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Long Range AR-15 Build - Advice Needed

M

mjphawk

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Minuteman
Sep 19, 2013
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Boynton Beach, FL
I am planning my first AR-15 long-range build and have been combing through the archives here and elsewhere trying to educate myself. I understand that the barrel, bolt, and trigger have the biggest impact on accuracy. My biggest question concerns the receivers that will be the heart of the build. I believe I need an over-built upper to add rigidity to the upper but other than the VLTOR I am not sure which receivers are good candidates.

The gun will be shot predominantly from a bench or in the prone so I don't mind a heavier rig if it means greater accuracy potential. I will handload all ammunition. Price isn't the biggest concern but it is a consideration.

I would appreciate any critiques and/or feedback you might be able to provide.
  • Krieger 20" DCM HBAR 7.7 twist SS barrel chambered in 223 Wylde
  • JP Enhanced Bolt
  • Timney Calvin Elite Trigger
  • Seekins SP3R V3 rail
  • Seekins Low profile adj gas block
  • A2 Buffer assembly
  • Magpul PRS stock
  • LaRue QD mount scope base
  • Ergo Grip hand grip with palm shelf
  • Rifle length gas tube
  • Charging handle
Plus
  • Vltor assembled VRA-R lower receiver
  • Vltor Modular Upper Receiver (MUR)
  • Seekins BCG
Or
  • Noveske Gen 1 Forged stripped lower
  • Noveske MUR (made by Vltor) upper
  • Noveske BCG
  • JP lower parts kit
Other receivers considered:
  • JP Enterprises Billet
  • JP Enterprises forged
  • Vltor monolithic
  • Flacor
  • Alexander Arms
  • Seekins
  • LaRue
 
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Seriously, all that shit looks good. But to be quite honest, if you're going to spend that much cash on a precision AR, just have JP build the fucker for you. Let's face it, after it's all said and done, what if it doesn't meet your expectations in terms of "precision?" Where do you start?

You MIGHT pay a tad bit more (I'm not even sure about this as I got my JP-15 for 2k) by going with a complete JP build, but you will have the satisfaction of knowing a few things: 1) the rifle will be a precision rifle and 2) there's likely not going to be another AR that is more accurate.

For me, it's a piece of mind issue. Of course, I am the super proud owner of two different JP builds. After seeing the performance of my LRP-07, the JP-15 was a no-brainer.

I am sure GAP and others on here make very accurate rifles as well, but I can personally attest to JP's.
 
I would go with a Bartlein from Compass Lake. Just ordered another one from them today. Hint, they gave me the 15% off special they were running last week that expired Sunday night.. Give them a call tomorrow and I'm sure they will do the same for you.

in regards to the BCG, I can't say enough about Rubber City Armory. I picked up 4 of them a while back and been testing them heavily. They are excellent, clean up easy and tolerances are very consistent plus have a Lifetime Warranty. In speaking with Compass Lake today they agreed with me about the RCA bolts. They said they are the most consistent bolts they have seen in a long time. Told me RCA sent them 50 bolts a while back to headspace barrels but now only have 1 AR15 and 1 308 RCA bolt on hand that they headspace to because tolerances are so consistent. They don't need your bolt when making a barrel if your using RCA bolts.

In regards to receivers there are so many good choices out there. I personally use BCM uppers and thermofit the barrel to the upper.
 
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Where do you get the larger OD barrel extensions?

Google only turns up BAT machine.
 
Switch your scope mount to one that is not a vertically split design. If you plan on using hold overs, LaRue works great. If you plan on dialing (which you will shooting an AR15 long range), you will want to take that factor out of the equation. I have run LaRues in the past and never ran into issues with them dialing, but switched my AR to a Bobro mount to avoid future issues.
 
I assumed that is what you meant by thermofit. Larger OD barrel extension that requires heating the upper receiver? Looks like WOA also sells a larger 0.999" extension.

What does it mean to thermofit a barrel into a receiver?
 
No BCM (and other) upper receivers have a slightly undersized barrel extension area for a super tight barrel to upper fit. You need to heat the upper receiver where the barrel goes in with a heat gun to slip the barrel in then when it cools it creates a super tight, wobble free fit.

