So, definitely one of the most boring parts of reloading has got to be lubricating the brass. But I've seen some very interesting trends recently when I've monitored the performance of my sizing die compared to the way I've lubricated the brass. So my question is, what do people consider BEST PRACTICES when it comes to lubricating their brass for FL sizing? What have other's noticed about the consistency of their brass length compared to their lubrication habits? And by consistency I mean from piece to piece, but also consistency from the first piece to the last piece when you're reloading a large lot (say 500pcs). Thoughts? (Searches come up with very little here, or on other reloading forums).
- Thread starter swhiteh3
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The best? A smear of imperial wax on the bodies and a dip of the necks in their graphite ceramic media. Its slow.
I used to dump them in a big zip loc and spray in and shuffle but I found the lube inside the necks lacking.
I have taken to standing them up on end in a shoe box, giving some sprays at an angle to purposefully get it inside the necks and then tumping them over on their sides for a few sprays on the outside and shuffling it around.
Yeah, one complaint is that the cardboard box adsorbs some lube for a bit but thats just an extra spray away and eventually it will get saturated and act as a lube pad, when I shake them about it gives a nice even lube but absorbs all the excess. You could do it in a plastic bin if you wanted.
I work in 100 round batches just because thats all I can fit in the tumbler at a time. By the time you finish a batch of 100 the previous batch will be finished tumbling the lube off.
I used to dump them in a big zip loc and spray in and shuffle but I found the lube inside the necks lacking.
I have taken to standing them up on end in a shoe box, giving some sprays at an angle to purposefully get it inside the necks and then tumping them over on their sides for a few sprays on the outside and shuffling it around.
Yeah, one complaint is that the cardboard box adsorbs some lube for a bit but thats just an extra spray away and eventually it will get saturated and act as a lube pad, when I shake them about it gives a nice even lube but absorbs all the excess. You could do it in a plastic bin if you wanted.
I work in 100 round batches just because thats all I can fit in the tumbler at a time. By the time you finish a batch of 100 the previous batch will be finished tumbling the lube off.
- Mar 15, 2018
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I use an old baking sheet, stand them up and spray at a 45 degree angle from all sides. Just a blast from each side, but the angle lubes the necks and hitting them from all sides seems to accomplish the job nicely. I also tumble after sizing but without the Stainless Steel media (I use the SS initially when cleaning after I decap) to wash off the lube.
I moved from touching each and every single case (ugh) to lube with Imperial sizing die wax, to using the 6.5 Guys 'recipe' (basically liquid lanolin diluted approx. 10:1 ratio with alcohol) in a cardboard box that is pretty well 'seasoned' at this point 
.
I don't sweat the whole getting stuff inside the necks (or not). I dry tumble for a couple hours first, and the small amount of residual dust plus the carbon layer inside the neck after firing is plenty. Maybe if you were over-sizing the crap out of your necks, it might be worth purposely lubing the inside of the necks. After sizing, I dry tumble again for 20-30 minutes to remove the lube.
.I don't sweat the whole getting stuff inside the necks (or not). I dry tumble for a couple hours first, and the small amount of residual dust plus the carbon layer inside the neck after firing is plenty. Maybe if you were over-sizing the crap out of your necks, it might be worth purposely lubing the inside of the necks. After sizing, I dry tumble again for 20-30 minutes to remove the lube.
I've tried just about everything I can think of, going way overboard on most very possible detail and now I am back to the "good enough" camp with my reloading even for PR matches.
I've pulled everything back even reduced the number of calibers I use, sold of a bunch of my wiz band benchrest quality reloading gadgits, to maintain my sanity.
I still always keep my brass in batches marked with the number of times they have been reloaded and what they are reloaded with..
I absolutely agree with spife7980 I have to grab a piece of brass to put it into the shell plate, I already have imperial wax on my hand (yep, it is kinda messy). In about the time it takes to handle the brass it is lubed.. It seems like the slowest process, but in reality for the single stage press, it is about the most efficient. Once size I drop it directly into a tumbler.
I do not tumble before, but I do run two tumblers so I can process more brass and keep the batches separate. I've gone thru the ultrasonics to wet tumbling-- some process make the ES go up, so I am back to old school dry tumbling to remove the lube.. I've found the best media to keep from clumping and getting wedged in the flash hole to be and the most convenient to be Frankford Arsenal Corn Cob Media 15 lbs bags about $17 shipped.
