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M1A Assistance

DocRDS

Head Maffs Monkey
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 21, 2012
3,496
6,467
The Great Beyond
My M1A seems to be underperforming. I am shooting about 4 MOA at 50 yards. That is well over my capability.
I do have rather janky ammo (was shooting my leftover PPU to get scope roughed in).
Was using a Strike Eagle 1-8X Which I suspect may be the issue. It is on the standard Basset Mount. Everything appears tight (just checked it all).
Any hints as to what else may be causing this? Standard SA M1A Loaded.

My next step is I have a Leopold I can throw on, or I can put a decent scope and check that. I shot with irons, which is a tough comparison as my eyesight is crap. But I did note that I only had verticle stringing (almost no left-right) which is typical of me shooting iron sights, rather than a well dispersed 4 MOA.

Pic is at 50 yards range. Front rest, rear bag--I am certainly capable of putting all 5 in 1 square at this distance.

Iron sights my left-right dispersion is about 2MOA with a 4-6 verticle (I can barely see the target), typical of my iron sight shooting which is why I think it may not be the rifle, but I am not super attuned to the M1A system.
 

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Ammo, get some 168gr match and go from there. There are small things you can do to help improve mechanical accuracy. But it is a battle rifle, depending on the barrel, that may be what you get.
 
Gotcha--I got some 168 SMK to load up collecting dust from before when I knew better--forgot that was also part of the 'remedy' plan. I know my handloads can produce some good groups, so hopefully that would eliminate that part of the equation.

I do agree on the Battle Rifle thing--M1As are not known to be tac drivers without significant time and effort--However that kinda group I can pull with a red dot at 100, which is why I am suspicious something is not working right.
 
Make sure no part of the barrel is making contact with the stock, esp when it gets hot as that’s a commonly reported issue with the M14. Otherwise swap to the leupold and see what happens.
 
Does it fit tightly in the stock and is there clearance up front between the gas cylinder and the stock?
You may have to help me with "clearance up front between the gas cylinder and the stock" (I have no idea how much is good/bad--vaguely aware of gas cyclinder) I'll have to do some research/learning.
 
The front part of the stock that bumps up against the gas cylinder should have a tiny bit of space.

gas cylinder pic.jpg


And then when you put the rifle together after field stripping the trigger group should have some tension when it's about 1/2-3/4" from closed.

trigger tension.jpg


Honestly, lots of factory ones don't fit all that great in the stocks etc which is why glass bedding and unitizing makes a huge improvement.
 
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I had an m1a that shot 4moa with ppu. I just assumed it’s Springfield.
 
Also...make sure you can just use your hands to tighten the gas lock...if you are hammering it in place or using a wrench with a lot of force...its too much...

Also make sure your op-rod guide is center to the gas block...

Bassetts aren't known to be be the best...so...
 
FWIW... I was taught to place a dab of grease at the contact point between the "front band" and the "stock ferrule".

And surprisingly, the "handguard" fit made quite a bit of difference on mine. Making it a looser fit ( no pressure pushing on the front band ) made a noticable accuracy difference. Enough of a difference I tried the same on my AK... same positive accuracy improvement.
 
Off the top of my head I think the old National Match mods for the M14 were unitize the gas cylinder, ream the flash hider, upgrade the spring guide, polish the piston, trigger job, bed the stock, upgrade rear sight and relieve the handguard and tighten its fit.
 
Load:

175SMK, Commercial 308 Brass, CCI BR-2, 42.2gr IMR-4064. I use the same details for the 168SMK, except 43.5gr IMR-4064. OAL for each is 2.810". These loads are serious efforts to duplicate FGMM 168 and 175gr.

The upper handguard needs about 1/16" trimmed off its rear edge to allow for heat expansion during continuous fire.

When glass bedding, the trigger guard should not be completely closed, but opened and blocked from closing by placing a nickel between the trigger guard and the trigger group frame. Once cured, the coin can be removed, and the trigger guard will close with more tension.

Greg
 
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Load:

175SMK, Commercial 308 Brass, CCI BR-2, 42.2gr IMR-4064. I use the same details for the 168SMK, except 43.5gr IMR-4064. OAL for each is 2.810". These loads are serious efforts to duplicate FGMM 168 and 175gr.

The upper handguard needs about 1/16" trimmed off its rear edge to allow for heat expansion during continuous fire.

When glass bedding, the trigger guard should not be completely closed, but opened and blocked from closing by placing a nickel between the trigger guard and the trigger group frame. Once cured, the coin can be removed, and the trigger guard will close with more tension.

Greg
I went 42.5 of IMR4064 168 TMK in PPU mil brass just to be right in the middle of the Hodgdon data. I also redid my scope mount -- it moved A LOT compared with other rifles from scope remounting--between the two, its got that battle rifle accuracy I would expect.

I've learned this isn't my bolt gun, but I got decent groups at 50 yards (you can laugh, but from earlier pictures, it was kinda a mess at 50). Now its time to get a good zero at 100 and enjoy this bad boy.

Its definitly a lost art to get this rifle accurized, but it is a classic. Should keep me busy for a while. I love my op-rod rifles.