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Low-mid cost entry build and gear

AW24

Private
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2022
17
3
Canada
I know this question has been asked a million times before, and I have gone through some of the resources available, but to be honest, it's such a plethora of info that it started confusing me, so if you don't want to answer this type of question again, I don't blame you, but if you do, I appreciate your time.

I am currently looking to get into long range/precision shooting, and would like advice on what to buy. I just got a membership at a range that has targets up to 500m (about 550 yards), so let us call that my max distance I will be shooting for now. I was looking at shooting either .308, .223 or 6.5 Creedmoor, but I have now decided on .308 for a number of reasons, I could be convinced otherwise however.

I have limited experience shooting .308, 6mm, 30-06 and .375 H&H up to 300m (330 yards).

My budget is low to mid range, would love to keep it all to <1500usd, but I could stretch to 2000.

I recognize this is an expensive sport/hobby, and like any sport, especially at the beginning, the latest best gear is not as necessary as the practice, so I am ok with sacrificing some quality of product, in order to buy more ammo and shoot more. I see this as an activity I can improve and grow in as I go through life, and there will be time to upgrade later.

My main question is, for a beginner such as myself, based on the info I have provided, would you have any recommendations for the gun, scope, and whatever other gear I would need - additional gear is something I would like to know more about, in addition to the rifle and scope what are the other essential pieces of gear for a beginner?

Some additional info: I plan on mostly target shooting, but would like the ability to hunt deer (this ruled out .223 for me). As well, I will be shooting up to 550 yards for now, but the ability to shoot out to a mile would be nice for future (which is also why I eliminated .223). 6.5 isn't ideal because I find it a bit expensive and elusive right now in comparison to .308.

I will be in the Rockies of British Columbia, if that information is relevant.

Hope I didn't write too much, but I wanted to be detailed.

Thanks again if you read this far!
 
I started LD not too long ago. I went the cheap route, did not listen to the good advice given on this form, and found I had to upgrade gear relatively quickly.

Not saying you have to jump in with a $4K rifle, but you need some base quality to avoid frustration chasing issues. I went the Tikka route and I could not be happier. I am not a hunter, so I'll refrain from specific model recommendations. My Tac A1 might be a touch heavy to be hauling around the hills all day on my back.

I would start at the Tikka (or other vendor equivalent) level and 'cry once'.

This is key - Listen to the other member's good advice.

Same goes for the scope. Get something decent for your needs - don't go cheap. I am sure there are good used units for sale to keep cost in check once you determine the features you desire in scope.

Peace and good luck...
 
Tikka T3x in .308 or 6.5CM, enjoy shooting 500yds with a precise gun that's lightweight to walk with. Put whatever of the million modestly good scopes are now out there on it. Done. In Canadian dollars and duties and limited access, I think a cheap gun setup will be into your $1,500-2,000 range. Match and hunting ammo is $1.50-2.00 in the US for those calibers.
 
I started LD not too long ago. I went the cheap route, did not listen to the good advice given on this form, and found I had to upgrade gear relatively quickly.

Not saying you have to jump in with a $4K rifle, but you need some base quality to avoid frustration chasing issues. I went the Tikka route and I could not be happier. I am not a hunter, so I'll refrain from specific model recommendations. My Tac A1 might be a touch heavy to be hauling around the hills all day on my back.

I would start at the Tikka (or other vendor equivalent) level and 'cry once'.

This is key - Listen to the other member's good advice.

Same goes for the scope. Get something decent for your needs - don't go cheap. I am sure there are good used units for sale to keep cost in check once you determine the features you desire in scope.

Peace and good luck...
Thanks for the wise words, the TAC A1would be amazing, but pretty $$$ for me rn.
 
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Tikka T3x in .308 or 6.5CM, enjoy shooting 500yds with a precise gun that's lightweight to walk with. Put whatever of the million modestly good scopes are now out there on it. Done. In Canadian dollars and duties and limited access, I think a cheap gun setup will be into your $1,500-2,000 range. Match and hunting ammo is $1.50-2.00 in the US for those calibers.
Which T3x? I can only find the ctr in 308 in a 20", is that sufficient? Another option some brought up is thr t3x varmint, 23.75" and also 1:11 twist like ctr, but seems less geared to customizing.
 
so many good scopes. Check out Opticsthoughts.com for a price range breakdown with recommendations by the expert @koshkin

generally speaking, don’t get suckered by high magnification 18-20x is probably plenty, make sure your reticle and turrets are both in Mils or MOA, your choice, and probably go with FFP.



