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Suppressors Loctite?

slayer 2c

slayer 2c

Still working on it
Full Member
Minuteman
    • Jan 18, 2011
    513
    276
    Lost.........
    Sooooo I have a Omega suppressor from SilencerCo. I seem to have a problem with my end caps coming loose during firing. I've never had a strike and want to keep it that way. Would I hurt the suppressor if I used LOW strength Loctite on it? I work in the automotive industry and know the difference so no worries there but I don't want to damage the can.
     
    slayer 2c said:
    Sooooo I have a Omega suppressor from SilencerCo. I seem to have a problem with my end caps coming loose during firing. I've never had a strike and want to keep it that way. Would I hurt the suppressor if I used LOW strength Loctite on it? I work in the automotive industry and know the difference so no worries there but I don't want to damage the can.
    Click to expand...

    I’m not sure it can withstand the heat
     
    I'm not familiar with the omega so I don't know what cal it is intended to be used on. Loctite won't hurt anything but depending on the heat buildup you get it may not help either. Blue low strength loctite softens at under 200 deg F so if this is a rifle can its a good chance it won't help. Red loctite softens at 400 deg plus and will be pretty tough to get loose if you need to later.

    Frank
     
    biffj said:
    I'm not familiar with the omega so I don't know what cal it is intended to be used on. Loctite won't hurt anything but depending on the heat buildup you get it may not help either. Blue low strength loctite softens at under 200 deg F so if this is a rifle can its a good chance it won't help. Red loctite softens at 400 deg plus and will be pretty tough to get loose if you need to later.

    Frank
    Click to expand...

    Shit your right...I totally forgot about the heat levels. That's not going to work at all.

    Any suggestions?. I really don't want to make it a permanent part on my suppressor. but blue won't work as I planned. good looking out Biff
     
    slayer 2c said:
    Shit your right...I totally forgot about the heat levels. That's not going to work at all.

    Any suggestions?. I really don't want to make it a permanent part on my suppressor. but blue won't work as I planned. good looking out Biff
    Click to expand...
    Call sico
     
    slayer 2c said:
    Shit your right...I totally forgot about the heat levels. That's not going to work at all.

    Any suggestions?. I really don't want to make it a permanent part on my suppressor. but blue won't work as I planned. good looking out Biff
    Click to expand...


    Goes to 650° F https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1134601-Tensile-Strength-Temperature/dp/B004RIDDP0

    I imagine there is a range over where it is still dampening but not locked but I am only speculating.

    1864EE52-D85D-4186-9B81-BA23585C5978.jpeg
     
    Last edited:
    Ceramic threadlocker. Lowest breakaway 80 inch lbs. rated to 2100° F

    www.mcmaster.com

    McMaster-Carr

    McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
    www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com


    F648D575-E88F-48F9-9DA4-7D3271B0E8B5.jpeg
     
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    I love you guys...... always helping me stay out of trouble with my wife!!!!

    "yes honey I need the $48 threadlocker I may only use once.......it's for safety!!!!"


    :)
     
    What does the manufacturer recommend to hold the cap in place? I have used Loctite products for many years. "In General" for every good characteristic of Loctite, there is always a negative characteristic. The automotive industry's focus is on holding it together until after the warranty runs out. Perhaps the part could be pinned, snap ringed, peened, set screwed, keeper wired or any number of mechanical fasteners that would allow removal for service. For an item to cost $800+ it should perform flawlessly..... Just a thought.
     
    slayer 2c said:
    I love you guys...... always helping me stay out of trouble with my wife!!!!

    "yes honey I need the $48 threadlocker I may only use once.......it's for safety!!!!"


    :)
    Click to expand...

    What is the cost of a strike? To me 48 is cheap to protect my can. I might try some of this. They also sell those bottles. If it transfers to another container without kicking off, I’d sell you a smaller amount.
     
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    Hobo Hilton said:
    What does the manufacturer recommend to hold the cap in place? I have used Loctite products for many years. "In General" for every good characteristic of Loctite, there is always a negative characteristic.
    Click to expand...

    Truth! That said, if it were not for blue loctite my big VTwin would leave a trail of dead? bikers with parts in their bodies, that had vibrated off my bike......?
     
    I recently had an issue with my Hyrbid where the tube was rotating around the core. I had previously used red-loctite on the rear adapter and end cap. I let the ends soak in mineral spirits/acetone. Then applied direct heat to the ends with a blow torch. They were a little difficult and needed some hammering on the Hybrid adapter tool to get them off.

    I red loctited the threads from the core back to the tube. This was advice given by SilencerCo.

