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Looking to do an ar 15 build

mitchparker6

Private
Minuteman
Jun 12, 2018
25
7
Looking to build an AR 15. Would like to know what kits you guys would recommend? Don't know much about ar 15s, but I do reload quite a bit and have stripped down quite a few guns. Looking to find an upper and barrel that are complete. Would like to complete my own lower. I am left handed so I would like ambidextrous parts/functions. I don't know if these things come with step by step instructions or what? Tried calling quite a few places to ask some questions, but a lot of places aren't taking calls right now unfortunately. I looked at palmetto and I really like this rifle pn 5165450384. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!! Just really wanting to to get one built considering the current state. Thanks!
 
Looking to build an AR 15. Would like to know what kits you guys would recommend? Don't know much about ar 15s, but I do reload quite a bit and have stripped down quite a few guns. Looking to find an upper and barrel that are complete. Would like to complete my own lower. I am left handed so I would like ambidextrous parts/functions. I don't know if these things come with step by step instructions or what? Tried calling quite a few places to ask some questions, but a lot of places aren't taking calls right now unfortunately. I looked at palmetto and I really like this rifle pn 5165450384. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!! Just really wanting to to get one built considering the current state. Thanks!
friends don't let friends buy psa

2 questions
a-intended purpose (precision, plinking, hd, hunting, heavy use like tactical courses)
b-budget
 
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What he said 👆 purpose and budget matters.

For a nice but still reasonably priced lower, Aero M4E1. Check out the blemed ones when they are on sale, reviews say you won’t see a blem but they are noticably cheaper! But even new/msrp ain’t bad and much nicer, imo than the PSA, Anderson etc

As long as you get a reputable brand parts kit, you should be fine. Doubt there is much difference in pins and springs haha. Trigger will be hit or miss in them, I’d definitely shoot for a kit minus trigger and pick something better to add in vs mil spec that comes with a standard kit
 
I'll happily go against the grain of the assorted parts snobs here and endorse the "just as good" stuff. It's your first AR, you're learning. HAVE FUN FUCK YEAH. For uppers and parts you can absolutely go with that PSA kit # you mentioned. With the assembled upper the "hard" part is already done. I started with a "Hardened Arms" brand upper and built the lower, so same general premise you're doing. It's a disease. Once you realize how easy it is to build an AR, you'll be finding excuses to build more 🤣😂.

I'm a lefty as well, and the only ambi part I use is an ambi charging handle. I've been shooting M16/M4/Mk18 is some form or another since 2004 and the charging handle is really the only part which seems to really make a difference in both time and economy of motion. But, everyone has their user preferences. The hard part about user preferences is you need to try all the preferences to figure out which preference you preferably prefer.

As far as ambi charging handles go: Daniel Defense, Geissele, Bravo Company, PRI. Any of those 4 brands and you'll be shitting in tall cotton.

I love ar15discounts.com for various AR parts. I have no affiliation with them. They just have a great selection of cheap Chy-Nuh shit parts to Gucci shit.

Instead of spending $1200 on parts like what a lot of people may recommend, I say spend $600 on parts and $600 on ammo so you can do a class and practice. A $1200 rifle is a paperweight if you can't afford ammo to get the feel for running the gun.
 
I'm looking for HD and plinking. Budget I'm looking to keep it under 1000 bucks for just the rifle. Found the scope I want to put on it already. Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6x24 VMR-2 Moa. What are your guys thoughts on different calibers? I have a 6.5 creedmoor and reload for it already, and planned to reload for this rifle. Or I was looking at the .223 wilde.
 
ADM, LMT Mars or Radian for the lower if you want gucci great lefty controls.

Or you can add forward controls components to an Aero lower.

Upper I'd talk to Alex at Trajectory arms and have him build you something with a Criterion barrel. He gauges and test fits every part so you have an efficient reliable system.
 
I'm looking for HD and plinking. Budget I'm looking to keep it under 1000 bucks for just the rifle. Found the scope I want to put on it already. Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6x24 VMR-2 Moa. What are your guys thoughts on different calibers? I have a 6.5 creedmoor and reload for it already, and planned to reload for this rifle. Or I was looking at the .223 wilde.

The budget needed for a quality reliable 6.5cm semi auto is substantially higher imo.
 
Stag is left hand friendly, and Aero is now their parent company I believe. Rail design is very similar, and cerekote parts match, if that matters. Their stuff is good to go. I just picked up a blem lower on sale, happy with it. Otherwise, yeah, skip PSA (although it would shoot fine) and piece together what you want. You don't have to spend big money to get quality products now days.

I want to try out this upper. Cheap, decent looking upper. Think he uses BA barrels. Also has good deals on components.
 