Other essential gear: bipod. Don’t cheap out here. THUNDERBEAST makes a great one, Double pull ckye pod might be a good choice with hunting in mind, ATLAS. Some kind of rear bag. Check out the Precision Underground ELR bags if you don’t have anywhere else to start. A schmedium game changer or Wiebad Mini Fortune Cookie would also work and might be more versatile for you later on. A kestrel with a ballistic solver will make your life easier. Once you have those things, go take a class with @lowlight. He and Marc will make sure your basic fundamentals are sorted out and build your confidence with knowing how your Dope works and get you started with wind calling. The rest of all the avilaable money you will ever have should be spent on Ammo. 🤣
 
I recently started hunting and wanted to build a "do-all" rifle that I could shoot as far as the rounds would be useful, so I mounted a scope with built more for tactical and long range shooting than for hunting. I was going for a sort of hybrid, multi-purpose deal.

So now I have a "featherweight" rifle that weighs almost 10 lbs in its current configuration.

If you MUST have exactly one rifle, my advice would be to carefully weigh the pros and cons of each accessory and feature before making a purchase. If hunting is more important, consider a lighter scope and mount (you'll be giving up either some of the long range reticle features or maximum magnification). If the flat range is more important, just accept that you'll be lugging around a somewhat heavier rig when you're plodding through the woods.

I have not tried it yet, but one way to help manage the weight penalty of a long range precision scope would be the Kifaru Gun Bearer. I plan on using one on my next hunt (though they may have been discontinued... can't find out right now because their website is down).

Unless you're willing to buy two different scopes and swap/re-zero them every time...
 
Which T3x? I can only find the ctr in 308 in a 20", is that sufficient? Another option some brought up is thr t3x varmint, 23.75" and also 1:11 twist like ctr, but seems less geared to customizing.
A regular T3x Lite if you can find one, or a CTR. 20" is just fine, enjoy the short barrel. 500 yards isn't that far, and 1 mile is very far ballistically. Enjoy a precision rifle for 90% of what you might do with it. The other 10% is very expensive.
 
Savage 110 tactical in .308. Comes with 20 moa rail, threaded muzzle and aics 10 round mag. Top with Arken SH-4 scope and sit on Harris bipod. Should be within budget, get well past 500 and can take deer. Pretty good sales on the rifle come up from time time on Cabelas.
 
A regular T3x Lite if you can find one, or a CTR. 20" is just fine, enjoy the short barrel. 500 yards isn't that far, and 1 mile is very far ballistically. Enjoy a precision rifle for 90% of what you might do with it. The other 10% is very

A regular T3x Lite if you can find one, or a CTR. 20" is just fine, enjoy the short barrel. 500 yards isn't that far, and 1 mile is very far ballistically. Enjoy a precision rifle for 90% of what you might do with it. The other 10% is very expensive.
Interesting, I never had anyone recommend the t3x lite, only the ctr and varmint, the lite probably has too lite a barrel for target shooting, no? I know ppl like the ctr for the heavy barrel, and what you can do to it, and the varmint for the heavier and longer barrel (23.75").
 
Savage 110 tactical in .308. Comes with 20 moa rail, threaded muzzle and aics 10 round mag. Top with Arken SH-4 scope and sit on Harris bipod. Should be within budget, get well past 500 and can take deer. Pretty good sales on the rifle come up from time time on Cabelas.
How does that compare quality wise with the tikka ctr?
 
How does that compare quality wise with the tikka ctr?
I have had great luck with very accurate Savages. Don’t own a Tikka. General consensus is Tikka has great reputation for very smooth action. So much so that many consider buying one just for the action versus a custom action. I have one savage with extremely smooth action and others I would consider average. Nothing great, nothing horrible.
 
Tikka T3 - 6.5 Creed ~$1000
KRG Bravo Stock - $350
Nightforce SHV 4-14 F1 - $1000
Rings - $75

For $2500 or so you'd have a setup that would take you out to 1000 pretty easily and have good resale.