Taken directly from BCM's website:


Inside Diameter for barrel extension slightly undersized for a tighter fit to the barrel and a more accurate rifle. Please use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm up threaded bore of receiver if barrel extension is too tight.)
 
Dtarget said:
Where do you get the larger OD barrel extensions?

Google only turns up BAT machine.
Click to expand...

Call up Lee Wells at

accurate and reliable rifles.com
http://www.accurateandreliablerifle.com

He has them, tell him Jacob sent you, his are far Superior two BAT Barrel extensions. Also JP doesn't sell small frame Barrel extensions just large frame...

Here is a link to my build thread so you can see what they look like, it's the second one down in the picture with a mirror finish..

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forum/...p-for-the-fans
 
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I would recommend the VLTOR Upper and Seekins SP223 Ambi lower, they match up really well,

​​​​​Or or you can buy a match set, in my opinion this is the best for the money.

​​​​​​https://www.rainierarms.com/rainier-...mbo-set-mod-3/

The Noveske are overpriced IMO.

I would also ditch the LaRue mount because they just suck, if you want to Quality Quick detach Mount look at Bobro, and instead of the seekins adjustable gas block pick up a SLR.
 
Thank you for the info. Hate to say it but it never crossed my mind to get an intentionally tight receiver or over sized barrel extension. Just thought it was luck of the draw and glue/bedding was the solution for a loose fit. Will have to add this to the next build strategy.

Anyone other than BCM make tight upper receivers?

 
Dtarget said:
Thank you for the info. Hate to say it but it never crossed my mind to get an intentionally tight receiver or over sized barrel extension.
Anyone other than BCM make tight upper receivers?
Click to expand...

At the end of the day, I am told that everyone enjoys an over-sized extension and a tight receiver.

hot titties.jpg :rolleyes: :p ;)

<sorry, one of those days>

 
The only thing I'd change outside of Padom's advice, is to grab a Superlative Arms AGB instead of the seekins. Better design.
 
Thanks for all of the feedback. I have made several adjustments to my build based on the feedback received including the adjustable gas block and scope mount.

I am am not reassessing what I want for a barrel but was leaning toward the Krieger because I have a buddy with one and have had the opportunity to see it perform.

I experimented a bit with having JP do the build rather than building my own but the pricing is meaningfully higher by the time I build it out the way I would want it.

Can anyone provide input on if the over-sized barrel extension is a worthwhile upgrade if you are already starting out with a premium barrel and receiver?
 
For the receiver to barrel fit Criterion suggests Loctite 609...

Loctite ® 609™ is a low viscosity, rapid-curing anaerobic adhesive that augments the strength of press fit assemblies or slip fit assemblies up to 0.005"in diameter. Adds up to 3,000 psi holding power. Recommended for parts that will need subsequent dismantling, i.e., retention of bearings onto shafts and into housings.

Be sure to true up / lap the receiver face.

I did both on my .308 barrel change and couldn't be happier with the results.
 
Oops... I meant to edit the above post.

100yds , benched , scoped, bagged front and rear, 168gr FGMM, 7rds ( I didn't want to fubar it ) out of a filthy barrel.. 2-300rds

I'd say the Loctite 609 and receiver face truing worked.
 

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Hm, I used Loctite 620 last time I assembled an upper. "Green", anaerobic, high-temp formula.
 
bfoosh006 said:
For the receiver to barrel fit Criterion suggests Loctite 609...

Loctite ® 609™ is a low viscosity, rapid-curing anaerobic adhesive that augments the strength of press fit assemblies or slip fit assemblies up to 0.005"in diameter. Adds up to 3,000 psi holding power. Recommended for parts that will need subsequent dismantling, i.e., retention of bearings onto shafts and into housings.

Be sure to true up / lap the receiver face.

I did both on my .308 barrel change and couldn't be happier with the results.
Click to expand...

Thank you. That is helpful.

So it is recommended that even high quality receivers are trued before assembly? That's helpful because I may have missed that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mjphawk said:
Thank you. That is helpful.