I'm looking for HD and plinking. Budget I'm looking to keep it under 1000 bucks for just the rifle. Found the scope I want to put on it already. Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6x24 VMR-2 Moa. What are your guys thoughts on different calibers? I have a 6.5 creedmoor and reload for it already, and planned to reload for this rifle. Or I was looking at the .223 wilde.
I have 1 223 Wylde chambered AR platform. The rest are 5.56x45 NATO chambered. For logistics, the ammo is everywhere.

For HD/plinking, I don't see the need to reinvent the wheel or pick some wiz-bang caliber like 300BO or whatever the trendy people are using these days.
 
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You could build your own with a good 80% lower so the liberals can't track it! Who cares what branding it carries. Some great deals on matched sets out there.

Only recommendation I strongly suggest is use a good quality barrel, trigger and BCG.

Everything else you can upgrade along the way - that part of your experience can be a lot of fun! Mil-Spec parts are usually good enough to start with if they are not chinese crap. Someone mentioned AR15Discounts plus KM Tactical and ARDaddy.com are all low cost parts sources. No affiliation btw.

Have fun with your build! Post up some pics when you finish it.
 
I'm looking for HD and plinking. Budget I'm looking to keep it under 1000 bucks for just the rifle. Found the scope I want to put on it already. Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6x24 VMR-2 Moa. What are your guys thoughts on different calibers? I have a 6.5 creedmoor and reload for it already, and planned to reload for this rifle. Or I was looking at the .223 wilde.
Buy a complete aero upper and lower (save on tax instead of complete rifle) in 16" This will give you an accurate reliable rifle that is free floated and has quality parts.

Scope go rt6
 
I'm looking for HD and plinking. Budget I'm looking to keep it under 1000 bucks for just the rifle. Found the scope I want to put on it already. Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6x24 VMR-2 Moa. What are your guys thoughts on different calibers? I have a 6.5 creedmoor and reload for it already, and planned to reload for this rifle. Or I was looking at the .223 wilde.

I went through the same decision a few years ago. 300 blk supersonics give more kinetic energy than 5.56/223 from the muzzle all the way out to 500 yds (I don't mess with subs as they're just a novelty). That makes ammo availability/affordability about the only thing 223 does better. I didn't care about that because I reload, so I went 300 blk. I am 10,000% convinced I made the right choice. Speer 125 TNTs deliver Sierra Matchking accuracy and basically pancake at 300 blk velocities. One load for HD, hunting hogs & deer, and punching paper.

For HD, a short barrel and a suppressor are a must -in my opinion. If you are going short barrel, then 300 blk doubly or triply outshines 223 as even the supers don't lose much juice out of short barrels. My HD gun has an 8" barrel, a Nomad-30 suppressor, and sounds and recoils like a 22lr while pushing 125 grainers at 2000 fps.
 
Purpose is everything.
 

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Aero Precision is a good quality starting point for a budget. As far as caliber, I think 223 wylde would make your life easier to start. I've been shooting ARs since 2003, putting them together is fairly straightforward, but can be frustrating with the small parts. It may be worth getting the assembled upper you mentioned and an assembled lower to see how they are put together properly. Instructions can be found many places, but experience helps a lot. Starting with less expensive kits and parts will help make it hurt less if something gets scratched or lost (springs and detents!) Welcome to the tip of the iceberg.
 
First tip: use a quality trigger in an integrated package such as Velocity, Timney, Elftmann or one of the other quality sources on the market. There are many pull weight and configurations choices available. Using a trigger in an integrated housing removes the trauma of dealing with the troubling little disconnector spring and the two legs on the standard mil-spec trigger mainspring.

BIG DEAL: drop the trigger assembly into its recess and then push the safety in place before installing the trigger & hammer pins. Otherwise, the tail of the trigger can protrude upward into the hole for the safety — making safety installation very challenging. Hammer & trigger pins install right to left, remove left to right.
 
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Second tip: for the front pivot pin, you will rejoice on fitting the spring and detent if you use the special and inexpensive tool sold by Brownells or other sources. This tool lets you push the spring & detent through the tool into the recess in the front of the lower receiver Next rotate the tool to hold the spring & detent compressed, and then firmly push the tool to the left with the pivot pin. Otherwise, if you don’t buy the tool, cover everything with a cloth and attempt the installation in an uncluttered area where you can hopefully recover the detent and spring after they escape.
 
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Third tip: start at the front of the lower receiver and work towards the rear. Otherwise you might attempt to install the bolt release before the magazine release, and mechanically they will conflict.
 
Get a 80% lower with screw in vs roller pins for the mag catch and all that

Get a JP upper

Done.

Even through I live in a free state, I love these pins




BAD also makes great mag releases, marine release I think it’s called

Ergo makes good grips

Silent capture springs and adjustable gas blocks should be standard.

