Looking at a Liberty Revere 30 gun safe. Its only model I can find with a dial lock. I currently have around 20 rifles+10 pistols. I know the number of rifles is suggestive however, would this safe be large enough?
- Thread starter TurdFerguson
- Start date
No. If it says 30, figure 15 if some are shotguns. 10 if they're all scoped rifles.
Always figure a safe that's rated for about twice as many guns as you actually want to put into it... Like was mentioned, unless it's a bunch of shotguns and non-scoped rifles, then you're going to run into fitment issues.
F6040 is a big heavy safe
| Exterior | Volumes (cu ft) | Gun Capacity by Interior setup | ||||||||||||
| Model | W | H | D | Weight | Ext | Int | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6S | 6E | 6C | |
| F6026 | 27.5 | 60 | 25 | 2700 | 23 | 12 | 9 | 21 | 12 | 12 | 18 | 24 | 21 | |
| F6028 | 29.5 | 60 | 31 | 3700 | 31 | 18 | 16 | 32 | 16 | 16 | 32 | 32 | 32 | |
| F6032 | 33.5 | 60 | 25 | 3200 | 29 | 16 | 15 | 27 | 12 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 24 | |
| F6040 | 41.5 | 60 | 29.25 | 3900 | 42 | 25 | 24 | 48 | 14 | 28 | 40 | 32 | 36 | |
| F7232 | 33.5 | 72 | 25 | 4200 | 34 | 19 | 15 | 27 | 12 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 24 | |
| F7240 | 41.5 | 72 | 29.25 | 4800 | 50 | 30 | 24 | 48 | 14 | 28 | 40 | 32 | 36 | |
| F7248 | 49.5 | 72 | 29.25 | 5400 | 60 | 37 | 32 | 64 | 28 | 48 | 48 | 48 | 48 |
That's only an option for those with a hefty budget who are unlikely to need to move it.
Wasn’t it Liberty that gave the Feds the combo to a customer safe?
Yes
Lets talk about that for a minute. It hasn't been clear to me but I assume at this point that the safe in question was equipped with a mechanical lock with a combination that was set before the safe left the factory. ??? The FBI produced a warrant and they (Liberty) provided the combination.
With electronic locks the safe usually comes with a combo code like 123456 and then the end user resets this to their preferred code. This is usually done using the current existing code or by accessing a reset button on the inside of the door. Is there any other "master" code that would be unknown to the end user?
Probably a master reset code. Something they can give LE with a warrant or the user should you forget your code. Just guessing
After posting the above I ran into this article to prove that I was entirely wrong on all points.
Each lock has a uniquely programmed Management Reset Code (I believe programmed at the factory) which is literally printed on the back of each lock itself (see attached image), just like the default password when you buy a router. This code is not universal across ANY device and is truly unique to the lock. Also like your router, this default password can be changed by the user, but this capability is not documented in the instructions provided by Liberty, likely on purpose so they can keep the keys. They also warn you that changing this code (ostensibly through a locksmith) will void your warranty unless the new code is provided to them.
The MRC functions like a factory reset which you can do from outside the safe. It is not an unlock combination, per se, but since the factory reset restores the default combination, it’s not far off, and absolutely does grant a person access to the safe.
Users need to learn how to reset the default password.
Each lock has a uniquely programmed Management Reset Code (I believe programmed at the factory) which is literally printed on the back of each lock itself (see attached image), just like the default password when you buy a router. This code is not universal across ANY device and is truly unique to the lock. Also like your router, this default password can be changed by the user, but this capability is not documented in the instructions provided by Liberty, likely on purpose so they can keep the keys. They also warn you that changing this code (ostensibly through a locksmith) will void your warranty unless the new code is provided to them.
The MRC functions like a factory reset which you can do from outside the safe. It is not an unlock combination, per se, but since the factory reset restores the default combination, it’s not far off, and absolutely does grant a person access to the safe.
Users need to learn how to reset the default password.
Don't buy new.