So it is recommended that even high quality receivers are trued before assembly? That's helpful because I may have missed that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

While modern QC on even quality uppers is great ... IMHO, rarely are they trued up unless the manufacturers says it was.

I haven't seen one yet... YMMV

My .308 PSA upper was only a very little not trued... but you can see how you want the barrel to have a nice flat surface to be making contact with..especially after torqueing down,... minimizing any slight barrel movement, no matter how tiny or after heating up, will help in your barrel being able to shot consistently every time.

And the Loctite 609 helps with any possible movement in the barrel to upper sleeve.

Both are easy to do and can eliminate you wondering if that would have helped with those stupid flyers...

After doing those to my .308 PSA PA10 GenII upper and its new Criterion barrel, and with ammo it likes, I can easily see when I screw up the shot... I can not blame it on the rifle and ammo.... just myself.

The 2 outside of the "one hole" shots in the above photo... I could tell I messed those up.... me alone.
 
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No, I have had a few checked and found that high quality receivers did not need truing. The single biggest effect on accuracy is going to the be the barrel you choose.
 
padom said:
No, I have had a few checked and found that high quality receivers did not need truing. The single biggest effect on accuracy is going to the be the barrel you choose.
Click to expand...

padom, has made me realize ... my uppers ( that I have trued ) were 2 PSA and 2 BCM, 1 Colt. Just to be more informative.
 
mjphawk said:
I am planning my first AR-15 long-range build and have been combing through the archives here and elsewhere trying to educate myself. I understand that the barrel, bolt, and trigger have the biggest impact on accuracy. My biggest question concerns the receivers that will be the heart of the build. I believe I need an over-built upper to add rigidity to the upper but other than the VLTOR I am not sure which receivers are good candidates.

The gun will be shot predominantly from a bench or in the prone so I don't mind a heavier rig if it means greater accuracy potential. I will handload all ammunition. Price isn't the biggest concern but it is a consideration.

I would appreciate any critiques and/or feedback you might be able to provide.
  • Krieger 20" DCM HBAR 7.7 twist SS barrel chambered in 223 Wylde
  • JP Enhanced Bolt
  • Timney Calvin Elite Trigger
  • Seekins SP3R V3 rail
  • Seekins Low profile adj gas block
  • A2 Buffer assembly
  • Magpul PRS stock
  • LaRue QD mount scope base
  • Ergo Grip hand grip with palm shelf
  • Rifle length gas tube
  • Charging handle
Plus
  • Vltor assembled VRA-R lower receiver
  • Vltor Modular Upper Receiver (MUR)
  • Seekins BCG
Or
  • Noveske Gen 1 Forged stripped lower
  • Noveske MUR (made by Vltor) upper
  • Noveske BCG
  • JP lower parts kit
Other receivers considered:
  • JP Enterprises Billet
  • JP Enterprises forged
  • Vltor monolithic
  • Flacor
  • Alexander Arms
  • Seekins
  • LaRue
Click to expand...

noveske BCG isnt special other than the logo. Save some bucks imo. Make sure your barrel is 223 wylde not just 223, some sellers like Brownells sell a straight up 223 only Krieger.
 
Ok OP, I feel like people are pulling you in ten different directions, so let's just simply it..

(1) Buy your Krieger Barrel from Compass Lake Engineering, In any configuration you like, they will be happy to assist you I would strongly recommend the 7.7 twist though. The Wylde Chamber is a great Option if you plan to run 5.56 ammo and .223, but if you're like me and only care about precision and accuracy get a .223 Match Chamber from CLE. And most importantly get your Barrel and bolt headspace together.

Unless you really want to get balls deep in this build I wouldn't trouble yourself about getting an oversized Barrel extension the Loctite fix works really damn good, and I prefer the red Loctite over any other. People like myself and Padam tend to go full Retard when we do our builds. I have built several uppers using red Loctite to take up any play and to fill the voids in receiver, and they have shot just as well as the ones I have Thermo fitted.

