Machine Gun Brass Resizing Woes

[Cymons0341]

Thanks for clicking!
I happened upon a pretty large sum of 7.62x51 brass that just so happened be fired through a M240B.
As you may know, the chambers on MGs are quite loose. This causes a real issue while full length sizing. I'm trudging through sizing using a hornady FL die and Redding Imperial sizing die wax. To my knowledge, that's the best case lube on the market. Do any of you know anything that could ease my ailment?

I really appreciate its guys and gals.
Thanks!

 

[spife7980]

Well whats the issue? Cant cure the ailment if we dont know what the ailment is.

Probably need to use a small base die. And if sizing it tough then a bigger stronger press maybe. Or just by good brass to start over with and skip polishing a turd.

 

[clcustom1911]

I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. But, just full length size as normal. Cases that have bad bouges or otherwise mangled get tossed. Get a chamber check gauge and the first few cases go into the gauge to check proper headspace dimension. You'll also need to swage out or ream out the crimp in the primer pocket as well.

The 240 chamber isn't near as bad as a 249.

 

[Cymons0341]

Well whats the issue? Cant cure the ailment if we dont know what the ailment is.

Sorry I guess I'm just saying that sizing is quite difficult since the brass is so large.

I'm considering annealing before sizing to soften the necks a little. Would that make my life a little easier? Thanks!

 

[clcustom1911]

I use a home brew lanolin oil/alcohol mixture for my full length sizing. I spray it on my brass. Works well. I've never used imperial sizing wax, so I cant give a direct comparison.

 

[spife7980]

Sorry I guess I'm just saying that sizing is quite difficult since the brass is so large.

I'm considering annealing before sizing to soften the necks a little. Would that make my life a little easier? Thanks!

It could but Im assuming the base diameters are really large and its not the necks giving you issues. Id try a liberal amount of lanolin liquid lube just because I havent had issues with it but taking measurements will show you where the issue lies.

I take the
neck diameter
the shoulder to base measurement with the comparators
shoulder diameter and
base diameter directly above the web, about .2" up.

 

[Rlandry]

I bought some 308 bulk cases and some of them has obviously gone through a machine gun. After two attempts to size them ith a SB die, the diameter still would not size down to fit in a Sheridan gauge. They just went in the scrap bucket. As said above, just buy good brass.

 

[47guy]

all i can say is good luck...if it were me...and it was once...id just toss it.

 

[Rlandry]

If you are going to check them with a case gauge, be sure the gauge will actually check sized diameter and not just shoulder bump. Some, such as the Wilson, do not check diameter.

 

[AIAW]

Small base die is an absolute must.

If it was me, I wouldn’t screw with all of that unless you plan on running it out of another MG. Got to check for case-head separation on each one after sizing also.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

Maybe I'm missing something here but is downstroke difficulty related to crimped primers...?

 

[918v]

Sorry I guess I'm just saying that sizing is quite difficult since the brass is so large.

I'm considering annealing before sizing to soften the necks a little. Would that make my life a little easier? Thanks!

No.

Size it with a Redding body die first. It is bigger inside than a std FL die.

 

[918v]

Small base die is an absolute must.

If it was me, I wouldn’t screw with all of that unless you plan on running it out of another MG. Got to check for case-head separation on each one after sizing also.

No it’s not. You don’t know how big his chamber is.

 

[AIAW]

No it’s not. You don’t know how big his chamber is.

Very true, but I’d put a good bit of confidence on the fact that the destination chamber is tighter unless it’s another MG.

 

[hlee]

Don't solve problems you don't know you have. Start with the die you have. If it isn't crushing the case down enough, then go to a small base die. You could start with a body die like mentioned above, then go to the FL die.

But... How much was the brass? How much for a body die? How much for a SB die? How much is your time worth? At what point are you throwing good money after bad?

If the cases are just hard to size and you needed to vent a bit. Great. Now, go size them. Prepare for a stuck case or a few. If you already have the removal tools, a stuck case is much less aggravating.

 

[Cymons0341]

Gentlemen, thank you for your replies. The brass was free. My thought process with using this brass was that I could practice with this stuff as I'm fairly new to reloading, especially for precision. I do plan on purchasing much nicer brass from the factory to really get into the precision of it. Unfortunately I dont have a small base or body die right now, but they may be on my bench in the future.
I realize this process may seem like a waste of time to a lot of you. If so, please tell me. I'm a new guy to this world and I value your insight.

Prepare for a stuck case or a few. If you already have the removal tools, a stuck case is much less aggravating.

You're absolutely correct. That's actually the reason I posted here. I got a stuck case, but I've since picked up a tap and die to ge them out. Honestly, I just wanted to make sure that I wasnt being stupid by doing what I'm doing.
Thanks again guys

 

[clcustom1911]

Use more lubrication and maybe size each case like 50% with each stroke of the press. So first time in the die, case comes halfway in, withdraw, then go again with the whole case into the die.

Just like PM'ing certain parts of your mortar tubes, and other weapon systems, she needs lube for you both to be happy.

 

[47guy]

Your not stupid but just throw that brass away it’s way more work than it’s worth and the chances are it’s not going to work anyway.

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[Doom]

It takes a lot of lube and a small base die just to adequately resize, then you will need to trim 20 thousandth and ream or swage the primer pockets. In a few cases you will probably break a depriming pin.

That was my experience with it. It probably took 30 to 40 hours to prepare 500 pieces, plus many hand cramps.

Was it worth it? Yes, just to appreciate the amount of effort required. But I would not do it again.

 

[spife7980]

New primed lake city brass for 32 cents per, minus 4 cents for the primer it’s 28 cents per.
And you’ll never have to dick around with it like you are now.

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[nn8734]

@Cymons0341 If you are going to work with the above mentioned MG brass, I would do all my sizing and measuring one day, then let all the brass sit over night before proceeding to next steps (trimming, priming, charging, etc) as brass sometimes likes to “spring back” a bit. You may find a piece brass sized and checks ok in your headspace gauge, case length gauge, etc immediately after sizing but fails when those same measurements are taken on that same piece the next day and it has to be reran through the die again.

 

[918v]

Very true, but I’d put a good bit of confidence on the fact that the destination chamber is tighter unless it’s another MG.

His chamber is tighter, true. But he can measure his fired brass and compare to the mg brass and know exactly how much he needs to size it. This isn’t hard.