If you’re going 5.56/223 get a 223 wylde
 
Fourth tip: when installing the magazine release, put grease on the parts, and then depress the magazine button with a wooden stick while threading the offside lever through the spring into the magazine button. I use a square bamboo chopstick from a local Chinese restaurant. This technique allows you to depress the magazine button sufficiently to engage the threads.
 
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Fifth tip: if your lower uses a roll pin for the bolt catch assembly, get the bolt catch roll pin punch from Brownells or other source. This tool should prevent ugly hammer strikes on the lower receiver as you attempt to tap the roll pin in place. Put some grease on both the roll pin and the bolt catch pin to ease installation.
 
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A word on AR assembly tools. I have assembled lowers without any of the mentioned tools, assisted by my gunsmith. We learned painful lessons, chasing detent pins across the shop floor, and marring the receiver finish. We agreed, that for us, the price of the tools, measured by stress, time spent looking for parts and scars on the lower finish, was worth the money. The tools produced faster and better results. Your mileage may vary. Good luck.
 
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One final tip: for the rear takedown pin, I use a 4x40 tap, plus a drop of aluminum Tap Magic to thread the hole for the spring and detent. My local hardware store sells 4x40 set screws. I shorten the rear takedown spring by a couple of coils, apply grease and thread it in place with the set screw. This technique makes installation of the end plate sooo much easier. Otherwise, I you try to keep the spring and detent in place with a putty knife, while holding the end plate in position while you thread the castle nut on the receiver extension (or buffer tube), and you do not bend the spring, you are much more agile than me. More good luck wishes.
 
A word on AR assembly tools. I have assembled lowers without any of the mentioned tools, assisted by my gunsmith. We learned painful lessons, chasing detent pins across the shop floor, and marring the receiver finish. We agreed, that for us, the price of the tools, measured by stress, time spent looking for parts and scars on the lower finish, was worth the money. The tools produced faster and better results. Your mileage may vary. Good luck.

That reminds me, don’t build it in a room with a carpet floor

You’ll look like hunter biden but looking for a roll pin in the carpet 😂
 
By the way, Larry Potterfield had a couple of excellent YouTube videos about upper and lower building techniques. His advice to remove burrs and to use grease is very good. I used Mil-spec M1 Garand grease, and it works well. You know, the little nickel sized plastic tube with the yellow top.
 
If you do build in a room with carpets on the floor, have ready access to a good flashlight and strong magnet.
 
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That is a great tip. Wish I’d known of it earlier.
 
First tip: use a quality trigger in an integrated package such as Velocity, Timney, Elftmann or one of the other quality sources on the market. There are many pull weight and configurations choices available. Using a trigger in an integrated housing removes the trauma of dealing with the troubling little disconnector spring and the two legs on the standard mil-spec trigger mainspring.

BIG DEAL: drop the trigger assembly into its recess and then push the safety in place before installing the trigger & hammer pins. Otherwise, the tail of the trigger can protrude upward into the hole for the safety — making safety installation very challenging. Hammer & trigger pins install right to left, remove left to right.
+1 on the Velocity Trigger. For the money it's fantastic! The only issue I had, which maybe I didn't know was a thing, was the trigger pin walking out because it wasn't bring beld in place by the leg of the hammer spring. Solution: anti-walk pins, yay.

But I also have LaRue MBT-2s triggers which are really awesome as well for the money, and don't cause the pins to walk because it a standard spring setup as opposed to the drop-in trigger pack magic.

Either way, great triggers, and you'll win.
 
Regardless of what some say, most of the PSA stuff today, is not bad, especially for a starter.

Besides all the KAC's & botique builds in our family with high end parts, front to back, we also have 3 of these (but with Geiselle rails) & they work very, very well...........they have excellent FN barrels. Add a good BCG & CH & they are very good & gassed perfectly. For a plinker & SD gun, 14.7" pinned & welded is ideal.

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa...m-5-56-nato-1-7-13-5-m-lok-pinned-welded.html

Or configure an upper of your choice from BCM............it will run perfectly, have great parts but will be double the price of the PSA.

Or buy one of LaRue's uppers for around $800.

Good Luck.

MM
 
Buy a complete aero upper and lower (save on tax instead of complete rifle) in 16" This will give you an accurate reliable rifle that is free floated and has quality parts.

Scope go rt6
What he said!

You can purchase a complete upper and complete lower from PSA Daily Deals for $500 plus tax and FFL Transfer.
Or purchase a good Armorers Kit, an upper kit and lower kit and learn.
Nothing wrong with PSA.
Lots of good advice in this Thread on building.
YouTube can be a lifesaver!!!!
I have built a number of AR"s over the part few years.
My choice at this time is an LMT MARS lower, Ambi controls and they come installed.
I purchased just before XMAS, a Large Match grade 16" upper for $750, it now sits on an LMT lower with UBR Gen1 stock, Geisselle National Match trigger and Hi-Lux 1-4 scope for Service Rifle Competition.
The National Match trigger is overkill for just shooting and any of the Geisselle triggers are good to go.

