- Thread starter BurtG
- Start date
Prolly get that sucker 3D scanned and made injection molded. I think MKM can do it? If not I think Sihr would be a good one to ask.
Depending on how many axis the machine has, just run time typically is $150-300 an hour. Then there is set up time and programing.
Mkm would be a cheaper and quite possibly a quicker option.
Mkm would be a cheaper and quite possibly a quicker option.
Couldnt resist.
As for cnc.. need a cad file to quote it. Honestly sheet fold / laser cut with joining tabs wpuld be cheaper. Billet machine would be mucho-grande expensive for a 1 to 5 off.
Questions you will be asked:
Which alloy of brass, steel or aluminum? Nobody is going to give an estimate until this is known. Some forms of brass are very hard to get right now.
Do you require material certs or inspection reports? Or is it just machine and go?
Do you want them coated or painted?
What are the tolerances for the features?
Do you have drawings or just the CAD files?
What surface finish do you require? If you don't specify you will most likely get 125.
Lead time?
What are the specs on those inserts? Are you going to put those in or do you want them put in for you? Do you have dimensions on those or access to the data regarding them?
Every hole has been radiused or countersunk. The CAD file can be interrogated to determine the dimensions, but are those countersinks specific to a certain screw or are they general countersinks? It matters if you are looking for a flush fit and the CAD file is a general countersink.
The threaded holes - what are they specifically? This is where the drawing becomes important if it is not called out somewhere on the CAD file.
And the ringer question a shop will ask: what is this for? Nobody wants to build something that is for shady purposes/ITAR controlled, etc. When someone comes in and askes for a few of a part this question usually gets asked in passing during the discussion but it is an important go/no-go question to keep them out of liability or harms way from a legal perspective.
I can do that on the 5-axis no problem. But as IceEng said, low quantities won't be cheap anywhere due to programming, setup, tooling, etc.
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Yup, but the cost may not be that much cheaper. It will depend on what kind of material the printer can handle, and not every metal is available to be 3D printed.
The metal you choose needs to be able to handle the forces you will be applying to these parts. Example: 2025, 6061 and 7075 are all aluminum alloys but have very different physical properties and are used in different applications. Same with brass and steel.
Well Plastic is holding up. Going to metal is just to add weight and some strength
Lemme help you out .....
The longer it takes is less time you have ta break other shit....
Yer welcome.....
The longer it takes is less time you have ta break other shit....
Yer welcome.....
If you want weight, print it hollow, and fill with liquid plaster or something..
Ita not a hugely complex part, but 5 parts would be stupid expensive, a few hundred each. If you wanted 100, then peice would be potentially under $100aud (like $60usd ?).
Economy of scale my friend.
Ita not a hugely complex part, but 5 parts would be stupid expensive, a few hundred each. If you wanted 100, then peice would be potentially under $100aud (like $60usd ?).
Economy of scale my friend.
That’s a good point on filling it with something heavier.
Burt, I have a 3D print farm at the shop as well for some R&D and our own production work. Something IceEng just reminded me of: depending on the capabilities of your printer you may be able to use a different material and get better rigidity, strength and wear on your part. We have been using NylonG and others that perform better than some filaments that are readily available. Also take a look at the infill and your wall thickness. Alternatively, in the areas that take stress you might be able to reinforce it with carbon fiber or aluminum sheet - just program in a slot in that area for the plate to fit/snap/screw into. We have done this on some parts that have to be able to take wear and abuse. Maybe that and his suggestion of filling it with heavier material will get you where you want to be without going to a machine shop.
Well, I am certainly not a toolmaker. Because I still have all my fingers.oh, so you must be a real machinist
Sirhr
Ive still got all mine.. mostly.. it was however swen back on.
having a print makes it less hard.
Having a 3d model makes it even easier.
If surface finish doesn’t matter and tolerances are wide open that makes it even way more easier.
One part will be few hundred or more.
I can make it easily enough, but will cost a lot more if someone has to reverse engineer that part.
Having a 3d model makes it even easier.
If surface finish doesn’t matter and tolerances are wide open that makes it even way more easier.
One part will be few hundred or more.
I can make it easily enough, but will cost a lot more if someone has to reverse engineer that part.
Faaark. Gimmie a break ! Im working on it. Heads up, we have one job to finish, they are next up ! (Job will last a week).Hey Nick, you don’t have time to waste here, get onto those FABA kits for my next rifle!!!
tripod-fingers beat me. Yes my finger is crooked. Yes its my trigger finger.
Back on topic. Find someone to print in high strength stuff, like carbon filament, or nylon impregnated, print hollow, fill with goo.
When CNC maching, you are paying from the time they start working on it, not when they start machining. Tooling setup, jigs, vices, etc.. and clean time. Thats part of the job, machines dont (really) clean themselves.
Ive had jobs take 4 hours to setup.... for a 5 part run. Part was like 20mins. Dude wanted to pay. Other times ive done 1hr setups and run 200 parts, and had 8 parts at a time in that setup, hugely economical.
I still say laser cut sheet metal tig welded together will be the cheapest option for a 1 off.
Are those quasi-Baker wings for a AI AX Keyslot forend?
I'll have to remember that, thank you.
Change the design a bit and it will be much cheaper to make.
Add a bolted in thumb grab instead of that molded shape and a dude on a Bridgeport can get it done pretty quick.
Add a bolted in thumb grab instead of that molded shape and a dude on a Bridgeport can get it done pretty quick.
Funny, I am and still do
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