Buy used and wait for the right deal. You can get an actual jewelers safe with a TL rating for cheaper than a liberty.
It would actually fit about 30 guns and still be cheaper.
I got an AMSEC TL-30 that measures about 3x3x6 ft for 2600 bucks.
Buy used and wait for the right deal. You can get an actual jewelers safe with a TL rating for cheaper than a liberty.
It would actually fit about 30 guns and still be cheaper.
I got an AMSEC TL-30 that measures about 3x3x6 ft for 2600 bucks.
This is for electronic locks. Dials use a change key and you can buy one off eBay for cheap. Change your combo and you ate gtg. No backdoor master code.
I ordered one with a dial lock we’ll see if I actually get it. I would like a gun room but that'll be after I get a house. Transfers suck lol
If anyone wants to hate on liberty safe I'm fine with that. But to me it really seems silly to think that not having a master access code to a residential security box is going to keep LE with a warrent out.
Keep in mind that they do not care if they wreck your shit searching it.
Keep in mind that they do not care if they wreck your shit searching it.
See posts 4, 10, and 16…Surprised no one has stated the requisite "buy a used 25 ton bank vault, everything else is junk" whenever a safe thread is posted
Ah, missed those. Everything is right with the world then.
What are we poors? 50 ton and nothing less.Surprised no one has stated the requisite "buy a used 25 ton bank vault, everything else is junk" whenever a safe thread is posted
In typical hide fashion 
“I need a gun safe to hold two shotguns and a pistol”
The hide
“Here’s a link to a vault they removed from Bank of America” “Weighs 64,000 lbs and doubles as a garage”
“I need a gun safe to hold two shotguns and a pistol”
The hide
“Here’s a link to a vault they removed from Bank of America” “Weighs 64,000 lbs and doubles as a garage”
Link?In typical hide fashion
“I need a gun safe to hold two shotguns and a pistol”
The hide
“Here’s a link to a vault they removed from Bank of America” “Weighs 64,000 lbs and doubles as a garage”
In typical hide fashion
“I need a gun safe to hold two shotguns and a pistol”
The hide
“Here’s a link to a vault they removed from Bank of America” “Weighs 64,000 lbs and doubles as a garage”
I need this in my life.
A security container is useless when I have a pile of grinders and an oxyacetylene torch right there in the garage.
Only secure thing is to have a safe big enough for all my fab tools and boxes so they have to bring their own!
Nothing is safe from a determined thief or the kings men if they have enough time all you can do is slow them down , I friend of mine put a sticker on his safe that said there was black powder stored in his safe. Don't know if that would prevent the kings men from using a torch or not , but it would probably make them suit up with some extra PPE .
Probably get him pinched by the ATF for improper storage of black powder, and creating an ersatz explosive device…
Should put a count down timer on it activated by touching the safe.
I make sure all my metal cutting devices are locked up - simply to make it less convenient for some 16-yr old “opportunist” that may happen to break in some day. I’m under no illusions that my cheap storage container will keep any pros out.
I second buying used. Great deals can be had and if you want to change the configuration it’s easier then you think
$24,000 Graffunder. FFS. Full of PSA and Ruger shit. EL OH EL.Surprised no one has stated the requisite "buy a used 25 ton bank vault, everything else is junk" whenever a safe thread is posted
You think every other company hasn't? They have...Guaranteed. Even if they claim they don't on social media.
I’m not bashing, just stirring…You think every other company hasn't? They have...Guaranteed. Even if they claim they don't on social media.
I just happen to have this TL30 in my garage, 2 dials, bottom dial is auto dialer proof. Need an interior just have not gotten to it.
Attachments
I bought a Champion Safe some 25 years ago or so. At the time, the local to me gun safe retailer dropped Liberty due to quality issues and went with Champion. I have no idea what today's relative ranking is of Liberty vice Champion.