​​​​​​​In my experience it is harder to find store bought match ammo for a barrel chambered and wylde that will shoot as good as handloads. All my barrels from CLE we'll shoot Black Hills Blue remanufactured .223 77gr ammo at 1/2 MOA or better.

(2) I true every receiver ​​​​​​I get and out of all the receivers I trust the VLTOR Upper, it has​ always been perfect, it really is just an awesome receiver and it has a bit of heft to it so it will support a heavy 20 inch barrel with no problem whatsoever.

(3) Yes SLR or Superlative Arms AGB are probably the best on the market, I prefer SLR.

So first step is get your Krieger Barrel, next figure out what you want to use for your receivers. I prefer to use a match set over piecing different brands together.. like I said above the Rainier Arms match grade receiver sets are the one of the best I've seen on the market for the price,and they have ambidextrous controls. Me personally I would get a matched set if you don't want to go that way the VLTOR uppers are awesome.

If you want to have your upper receiver face trude send it in to Lee Wells at accurate and reliable rifles.com and it will cost $25.

 
bigjake83 said:
(1) Buy your Krieger Barrel from Compass Lake Engineering, In any configuration you like, they will be happy to assist you I would strongly recommend the 7.7 twist though. The Wylde Chamber is a great Option if you plan to run 5.56 ammo and .223, but if you're like me and only care about precision and accuracy get a .223 Match Chamber from CLE. And most importantly get your Barrel and bolt headspace together.

In my experience it is harder to find store bought match ammo for a barrel chambered and wylde that will shoot as good as handloads. All my barrels from CLE we'll shoot Black Hills Blue remanufactured .223 77gr ammo at 1/2 MOA or better.
Click to expand...

I did some reading on the 223 Wylde vs CLE Match. Am I understanding correctly that the biggest difference is that with a 223 Wylde I likely going to have a lot of jump with magazine length rounds whereas the CLE is a little shorter so that magazine length VLDs such as the 77gr SMK/TMKs or 80gr VLDs can get out closer to the lands? Are there other differences? Are there any drawbacks to the CLE?

As I stated I want to maximize accuracy and plan to feed it almost exclusively handloads so being able to use factory NATO rounds isn't a large concern. It would be nice to have to flexibility to use something such as PRIME

bigjake83 said:
So first step is get your Krieger Barrel, next figure out what you want to use for your receivers. I prefer to use a match set over piecing different brands together.. like I said above the Rainier Arms match grade receiver sets are the one of the best I've seen on the market for the price,and they have ambidextrous controls. Me personally I would get a matched set if you don't want to go that way the VLTOR uppers are awesome.
Click to expand...

I'm still split between the VLTOR and the JP Enterprises. I like the way the JP Enterprises looks and that they are a matched set. Are the JP uppers of at least the same quality/rigidity as the VLTOR or is the price difference really just for the name/looks?


Thanks again to all for the input. I feel a lot better about some of the aspects of this build which have changed since I originally posted.
 
That's my point the .223 perfect for AR mag length loads, and unless you're gonna single feed it the 80gr VLD are out.

Yes there is a big difference between the JP CTR-02 upper vs The VLTOR., The CTR-02 is at least twice as thick as the VLTOR, but since you keep saying you're gonna run a 20" Barrel you don't need the JP.
 
bigjake83 said:
That's my point the .223 perfect for AR mag length loads, and unless you're gonna single feed it the 80gr VLD are out.

Yes there is a big difference between the JP CTR-02 upper vs The VLTOR., The CTR-02 is at least twice as thick as the VLTOR, but since you keep saying you're gonna run a 20" Barrel you don't need the JP.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

I just wanted to make sure I understood the benefit of the CLE match chamber. Sounds like there aren't really any down-sides provided you plan to hand-load

While not part of the plan right now it at least sounds like the CTR-02 isn't going to be a detriment to the build and may even be beneficial if I wanted to flexibility to move to a 24" 6.5 Grendel barrel at some future date.

I appreciate everyone's patience, I do research based on feedback before asking follow-ups to try and avoid dumb questions. I've pretty much been a bolt-action guy so a high quality AR build for precision is totally new territory.
 
