard stop w/o those special shell holders (maybe its me that is incorrect). I may be giving them a try.