A tip I learned is to assemble the pivot pins and springs in a zip lock bag to capture them, when they fly out, which they will.
Be methodical and if things don't fit or work. STOP and analyze because it will be an error on your part.
Mil Spec works quite well with compatibility.
As an Engineer, I am impressed with the AR design!!!!
-Richard
 
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I would build an AR with a buddy who has already done it and has the tools if you can.

Determine your purpose, then pick your parts.

Parts I like:

Uppers: BCM Mk2, BCM standard, Aero
Lowers: BCM, Aero M4E1, Aero standard AR15
Handguards: Knights Mlok, Geissele, BCM. I've gotten really picky with handguards and want solid, lightweight units. I really dislike Aero handguards.
Triggers: LaRue MBT-2S, ALG, Geissele
Grips: Magpul, BCM fat grips, I think they're the Mod3
Buffer assemblies: Not so picky. Aero, BCM, Griffin, etc. for the receiver extension and buffer. Their included spring or a Tubbs spring is a good move.
Lower parts kit: There seems to be either $25 options that are all similar (CMMG and Aero are the best I've found), or it's $500 for a Hodge kit
Barrel: The world is your oyster. I like Shilen Stainless Match. BCM, FN, Daniel Defense, Criterion, Ballistic Advantage, etc.
Muzzle Device: Friends don't let friends use brakes.
Stocks: I like BCM stocks for non-bench guns. I like some of the Magpul's that have a bit of a bag rider if I may use the gun on a bench. I haven't found any AR style stocks that I really love, that's up to you.
Bolt Carrier Group: BCM, Daniel Defense, lots of other good options. Seems to be a lot of good working BCG's on the market these days.
 
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For the lower receiver build, I like the Sionics enhanced lower parts kit. Comes with and ambidextrous safety selector. The trigger is a basic nickel Teflon coated “enhanced mil-spec type” but it is crisp and has a clean pull. It doesn’t come with a trigger guard though. If you want a fancy trigger guard I like Forward Controls Design. If you want basic, White Label Armory makes a nice aluminum trigger mil-spec trigger guard.

Aero Precision makes nice receiver extension/buffer tube kits with buffer tube, castle nut, end plate, buffer spring, and your choice of buffer weight (carbine, H, H2, or H3).

Bolt carrier groups I like Toolcraft and Microbest, but you could really go with any reputable brand… you can usually find a good sale to save a little money.

For a lower receiver I would suggest making sure whatever brand you go with it is 7075-T6 aluminum and is type III hard coat anodized. Aero Precision makes a lot of lowers for other brands. I’ve used lowers from Aero, Spikes Tactical, Ballistic Advantage (now owned by Aero Precision) and Grey Ghost Precision (they used to have their lowers machined by Mega/Zev, not sure if they still do). I have not had any issues with any of those.

I’ve built all my own uppers except one, but for fully assembled uppers, I’ve heard good things about BCM, Colt, SOLGW, or Sionics. All of these mfg’s provide lots of rifles to people who’s lives depend on them.
 
I forgot to add, as far as instructions for assembling a lower receiver, the best written instructions I’ve seen was a download from M-CARBO Brotherhood.
 
I'm looking for HD and plinking. Budget I'm looking to keep it under 1000 bucks for just the rifle. Found the scope I want to put on it already. Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6x24 VMR-2 Moa. What are your guys thoughts on different calibers? I have a 6.5 creedmoor and reload for it already, and planned to reload for this rifle. Or I was looking at the .223 wilde.
This question was just discussed on m4carbine. This is the one I’d go with if I were you, in the screen shot. The parts kits, you can get into a Wilson lpk and an agl trigger too and be under $1000. Bcm has bcg in stock right now too, or go with sionics or colt, all three are good to go. Dont go with psa. If you have $1000 to spend, build a better rifle than psa. And here is the link for the thread. https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?234664-The-1k-Build-How-would-you-spend-it

I have the scope you’re talking about and really like it on my ar.
 

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Got my build done in 223 wylde. There was a gunsmith starting out in our small town, so I asked him to gather the parts for me. To give him some business.
20220315_212912.jpg
Got it all put together last night

Now I kinda got the itch and might want to get one more, but would like to do an 80% lower. We have practically all the tools we would need. Have a drill press. I'm lefty so would love to find a lefty, but if not, that would be no big deal. Looking at this.https://daytonatactical.com/products/flat-dark-earth-16-kit-5-56-15-slim-keymod-with-lower