You could save some money by looking for a Howa or Bergara barreled action, find a used Rem700 stock, find a used Burris or Vortex PST. The Ruger American is also a decent value, but I don't think you'd be happy with the stock options long term. There also have to be a bunch of used 6.5 Creed rifles floating around, so maybe start there?
 
Epeet has a good suggestion, I've had a few savages, started out with a LRP in 6.5. Great rifle, very accurate, just not as smooth as a Tikka. I didn't mind the savage target trigger, treated the blade like a two stage, had it adjusted to about 14 oz and it worked well. They're just not as smooth feeding, always needed a little pause in the middle. Tikka has a better trigger, much smoother, and tolerances are good enough that you can get shouldered pre-fit barrels for them. If Cameraland still has the Burris XTR III's on sale I'd grab one, probably not a better deal on decent glass right now. Seekins are my go to for less expensive rings.
 
Tikka T3 - 6.5 Creed ~$1000
KRG Bravo Stock - $350
Nightforce SHV 4-14 F1 - $1000
Rings - $75

For $2500 or so you'd have a setup that would take you out to 1000 pretty easily and have good resale.

You could save some money by looking for a Howa or Bergara barreled action, find a used Rem700 stock, find a used Burris or Vortex PST. The Ruger American is also a decent value, but I don't think you'd be happy with the stock options long term. There also have to be a bunch of used 6.5 Creed rifles floating around, so maybe start there?

Replace that NF SHV with a bushnell LRHS or LRTS from the PX here for approx $750 and you’re in business with that list
 
I am a bit like yourself in that I have recently started shooting long range/precision, my previous experience was hunting longest shots less than 200 yards with a 270win. One of my club ranges goes out to 600 yards and this is my max at the moment. I went the second hand route and found a Rem 700 SPS in 243win, 26 inch heavy barrel, to this I added a Vortex Diamondback 4-16 x 42 scope, plus a Harris bipod and I have just added a ATI floor plate and 10 round mag. I reload my own and am getting there with loads for 95 and 105/107 grain bullets. I am in UK and the rifle and scope cost less than £700 with another £150 on reloading dies and consumables. This is a retirement project for me and I am enjoying it. Wishing you good luck.
 
Tikka T3x based model- your budget will dictate the choice.
 
I have been down this road several times. Shop used. The last time I got a remington 700 varmint in 308 with a old 6.5-20 scope. Total price $1200. That was probably 6 years ago. Look for a good used factory rifle that you like and make sure to save enough for the accessories and a good scope. I would buy the scope now, a Burris xtr3 on close out from like cameralandny. Get a rifle that fits the budget left after that.

You can save on things like rings. I used to shoot Badger steel rings exclusively. I have switched to Warne Mountain Tech rings. Usually $100 and more than good. Saves $70 over nightforce. No need for a $110 smedium game changer if your not shooting off barricades. Get a normal rear bag for sub $50.

Get a good to great scope and a rifle that you can upgrade as you grow. Tikka, remington, savage and howa. Get shooting and find what you think you need and add it.
 
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I'll go against the grain and suggest a Bergara HMR Pro in 6.5 Creedmoor in the heavy barrel version. It comes with a Trigger Tech Primary adjustable trigger and uses AICS pattern mags. It's also a Rem 700 pattern so accessories are plentiful. A few upgrades over the standard HMR series are worth the extra coin in my opinion. Those are stainless steel action and barrel, fluted bolt ,floating interchangeable bolt head, Trigger Tech trigger, grey cerakote, 8-40 scope base screws and made in the USA vs Spain.

 
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Assuming you don’t live in Western Australia. My choice is really different. Purchase two Ruger Americans. Put a decent chassis under the one you want to target shoot. Stick with Ruger stock on the hunting rig. A nice 3x9 scope for the hunter and save like the dickens to get a nice but not top of the line 5-25 for the target gun. Go Atlas for the bipod, (there are better but there are a Whole Lot Worse and Atlas is pretty serviceable). Judiciously, you might come below your 2K max.

I am not a fan of compromise stuff especially tools which firearms are. When you compromise, too often it does nothing well, and leaves a lot to be desired.

And, another thought is the Weatherby Vanguard. The bottom model is a really nice rifle, especially for the money. I own one in .25-06 and it is the real deal.
 