FALex said:
Seriously, all that shit looks good. But to be quite honest, if you're going to spend that much cash on a precision AR, just have JP build the fucker for you. Let's face it, after it's all said and done, what if it doesn't meet your expectations in terms of "precision?" Where do you start?

You MIGHT pay a tad bit more (I'm not even sure about this as I got my JP-15 for 2k) by going with a complete JP build, but you will have the satisfaction of knowing a few things: 1) the rifle will be a precision rifle and 2) there's likely not going to be another AR that is more accurate.

For me, it's a piece of mind issue. Of course, I am the super proud owner of two different JP builds. After seeing the performance of my LRP-07, the JP-15 was a no-brainer.

I am sure GAP and others on here make very accurate rifles as well, but I can personally attest to JP's.
Click to expand...

The bolded part is interesting. What types of groups are you getting with your JP at > or = 500 yards? Not trying to start an argument, just curious from a comparison standpoint.
 
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Ok, I am down to what I think are my final questions

1) How much difference does contour make? The Krieger ordered directly from the factory has a 0.750" gas block diameter and 0.730" at the muzzle versus the CLE Match where I can select from 0.875"/0.936" at the gas block and 0.750"/0.812" at the muzzle. It appears I can mix and match my dimensions (i.e. 0.875" at gas block with 0.812" muzzle). I'm thinking the 0.875" at gas block with 0.812" muzzle is probably sufficient for a .223 but don't want to give up accuracy in order to save a few ounces

2) Is there a detriment to threading a .223 barrel with a 1/2 - 28? I read some info that for larger calibers that small thread size can cause a "bell" at the crown and inhibit accuracy. I do not have a 5.56 can and my 7.62 is too heavy for an AR (Specwar 762). Clearly no muzzle device means I need to be very careful with the crown.
 
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mjphawk said:
Ok, I am down to what I think are my final questions

1) How much difference does contour make? The Krieger ordered directly from the factory has a 0.750" gas block diameter and 0.730" at the muzzle versus the CLE Match where I can select from 0.875"/0.936" at the gas block and 0.750"/0.812" at the muzzle. It appears I can mix and match my dimensions (i.e. 0.875" at gas block with 0.812" muzzle). I'm thinking the 0.875" at gas block with 0.812" muzzle is probably sufficient for a .223 but don't want to give up accuracy in order to save a few ounces

2) Is there a detriment to threading a .223 barrel with a 1/2 - 28? I read some info that for larger calibers that small thread size can cause a "bell" at the crown and inhibit accuracy. I do not have a 5.56 can and my 7.62 is too heavy for an AR (Specwar 762). Clearly no muzzle device means I need to be very careful with the crown.
Click to expand...

Yes have CLE do your barrel, you can get it in any configuration you like.

I never!! Run 1/2x28 threads, it just doesn't leave enough meat at the end of the barrel causing that last inch to be superheated, sounds like you want to have a medium varmint Contour, 1" just past the chamber, then step it down .920 under the handguard .875 gas Block, then .840 the muzzle with 5/8x24 threads. That is the exact profile I run on all my 18"-20" AR barrels. I would also recommend the APA GEN2 Little Bastard MB, same as seen in photo. IMG_20160123_151721746.jpg
IMG_20151210_140011856.jpg

 
I find the comment on avoiding 1/2x28 muzzle threads very intriguing.. makes sense conceptually.
Have you tested this notion? Actually measured the temps after identical stings of fire, the muzzle threads on 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 guns to prove
this theory?
I would like to hear more on your findings on accuracy betwixt the 2 muzzle threadings, if you care to
elaborate..
 
There are frankly a number of successful ways to accomplish what you're trying to do.

It's always easier to do if weight is no factor. Heavy guns are easier to shoot accurately.

For my own use, I have little interest in building a heavy gun in a light caliber. It is to me more gratifying to be half-MOA or better with factory ammo with a lighter rifle.

IMG_3719.jpg


IMG_3721.jpg


I wasn't going whole hog on the lightweight theme here. The only things I'd even consider "lightweight" are the Proof Research CFW barrel and the MFT buttstock, plus a bunch of V Seven titanium parts. I guess the tiny Nightforce 2.5-10x42 NXS at 21.5 ounces is on the lighter side for a precision optic.

