Looking for a Tikka T3 Action Wrench for 6.5-CM

[rustyinbend]

I have a Tikka T3x-TAC-A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor and I'm wanting to remove the barrel for a deep soak/scrub/clean. I'm finding an action wrench ... HERE ... but I can't tell if that will fit my chamber/action size. Anybody have a recommendation for where I can get an action wrench that's sure to fit? Will this one work? Thanks!

 

[shax2lex]

If you want to pull your factory barrel, then you will need to relief cut it.

 

[Randoman5]

Pulling a barrel for cleaning seems unnecessary. The action wrench interacts with the action and has nothing to do with your chamber or barrel. You'll also need a barrel vice if you're really committed to taking off your barrel, which again seems like a bit much for cleaning.

 

[Loki_The_Trickster]

If you want to pull your factory barrel, then you will need to relief cut it.

That's not always necessary. I used a wheeler #1 action wrench and a Short Action Customs Bravo barrel vice to get my T3x barrel off.

 

[rustyinbend]

Pulling a barrel for cleaning seems unnecessary. The action wrench interacts with the action and has nothing to do with your chamber or barrel. You'll also need a barrel vice if you're really committed to taking off your barrel, which again seems like a bit much for cleaning.

Interesting. I've got a really good barrel vise heavy-screw mounted to a thick work-bench. It's the one with the great leather inserts and I've never had a problem (yet) holding a barrel and unscrewing the action, but I've admittedly never tried it with my Tikka. In a problematic 300-WM barrel on my MPA chassis, I was getting results that made me think it was shot out. I pulled the barrel, soaked it for two days in BoreTech Carbon Remover, scrubbed it, then hit it with Iossa paste, scrubbed it ... and it came back to life with sub-MOA groups. I suppose I can do all that without removing the barrel, but I thought it really helped to seal at the throat (saran wrap and rubber band), and then scrub from both ends ... but if removing a Tikka barrel results in a cut barrel (as in the video) ... I won't waste my time, until it's time to ditch the whole barrel.

 

[NewsShooter]

If you want to pull your factory barrel, then you will need to relief cut it.

Really, between by buddy and myself we've removed 5 barrels, none needed a relief cut

 

[Steel head]

Pulling a barrel for cleaning seems unnecessary. The action wrench interacts with the action and has nothing to do with your chamber or barrel. You'll also need a barrel vice if you're really committed to taking off your barrel, which again seems like a bit much for cleaning.

 

[Billiam1211]

Removing a factory barrel from a Tikka is notoriously difficult. I haven't done it myself, but l've lurked around SH quite a bit and found a lot of people really struggled to remove factory Tikka barrels. I sent my T3 over to Isaac Frank from SIP and he removed the barrel using a relief cut. He stated that although it's not necessary to use a relief cut, that it makes the process go 1,000% faster and reduces the chances of damaging the action.

 

[R_Swanson]

Interesting. I've got a really good barrel vise heavy-screw mounted to a thick work-bench. It's the one with the great leather inserts and I've never had a problem (yet) holding a barrel and unscrewing the action, but I've admittedly never tried it with my Tikka. In a problematic 300-WM barrel on my MPA chassis, I was getting results that made me think it was shot out. I pulled the barrel, soaked it for two days in BoreTech Carbon Remover, scrubbed it, then hit it with Iossa paste, scrubbed it ... and it came back to life with sub-MOA groups. I suppose I can do all that without removing the barrel, but I thought it really helped to seal at the throat (saran wrap and rubber band), and then scrub from both ends ... but if removing a Tikka barrel results in a cut barrel (as in the video) ... I won't waste my time, until it's time to ditch the whole barrel.

As said above you don't have to make a relief cut on the barrel, but they are often a PITA to get off. IMO it's harder to remove the pencil barrels because the shims for the vise don't touch enough of the barrel. If you have tools to fashion a shim that fits the pencil barrel well I think it would pop off way easier.

 

[fortunt1]

Before scrapping a barrel, you might try this. A lot of people hate but this guy is a serious F class competitor and he swears by it. I’d try it just for research

 

[wade2big]

Removing a factory barrel from a Tikka is notoriously difficult. I haven't done it myself, but l've lurked around SH quite a bit and found a lot of people really struggled to remove factory Tikka barrels. I sent my T3 over to Isaac Frank from SIP and he removed the barrel using a relief cut. He stated that although it's not necessary to use a relief cut, that it makes the process go 1,000% faster and reduces the chances of damaging the action.

It’s not difficult at all. A couple whacks with the palm of my hand on the action wrench handle and they have all spun free.

 

[srt-4_uk]

Plug bore with these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJYYPK8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_glt_i_GFNX1R41ZTB2399Y09K7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Then pour in favorite solvent. Works the same as seran wrapping the end without the need to pull the barrel.

 

[NewsShooter]

It’s not difficult at all. A couple whacks with the palm of my hand on the action wrench handle and they have all spun free.

Last one was the hardest, needed an extension and a couple whacks with a mallet. My buddy pulled his first one having never worked on a rifle before. Bought a vice and a wheeler external wrench. Couple light taps with a mallet and it spun off.

 

[wade2big]

Last one was the hardest, needed an extension and a couple whacks with a mallet. My buddy pulled his first one having never worked on a rifle before. Bought a vice and a wheeler external wrench. Couple light taps with a mallet and it spun off.

The Sako TRG barrels I replaced have been like that. Three or four decent hits with a rubber mallet did the trick. I never had to use an extension but I don't doubt some would require it considering I have only worked on a handful.