How does that compare quality wise with the tikka ctr?
Tikka > Savage

There are some Savages that do shoot well. But the QC and quality of Tikka is generally much higher IMO

Also Savage customer service sucks big hairy balls. Don't know about Tikka as I've never had a problem with either them.

I would never recommend a Savage or Remington (hahaha)
 
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Epeet has a good suggestion, I've had a few savages, started out with a LRP in 6.5. Great rifle, very accurate, just not as smooth as a Tikka. I didn't mind the savage target trigger, treated the blade like a two stage, had it adjusted to about 14 oz and it worked well. They're just not as smooth feeding, always needed a little pause in the middle. Tikka has a better trigger, much smoother, and tolerances are good enough that you can get shouldered pre-fit barrels for them. If Cameraland still has the Burris XTR III's on sale I'd grab one, probably not a better deal on decent glass right now. Seekins are my go to for less expensive rings.
Started looking at the Howa HCR, thoughts? 1:10 vs the 1:11 in the ctr and 4" longer.

https://www.gotenda.com/product/howa-hcr-apc-308-win-24-bolt-action-rifle-101/
 
Tikka T3 - 6.5 Creed ~$1000
KRG Bravo Stock - $350
Nightforce SHV 4-14 F1 - $1000
Rings - $75

For $2500 or so you'd have a setup that would take you out to 1000 pretty easily and have good resale.

You could save some money by looking for a Howa or Bergara barreled action, find a used Rem700 stock, find a used Burris or Vortex PST. The Ruger American is also a decent value, but I don't think you'd be happy with the stock options long term. There also have to be a bunch of used 6.5 Creed rifles floating around, so maybe start there?
Started looking at the Howa HCR, thoughts? 1:10 vs the 1:11 in the ctr and 4" longer.

https://www.gotenda.com/product/howa-hcr-apc-308-win-24-bolt-action-rifle-101/
 
Started looking at the Howa HCR, thoughts? 1:10 vs the 1:11 in the ctr and 4" longer.

https://www.gotenda.com/product/howa-hcr-apc-308-win-24-bolt-action-rifle-101/
It's a 10 pound rifle in an aluminum chassis, I would not hunt with it. An immediate disqualifier for me in a hunting rifle is aluminum handling points. It's like holding a block of aluminum that's straight out of the freezer or straight out of the oven depending on when you're hunting.

A Tikka T3x in whatever variant will shoot great at the range and be hunt-able. A chassis gun will shoot a little better at the range and suck to hunt with. If you're hunting deer and not elk, just get a 6.5 creedmoor and enjoy the reduced recoil and better ballistics and totally viable deer killing capability.
 
It's a 10 pound rifle in an aluminum chassis, I would not hunt with it. An immediate disqualifier for me in a hunting rifle is aluminum handling points. It's like holding a block of aluminum that's straight out of the freezer or straight out of the oven depending on when you're hunting.

A Tikka T3x in whatever variant will shoot great at the range and be hunt-able. A chassis gun will shoot a little better at the range and suck to hunt with. If you're hunting deer and not elk, just get a 6.5 creedmoor and enjoy the reduced recoil and better ballistics and totally viable deer killing capability.
Ok, yeah makes sense. How is the howa hcr as a range gun for the price?
 
Ok, yeah makes sense. How is the howa hcr as a range gun for the price?
I cannot speak to the Howa, they have a pretty good name but I don't know anything about that rifle.
 
Sounds like a Tikka CTR or other model in .308 is going to be a good choice for you. I would recommend trying to stretch your budget as much as possible on your scope options. There are some really good deals going around on the Burris XTRii s and XTRiii s lately, personally I would take either of these over a Nightforce SHV. But there are so many good options at this point. If you want to save some money for now by not buying a bipod, there is nothing wrong with shooting from a pack as a front rest. It might even be more realistic for a lot of hunting conditions.

I would prefer 6.5 Creedmoor in a gun like this, but the reality is that its simply not available for people in many places right now. Just because I can reload 6.5 all day long doesn't mean a newer shooter has that luxury. 308 is a solid cartridge within the 500m range you have access to and if you can't get ammo to practice it might as well be a paperweight. You can always rebarrel the rifle in the future if you desire too and you still have an excellent action.

The used market is probably the move to make if you are trying to save as much as possible. Good luck!
 