If I am running my Dillon 650 I use either Dillion Spray lube or a home brew.. One Shot dries too fast.. The progressive 650 is primarily for pistol at my house.
I've pulled everything back even reduced the number of calibers I use, sold of a bunch of my wiz band benchrest quality reloading gadgits, to maintain my sanity.
I still always keep my brass in batches marked with the number of times they have been reloaded and what they are reloaded with..
I absolutely agree with spife7980 I have to grab a piece of brass to put it into the shell plate, I already have imperial wax on my hand (yep, it is kinda messy). In about the time it takes to handle the brass it is lubed.. It seems like the slowest process, but in reality for the single stage press, it is about the most efficient. Once size I drop it directly into a tumbler.
I do not tumble before, but I do run two tumblers so I can process more brass and keep the batches separate. I've gone thru the ultrasonics to wet tumbling-- some process make the ES go up, so I am back to old school dry tumbling to remove the lube.. I've found the best media to keep from clumping and getting wedged in the flash hole to be and the most convenient to be Frankford Arsenal Corn Cob Media 15 lbs bags about $17 shipped.
If I am running my Dillon 650 I use either Dillion Spray lube or a home brew.. One Shot dries too fast.. The progressive 650 is primarily for pistol at my house.
My personal best practices is throwing all the brass in a tupperware tub, spraying with alcohol/lanolin mix, and then sizing after the alcohol evaporates. I've found it to be extremely consistent from piece to piece and from loading session to loading session. Enough spray gets inside the case neck that it keeps things running smoothly. Part of that also is that I've got my dies set to where there is not a large amount of inside neck expansion so I don't need heavy lube inside the neck.
The whole process takes essentially no time at all and when it comes time to feed the press it runs super fast. I do all my processing on Dillon progressive presses, whether bulk 223 trainer ammo or precision match ammo.
The whole process takes essentially no time at all and when it comes time to feed the press it runs super fast. I do all my processing on Dillon progressive presses, whether bulk 223 trainer ammo or precision match ammo.
I size 223 on a single-stage. I use a canvas bag and OneShot. The bag is oily so I hit the cases, roll them around, hit them again, roll around again, and pour them into a basket. I usually do 100 at a time. After sizing, I tumble in corncob for about 30 minutes. I use down-and-up sizing with 223.
Precision is different. I am using Redding button dies, shimmed to create the correct bump. I use Imperial and size like this.
Grab a case and lube it, put it into the shellholder, lower the handle. Grab another case and lube it. Raise the handle, remove sized case, insert new case, lower the handle. Grab another case and lube it. Raise the handle, remove sized case, insert new case, lower the handle. Repeat from "Grab another case".
The brass is being sized for the whole time it takes to lube the next case - much longer than just down and up - the extra time seems to let it flow where it should be. This procedure seems to make results more uniform. I originally was told to take out the old case, insert the new case, lower the handle, wipe the lube off the sized case, lube a new case, raise the handle, and so forth. Wiping the lube off the sized case slowed me down a lot and it was not measurably better than what I am doing.
I tested my method compared to down and up. D-and-u gave pretty good consistency but about 10% of the cases were .002 or .003 too long. I found that those cases didn't shoot the same and they gave me weird bolt handling. With this method my cases are the target size or .001 longer. I don't anneal very often and I mix brass firing counts in my batches - both practices should make my results less consistent but the method seems to take care of that. I ran tests with Lapua 308, LC LR 308, and 2 different 300 Win Mag headstamps. Same results in all cases.
After sizing, I tumble in corncob for about 30 minutes. I buy corncob in 40-pound units from Grainger. It is dusty so I use dryer sheets. It is pretty cheap in those units so I don't feel the need to let it get oily.
Precision is different. I am using Redding button dies, shimmed to create the correct bump. I use Imperial and size like this.
Grab a case and lube it, put it into the shellholder, lower the handle. Grab another case and lube it. Raise the handle, remove sized case, insert new case, lower the handle. Grab another case and lube it. Raise the handle, remove sized case, insert new case, lower the handle. Repeat from "Grab another case".