 

[davsco]

ignorant question, is there a downside for putting the action/receiver in a vise and then spinning the barrel? the receivers seem like they have enough flat space to vise up, doesn't seem like an action wrench would cover enough surface area. caveat is i've never even held an action wrench...

 

[wade2big]

ignorant question, is there a downside for putting the action/receiver in a vise and then spinning the barrel? the receivers seem like they have enough flat space to vise up, doesn't seem like an action wrench would cover enough surface area. caveat is i've never even held an action wrench...

You could do that and use a pipe wrench on the old barrel if you plan on trashing it. The problem is when torqueing on another barrel. Unless you have wrench flats on the barrel it wouldn't work well at all. An action wrench covers plenty of surface area to not damage the action.

I have pulled three factory Tikka barrels and they were all easily taken off. An inside action wrench would have worked to do the job on all of them. For a vise I recommend a mechforce barrel vice. Throw away the piece of leather that it comes with it that is supposed to protect the barrel. It will slip. Just wrap a sheet of paper around the barrel and it will hold.

 

[rustyinbend]

You could do that and use a pipe wrench on the old barrel if you plan on trashing it. The problem is when torqueing on another barrel. Unless you have wrench flats on the barrel it wouldn't work well at all. An action wrench covers plenty of surface area to not damage the action.

I have pulled three factory Tikka barrels and they were all easily taken off. An inside action wrench would have worked to do the job on all of them. For a vise I recommend a mechforce barrel vice. Throw away the piece of leather that it comes with it that is supposed to protect the barrel. It will slip. Just wrap a sheet of paper around the barrel and it will hold.

Interesting ... I've gotten great results on really tight barrels by using the leather inserts that come with the Mechforce barrel vise. To each his own ... whatever works ... eh?

 

[valsport]

Slim pickings out there for external and internal action wrenches for Tikka it seems. Is consensus that something like this would do for a Tikka action, bearing on the flats?

ACTION WRENCH for LEVER ACTION RIFLES WINCHESTER MARLIN STEVENS | eBay

FOR SALE: AGUNSMITH LEVER ACTION RIFLE ACTION WRENCH. LOOK AT PICTURE.

www.ebay.com

I found a Canada made internal wrench and there's one on eBay but it looks pretty rough.

 

[wade2big]

Slim pickings out there for external and internal action wrenches for Tikka it seems. Is consensus that something like this would do for a Tikka action, bearing on the flats?

ACTION WRENCH for LEVER ACTION RIFLES WINCHESTER MARLIN STEVENS | eBay

FOR SALE: AGUNSMITH LEVER ACTION RIFLE ACTION WRENCH. LOOK AT PICTURE.

www.ebay.com

I found a Canada made internal wrench and there's one on eBay but it looks pretty rough.

A wheeler #1 action wrench works perfectly. Flip the jaws over and use the flats. Use the V side if you ever end up with a Sako TRG.

 

[valsport]

A wheeler #1 action wrench works perfectly. Flip the jaws over and use the flats. Use the V side if you ever end up with a Sako TRG.

From what I can tell the Wheeler #1 is backordered/not available from anywhere I've searched....

Correction found a few...so the end that attaches to the handle that has the notch for recoil lug, leave that and use its partial face and flip the v-side to the flat...understand.

 

[wade2big]

From what I can tell the Wheeler #1 is backordered/not available from anywhere I've searched....

Correction found a few...so the end that attaches to the handle that has the notch for recoil lug, leave that and use its partial face and flip the v-side to the flat...understand.

The one you found should work and its cheaper. The flats are what you want. Just remember to snug those bolts by hand and no more. I think people tighten them up and thats why they can’t break Tikka barrels. It squeezes the threads.

 

[valsport]

The one you found should work and its cheaper. The flats are what you want. Just remember to snug those bolts by hand and no more. I think people tighten them up and thats why they can’t break Tikka barrels. It squeezes the threads.

10-4 thank you @wade2big

 

[rustyinbend]

Tikka T3 Wrench

[email protected]

patriotvalleyarms.com

 

[valsport]

Tikka T3 Wrench

[email protected]

patriotvalleyarms.com

Sold out with no ETA

 

[rustyinbend]

Sold out with no ETA

Damn ... glad I got mine when I did.

 

[Billiam1211]

Tikka Bugholes Action Wrench

www.bugholes.com

I picked up one of these for my Tikka. Works great. I've used it to install 2 prefit barrels and had 0 issues. I'd say buy with confidence.

 

[valsport]

Tikka Bugholes Action Wrench

www.bugholes.com

I picked up one of these for my Tikka. Works great. I've used it to install 2 prefit barrels and had 0 issues. I'd say buy with confidence.

Sold out with no ETA. Anyone up for selling theirs?

 

[dirtytough]

I have found 3 different Tikka action wrench's. PVA, Bugholes, and SAC. All 3 are sold out. Are there any companies that I am missing? If someone knows of one in stock somewhere I would appreciate a heads up.

I have an external coming. Just looking for an internal to install the new barrel.

 

[valsport]

I have found 3 different Tikka action wrench's. PVA, Bugholes, and SAC. All 3 are sold out. Are there any companies that I am missing? If someone knows of one in stock somewhere I would appreciate a heads up.

I have an external coming. Just looking for an internal to install the new barrel.

Same boat. Where'd you find the external?

 

[dirtytough]

It's a Wheeler. I got it off Amazon. I am going to flip the top like suggested and try it. I should be able to try it within the week.

Regards, Branden

 

[shlouf]

I have the one from eBay. Changed a barrel with it last week. Works fine

 

[CaptNemo]

Ordered one from Bugholes.com this afternoon.