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LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

TOP PREDATOR

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 19, 2008
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SCRANTON AREA PENNSYLVANIA
This post concerns the bolt knob installation on the LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - start to "finish" project, and a few economical ways to get a tactical / oversized bolt knob on your rimfire.

What is a "tacticool" rifle without a tactical / oversized bolt knob?

....seemingly incomplete. Here a few ways to install one at home on your own, from the semi-involved to the "easy as sin to do" for those that aren't tool orientated. A tactical / oversized knob on a trainer adds advantages such as matching it's centerfire big brother, easier to cycle do to the extra weight and surface for gripping, easier to "find" the knob not only in a normal shooting position, but awkward ones also. The added weight and length also increases the ease of "throw" as leverage is increased.

A bolt knob can usually cost $50.00 and upwards at the gunsmith's shop. With a few tools and a little direction, it could cost less than $5.00. Yes, 5 bucks!

This very informative thread was sent to me by hotrod9mm (thanks), and is the "correct" way, idea #1: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=321755

I originally was going to do that, then came up with idea #2; that perhaps I can find a suitable "knob" in the cabinet hardware section of Lowe's (pictured to the left of the bolt $4.97), and I also bought some Fast Steel epoxy putty for idea #3 ($3.98). The first photo is of suplies needed for idea #2 and #3, followed by instruction diagram for #2. The extra machine screw is to replace the one that came with the cabinet knob, as it is beefier. The broken screw driver is for "practice" and testing idea #3 using it as a simulated bolt handle.
mkiif007.jpg

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Cabinet knob $4.97 (Lowe')s
Tap and drill bit $2.56 (Home Depot)
Tap wrench $2.47 (Home Depot)
Beefier machine screw for "coupler" .20

= $10.20

You will need a grinder to shape the existing handle to match to the form of the cabinet knob, and some loc-tite or clear nail polish to keep it from loosening.

I thought the cabinet knob, once installed and painted, would look like a regular knob, or can be replaced by at least 10 different options (probably more) that was displayed at the cabinet section.

I went with idea #3 first for a few reasons: a) seems easier and quicker, b) was cheaper, c) can form the knob however I wanted, d) somewhat easily reversable in case it was horrible, e) anyone could do it, all you need is a stick of the Fast Steel epoxy putty ($3.97), some sandpaper, black paint (I used Krylon indoor / outdoor flat, seems better for wear against ultra black).

I first practiced on the broken screwdriver, using it as a simulated bolt handle, and to test durability. Started by using about 1/3 stick of the putty. It has the consistancy of a Tootsie roll. Knead together until the color is uniform and apply. You have about 5 minutes before it starts to really setup, when it starts getting warm to the touch, you are almost out of time.
mkiif008.jpg

After sanding and painting:
mkiif009.jpg

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To test the durability of the Fast Steel, I put it in the oven at 150 degrees for 1 hour, then in the freezer for 2 hours - no flaking, peeling or cracking. Dropped it 3 times to a concrete floor from 3 feet, a small chip happened, but nothing catastrophic. This is much more abuse than ANY of my rifles would be subjected to, no failure on the Fast Steel.

I put the Fast Steel on the rifle itself going for a comfortable automotive shifter / walking stick knob type of shape:
mkiif021.jpg


It looked a little too weird though, even for me, so I sanded it down to a more conventional shape:
mkiif022.jpg


Before:
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After:
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After the results (for under $5.00) of the "torture" testing and the look of the "knob" of the Fast Steel, I abandoned doing idea #2 as I liked the idea shaping the "knob" to however long, round, or position - high, low, straight, swept back. You can even shape the "knob" to fit your fingers and palm, put in texture (dimples like a golf ball using the tip of a drill bit, filing or etching in grooves, etc.). The Martha Stewart in me thought about inlaying an indian head nickel (it is a savage rifle), a state / bicentenial quarter, or etching my initials in the round outer part, for a little "bling", but then I thought not to. Just a few more ideas to kick around though.

FAST STEEL putty - $3.97
SAND PAPER (you probably have it on hand)
PAINT - Krylon flat black indoor / outdoor (puts it under $5.00 if on hand. add $2.99 if you have to purchase it)

TIME - 3-4 hours (excluding "practice knob")

Any of the methods mentioned to get the advantages of a tactical / oversized bolt knob is well worth it in my opinion. It definately helps with the cycling and the time between shots on a bolt gun. I, being a leftie with a rifle, find it very usefull using a rightie rifle. Plus it adds that certain eye catching custom "look". As most tactical centerfires has a tactical / oversized knob, it should be incorporated into a trainer for familiarity.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

kind of funny looking, but all in all i like it. great job.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

Another nice job Top Predator! Thank you for all the great posts and ideas. I like the way you take household items to tacticool your rimfires cheaply. Gives everyone options for making a Tac Trainer with very little budget.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

thanks, i'm really flattered with the support on this project.

i figure the only thing left (as far as still keeping it legal as a silhouette hunter class rifle) is bedding it, i'd like to use this Fast Steel stuff as it's cheap, durable as hell, and easy to work with. problem is i have to get the action in and set within 5 minutes or the whole rig is FUBAR.

i've been surfing around for an easy "average joe" bedding compound and technique, may be a little while before i can call this one "finished".
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

Nice! I dont have the guts to try this on my marlin though....
If you screw up, Does this come off? And how hard is it to get it off?
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

How does this come of?
So if i did this to a rifle? And lets say this, something on my rifle breaks... And i gotta ship it back, how do i get this off so that the company will work on my firearm?
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

the only way i can see to get the Fast Steel stuff off is to sand it off.

i don't see why the manufacturer wouldn't fix something wrong with a rifle if it has nothing to do with the handle, of course i could be wrong.

like all the stuff i did to the stock, if the stock cracks in half, i don't expect savage to replace it. but if something catastrophic happens to the receiver that is not stock related, i'd expect them to fix it.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

I have a bunch of work to do to my marlin.
smile.gif
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

Nice looking handle
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

Top Predator, I have bedded two of my own and several of my buddies with the Fast steel that you have. It seems to work just fine and the 5 min time frame is plenty if you plan well before hand. The hardest thing to deal with is that the putty doesn't squeeze out that well so if you put too much in the stock your action will not fit. Once you figure out how much to put in it is fast and easy. If you do mess up just wait till it sets and grind it out.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

Great idea man!!