I purchased the Challenger (it was a lot less then) with mechanical dial. I'm still happy with it...just wish I bought a bigger one at the time (yeah, the most common refrain about gun safes! haha).
www.championsafe.com
I purchased the Challenger (it was a lot less then) with mechanical dial. I'm still happy with it...just wish I bought a bigger one at the time (yeah, the most common refrain about gun safes! haha).
Shop Safes | Champion Safe Co.
Are you looking for Gun Safes? Champion Safe Co. manufactures the highest grade gun safes, fire safes & home safes in the USA! Featuring 3 gun safe lines with fire rating options to choose from.
www.championsafe.com 
Looks good, I would have opt to the dial entry for my self.No safe will ever be big enough to store all your finest, but they can get too big to handle easily.
Get one like you mentioned...............then another....................then another......................well, you get my drift
View attachment 8370267
My only electronic, thought I would try one
Have had it 5 years maybe, so far trouble free.
YMMV
some of y'all boys are talking about RSCs. some of y'all boys are talking about safes. Safes are the way
ive got two TL-30s and an incognito storage solution (ISS, trademark applied for) .
no RSCs around here
ive got two TL-30s and an incognito storage solution (ISS, trademark applied for)
.no RSCs around here
RSCs?
Sure, but when you own nothing of sentimental value an RSC and an insurance policy can be ‘just as gud’
If you’re looking at real safes, factor in the cost to pay a professional every time you need to move it. I’ve seen it get real sketchy real quick trying to DIY move even 20 gun RSCs.
If you’re looking at real safes, factor in the cost to pay a professional every time you need to move it. I’ve seen it get real sketchy real quick trying to DIY move even 20 gun RSCs.
https://www.sturdysafe.com/ offer some nice what some might call RSC but is more like something in between.
As a typical Hyde member who likes nice (esp Made in USA) things and is always willing to go several steps beyond what is necessary, I have been eyeing high end TRTL30X6 and such safes for five or 10 years now.
But unless you know damn well you are going to be living where you are currently living for a very long time, and there is a place you can put it that doesn’t require taking it up/downstairs, what seems like a good idea today is going to seem like a nightmare if you ever move. It is not uncommon for people to simply leave them behind.
So this is one decision I have remained steadfastly rational about, and resisted the urge to get a safe just because it's badass. I have two cheap safes a small $300 one I got about 20 years ago at Walmart and a medium $500 one I got at Sportsmans warehouse (both far superior quality and steel thickness than what you currently find in those stores.) They serve to keep the children out and deter/stymie casual burglars. They are in a spare room that has an independent partition on the alarm system, so it can remain alarmed 24/7. The alarm has a very good monitoring center, and a very loud external siren, and it is all wireless with battery back up, so cannot be easily defeated. The house even has battery back up. So the alarm and the Internet work, even when there is a power outage.
But the real high level of security is that I pay something like $500 a year for a firearm specific collectibles policy. It covers all forms of loss except those that happen when you are using the gun like if you have a kaboom (which is why I don’t shoot reloads in my machine guns). I’m not sure what would happen if you were hunting and dropped one off a cliff, but that would be a one off thing and I would take it as a loss.
At $500 a year I could pay for one of those high-end safes in about 20 years I have calculated.
But I would still want that insurance policy. Because of stuff like fire, flooding, loss due to my own negligence (eg, leaving something in the car, or in the garage after a day of shooting), loss during shipping or commercial air travel…
The insurance really is the almost fool proof method of protecting your firearms valuables. I have used these guys for about 10 years now. Prior to that I was using the NRA, but the premiums were much higher, and the coverage not nearly as good. Plus, the NRA has become a bunch of embezzling, corrupt dip shits so they don’t see any more of my money.
www.easterninsurance.com
But unless you know damn well you are going to be living where you are currently living for a very long time, and there is a place you can put it that doesn’t require taking it up/downstairs, what seems like a good idea today is going to seem like a nightmare if you ever move. It is not uncommon for people to simply leave them behind.