The brass is being sized for the whole time it takes to lube the next case - much longer than just down and up - the extra time seems to let it flow where it should be. This procedure seems to make results more uniform. I originally was told to take out the old case, insert the new case, lower the handle, wipe the lube off the sized case, lube a new case, raise the handle, and so forth. Wiping the lube off the sized case slowed me down a lot and it was not measurably better than what I am doing.
I tested my method compared to down and up. D-and-u gave pretty good consistency but about 10% of the cases were .002 or .003 too long. I found that those cases didn't shoot the same and they gave me weird bolt handling. With this method my cases are the target size or .001 longer. I don't anneal very often and I mix brass firing counts in my batches - both practices should make my results less consistent but the method seems to take care of that. I ran tests with Lapua 308, LC LR 308, and 2 different 300 Win Mag headstamps. Same results in all cases.
After sizing, I tumble in corncob for about 30 minutes. I buy corncob in 40-pound units from Grainger. It is dusty so I use dryer sheets. It is pretty cheap in those units so I don't feel the need to let it get oily.
You pull the handle down (inserting the brass into the die) and you pull the handle up (extracting brass from the die).
Hes saying that he lubes the next piece while he lets the current piece dwell in the die for a couple seconds.
I leave my brass in the die for a few seconds as well. Brass has a memory and wants to spring back, letting it sit for a bit helps overcome that. Or so goes the theory.
I see, thanks.
I like to do one thing at a time. I'll think about it, but outside of a progressive press, I like to concentrate on a single task.
I like to do one thing at a time. I'll think about it, but outside of a progressive press, I like to concentrate on a single task.
D
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For 223, about 100 cases with lanolin alchohol mix in a zip lock bag and then poured into a stainless steel bowl. I size them and trim them with the Giraud and load them on the Dillon. I wipe off excess lube before putting them in the box.
Precision stuff gets the neck brushed out with a tiny bit of lube on the brush, the outside is lubed by hand using mink oil. After sizing, cases are wiped clean and trimmed and chamfered and loaded on the Co-ax.
Precision stuff gets the neck brushed out with a tiny bit of lube on the brush, the outside is lubed by hand using mink oil. After sizing, cases are wiped clean and trimmed and chamfered and loaded on the Co-ax.
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I pretty much just keep the pad of my right index finger a little greasy by flicking it across the wax every couple of cartridges. Most people over lube like a menopausal whore. It doesn't take much at all; just a slight film. I handle the cartridges with my right hand, and just make sure to rub them as I'm handling them. It literally adds no time.
When I did everything on ye ole single stage, I was of the same opinion. Heck, for the stuff that won't fit easily on the 550 - like my .300WM and .338LM - I still do. But most everything else, from bulk .223 Rem 'blaster' ammo to my 1k F/TR loads... is done on the Dillon. Add up the time to lube each case by hand, insert it in the press, do the first operation, remove it from the press, then if you do a second step like expand with a mandrel, double that... vs. spray lube in a box/tote and run them thru one tool head on a 550. It most certainly 'adds time'.
The only reason I haven't moved to a *650* is because I have enough invested in 550 tool heads and such that the initial startup cost to switch over would be ugly.
I stand up my brass on my bench. I rub my trigger finger against the Imperial wax and smear it against my thumb. I pick up a case and lube the body. I set the case down. Once I lube all the cases I size them in my body die. I wipe off the lube with an old T-shirt. The cases are all plus/minus .0005” on the shoulder.
Lanolin/alcohol mix, spray them down, let the alcohol evaporate then dump into the case feeder.
This is how I do it. As you said, standing them up and spraying inside the necks is important to get consistent shoulder bump.
You spray inside the necks? Can't that mix with the powder?
It can if you dont clean the lube out. I give them a vibratory tumble to remove the lube after sizing and before starting on trimming, primers, seating etc.
Been using the LEE sizing lube in the tubes for 25 years and it works great, never had a stuck case no dented shoulders, doesn't cross contaminate powder is fairly cheap and you can find it just about anywhere.
I tried the RCBS lube and pad once, it's sat collecting dust every since.
If I were to load any high volume plinking ammo I would probably use the spray lanolin but mainly just load precision rifle ammo and rarely more than 200 rounds at a time.
I tried the RCBS lube and pad once, it's sat collecting dust every since.
If I were to load any high volume plinking ammo I would probably use the spray lanolin but mainly just load precision rifle ammo and rarely more than 200 rounds at a time.
