Re: M1A vs. DPMS .308
I went AR-10 after trying a second time to find a comfortable scope position on my M1a. Sadlak mount is pretty decent, but the whole setup is jake-leg.
M1a trigger, op rod riding the external rail slot, gas pistons that wear out, barrels with complex contour and slot alignments. Then there is the complexity of gunsmithing. If you want to romanticize the design, it is still a free country, but...
The M14 is still a great weapon, with NM sights and a bag full of magazines they are dependable shooters. I like an AR-10 T barrel in an A2 configuration better. I like being able to press 2 pins and change uppers, like the built-in A4 picatinny scope rail, the Free-float tube, the no-bed stock design, Like the gas system's simplicity. Like the multi-lug bolt and bolt carrier.
Where can you buy a drop-in M1a trigger? The AR trigger is really excellent; more capable of precise tune. So many sellers of remarkable quality triggers. How much does a stripped M1a receiver cost these days? Every lower receiver part on an AR-10 is AR-15 interchangeable aside from the take-down pins. $50 plus your trigger and take-down pins and you are set. $200 for a stripped lower and build your own.
I cannot see the short-barrel gizmoed-out M1a rifles at all. Quadrails are a bit of a joke unless you are into kicking in doors. A four pound scope on an already heavy short-barreled rifle is not helping the matter any. Figure to be doing much sniping with that M1a? Nobody shoots them in Service Rifle anymore because they are so "accurate". The only reason anyone competes with one is the heavy bullet in the wind and the 80gr .223 rem does as well.
An accurate M1a is one that holds under 1.5" at 100yds. The AR-10 will deliver .5" or sub at 100 and hold that delivery consistency. A super-precision scope on a less than precision rifle is a waste in my book.
I like the old mil-contractor parts assembled Springfields. These days though, you can build an AR-10 at home better than any M1a you can buy.
ETA: re the pix in H20man's post; nice, but...
How do you get a stock weld enabling you to consistently see through the scope? The base must be 4" above the comb on the AR type stock; add the extra height for the scope ocular to clear and another 15mm to see down the center of the scope and your scope is about 5" above your cheekweld... That makes even a tip of the chin-weld hard to do.
Might work fine for an Eotech, Reflex, or Aimpoint sight, but without a full contour cheekpiece riser, how can you use the scope?