So this is one decision I have remained steadfastly rational about, and resisted the urge to get a safe just because it's badass. I have two cheap safes a small $300 one I got about 20 years ago at Walmart and a medium $500 one I got at Sportsmans warehouse (both far superior quality and steel thickness than what you currently find in those stores.) They serve to keep the children out and deter/stymie casual burglars. They are in a spare room that has an independent partition on the alarm system, so it can remain alarmed 24/7. The alarm has a very good monitoring center, and a very loud external siren, and it is all wireless with battery back up, so cannot be easily defeated. The house even has battery back up. So the alarm and the Internet work, even when there is a power outage.
But the real high level of security is that I pay something like $500 a year for a firearm specific collectibles policy. It covers all forms of loss except those that happen when you are using the gun like if you have a kaboom (which is why I don’t shoot reloads in my machine guns). I’m not sure what would happen if you were hunting and dropped one off a cliff, but that would be a one off thing and I would take it as a loss.
At $500 a year I could pay for one of those high-end safes in about 20 years I have calculated.
But I would still want that insurance policy. Because of stuff like fire, flooding, loss due to my own negligence (eg, leaving something in the car, or in the garage after a day of shooting), loss during shipping or commercial air travel…
The insurance really is the almost fool proof method of protecting your firearms valuables. I have used these guys for about 10 years now. Prior to that I was using the NRA, but the premiums were much higher, and the coverage not nearly as good. Plus, the NRA has become a bunch of embezzling, corrupt dip shits so they don’t see any more of my money.
Eastern Insurance Group, LLC Joins Gallagher | Gallagher USA
Eastern Insurance Group is now part of Gallagher, expanding expertise and relationships in commercial and personal property and casualty products, along with health and benefits consulting.
www.easterninsurance.com Last edited:
Some of us have a weakness for new shiny things.... and a high-end safe would cut into the purchases of more new shiny things.As a typical Hyde member who likes nice things and is always willing to go several steps beyond what is necessary, I have been eyeing high end TRTL30X6 and such safes for five or 10 years now.
But unless you know damn well you are going to be living where you are currently living for a very long time, and there is a place you can put it that doesn’t require taking it up/downstairs, what seems like a good idea today is going to seem like a nightmare if you ever move. It is not uncommon for people to simply leave them behind.
So this is one decision I have remained steadfastly rational about. I have two cheap safes a small $300 one I got about 20 years ago at Walmart and a medium $500 one I got at Sportsmans warehouse (both far superior quality and steel thickness than what you currently find in those stores.) They serve to keep the children out and deter/stymie casual burglars. They are in a spare room that has an independent partition on the alarm system, so it can remain alarmed 24/7. The alarm has a very good monitoring center, and a very loud external siren, and it is all wireless with battery back up, so cannot be easily defeated. The house even has battery back up. So the alarm and the Internet work, even when there is a power outage.
But the real high level of security is that I pay something like $500 a year for a firearm specific collectibles policy. It covers all forms of loss except those that happen when you are using the gun like if you have a kaboom (which is why I don’t shoot reloads in my machine guns). I’m not sure what would happen if you were hunting and dropped one off a cliff, but that would be a one off thing and I would take it as a loss.
At $500 a year I could pay for one of those high-end safes in about 20 years I have calculated.
But I would still want that insurance policy. Because of stuff like fire, flooding, loss due to my own negligence (eg, leaving something in the car, or in the garage after a day of shooting), loss during shipping or commercial air travel…
The insurance really is the almost fool proof method of protecting your firearms valuables. I have used these guys for about 10 years now. Prior to that I was using the NRA, but the premiums were much higher, and the coverage not nearly as good. Plus, the NRA has become a bunch of embezzling, corrupt dip shits so they don’t see any more of my money.
Eastern Insurance Group, LLC Joins Gallagher | Gallagher USA
Eastern Insurance Group is now part of Gallagher, expanding expertise and relationships in commercial and personal property and casualty products, along with health and benefits consulting.
I think I like the insurance idea better.
I have a high-end safe AND insurance. No safe is impregnable if the thief has time and knowledge on his side.