I used to be concerned about this too, but now I don't have any expander on my FL sizing die - I size the ID with a Sinclair in a separate step. Certainly the amount of lube on the Sinclair could mess with the bump if it was too dry and putting too much force into the shoulder.
Only reason it bothered me was the inconsistent trim lengths with the Giraud trimmer. I considered using an expander mandrel in another step but I don't really feel like adding another step to the process even though it would probably give better results.
I was told not to put the wax on the neck or shoulder so that is dry for me. Is that correct?
Is graphite on the neck required or should i put some wax up there?
Is graphite on the neck required or should i put some wax up there?
It depends on the die.
When I am loading 223, I FL size on a single-stage then tumble to remove the lube. I use spray lube and it is all over the case - probably some inside the case too. For precision, I also size also on the single-stage, I use imperial and smear it on by hand all over the case. After sizing I tumble to remove the lube. My thinking goes like this: I am changing the case dimensions by squeezing it - everything is moving around. I don't want anything to stick to the inside of the die so I lube everything except for the base that the ram pushes on - it wouldn't hurt to do that, but there is no need.
I do not get dents - they are a classic sign of over-lubrication. In the past I used a different technique and I did get dents so I know what to look for. If you aren't sure, take a case you don't need, lube the bejeebers out of it and run it into your die. You get this kinda cool-looking series of dents in the shoulder. Now you had your fun, clean out the inside of the die before you go on and don't do that - it is bad for your cases.
I resize cases for a friend who shoots a 30-06. He bought a set of dies with an expander. When I resize his brass with that die, I tumble to get them clean, dip the necks in graphite, wipe on imperial, size the case, then tumble again. The graphite is inside the neck and provides lube for the expander. the outside of the neck is sized by the die body so it needs lube too.
Use Imperial Sizing Die Wax and forget everything else out there.
No tubs no containers no spray bottles no waiting for evaporation no mixing and most importantly no stuck cases!!!
Works on 14 Flea to 50BMG.
If you don't have the time to lube your cases maybe shooting isn't your sport?
No tubs no containers no spray bottles no waiting for evaporation no mixing and most importantly no stuck cases!!!
Works on 14 Flea to 50BMG.
If you don't have the time to lube your cases maybe shooting isn't your sport?
+1 for the old imperial and ceramic media
ive used every lube you can think of and a few youd never think to use as sizing lube...
5-15 synthetic motor oil
synthetic tranny fluid
tri flow
imperial wax
lee lube
dillon lube
chapstick...just about anything they say is slippery ive tried looking for the best/easiest to use lube...lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol is by far the best..easiest..longest lasting lube ive tried...i mix 12/1...throw my cases in a gallon zip lock bag 2 sprays roll the bag around a little open it up and start sizing...toss the cases right in the dry tumbler with toasted buckwheat groats for 15mins and ready to load.
ive just the last 4-5mos started doing the same thing as diver160651....ive got back to basics and have cut hours off of prep and loading times.
5-15 synthetic motor oil
synthetic tranny fluid
tri flow
imperial wax
lee lube
dillon lube
chapstick...just about anything they say is slippery ive tried looking for the best/easiest to use lube...lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol is by far the best..easiest..longest lasting lube ive tried...i mix 12/1...throw my cases in a gallon zip lock bag 2 sprays roll the bag around a little open it up and start sizing...toss the cases right in the dry tumbler with toasted buckwheat groats for 15mins and ready to load.
ive just the last 4-5mos started doing the same thing as diver160651....ive got back to basics and have cut hours off of prep and loading times.
So for those who might be interested, I've come to some conclusions since my first post. I'll share them here, since they might help others.
Since that post, I've closely monitored the average and SD of the case lengths I was producing, while varying my lubrication strategy. In fact, I ended up coming with a granite surface plate and a dial indicator for more precision measurements. (Incidentally I got significantly more consistent results using the Sinclair steel taper-cut inserts compared to the Hornady aluminum shoulder inserts).
The long and short is that I was WAY under-lubricating the cases. I was using 2-4 pumps of a Franklin Arsenal lube spray (which I think is very similar to the Dillon spray, but I'm not sure if the sprayer is the same, ie has the same amount of fluid per spray) per 100 cases, and then tumbling them in a carboard box or plastic bag.