    I currently have the end cap and rear adapter blue loctite but will probably go back to a less liberable amount of red loctite than previously used on the front cap and rear adapter
     
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    blbennett1288 said:
    I recently had an issue with my Hyrbid where the tube was rotating around the core. I had previously used red-loctite on the rear adapter and end cap. I let the ends soak in mineral spirits/acetone. Then applied direct heat to the ends with a blow torch. They were a little difficult and needed some hammering on the Hybrid adapter tool to get them off.

    I red loctited the threads from the core back to the tube. This was advise given by SilencerCo.

    I currently have the end cap and rear adapter blue loctite but will probably go back to a less liberable amount of red loctite than previously used on the front cap and rear adapter
    Click to expand...

    Were you using 272? As you can see here that only goes to 450° F and breaks at 200 inch lbs. as opposed to 2100° and 80 inch lbs with the ceramic.......

    D9239AF3-2B3F-4B0D-A502-0CFBDF06CEB4.jpeg
     
    slayer 2c said:
    I figured it was my question that kicked it off, it was the least I could do!!!

    Shipping info says I should have it Tuesday, range day on Wednesday report to follow
    Click to expand...

    You're a good man! My guess is clean the parts well. I would start with a small amount and work up as needed....
     
    blbennett1288 said:
    I believe I used 271, but I dont have the bottle sitting right in front of me.

    If I have issues with the core and tube again i'll switch to the ceramic.
    Click to expand...

    I don’t have any experience with the ceramic. Looks like slayer 2c is going to be our proverbial Guinea pig ......
     
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    I am not sure, could not find that anywhere. I have used it on muzzle devices and it was not too difficult to get off. I just put the upper in a vice with a reaction rod and applied a decent amount of pressure and it came off. The directions say to remove the part soak it in water and the part will come off, I did not need to do that. If I had to guess I proabably needed to put about 50ft lbs to get it off. Next time I need to take off a muzzle device I will use a torque wrench and find out.
     
    wyld3man said:
    I am not sure, could not find that anywhere. I have used it on muzzle devices and it was not too difficult to get off. I just put the upper in a vice with a reaction rod and applied a decent amount of pressure and it came off. The directions say to remove the part soak it in water and the part will come off, I did not need to do that. If I had to guess I proabably needed to put about 50ft lbs to get it off. Next time I need to take off a muzzle device I will use a torque wrench and find out.
    Click to expand...


    That would be good info. 50 foot lbs sounds about like red loctite.

    The stuff he is trying is about 80 INCH lbs. Blue 242 is 70 inch lbs. So the hope is the ceramic stuff he is trying is super high temp blue.

    488C599C-9D2A-4EC0-B157-F80C3FBBD913.jpeg
     
    Without any reference I would say loctite bonds better however, where it is good is in high temp areas. Rocksett has a max temp of 2000 degrees, thats why I use it on muzzle devices, and it’s about $10.
     
    Last edited:
    Should be here today. My plan is to get home and apply it right away, it calls for 24 hrs of cure time and then to the range tomorrow afternoon. Going to run through a few dot drills and positional practices and then check to see if she comes loose again.

    Rocksett I have used for my ASR brake on my rifles. I've never had to remove them but get the impression that it is harder to remove than I really want. My problem is that the Brake end cap on my Omega 300 keeps coming loose, but I want the option of an easy removal to install my Non-brake end cap should I decide to go that way in the future.
     
    Hopefully you won't really need a solid locking adhesive for your can. If the endcaps are coming loose it shouldn't take much to prevent it. If you do need to get them apart having too much is worse than not enough. 50 ft/lb is a lot of torque and makes holding the tube without damaging it difficult. 80 in/lb is a lot closer to what is needed. 50rds of 338 Lapua mag rapid fire got my suppressor up to about 800 deg and that is hot. Normal operating temps should be more in the 300-400deg range. Rocksett is a good locker and water will soften it at room temp....and is recommended to prevent excessive torque being needed.
    A simple solution if your can is actively trying to disassemble itself is a set screw through the side of the tube into the endcap. They won't unscrew unless you want them to. The important thing is to no overdo. Charred blue loctite will still hold against vibration unscrewing the endcap and if that doesn't do it talk to the manufacturer. There may be a problem like threads that are cut too deep.....

    Frank
     
    slayer 2c said:
    Thanks. I'm going to try the 80 in/lbs stuff and see what I get.
    Click to expand...


    slayer 2c said:
    Should be here today. My plan is to get home and apply it right away, it calls for 24 hrs of cure time and then to the range tomorrow afternoon. Going to run through a few dot drills and positional practices and then check to see if she comes loose again.
    Click to expand...


