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MAKE Lapua 308 Winchester to Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor

GUNZ n AMMO

Shall not be infringed!!!
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 12, 2010
409
1
48
Henderson, NV
I've seen people talked about it and did it but I haven't seen a step by step process of how they did it... My coworker gave me some 1x fired Lapua brass a while back and I just hate seeing it on the shelf collecting dust, so here's what I did to them...

things you need:

Press (I used Lee Classic Cast)
Lapua brass (I used 1x fired)
1 to 5 308 cases for practice (I used federal as they are soft and I have plenty to spare)
6.5 Creedmoor FL die (I used RCBS)
Lee case holder #2 x2 (one sacrificial)
Case lube (I used 0w20 synthetic motor oil)
Cream of Wheat
Toilette paper (I used Kirkland double ply :D )
Gun powder funnel
Gun powder (I used Titegroup)
Decapping rod
Large rifle primer
RCBS hand neck turner
RCBS #25 collet
Digital caliper
flash hole uniformer
case trimmer (I used forster case trimmer)
forster case trimmer collet #25
forster case trimmer collet #24
Chamfer and Deburring tool
Lee 308 case holder
Drill
1000 grit sand paper
Torch
6.5 Creedmoor rifle

Step 1
Remove the decapping pin from the FULL LENGTH RESIZING DIE and set it on the press as you would when you FL size a case.

Step 2
you will have to sand ONE of the Lee case holder #2 .006" off. Once you done this you will no longer use the case holder for any other purpose besides from bumping the case shoulder back. I measured the case holder at .500" before sanding and it measures .494" after. You may have to sand less or more depending on your rifle chamber tolerance...



Step 3
Lube the 308 cases and wipe off excess lube. I suggest using the cheap cases first through the whole process for practice. Too much lube will cause some bumps on the case shoulder and it looks ugly :D It depends on how much bump you created, you may be able to straighten it out after firing a full charge ammo if the bump is on the shoulder only and not the case neck.


Step 4
use #24 collet to trim the case to 1.914" then chamfer and deburr. Chamber each and every case to your rifle to make sure it chambers with a little to no effort to manipulate the bolt.

CLICK PICTURE TO PLAY VIDEO




(I ANNEALED THE BRASS AFTER STEP #4 your choice)

Step 5
I used Winchester LRP. Cut the TP into 8 pieces, charge the case with 10 grains of Titegroup, then place the TP in the case and do your best to flatten the TP evenly to keep the powder from moving and mixing with the COW.






Push it with a rod or something (I used the Lee decapping pin)

 
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it should look like this



dump some COW in it up to the case neck



place another TP on top to keep the COW in the case to prevent it from spilling



Step 6
Fire em up!!!

CLICK PIX TO PLAY VIDEO (low recoil, little pop but ears & eyes must be worn)


Step 7
Use collet #25 on the forster case trimmer and trim to 1.911" (I prefer trimming to this length) Then chamfer and deburr.

Step 8
Use collet #25 on RCBS hand neck turner. Use the case holder and drill to make the process run faster and smoother. The Hornady case mouth thickness I measured at .15" and the Lapua to .18" Do not over do this process and remove .001" at a time or you will not have enough tension on the neck and the bullet would sit loosely. If you have a neck sizer with bushing would be perfect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCGkjx7RzEA

Step 9
FULL LENGTH SIZE the case and chamber the empty case in your rifle to make sure it chambers correctly. Load your favorite 6.5CM load combo. I used the low node of 40.5 grains of H4350 (range training 1400y and closer) and 140 grain AMAX.



Step 10
Shoot em!!! :scsniper3:

here's the case after 17th firing (18x fired if counting when it was a 308 ammo), one tough SOB won't even break after so many firings where the Hornady case fails no more than 15 firings and I'm pushing my luck of letting the brass completely separate from the case body.

I'm a half MOA guy on a good day so I'm happy with these results. I've noticed after the 3rd firing that the case seems to settle/formed perfectly, based on the concentricity readings... Although it is not Benchrest quality/accuracy, there's definitely some room for improvement, my marksmanship to be included :D

 
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I only carried 20 powder charges since my Hornady brass life ends between 12th to 15th firing whenever I see the base case head separation signs. I screwed up on the first 3 firings after resizing and damaging the case and I have to restart...





Sorry I forgot the chrono :( I'll shoot the case some more by next week or two and I hope I'll remember to bring the chronograph...

EXPENSES:
Lapua brass - $70-$80 per 100 cases BNIB, $40-$50 1x fired & $30-$40 for the 1x fired LC brass(I got mine for free)
Large Rifle Primers - .04 per = $4.00
Cream of Wheat - $5 (it's good for atleast 1,000 cases) so .50 cents/100
Pistol Powder - .03 per case = $3.00

So I'm looking at $90 per 100 NEW cases or cheaper if you can find some cheap 1x fired Lapua brass.

