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Lug inlet question (TCS w/mini chassis)

sacklunch

The Sacklunch Center for Kids Who Can’t Shoot Good
Minuteman
Apr 23, 2023
48
10
Texas
I’ve had a smith bed every rifle I’ve built, except a tikka, but the oversized lug I got for it fit tight in the stock I dropped it in. This is my first experience with the mini chassis (gen 2). I just picked up a TCS for my 737r.

My ignorance is showing here, is the recess for the lug designed to be Iarger than a 700 style lug? stood it on the butt and torqued everything evenly and to manners spec. Was that lug meant to be bedded and or just seat the action tight to the butt end of that lug recess and gtg?
 
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I’ve had a smith bed every rifle I’ve built, except a tikka, but the oversized lug I got for it fit tight in the stock I dropped it in. This is my first experience with the mini chassis (gen 2). I just picked up a TCS for my 737r.

My ignorance is showing here, is the recess for the lug designed to be Iarger than a 700 style lug? stood it on the butt and torqued everything evenly and to manners spec. Was that lug meant to be bedded and or just seat the action tight to the butt end of that lug recess and gtg?
Slide the lug back against the back of he pocket, you want to remove any space that it could slide rearward under recoil making solid contact.

Easiest way is to start the bolts and then stand the rifle on its butt, gently give it a bump on the ground so it slides the action back back and then torque the bolts down so it holds there. Sounds like you did good here.

The lug pocket is large enough that you shouldn’t have to grind to fit a fat lug in. You need space ahead and to the side so you are able to install and remove it. If it were a press fit it would fight you trying to install.
 
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Don't overthink it. The recoil lug area for the mini chassis is larger so it will fit anything put in there. The area open in front of the lug means nothing. The rear of the lug lays against the mini chassis and doesn't move under recoil. Do the below and you will be fine.

Put action in chassis
Stand it up on the buttpad and let the recoil lug seat against the chassis
Snug up the action screws
Tighten front action screw to 65 in/lbs
Tighten the rear action screw to 45 in/lbs
Done.
 
Thanks fellas for the clarification…done.

I understand the logic behind mounting lug to the rear, now…

Given that…that I’ve always pulled my scope base as far back in the notches on the rail as I could and tightened…but had a smith tell me recently I want the scope mounted by pushing those rings to the front of notch in the rail. Seems counter intuitive to me…is there an explanation for a cave man?
 
Given that…that I’ve always pulled my scope base as far back in the notches on the rail as I could and tightened…but had a smith tell me recently I want the scope mounted by pushing those rings to the front of notch in the rail. Seems counter intuitive to me…is there an explanation for a cave man?

Pushing forward if correct. That way as the rifle and base are moving back during recoil there is no where for the ring cross bolt to go accept against the front of the slot in the base and keep it solidly in place.
 
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Thanks fellas for the clarification…done.

I understand the logic behind mounting lug to the rear, now…

Given that…that I’ve always pulled my scope base as far back in the notches on the rail as I could and tightened…but had a smith tell me recently I want the scope mounted by pushing those rings to the front of notch in the rail. Seems counter intuitive to me…is there an explanation for a cave man?
AS rob said, when the rifle recoils its motion when compared relative to the scope is backwards, out from under the scope. So you want the scope slide forward with solid contact in the slot so that the rifle has nowhere to go when it starts to slide backwards.
 
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