You know you could go for some "bling" for a bolt knob as well
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Then you could have a pimp-tastic rifle.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

have you ever done one with plasti-dip? I did my .22 with it a while back and it turned out great (although I would think the stuff you used is stronger). I've been wanting to do my 700's knob too but it would need to be angled funny or else my hand would hit the scope while cycling. I was about to just try holding it in the wanted position while drying, but then I saw this. any thoughts as to which i should try? thanks pred, you're the man. budget mods are the best
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

FWIW on the older savage MKII's the bolt knob actually screws off. i did something similar a while back but just built up the epoxy stick over top of a nut that fit the original threads. sanded it down in a similar profile and painted it with black epoxy paint. it works great.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

Top Predator - I am also a Southpaw - do you reach over the top to cycle?
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

I did this same thing to my MKII FV and love it. I was amazed at how much of a difference it made in cycling the bolt.

I'll try to post some pics soon. Mines is not as well blended but it works.

Charlie
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

I just started doing my MK II F knob... I molded last night, and let it sit to cure. I will sand and hopefully paint today and will post pics of the completed bolt. It's still rough, so don't judge, haha. I actually liked the direction of the "shift knob" that TP was originally going for so that's the way I went.

THis is it so far.
2cfrs4k.jpg

2rfss20.jpg

I can completely tell a difference already.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kytrapper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Top Predator - I am also a Southpaw - do you reach over the top to cycle?</div></div>

depends on what position i'm in, and what i'm shooting at

prone or bench, target or game - cycle with right
standing kneeling sitting - paper target, silhouette competition, over the top - hunting game, rightie

for hunting game using the right hand (at least for me) allows me to cycle quicker for a follow up shot if needed. i've tried over the top while hunting, just take too long for me to do it.

although i loose cheek weld and some point of aim with doin it rightie, the extra speed i pick up makes up for it, plus deeps my trigger finger poised for the next shot. for me it just works better.

BOOBIE - thanks for the compliment, i haven't tried the platidip stuff, i don't think it would hold up as well or give the weight to help with the cycling. i did condider that stuff, but went with the more durable, heavier and most importantly easier to shape to my preference. another thing was the fast steel stuff stayed "hard", i thought the plastidip stuff may get alittle funky in heat or sub freezing temps.

so far 9 "ish" monthes with the fast steel on, through 3 different seasons and thousands of rounds, no defects. as solid as the day i put it on.

CHEMIST1 - i'm hoping to bed it over this winter after hunting season starts winding down, i hope to use the fast steel stuff, but as you said, you have to plan ahead as you only have about 5 minutes before it starts getting hard.

but before that bedding job, i'm shortening the barrel down, seeing the effects of a few less inches on FPS, group size, and possible bullet drop. and of course in the DIY / low budget spirit.

 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

Ok first I want to say that I'm not trying to step on TP's post, just showing how easy it was for someone, that has never done anything like this,to do what he had done, and with pretty good results I feel.

I just finished sanding, and I must say, I 'm pretty impressed with the way that it turned out. Pretty symetrical, and really smooth tapering. But judge for yourself.

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The Quik Steel that I used cured really well, and was very easy to sand and shape. Tomorrow I will paint, but I dont see the need to post pics, like I said, I don't wanna step all over the OP.Thanks for the great post TP, and keep us updated with future mods. I have the exact same rifle, and funny enough, the exact same bipod and optic, so I'm curious to see where you go next. BTW, any tips or tricks that you have in mind for the accuracy improvements for this rifle you have in store I would love to see.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

i don't think your steppin on it at all, just adding to the fact you spent 5.00 on a "custom fit" handle add to the value of the idea of the post.

i actually find it flattering, and glad to see it's working for you.

so i don't take it off topic, i'll say the next thing is shortening the barrel to see if it'll make it more accurate (reduced barrel whip) and the effect on FPS, group size, and possibly bullet drop.

then bedding later in the winter. then action mounting screw torque. can't think of much more i can do at home economically.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chemist1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Top Predator, I have bedded two of my own and several of my buddies with the Fast steel that you have. It seems to work just fine and the 5 min time frame is plenty if you plan well before hand. The hardest thing to deal with is that the putty doesn't squeeze out that well so if you put too much in the stock your action will not fit. Once you figure out how much to put in it is fast and easy. If you do mess up just wait till it sets and grind it out. </div></div>Could you please PM me with directions or atleast a quick over view of how you did this, I would be very thankful.

^Thanks TP.
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

Pred, what are your thoughts on fast steel vs a generic epoxy (putty type... where you kneed the two colors together)? I have a tube of generic epoxy around the house, wondering if i should go seek out fast steel (like, what if the store doesn't have it? is there really a difference that I should drive around to find it?).
 
Re: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - tactical/o.size bolt knob

i don't know as i haven't messed with the generic type epoxy, but i do like that the fast steel (at least for making the bolt knob) dries quick enough and that the putty consistancy allows you to form things without having to worry about it dripping, or having to make some sort of mold.