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Firstly, cartridge;
compare your stated options of .308Win versus 6.5Creed (no, 223Rem generally speaking is not a "long range" cartridge).
Say you load a 168gn Sierra MatchKing in the 308Win going 2600fps, with the 6.5Creed loaded with a 140ELDM going 2760fps
If you get a 10mph gust of wind, shooting at 800, the 308 will "drift" 220cm off centre of aim versus the Creed will be 130cm - that's 3 feet in old money!
So if you say "I am currently looking to get into long range/precision shooting".....

I have owned about ten Howa 1500.
Think of them like a Toyota or Subaru. Not super sexy but well made and really well priced.
If you end up hand loading they can really shoot.
Have a good look at the Howa Bravo with a 26" Heavy barrel package (avail in both 6.5Creed and 308Win).
AICS magazine feeding, threaded muzzle, etc out of the box.
The KRG Bravo is great for both target and hunting use.

Grab a scope rail and magazine from MDT to suit and your away.
The Howa Bravo will outshoot you and you can spend more on your scope than if you buy say a Tikka.
 
I may have missed it, but what is your actual budget for optic/gun? I tend to spend the same or more on my scope as I do on my gun fwiw. Also, when you say your "gear," does that mean reloading stuff, hardware like tripods and chronographs, and/or soft goods like bags? I won't hit specifics because there's just many good options for everything mentioned above and I think this is more of a philosophical question. But I would say that it bugs me when I see the "what do I need" posts because this is such a highly personalize game. I'm not saying you're wrong for asking for advice, I'm saying don't get analysis paralysis. Go by you a T3X, an RPR, one of the production rifles such as is offered by Big Rock or Bad Rock or whatever, or a Savage and then go shoot. I can't tell you that before I got way down in the weeds my brother and I took his little 18" Ruger American and factory 308 with a $200 Nikon 3-9 scope and banged at 500yds with relative ease, so you don't have to go big just to get you going. That said, try to aim for a more competition-oriented gun if possible because it'll give you more adjustability, detachable mag, heavier barrel, etc. than a hunting gun will. If you do this for any length of time, you'll realize that stuff/equipment comes and goes as new products become available or you figure out what you like/don't like.

Start with what you want to do. For example, you probably don't want a 22lb comp gun for White Tail hunts (unless your a stud or walking like ten feet to a stand), and you probably don't want a 3 round non-detachable mag for PRS matches. Then determine the features you need or want to accomplish the goal. I advise you to save a little longer if it'll get you closer to that underlying goal. You might regret spending less on a gun that kinda works, but I've never regretted spending more on a product that definitely works.

Then backfill with the tertiary equipment that you'll need. A good bipod or perhaps a tripod, bags that fit your task, a sling, chronograph and reloading equipment, tactical trucker hat, etc. Whatever you do, if possible, save yourself time and emotional agony and go do some training somewhere with somebody. At the very least you'll get to shoot, but you'll likely get to try other products and learn tactics that make it easier to make good decisions. Actually, a lot of trainers have loner guns so you could just go do that training BEFORE you start dropping cash on stuff you're unsure about. It's a fun time to be you dude!
 
I may have missed it, but what is your actual budget for optic/gun? I tend to spend the same or more on my scope as I do on my gun fwiw. Also, when you say your "gear," does that mean reloading stuff, hardware like tripods and chronographs, and/or soft goods like bags? I won't hit specifics because there's just many good options for everything mentioned above and I think this is more of a philosophical question. But I would say that it bugs me when I see the "what do I need" posts because this is such a highly personalize game. I'm not saying you're wrong for asking for advice, I'm saying don't get analysis paralysis. Go by you a T3X, an RPR, one of the production rifles such as is offered by Big Rock or Bad Rock or whatever, or a Savage and then go shoot. I can't tell you that before I got way down in the weeds my brother and I took his little 18" Ruger American and factory 308 with a $200 Nikon 3-9 scope and banged at 500yds with relative ease, so you don't have to go big just to get you going. That said, try to aim for a more competition-oriented gun if possible because it'll give you more adjustability, detachable mag, heavier barrel, etc. than a hunting gun will. If you do this for any length of time, you'll realize that stuff/equipment comes and goes as new products become available or you figure out what you like/don't like.

