Gunsmithing Lube Options and Their Applications

[elmuzzlebreak]

Going to maybe rattle the cage here but...lube for precision rifles ARs and Bolt guns.

Is there a case for grease over oil or is it the other way around? I recently got a hold of cherry balmz and was using it in my 6.5 AR10. So far no issues but looking to get feedback on what works in terms of products and regimens.

 

[NWnewguy]

I like to use grease in high pressure areas and oil in lower pressure areas. Really any decent ones out there will work. Most firearms specific lubes are repurposed from other industries, so a little research can save you a little money, or you can read one of the numerous threads on here arguing the virtues of different oils and lubes.

 

[JimLee]

 

[Strykervet]

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I don't like the persistent smells of auto grease and oil and some of it isn't too good to get on you and some of it is VERY bad to breathe in the vapors and/or mist created during firing, depending.

I use CLP mostly, I prefer TW25B. I use the grease like I'd use lithium during a build according to the TM (barrel nut, buttstock, etc.). I also use it INSIDE the trigger group, but not ON it where dirt can buildup. Basically, if dirt and sand buildup in an area, I don't use grease. If it can be cleaned and oiled after, I usually do it that way as a rule of thumb.

TW25B is slicker than CLP but it costs more so I typically use CLP more often due to that. Plus it comes in spray bottles and I can fill my Marsh brush up with it for cleaning an M2 (a Marsh brush is THE tool to have for cleaning and lubing large weapons, belt feeders, etc., and is also nice for oiling down large numbers of weapons quickly as the brush gets in places a rag won't).

But I also still have a bottle of LSA from the late 80's and it still works just fine so I use it too.

 

[JimLee]

I don't like the persistent smells of auto grease and oil and some of it isn't too good to get on you and some of it is VERY bad to breathe in the vapors and/or mist created during firing, depending.

I use CLP mostly, I prefer TW25B. I use the grease like I'd use lithium during a build according to the TM (barrel nut, buttstock, etc.). I also use it INSIDE the trigger group, but not ON it where dirt can buildup. Basically, if dirt and sand buildup in an area, I don't use grease. If it can be cleaned and oiled after, I usually do it that way as a rule of thumb.

TW25B is slicker than CLP but it costs more so I typically use CLP more often due to that. Plus it comes in spray bottles and I can fill my Marsh brush up with it for cleaning an M2 (a Marsh brush is THE tool to have for cleaning and lubing large weapons, belt feeders, etc., and is also nice for oiling down large numbers of weapons quickly as the brush gets in places a rag won't).

But I also still have a bottle of LSA from the late 80's and it still works just fine so I use it too.

I live in the windy desert, I run my bolt guns as dry as I can with just a film of grease on the lugs. I clean mostly with CLP so whatever miniscule residue is left over from that after wiping it down is all the lube I need. On my AR's I run Fail Safe bolts, just wiped down with CLP and once again as dry as I can possibly get them with a rag. Works well for me in this dirty dusty environment. I use so little I never smell any of it and I imagine there is no vapors developed during firing that are any unhealthier than the gasses produced by gunpowder, probably nothing at all as sparingly as I use it. If I lived somewhere with a different climate I would have to totally rethink my cleaning/lube regiment. One thing I do believe though, 98% or better of gun cleaning products and lube are just overpriced snake oil, usually another commercial product repackaged and repriced through the roof. I've tried dozens and have never had any make a gun run better or last longer than what I get out of a little CLP and high temp synthetic grease. I think opinions and experience will vary wildly on this issue just as much as: What caliber for "X", MOA or MIL, Best "X" brand, etc, etc..