    Careful, “reaches full strength” is “72hrs”........ It only “begins to harden” at 24hrs.



    590E776C-20CC-4683-ABD3-FC739368BE32.jpeg
     
    https://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-15014-High-Temperature-Rocksett/dp/B001C1D800 (edit, just saw its not a prime thing, has 9 dollar shipping which makes it the same price as everywhere else you can find it)
    7073566


    Youll end up using it much more frequently when you have some on hand. It only takes the tiniest little drop to keep that end cap on once its torqued.

    I just changed out 7 asr brakes to 419 adapters. I soaked the old asr brakes barrel down in a cup of water over night. Put the wrench on them in the morning and a quick tap with the hammer had them broken loose no problem.
     
    Last edited:
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    biffj said:
    A simple solution if your can is actively trying to disassemble itself is a set screw through the side of the tube into the endcap. They won't unscrew unless you want them to.
    Click to expand...

    This is what I have been considering on one of my cans.....
     
    Max said:
    Careful, “reaches full strength” is “72hrs”........ It only “begins to harden” at 24hrs.



    View attachment 7073537
    Click to expand...



    OOOO Saved my bacon once again!! So range report coming on Sunday ;) I guess I'm going loud tomorrow!!!

    @spife7980


    While I like the idea of easy, I like the 80 in/lbs, no soak, no hammer needed approach even better!!

    But this is untested to date. we shall see soon.
     
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    slayer 2c said:
    OOOO Saved my bacon once again!! So range report coming on Sunday ;) I guess I'm going loud tomorrow!!!
    Click to expand...

    Well, we will save the bacon ? for when it works. Otherwise I’m just a fool with an idea.....
     
    Last edited:
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    spife7980 said:
    https://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-15014-High-Temperature-Rocksett/dp/B001C1D800 (edit, just saw its not a prime thing, has 9 dollar shipping which makes it the same price as everywhere else you can find it)
    View attachment 7073566

    Youll end up using it much more frequently when you have some on hand. It only takes the tiniest little drop to keep that end cap on once its torqued.

    I just changed out 7 asr brakes to 419 adapters. I soaked the old asr brakes barrel down in a cup of water over night. Put the wrench on them in the morning and a quick tap with the hammer had them broken loose no problem.
    Click to expand...

    You can find it on eBay for $5 shipping
     
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    Well range report is less than stellar. Over all I shot about 80 rounds today, and while I wouldn't say it became loose, I did reach up and test it once at about the 50 round mark and it twisted without much effort at all. Now in the past with nothing on it at all the front brake end cap would actually come loose during fire that I did not see today at all. So I would call it a win, but on the weaker side. It doesn't come loose on its own, but when hot even a small amount of pressure and it will loosen right up.

    J
     
    slayer 2c said:
    Well range report is less than stellar. Over all I shot about 80 rounds today, and while I wouldn't say it became loose, I did reach up and test it once at about the 50 round mark and it twisted without much effort at all. Now in the past with nothing on it at all the front brake end cap would actually come loose during fire that I did not see today at all. So I would call it a win, but on the weaker side. It doesn't come loose on its own, but when hot even a small amount of pressure and it will loosen right up.

    J
    Click to expand...

    The good news is that in my experience Mcmaster is really good about returns. If you feel it is a "bomb" just sent it back , no RMA needed.

    That said, in your case, if these parts are not coming loose mid-session it sounds like mission accomplished. In my case I was hoping for more hold while hot but that is not a deal breaker if it locks back down after it cools.
     
    I didn't test is when cool, I will tomorrow. I got another range day in the morning. I actually was thinking about getting it real hot and then putting the wrench on it!
     
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    After a couple hundred rounds with the Hybrid’s endcaps and core loctited with 262, it has yet to budge.

    I have a barrel temp sticker on the side of the chamber and I try not to let the barrel get over 120-130 deg F. The suppressor certainly gets hotter than that, but I am unsure how hot. I just know I can’t touch it bare handed after 10 rounds lol.
     
    slayer 2c said:
    I didn't test is when cool, I will tomorrow. I got another range day in the morning. I actually was thinking about getting it real hot and then putting the wrench on it!
    Click to expand...


    Thanks for sending me some brother. Very generous of you. Looking forward to trying it out.

    Down the road I might try the the Blue 180 inch lb breakaway. If I do I will send you some......
     
    Cool! Let me know your experiences. Mine hasn't come loose since I tightened it hot. Semi auto what I would call rapid percision fire seems to be fine.
     
    blbennett1288 said:
    After a couple hundred rounds with the Hybrid’s endcaps and core loctited with 262, it has yet to budge.