Start with what you want to do. For example, you probably don't want a 22lb comp gun for White Tail hunts (unless your a stud or walking like ten feet to a stand), and you probably don't want a 3 round non-detachable mag for PRS matches. Then determine the features you need or want to accomplish the goal. I advise you to save a little longer if it'll get you closer to that underlying goal. You might regret spending less on a gun that kinda works, but I've never regretted spending more on a product that definitely works.

Then backfill with the tertiary equipment that you'll need. A good bipod or perhaps a tripod, bags that fit your task, a sling, chronograph and reloading equipment, tactical trucker hat, etc. Whatever you do, if possible, save yourself time and emotional agony and go do some training somewhere with somebody. At the very least you'll get to shoot, but you'll likely get to try other products and learn tactics that make it easier to make good decisions. Actually, a lot of trainers have loner guns so you could just go do that training BEFORE you start dropping cash on stuff you're unsure about. It's a fun time to be you dude!
I definitely get analysis paralysis...
Im thinking though, I really liked the idea of having a gun that can do both, but I don't actually need it, I have a Winchester 70 super grade in 30-06, so tbh I'm covered, I should probably get a dedicated target gun, about $1500CAD or less (possibly stretch it to 2000 if its some amazing gun or deal) and get a good scope.
Any thoughts on the howa hcr?
 
I definitely get analysis paralysis...
Im thinking though, I really liked the idea of having a gun that can do both, but I don't actually need it, I have a Winchester 70 super grade in 30-06, so tbh I'm covered, I should probably get a dedicated target gun, about $1500CAD or less (possibly stretch it to 2000 if its some amazing gun or deal) and get a good scope.
Any thoughts on the howa hcr?
I have a buddy that really likes the Howas but I have no direct experience. I recommend going on the Hide PX and looking for a rifle / scope. I've gotten some pretty good deals and generally cool dudes. My dad still has guns that he owned when he was but a little tike, most guys, at least on here, don't keep guns like that anymore though so you might luck out. I just downloaded a R700 for a deal (on his end) because I was excited about moving to the next thing. While I prefer bolt guns, if you're just wanting to tap 500 you could build a gasser in something like an ARC or Grendel. I have taken my ARC to 1k, although it was hard to spot splash on steel but it's be cheaper to build, parts are available, ammo is a little iffy but it won't stay that way, and you could target shoot with it or hunt or whatever. Just a thought
 
Started looking at the Howa HCR, thoughts? 1:10 vs the 1:11 in the ctr and 4" longer.

https://www.gotenda.com/product/howa-hcr-apc-308-win-24-bolt-action-rifle-101/

No experience with Howa's, I do have three Tikka's and I like them better than my Stiller action. Impact action is nicer, but not a lot nicer. For that price I'd get a CTR and put it in a Bravo chassis. There will be 6.5 ammo available again, scheel's had it on the shelf last week, and it will probably be cheaper than comparable .308 like before as well if you'd prefer it.
 