My new process has me putting the cases into loading trays (50 pcs per tray), and I spray 8 pumps per tray. The 8 pumps are equally spaced around the tray, and at a slight angle downward to ensure that plenty gets into the case necks. I spray each tray just I start sizing the tray before it, so each tray has time to dry equal to the time it takes to size 50 cases.
This has improved consistency from tray to tray, reduced the SD of the case lengths, and done a better job of lubricating the inside of the neck for the Sinclair mandrel operation.
I did try other lubes, but found the lube I already had was doing as good or better job as anything I tried. I did try the wax as several suggested, and it worked quite well, but I just found it very slow and messy.
The only downside to the method I outlined is that you pretty much need to clean the trays after you use them like this. I have about 20 trays for .308 bolt face calibers, and when they get sprayed, they get thrown into a "dirty" box and when I run low, I throw them all in the dishwasher (low heat).
FWIW, after sizing (and trimming / chamfering / deburring) I do clean the brass again, in a wet tumbler (SS pins), for just 3 minutes, followed by a very thorough cold-water rinse. I put the cases in cookie sheets lined with towels, roll a towel lightly on top of them until they appear dry, then remove the damp towels and let them air dry for 24+ hours. Before I prime each one, I inspect it for a clear flash hole.
Since that post, I've closely monitored the average and SD of the case lengths I was producing, while varying my lubrication strategy. In fact, I ended up coming with a granite surface plate and a dial indicator for more precision measurements. (Incidentally I got significantly more consistent results using the Sinclair steel taper-cut inserts compared to the Hornady aluminum shoulder inserts).
The long and short is that I was WAY under-lubricating the cases. I was using 2-4 pumps of a Franklin Arsenal lube spray (which I think is very similar to the Dillon spray, but I'm not sure if the sprayer is the same, ie has the same amount of fluid per spray) per 100 cases, and then tumbling them in a carboard box or plastic bag.
My new process has me putting the cases into loading trays (50 pcs per tray), and I spray 8 pumps per tray. The 8 pumps are equally spaced around the tray, and at a slight angle downward to ensure that plenty gets into the case necks. I spray each tray just I start sizing the tray before it, so each tray has time to dry equal to the time it takes to size 50 cases.
This has improved consistency from tray to tray, reduced the SD of the case lengths, and done a better job of lubricating the inside of the neck for the Sinclair mandrel operation.
I did try other lubes, but found the lube I already had was doing as good or better job as anything I tried. I did try the wax as several suggested, and it worked quite well, but I just found it very slow and messy.
The only downside to the method I outlined is that you pretty much need to clean the trays after you use them like this. I have about 20 trays for .308 bolt face calibers, and when they get sprayed, they get thrown into a "dirty" box and when I run low, I throw them all in the dishwasher (low heat).
FWIW, after sizing (and trimming / chamfering / deburring) I do clean the brass again, in a wet tumbler (SS pins), for just 3 minutes, followed by a very thorough cold-water rinse. I put the cases in cookie sheets lined with towels, roll a towel lightly on top of them until they appear dry, then remove the damp towels and let them air dry for 24+ hours. Before I prime each one, I inspect it for a clear flash hole.
I use Hornady one shot. I lay 25 out on a towel and spray at a slight angle to get a little inside the necks and on the body/shoulders, then roll the case 180 degrees and respray just the body/shoulders. Works great and quick. When I first started I was not using enough lube and did have some shoulder bump consistency problems. I also “prelube” the sizing die and the mandrel prior to reloading. this is letting me die brass prep at about 500 cases per hour on a Dillon 550.
I also tumble after sizing to remove any residue and use a universal recapping die to clear any media from the flash hole prior to priming.
I also tumble after sizing to remove any residue and use a universal recapping die to clear any media from the flash hole prior to priming.
I do every little step manually on a disabled 4 hole Lee press.
Finger tip Lee Lube, shoulder and below, size with a Redding body die and bump.
Nothing on the shoulder.
Then a lee Collet Neck die, no lube.
When seating I dip the bullet base in Mica.
I clean up during inspection with a clean towel.
Finger tip Lee Lube, shoulder and below, size with a Redding body die and bump.
Nothing on the shoulder.
Then a lee Collet Neck die, no lube.
When seating I dip the bullet base in Mica.
I clean up during inspection with a clean towel.