Here are the additional data:

X-Fired-COAL before trimming back to 1.911"-Ammo Run Out
01x-(Shot as 308 Ammo)
02x-1.912"-.0030" (24 May 14)
03x-1.914"-.0015"
04x-1.912"-.0012"
05x-1.911"-.0030"
06x-1.911"-.0040"
07x-1.912"-.0045"
08x-1.912"-.0030"
09x-1.911"-.0030"
10x-1.911"-.0005"
11x-1.911"-.0005"
12x-1.912"-.0015"
13x-1.911"-.0030"
14x-1.911"-.0020"
15x-1.911"-.0015"
16x-1.911"-.0025"
17x-1.911"-.0010"
18x-1.912"-.0010"(3 Jun 14 - Started at 0600 very calm day with very light breeze, perfect work up load weather condition)
19x-1.911"-.0015"
20x-1.911"-.0025"
21x-1.913"-.0010"
22x-1.911"-.0020"
23x-1.912"-.0010"(I noticed the primer pockets seems a bit loose)
24x-1.911"-.0010"
25x-1.911"-.0010"
26x-1.911"-.0010"
27x-1.912"-.0010"
28x-1.911"-.0010"
29x-1.912"-.0030"
30x-1.911"-.0020"
31x-1.912"-.0010"
32x-1.911"-.0020"
33x-1.911"-.0020"
34x-1.911"-.0010"
35x-1.913"-.0020"
36x-1.912"-.0025"
37x-1.911"-.0010"
38x-1.911"-.0010"
39x-1.911"-.0010"
40x-1.911"-.0010"
41x- (somewhere from 18x fired to 41x fired, I somehow forgot to log the data)

Chronograph Data
Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor cases, 40.5 grains H4350, GM210M primers, 140 AMAX, 2.820" COAL, TIMES FIRED= 40x FIRED PLUS ???

Hi-2888
Lo-2812
Av-2829
Es-43
Sd-10

Vs.

Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor cases, 40.5 grains H4350, GM210M primers, 140 AMAX, 2.820" COAL, TIMES FIRED= 12x-15x

Hi-2766
Lo-2732
Av-2748
Es-34
Sd-12





I'm looking for that ONE MISSING SHOT and I believe it's in the same hole as the shot that touches the white circle as it seems to be elongated and the bullet hole seems to be clear of paper compare to the other bullet holes, what do you guys think?






 
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Interesting. I've been considering doing this. Why did you shave down the shell holder? Couldnt you adjust the die to compensate? Also, would it be easier to run the case through an intermediate caliber die like 7mm/08 and then through the 6.5 die?
 
I tried adjusting the die and its maxed out that it wont bump the shoulder anymore. Lapua cases are sturdy and thicker than the hornady brass so some cases chambers really tight and some won't even chamber at all. Sanding to remove a little off the case holder was my solution and it worked!!!. I don't have the 7mm-08 die or know how to use it and most of these ideas I read through an article and seen on youtube videos and some didn't mention the specifics or didn't like the process. There were a lot of questions about the accuracy of the fire formed cases aswell and I have posted the first 17 shots on paper which I believe the same if not better than the hornady cases and I will shoot the case some more by next week....
 
Seems like an awful lot of work to get the same results I get with Hornady brass for the 6.5 Creed. ;)
I do appreciate your attention to detail - in that respect, I commend you.
 
Okay that makes a lot of sense. I think I'm going to try to convert some brass tonight. Been toying with the idea for awhile.
 
Nice thanks! i will try this tonight

Little question:
Doe it make a difference to seperate the powder and wheat with paper?
 
Yeah it took some TLC making them, but I have some free Lapua brass asking for it :D plus its already at 18x fired and the brass still kept going lol


I do not know or have the tools of measuring and knowing how much difference it makes but I've seen youtube videos that did it without using TP and used a bar of soap as a case mouth plug and did well.
 
I'm trying in my head to figure out where you sanded down the case holder, just the top of the shell holder by .006"?

Yes sir, the part where the bottom of the die meets the case holder... I posted a picture...
 
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Looks great. Hornady brass does give up a lot over Lapua@!
 
Got it thanks, my browser is slow and didn't download the pic!

No you were right, the picture was not there before. I wrote this up in the middle of the night trying to rush finishing and I'm using Pigeon English/texting shortcuts lol So you all have to pardon my grammar
 
Looks good. I've never fire formed but I've read you should remove any muzzle device before doing so. Might be worth mentioning for the guys reading this and giving it a try.
 
additional update... the case is now at 41x fired and still going!!! wooot!!! chronograph data added up top...
 
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