A few thoughts...
  • If you buy a used rifle, and the seller cannot or will not provide a round count that you can trust (yeah yeah what does that even mean...), look elsewhere. Simple rule of thumb for barrel life of a 6.5CM is around 2500 rounds. More than double that for .308.
  • Ammo availability: ok, if .308 ammo is more readily available - what flavor of .308? If it's bulk ammo with 150gr FMJ bullets... in the vernacular, that ain't precision ammo. I've seen guys show up and blast away with 55/62gr .223/5.56 or 150gr .308/7.62 ball ammo and get all happy if they hit a full-size IPSC at 500 meters from a rest - when, with good match ammo, head shots on that IPSC should be a baseline.
  • If you already have a hunting rifle, then get a precision rifle and be done. You shoot maybe 20 rounds out of a hunting rifle in a season. If you get into precision rifle, you'll shoot 20 rounds in under an hour. Or, if you are of the spray&pray ilk, 5 minutes. Heh. I saw a 20-something show up with his new RPR and a case of Hornady 6.5CM match rounds. Within 15 mjnutes, that rifle was literally smoking hot and he had absolutely no idea how to hit anything except the plate-sized 200-yard target he had dinged a handful of times. Goal is to learn something from every shot. Too boring? Take up 3-gun or somesuch.
  • In my experience, if you're getting a factory rifle, Tikka is the easy button, and a T3X TAC A1 gets you a competition-ready rifle right out of the box. Yes, there are better chassis, better this, better that available for the T3X - but for the beginning precision rifleman, the TAC A1 is the easy button. I shot one for a year and a half and sold it in a day when I moved to customs.
  • I can't speak to Howa or Bergara rifles. You can go even cheaper with Savage or Ruger. But when you go to sell those... good luck.
  • Don't cheap out on glass in order to get "more rifle." Better to go the other way around. Putting a $250 scope on a $4000 rifle is like putting $99 tires on a Porsche. Fool's errand.
  • If you're on a budget, there's nothing wrong with a Harris bipod as long as it's upgrqaded with a Pod-Loc and the abominable sling swivel attachment is upgraded to an RRS HC-Pro ARCA/picatinney adapter. This will come in about $100 less than an Atlas BT65-NC unit equipped with an RRS BTC-Pro adapter... but the latter won't need replacing unless you want to. Yeah, you can spend far, far more on MDT, Thunderbeast, or other bipods, but that's utterly ridiculous at your budget point.
  • Do.Not.Waste.Your.Money on $29.95 bipods. And if you buy one of the counterfeit Atlases or similar off Amazon... yeah, you'll find out how creative the precision rifle community can be in describing you, your heritage, and what you can do to yourself.
This hobby ain't cheap. You'll do better to save up for recognized good entry-level stuff which will sell easily and quickly.

Good luck.
 
Depending on where in the BC Rockies you are, we have a small match series up here in BC, and I find that matches are typically the best way to come out and try a BUNCH of different gear and accessories in a short amount of time! Of course, there is a lot of different calibers, scopes, chassis, barrels, you name it, to choose from, but there is a ton of good advice and solid shooters up here!

Check out the BC Precision Rifle League (BCPRL) for mostly Lower Mainland and Okanagan (for now) based stuff or the Southern Alberta Precision Rifle League (SAPRL) if you're closer to Calgary, Medicine Hat or Edmonton! Alternatively, the guys in SK are also doing some stuff too, but that's a bit of a haul.

Long story short, there are good resources up here and feel free to PM me if you have questions :)

- Josh
 
I was in a similar position a few years back.

Went with a Howa 26in heavy barreled action in .308 & put it in a MDT LSS-XL chassis with a MDT 20moa rail & MDT rings.
Here in Aus the HCR & Ruger RPR were about the same money it was considerably cheaper to go the way I did.

Was happy enough with it to get another in Howa BA in 6.5cm & put that one in a MDT LSS-XL gen2 when the MDT crew came to visit Aus & my young shooting mate got the same barreled action but put it in a MDT ESS.
Since these guys came half way around the world to visit & were very helpful as well as generous with their time, I will support them even more whenever I can.

Others I know love their Tikka's & you won't go wrong with one of those either.(y)


PM MDT Josh he knows what he is talking about.



Ps @MDT_Josh,
I need a couple of Mag extender springs for mag extenders I bought at one the sales a couple of years ago & have not been able to get them here so far, can I order them direct or can I get a couple put in with an order sent to the shop here with a note that they are for me please.(more than happy for them to make their cut on them)
Pm me if that is more suitable.
Thanks
Drew
 
I'll go against the grain and suggest a Bergara HMR Pro in 6.5 Creedmoor in the heavy barrel version. It comes with a Trigger Tech Primary adjustable trigger and uses AICS pattern mags. It's also a Rem 700 pattern so accessories are plentiful. A few upgrades over the standard HMR series are worth the extra coin in my opinion. Those are stainless steel action and barrel, fluted bolt ,floating interchangeable bolt head, Trigger Tech trigger, grey cerakote, 8-40 scope base screws and made in the USA vs Spain.

Those things are awesome until the bolt shears off.
 
Depending on where in the BC Rockies you are, we have a small match series up here in BC, and I find that matches are typically the best way to come out and try a BUNCH of different gear and accessories in a short amount of time! Of course, there is a lot of different calibers, scopes, chassis, barrels, you name it, to choose from, but there is a ton of good advice and solid shooters up here!