Holy shit! How long does it take some of you guys to load 100 rounds???
I size on single stage with inline fab case kicker arm. I spray the cases in a plastic tub with Hornady one shot, shake them up and go to town. I don't re tumble them when I'm done either.
Chamfer, deburr, and also have a bore brush for necks on Frankfort arsenal case prep center. Done
I size on single stage with inline fab case kicker arm. I spray the cases in a plastic tub with Hornady one shot, shake them up and go to town. I don't re tumble them when I'm done either.
Chamfer, deburr, and also have a bore brush for necks on Frankfort arsenal case prep center. Done
I just set my brass in the styrofoam shell holder from a 50rd box of Hornady American gunner that I cut in half. I’ll spray with hornady one shot on all four sides at a 45 degree angle to get the inside of the necks. Probably wasteful of lube but whatever. It seems to work best staggered like this for more even coverage.
I’ve become ridiculously OCD on my brass prep. Mainly because I’ve come to enjoy it.
I’ve tried most things and I get the most consistent (within .0005) shoulder bump from imperial wax. I’m using a SAC fl bushing die with the whidden click adjustable die ring (this thing is tits for fine tuning bump).
My fired brass process has once again evolved and now I:
Deprime
Run in 6mm expander mandrel
Put brass in 21st century lathe
Spin with rag to clean off any debris
Spin with 0000 steel wool on neck to clean carbon off
Spray one shot on neck
Run into neck turner (necks were turned when new) and this just cuts out any brass that has been pushed down from neck bushing
Spin with rag to wipe off 1 shot
Spin with 0000 to burnish neck
Anneal with AMP
Run .22 brush wrapped in 0000 steel wool into necks. This gets rid of a lot of the buildup from annealing inside neck.
Use imperial wax and bump shoulder .003 (this is what allows my bolt to fall free with gravity for this particular barrel) with appropriate bushing to undersize brass by .001 or so
Run appropriate mandrel for .002 neck tension
Dip in acetone and wipe with rag to get wax off
Spot check a few with a .241 pin gauge
Trim/chamfer/deburr in giraud
Run .22 mop sprayed with 1 shot in all necks (to keep seating friction consistent
prime/powder/seat
I use a hydro press to seat. This is my last QC check. Since I have verified .002 neck tension with a pin gauge, and used lube in case necks, everything *should* be consistent. I just make sure I’m within 10-20 psi on the hydro press. Anything too little or too much gets pulled and redo sizing/mandrel. Or I toss it in the practice pile.
Again, this is way way way more than I need to do. But I actually enjoy attempting to make perfect ammo.
I’ve tried most things and I get the most consistent (within .0005) shoulder bump from imperial wax. I’m using a SAC fl bushing die with the whidden click adjustable die ring (this thing is tits for fine tuning bump).
My fired brass process has once again evolved and now I:
Deprime
Run in 6mm expander mandrel
Put brass in 21st century lathe
Spin with rag to clean off any debris
Spin with 0000 steel wool on neck to clean carbon off
Spray one shot on neck
Run into neck turner (necks were turned when new) and this just cuts out any brass that has been pushed down from neck bushing
Spin with rag to wipe off 1 shot
Spin with 0000 to burnish neck
Anneal with AMP
Run .22 brush wrapped in 0000 steel wool into necks. This gets rid of a lot of the buildup from annealing inside neck.
Use imperial wax and bump shoulder .003 (this is what allows my bolt to fall free with gravity for this particular barrel) with appropriate bushing to undersize brass by .001 or so
Run appropriate mandrel for .002 neck tension
Dip in acetone and wipe with rag to get wax off
Spot check a few with a .241 pin gauge
Trim/chamfer/deburr in giraud
Run .22 mop sprayed with 1 shot in all necks (to keep seating friction consistent
prime/powder/seat
I use a hydro press to seat. This is my last QC check. Since I have verified .002 neck tension with a pin gauge, and used lube in case necks, everything *should* be consistent. I just make sure I’m within 10-20 psi on the hydro press. Anything too little or too much gets pulled and redo sizing/mandrel. Or I toss it in the practice pile.
Again, this is way way way more than I need to do. But I actually enjoy attempting to make perfect ammo.
After reading your post I’m just gonna load new brass from now on.
