I find a lot of varying information on this subject. Buttoning up my AR10 build and ready to go break it in but I still need to torque on the rifle length buffer tube. I see various torque specs and some people using locktite or aeroshell or neither. Is there a general consensus on what works good?
Gunsmithing Loctite or grease on Rifle Length buffer tube?
- Thread starter Len5E1
- Start date
Aero shell and stake the castle nut to keep it from backing off.
Okay, so educate me a bit. Not knowing what Aeroshell is, I looked it up. Apparently Aeroshell is a complete line of lubricants including light oils, gear oils and greases. So which product is it that you are using?
Areoshell 33ms I believe.
Thanks guys! Good info. 
I've always screwed them in tight. Then tighten a bit more. Then they stay right where I left them.
Sometimes life is simpler than we make it...
Sometimes life is simpler than we make it...
Thanks for the replies guys. As one person noticed, this is rifle length so no castle nut. A local gunsmith said what some of you did, just tighten it with a wrench nice and snug and dont give it any thought. I'm using a JP silent capture spring so it can be removed as well as the PRS stock without touching the tube. So the only reason I would ever have to replace the tube is if something happened to it or I wanted to convert to a carbine or something. I think dry might be best, the local smith mentioned loctite not being needed because it's not going to go anywhere even if I wanted it to after a few rounds. So the only decision I need to make is if I should do a very light aeroshell or not, but I don't think I can go wrong either way and I'm leaning towards the dry method since removing the tube won't be of any concern to me any time soon.
There is almost no reason to ever assembled a threaded connection without any type of anti-seize/lube/threadlocker on the threads. Every application will benefit from something different, but there's almost no application where you specifically want dry thread-to-thread contact. In my profession, almost every threaded connection uses threadlocker (blue/red) or anti-seize (usually molykote p-37). Threadlocker is used on semi-permanent/permanent joints where we want to prevent the threads from backing out due to use/vibration/shock, and anti-seize is used for joints where maintenance procedures dictate frequent removal or where the threads are used for adjustment (i.e. power screw). In either case, the threadlocker or anti-seize will provide a protective film for the male/female threads, and serve as a lubricant to help achieve a proper torque.
In this case I would use blue loctite as some others have mentioned. A few properly applied drops of blue loctite should not give you any sort of trouble removing the buffer tube in the future. I usually find that blue-loctited joints are actually easier to remove/disassemble than a dry connection because the loctite will prevent corrosion and better maintain the torque/preload of the joint over time and use.
In this case I would use blue loctite as some others have mentioned. A few properly applied drops of blue loctite should not give you any sort of trouble removing the buffer tube in the future. I usually find that blue-loctited joints are actually easier to remove/disassemble than a dry connection because the loctite will prevent corrosion and better maintain the torque/preload of the joint over time and use.
I’ve had them loosen from just tightening. I clean up both surfaces and apply some blue loctite and let it cure overnight before adding any lube to that area of the gun. Blue loctite is plenty since that area doesn’t see a lot of heat.
It’s always funny when people act like you can’t get sometime apart once you loctite it. 20 seconds or so of a heat gun on low is all it takes for a buffer tube with blue loctite to come right off as easily as it went on. I loctite almost every threaded part on a gun and I don’t have shit loosening up, and I’ve never had a problem getting anything apart either.
It’s always funny when people act like you can’t get sometime apart once you loctite it. 20 seconds or so of a heat gun on low is all it takes for a buffer tube with blue loctite to come right off as easily as it went on. I loctite almost every threaded part on a gun and I don’t have shit loosening up, and I’ve never had a problem getting anything apart either.
I don't think anyone ever said you couldn't get it off if you use a thread locker. Just don't see the need for it when putting an extension tube on.
Loctite - provides thread lubrication, corrosion protection, prevents threads from backing out or coming loose during use/vibration/recoil
Anti-seize - provides thread lubrication, corrosion protection, prevents threads from seizing
Neither - dry thread contact, no corrosion protection, prone to backing out, prone to seizing (obviously won't back out and seize)
I see two good choices, and one poor choice, but people are entitled to make their own decisions!
Anti-seize - provides thread lubrication, corrosion protection, prevents threads from seizing
Neither - dry thread contact, no corrosion protection, prone to backing out, prone to seizing (obviously won't back out and seize)
I see two good choices, and one poor choice, but people are entitled to make their own decisions!
Install an a rifle buffer tube with just some grease or anti seize and run a couple thousand rounds through it and let me know how you fair. Unless you're severely over torquing it, it will most likely be loose. I've experienced them loosening which is why I loctite them.
Why do you think any builder that has a clue as well as any quality manufacturer stake castle nuts that have the same torque spec? Because they will come loose if you don't.
There's no good reason NOT to use thread locker in almost any application.
You can weld it on for all I care. Personally, dozens of ARs over many years, in all calibers, rifle/carbine, factory/self built and not one has ever had thread locker, come loose, suffered corrosion or seized and couldn't be removed.
It's either that or white grease, wanna say white grease, that's in the M16A1 armory manual.
But after seeing how the SF gunsmith (not an armorer) assembled 'em I'd say it really doesn't matter, and I'm positive each of you puts more detail into than he did so I wouldn't worry too much about it if he doesn't. You do wanna use grease between steel and aluminum though. Or anti seize.
Not a big fan of loctiting aluminum to aluminum and never had a fixed stock or a staked carbine stock come loose anyway. The bolt in the rear of the fixed stock and the keyed portion that fits into the lower prevents it from backing out. Most of mine just get a drop of CLP or TW25B if it's around.
There is a non hardening Loctite too, green I think (careful, one brand uses green as tougher than red). But snot would probably work just as well.
loctite green is high strength bearing adhesive....its not something youd ever wanna use on screws......you have to heat it with a blowtorch to remove it.
but yeah.....frankly it doesnt really matter much one way or the other what you use......dry, grease, oil, antiseize.....youre not going to notice a difference.
Vibra Tite VC-3 is a non hardening thread locker. Used it a lot on muzzle devices for suppressors at demos.
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