Check out the BC Precision Rifle League (BCPRL) for mostly Lower Mainland and Okanagan (for now) based stuff or the Southern Alberta Precision Rifle League (SAPRL) if you're closer to Calgary, Medicine Hat or Edmonton! Alternatively, the guys in SK are also doing some stuff too, but that's a bit of a haul.

Long story short, there are good resources up here and feel free to PM me if you have questions :)

- Josh
Thanks so much dude, I appreciate it!
 
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Those things are awesome until the bolt shears off.
As far as I know that was an issue with the bolt in the B14 action of the HMR. The HMR Pro uses the Premier action which has a different bolt. At any rate, that issue with the bolts in the B14 action was corrected in 2019.
 
Tikka and Arken are the easy button. I would go 223 especially if your mostly shooting less than 1000y. Half the cost of powder roughly, decent bullets and brass can be had for relatively cheap. 308 isn't a bad choice but Ive tired of the recoil on mine. I would go 6.5 or 223. I like to factor in component cost and availability
I cannot over state how much I like my Arken, it really is a great scope.
 
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Tikka and Arken are the easy button. I would go 223 especially if your mostly shooting less than 1000y. Half the cost of powder roughly, decent bullets and brass can be had for relatively cheap. 308 isn't a bad choice but Ive tired of the recoil on mine. I would go 6.5 or 223. I like to factor in component cost and availability
I cannot over state how much I like my Arken, it really is a great scope.
Is Arken the brand or model?
 
What's your timeline for this? Do you need it right away or can it wait a bit?

Something to consider would be to hold off and not rush into something just to have it in hand. This would give you more time to build up a bigger (read: better) budget for what you are looking for, even though you may not know exactly what that is right now.

Speaking from the perspective of someone who is notoriously impatient, I cannot stress enough how important it is to wait for the right time to get the right stuff and not have to replace it down the line as you outgrow it or upgrade it.

As EJ1001 alluded to in Post #2 in this thread, you don't need to jump into a custom or AI, but don't skimp out, because you'll hate it later. Don't be the guy who spends $900 on something instead of $1000 just to save a nominal amount of cash on something that you'll end up selling for a loss in order to upgrade later.
 
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What's your timeline for this? Do you need it right away or can it wait a bit?

Something to consider would be to hold off and not rush into something just to have it in hand. This would give you more time to build up a bigger (read: better) budget for what you are looking for, even though you may not know exactly what that is right now.

Speaking from the perspective of someone who is notoriously impatient, I cannot stress enough how important it is to wait for the right time to get the right stuff and not have to replace it down the line as you outgrow it or upgrade it.

As EJ1001 alluded to in Post #2 in this thread, you don't need to jump into a custom or AI, but don't skimp out, because you'll hate it later. Don't be the guy who spends $900 on something instead of $1000 just to save a nominal amount of cash on something that you'll end up selling for a loss in order to upgrade later.
What he said. ^

To add on, get what you really want, compromises are never what you really wanted.

And whatever you do, when you make up your mind and are making the purchase….DON”T EVER let anyone tell you that you don’t want that, and they always say, “this is what you want.” 110% of the time, its not what you want, its what they have in stock and want to unload on you.
 
I was in a similar position a few years back.

Went with a Howa 26in heavy barreled action in .308 & put it in a MDT LSS-XL chassis with a MDT 20moa rail & MDT rings.
Here in Aus the HCR & Ruger RPR were about the same money it was considerably cheaper to go the way I did.

Was happy enough with it to get another in Howa BA in 6.5cm & put that one in a MDT LSS-XL gen2 when the MDT crew came to visit Aus & my young shooting mate got the same barreled action but put it in a MDT ESS.
Since these guys came half way around the world to visit & were very helpful as well as generous with their time, I will support them even more whenever I can.

Others I know love their Tikka's & you won't go wrong with one of those either.(y)


PM MDT Josh he knows what he is talking about.



Ps @MDT_Josh,
I need a couple of Mag extender springs for mag extenders I bought at one the sales a couple of years ago & have not been able to get them here so far, can I order them direct or can I get a couple put in with an order sent to the shop here with a note that they are for me please.(more than happy for them to make their cut on them)
Pm me if that is more suitable.
Thanks
Drew
That's awesome man and happy to hear the love from down under!

As for your questions, please email us at [email protected] or give us a call at 1-604-393-0800 and we'll be sure to help you out as best we can!

- Josh