Parts list, in the order they all go together, more or less:

SanTan Pillar billet receiver set

Proof Research 18" CFW barrel, 1x8 twist, Wylde chamber

SLR Ti adjustable gas block

Geissele 13" Mk 8 rail (not light - just on hand)

Thunder Beast CB brake

MSTN N/M Ionbond DLC coate BCG with bolt fitted at 1.4646" (not light)

PRI Gas Buster

Every titanium part V Seven offers for the lower receiver - push pins, safety selector, dust cover, receiver end plate, tube nut, grip screw, buffer stop, etc.

Geissele N/M trigger

Vltor A5 recoil system with A5-H1 buffer

Sierra Precision pistol grip

MFT buttstock

Spuhr SP-3026 scope mount

NF 2.5-10x42 NXS

Thunder Beast Ultra 7 .223 (light for a suppressor, but heavier than no suppressor)

Really Right Stuff TVC-33 tripod (extremely light)

Really Right Stuff TA-3 leveling head with throw lever base

Things I do:

Fit bolt

Contour & polish feed ramps

Prep new barrel by simply cleaning it with KG products.

Locktite most things

Things I don't do:

Square receiver (comes that way)

Locktite barrel extension (tight fit already that requires heat to install)

The Proof barrels continue to impress me greatly. The throat and chamber are like that of no other barrel. There is a complete and total absence of tool marks in both. The bores are of course flawless, too. I've got three rifles with Proof CFW barrels now, and they're all favorites.







 
ballistic1 said:
I find the comment on avoiding 1/2x28 muzzle threads very intriguing.. makes sense conceptually.
Have you tested this notion? Actually measured the temps after identical stings of fire, the muzzle threads on 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 guns to prove
this theory?
I would like to hear more on your findings on accuracy betwixt the 2 muzzle threadings, if you care to
elaborate..
Click to expand...

Here is the article that got me thinking about it.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/

It suggests that a threaded muzzle that doesn't leave enough material at the crown can be subject to flaring out. Conceptually I guess this could influence the perfect release from the rifling that is the purpose of a well cut crown.

The video and article deal with .308 and 6.5 and doesn't specifically include 5.56 but I would think that moving from 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 on a 5.56 accomplishes the same as moving from 5/8x24 to 3/4x28 on a .308/6.5.

I'm going to heed the advice I got here and go with a 5/8x24 thread which will give me the flexibility to use my Specwar 762 on this build if I choose to do so. It's a heavy can (24oz) but I found out the friend who got me started on this build runs a similar weight can on his rig which is very similar to what I am planning. I originally planned to not even thread the muzzle since I don't plan on buying a dedicated 5.56 can.

I wish I had seen this before I rebarreled my bolt gun but am glad I saw it before I do my full custom bolt gun.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
photo69560.jpg

Agree with just letting Compass Lake put one together for you. - great people. Ordered a CLE service rifle w/ Krieger 7.7, Geissele trigger and matching lower. Had it at my door 2 days later.

Have had it about a month now and it's terrific. 5 shot group inside .25", consistent sub .5 MOA the norm.
And I'm new to all this.




photo72672.jpg
 
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Wow, that's pretty damn tight. My absolute best rifle is a custom built Grendel I put together with a Satern barrel; I thought a consistent .33 was something to brag about but damn. There are new bullets out since I last loaded for it though and that cut rifle barrel can surprise... Haven't tried out my Lijla 6.5G SBR or "Recce" .223 Wylde yet, sorry. Expect good things though, they are supposed to be one of the best button rifle bbl. makers. I "think" Krieger makes my SR25 bbl. and it's 20" cut rifle and guaranteed sub-MOA.

Marines custom build their "DCM" style rifles very similar to yours in-house for their shooting team (or did in the doc. I saw back in the day). FF tube under the handguard, cut rifle blank they turned, etc. Custom A2 irons (we used to mod ours in army but they did a couple better up on us). It was all in the details. Rifle looked no different than any other old school A2 w/SS bbl. and A2 hider. They had their own loading unit too and dedicated rounds to their rifles. No wonder they shoot so damn well in competitions! Good shooting habits + practice + good gear - as many variables as possible = winner.

