Im running a rem 700 aac-sd with the stock heavy barrel. I only shoot 100-200 yards. Is a barrel upgrade worth the money at the distance I shoot at? I don't shoot comps or anything, just trying to get the best groups possible at the range. How much would a barrel upgrade cost me? Which maker should I look at, and what sort of contour should I look for?
- Thread starter Truth223
- Start date
What kind of accuracy is the rifle producing now?
Reloads or factory ammo?
Does the rifle have the original trigger and/or stock? If so, upgrade those before spending the coin for a new barrel IMO.
Reloads or factory ammo?
Does the rifle have the original trigger and/or stock? If so, upgrade those before spending the coin for a new barrel IMO.
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1 moa or worse,even with fggm 168
Bell and Carlson m40 stock torqued to 55in/lbs, and a timney 510
You need to hand load if you want to improve those groups, mine won't shoot any factory ammo I have tried well at all. But with my hand loads and enough cool down time between shots it will shoot .6moa. If I shoot a five shot group in rapid succession I get one flyer every time though.
If you reload, try ladder test if you don't jump up to 175 FGMM you have a 1-10 twist heavier will stabilize better but to be honest 168 should be great at least .75 moa also how much trigger time do you have?
I would have a known accomplished shooter try it first.
The variable might be you.
The variable might be you.
If you do rbarrel, shilen is a solid perfermer. Thats all i use, helps that my 'smith used to work for them long long ago.
To answer your original question a barrel will run 315-350. Chamber headspace crown about 300. Not counting fluting and paint.
another option, get a criterion barrel with savage style barrel nut, no chambering needed, barrels run about 350, I have done a few of them and they shoot great.
http://criterionbarrels.com/productpages/prefits.html
also before you change anything
- check base and rings for tightness
-check scope, box it, see if it is tracking, and or put another scope on it and see if it is the scope.
- how many rounds down the barrel?
- do not over clean the barrel leave some copper in it
- hand load
- good followthrough on the trigger.
- and the big one that gets folks, check parallax
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If you are shooting a 1:10 heavy barrel, aftermarket stock, and trigger. Spend your money on reloading, not on a new barrel. Biggest increase in accuracy for me was using "sh*tty" reloading practices (+/- .5 grains).
Everyone told me not to re-barrel. I did it anyhow. Accuracy wasn't my issue. VTR barrel, with the triangle barrel, built in brake, 1:12 twist were my issues.
Shoot your barrel out before you take it off.
Everyone told me not to re-barrel. I did it anyhow. Accuracy wasn't my issue. VTR barrel, with the triangle barrel, built in brake, 1:12 twist were my issues.
Shoot your barrel out before you take it off.
Just like everyone else said, you've got to start loading for your rifle. Factory is like a factory rifle, good place to start but needs upgrades.
If you do rebarrel, check out Benchmark. Benchmark Barrels - Home Expect to pay $300-$400 for a barrel + install labor from your local smith. Contour is your call. On a range gun the heavier the better, but you may have to modify your stock or consider an aftermarket replacement.
If you do rebarrel, check out Benchmark. Benchmark Barrels - Home Expect to pay $300-$400 for a barrel + install labor from your local smith. Contour is your call. On a range gun the heavier the better, but you may have to modify your stock or consider an aftermarket replacement.