Hey, reloading is an enjoyable art form. If one rushes through it to get done, there is a lot of potential accuracy left on the loading bench.
I do all that shit with new brass.
Just to make once fired brass for matches.
Just to make once fired brass for matches.
That is cool, I am one who can definitely appreciate the process in chasing consistency and accuracy.
Then I take it and shoot matches with 2moa targets that I’ve won with factory ammo with a 40+ ES.
????
My Excel-spreadsheet making and meticulous note-taking has led me to try to be first in line for the AMP data-logging bullet seater. Reading your note, I'll bet your waiting for one too.....
Yep. I sat down with them at SHOT for a demo. I was pretty impressed and the software was just crude graphs.
Once they get a GUI worked out, I'm going to have to go out and buy Wilson bullet seaters for all my calibers....
I make a very strong concentrated case lube I sell on here in the reloading section of the PX. Solid, pure, USP pharmaceutical grade anhydrous lanolin and pure, 99% USP anhydrous isopropyl alcohol, you can't make it any stronger and expect it to work. In fact, it's more or less a concentrate and works better if you dilute it with another bottle of alcohol, and even then it's many times stronger than the competition. Little goes a long way and 2 16oz. bottles lasts a long time regardless of how many you're sizing. Will custom mix it to any strength too.
Basically the easier it is to operate the press, the less wear and tear on the dies (and even the pins and joints in the press) as well as less work and heat stress on the brass. This means everything works smoother and lasts longer including the brass. Not to mention just a smoother and easier and more pleasant experience operating the press. And it wouldn't surprise me if it yields more uniform results although I haven't mapped that.
Shitty lube can literally ruin the day loading and it's a shame the big names in reloading don't sell a decent lube between 'em I don't feel it should be up to me to be the one to make premier high end case lube, but hell, someone had to do it.
If you're tired of bad lube or tired of going through it like gangbusters, hit me up. A lot of folks really like it, claim it's the best. I agree but I'm biased and I make it so listen to them.
Basically the easier it is to operate the press, the less wear and tear on the dies (and even the pins and joints in the press) as well as less work and heat stress on the brass. This means everything works smoother and lasts longer including the brass. Not to mention just a smoother and easier and more pleasant experience operating the press. And it wouldn't surprise me if it yields more uniform results although I haven't mapped that.
Shitty lube can literally ruin the day loading and it's a shame the big names in reloading don't sell a decent lube between 'em I don't feel it should be up to me to be the one to make premier high end case lube, but hell, someone had to do it.
If you're tired of bad lube or tired of going through it like gangbusters, hit me up. A lot of folks really like it, claim it's the best. I agree but I'm biased and I make it so listen to them.
Is it a spray? Or how do you apply it? Might take you up on it.
For all intents and purposes https://www.65guys.com/brass-case-resizing-lube/
I use imperial wax. I spread it on the body with my fingers. I don't lube the necks as I use redding bushing dies with nitrided bushings.
With the Lanolin mix it is important to wait long enough for the alcohol to evaporate. Otherwise the liquid alcohol on the cases can cause your shoulder bump to be all over the place. I have had it take at least 30min for the alcohol to evaporate. When I am in a hurry I use one shot. When I have time to let the brass sit I use lanolin. I stand them up in a tupperware spray them and let the sit until they are dry, with one shot and lanolin, but in my experience one shot dries much quicker.
When I'm in a hurry I grab the lid for the tupperware container I have the brass in and use it to fan air on the cases to get the alcohol to evaporate. Stirring while fanning them can get them "tacky" and ready to size quite quickly, maybe only 2-3 minutes tops.
The alternate option is lubing them right after annealing. When the cases are warm the alcohol evaporates off very fast.
I have one of these I use for the same purpose. Maybe I am spraying too much, but I was only giving them a few minutes like one shot, then I started confirming bump and it was all over the place. I confirmed I did not have the same problem with one shot, then tried letting the mix dry longer. I didn't get the inconsistent shoulder bump after letting it dry longer.
I don't like too experiment much with reloading. I don't really like doing it. So I avoid things that throw a hitch in my process. I like the lanolin mix, I just don't trust it unless it has sat for a while. I will usually lube up a bunch the night before I plan on sizing. Especially with 223 because my tupperware will only hold 2-300 so I end up filling it 3 or 4 times lubing cases for a run.