IME, most of your accuracy will lie in that barrel and a quality solid milspec rcvr./bcg setup (I like to use JP for lower/upper parts, bcg's and Geissele triggers on nice rifles) with at least a quality FF tube of some kind (I like KAC and URX4 is super simple, well priced and works VERY well, but limits gas blocks to set screw unless you are willing to drill the side for a pin; not a problem for most folks). That's gear anyway. All the other stuff is ergonomics, reliability or just looks. I do find Noveske upper and lower receivers to be the best for the money. New ones are nice too. KAC15 lower is fully ambi and has SOPMOD stock and trigger fine enough to leave... GTG out of the box and worth the high price all considered if you are a trigger snob and prefer SOPMOD stocks (I started using them on longer rifles after the SR25 came with one and I like it enough to leave it). From experience though, I've seen fixed A2 stocks out perform collapsible, but they weren't SOPMODs which fit solid (B5's are nice, but not as tight as real LMT IME). Magpul's PRS is just too damn heavy and 1.5" scope mounts eliminate the need for adj. cheek riser, for me anyway. MUR1 upper is really nice, but the one I have the FA won't engage a JP carrier, only a milspec one. Could be a one off issue though.

Good luck!

Oh, unless you happen to have a ton of AR tools just laying around or access and knowledge, it may be cheaper and you may end up with a better rifle if you buy one. Lots of excellent AR's for about build price, better on sale. Some custom too and KAC is so improved it's basically proprietary and not even technically an AR anymore (not many AR parts fit 'em anymore). Been building for years, know/knew some of the best and I still learn tricks; one of those is to just purchase all but the most custom rifle --but I happen to have the tools. Should start a shop rental business, you pay $50 or so and I let you use my tools and help you assemble it.
 
If I was building one I would use a San Tan receiver set, they are amazingly tight, then JP barrel, lightweight BCG and riffle buffer. Then whatever else from there.

Buying one, I would just buy a JP and be done with it.
 
...Or, simply buy this. You simply can't go wrong for the $800. stag_15_Verminter_model_6_L_2__29373.1506537208.jpg?c=2.jpg






All the figuring out is done, it arrives with a 1/2MOA factory Match ammo accuracy guarantee, and an infinite shot barrel warrantee. I've had my (Model 6 Super Varminter, which this model just superseded within that past month or two) rifle for going on 7 years, and it's a solid performer.

Honestly, the basic rifle is not in need of any superior rigidity, and any rifle that will deliver 1/2MOA at 100yd will stay accurate all the way out to where the ammunition is giving up the ghost.

I can appreciate the drive to try one's hand at configuring the ideal rifle. It fulfills a need which has nothing to do with how the rounds arrive on the target. But just about every such project I have has been an exercise in overkill in the absolute excess. When the dust settles, and the cuss echoes die away from the painstaking concentration, there is still the moment when the rifle has to stand up to expectation.

...And it almost always does. Honestly, it's often a little bit of a letdown to realize that it simply fulfills the same promise as so many other like projects.

Well this Stag 15 Varminter goes a step further.

All that heartfelt component searching, painstaking assembly, and prototyping evolution has been done by a concern with resources none of us could begin to approach having.

This rifle does it well enough that I just bought a second one (to replace my original, which is now my Granddaughter's). I could have done a bunch of things differently to replace it; but in the end, I just bought another, because it just plain always works.

Final thoughts:

I've been in this accurate rifle process for going on three decades, and while I do come later to the AR arena, I do so with a lot of LR shooting under my belt. The rifle will only do so much for you beyond 300yd, and the environment out beyond that is simply chuckling at our efforts to impose control on its framework. It simply does not care that we have outfoxed our imagined foe, it does what it does regardless.

By all means, build your build, but wait until you've tried this rifle first. You may find, as I did, that more is not actually needed.

Greg
 
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