    I have a barrel temp sticker on the side of the chamber and I try not to let the barrel get over 120-130 deg F. The suppressor certainly gets hotter than that, but I am unsure how hot. I just know I can’t touch it bare handed after 10 rounds lol.
    Click to expand...
    why guess the barrel temp

    Amazon.com: Helect (NOT for Human) Infrared Thermometer, Non-Contact Digital Laser Temperature Gun -58°F to 1022°F (-50°C to 550°C) with LCD Display: Industrial & Scientific

    Amazon.com: Helect (NOT for Human) Infrared Thermometer, Non-Contact Digital Laser Temperature Gun -58°F to 1022°F (-50°C to 550°C) with LCD Display: Industrial & Scientific
    www.amazon.com
    this is only linked as a suggestion there are tons of brands that could work that one is under 30 dollars . just an option
     
    slayer 2c said:
    Cool! Let me know your experiences. Mine hasn't come loose since I tightened it hot. Semi auto what I would call rapid percision fire seems to be fine.
    Click to expand...

    That is great news! Looks like it wasn't a waste of money after all. Since the bottles are 4 ounces it it actually cheaper than other stuff per ounce. It also transfers to other bottles well for group purchasing. The 1/2 ounce container I sent you will likely last me a very long time. So $48 buck divided by 8 people is pretty damn cheap.

    3A7AFCC7-4982-4966-A94A-E6492BC01D3A.png
     
    I think I've found my solution. I do like the fact that it is "tight" but not stuck. It doesn't seem to come loose, during normal use now which before was an issue.

    However should I decide to clean it or want to change the break endcap I feel like I can without an issue which is what I was looking for. Tight but not Locked!!!!!

    Overall I say good find Max.


    J
     
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    I'm thinking rocksett would be the titties here!

    The Sico cans can handle water, and all that's needed to break the bond on Rocksett is to soak it overnight in hot water, then soak it in really hot water for a few minutes before taking off and it should come off like a dream. Shouldn't take much either.

    I also think red loctite would work fine --the heat necessary to remove isn't gonna harm the can.

    I'd say you've got a few options here.
     
    slayer 2c said:
    I think I've found my solution. I do like the fact that it is "tight" but not stuck. It doesn't seem to come loose, during normal use now which before was an issue.

    However should I decide to clean it or want to change the break endcap I feel like I can without an issue which is what I was looking for. Tight but not Locked!!!!!

    Overall I say good find Max.


    J
    Click to expand...
    One drawback: I did not realize that this stuff has a shelf life of 6 months. ugh! In the 4oz quantities it is sold in, that's a problem. Obviously that is before it is applied. I spoke with the Cotronics this AM and they said: :that is the amount of time it is guaranteed for" . My guess is it will actually last a year or more if purchased fresh.

    Huge plus: I also asked Cotronics about cleanup. As you may know regular Loctite requires manual wire brush and/or methylene chloride (or as I call it methyl-death) after it is cured-> *&^$#$% !!!. This product purportedly cleans up with water-soaking after cured with boiling water accelerating the process.

    I still plan to try the blue. If this continues to work well I think a group buy disbursement once a season would be the ticket. Meanwhile I am trying to convince Cotronics to look at this market and consider packaging smaller quantities for us.....

    IMG_7978.JPG
    IMG_7979.JPG
    IMG_7980.JPG
     
    I did not see that!!!!! Well then...… Anyone else want to try some??? I'm not going to use that bottle even within a years time. You can see from the pictures that isn't a small bottle, I'm 6'4 and go about 250ish while I don't have the biggest hands I'm not dainty either :)


    I'm willing to spread the wealth, Pm me and we can work out details. Max had the perfect Bottle, maybe he can let everyone know where to get them and I can send them out!!!

    J
     
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    slayer 2c said:
    I did not see that!!!!! Well then...… Anyone else want to try some??? I'm not going to use that bottle even within a years time. You can see from the pictures that isn't a small bottle, I'm 6'4 and go about 250ish while I don't have the biggest hands I'm not dainty either :)


    I'm willing to spread the wealth, Pm me and we can work out details. Max had the perfect Bottle, maybe he can let everyone know where to get them and I can send them out!!!

    J
    Click to expand...

    Here is where I got my bottles:
    www.brownells.com

    BROWNELLS NEEDLE OILER BOTTLES | Brownells

    Polyethylene bottle with hollow, steel tube places just the right amount of lubricant, cleaner or other liquid exactly where you want it. Flexible, translucent body aids in metering the contents and allows viewing contents of bottle; resists break...
    www.brownells.com www.brownells.com
     
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