Gunsmithing Mauser 98 build

Jashobeam

Private
Minuteman
Dec 26, 2010
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0
33
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I have recently bought a Gewehr 98 at a local pawn shop for $120 as a project. I have polished the action and I am looking to replace the stock, barrel, and trigger. any suggestions?
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

A project like that will end up costig more than a new budget rifle.
The Timney sportsman trigger works ok on a 98 and is quite cheap.
A new firing pin spring is a good idea something like a Wolfe .
A pre chambered Wilson barrel is cheap and will only need minor headspacing adjustment usually just a few though off the shoulder and face to get minimum headspace. Some you can use as is.
Stock is dependant on what use you put the rifle too.
It's a bit hard for Aussies to advise an American as you have products we can't even buy or have never seen .
If you are buliding a stalking rifle I would go for a fiberglass sporter stock . If bulding a varmint rifle then I would go for a laminated wood stock . Pillar bed both.
The ex military Mauser actions are a bit of a pain to work with because very few surfaces are square or flat to anything else on the action.
I have built a few up in my time but would not bother to do one from scratch now. I am working on a new stock for a M98 that I put together many years ago but that's about as far as I would go with a M98 now.
Once you get them shooting they are great but you will spend about $1600 doing that.


 
Re: Mauser 98 build

I plan on using this rifle as a dangerous game rifle. The old Mauser rifles use a controlled feed extractor, so they make exceptional rifles to use for this purpose.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

Thank you Country, I'll definitely look into those. I know that I can get a new rifle for less money but these old rifles are stuck with me. I grew up shooting my dads old m98 but I cant modify his so I just kept my eyes open for a cheap gun with a good action.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jashobeam</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I plan on using this rifle as a dangerous game rifle. The old Mauser rifles use a controlled feed extractor, so they make exceptional rifles to use for this purpose.</div></div>


IF you would do your due dilegence...you would find that in fact them safari grade dangerous game guns in the big calibers are built on later made mauser actions from makers such as FN and other makers i can't think of at the moment....they are sought after because of the hardness of the steel used in the actions.....they make a big double digit rockwell hardness and the subsiquent actions a mated up with custon rings and stupid expensive wood to make a true legacy gun..........NOT the nazi throw down or the soviet capture shit that floats to the top every so often,,,,,the bring backs are no better
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

Your completely right, but I am not making this rifle into a big bore rifle, .308 will suffice. I should have clarified my previous statement. The "dangerous game" I was referring to are hogs, bears, mountain lions, etc. I have no plans for a "safari grade" rifle hah I would but I don't have that kind of money. I am a big fan of the controlled feed on the Mausers and they suit the purpose that I will be using them for. I would just like some advice on the best way to go about building this rifle.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

OK well in that case then I would convert it too 30-06 not 308 as it will feed better and have a bit more power with heavier bullets.
However even 30-06 is marginal for big bears . I am still thinking that a 338 WM would be a better choice for what you are saying.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

i had a mauser action in .308 once...took my 1st pig with it....the lock time on them guns is really bad compared to what is available today....but if you must. there is a imperial shit-ton of aftermarket suff for them mausers....its a game i don't play ....sorry someone will chime in here to offer some directon......still, it lipstick on a pig at the end of the day.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Country</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK well in that case then I would convert it too 30-06 not 308 as it will feed better and have a bit more power with heavier bullets.
</div></div>


Noted...
what makes the 30-06 feed better?
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

your in the same boat as me, i'm having one built into a 260. and yep its goin to be expensive but for me i'm having it done cuz the rifle holds meaning. i'm doin a 260rem though. benchmark barrels have been awesome to work with and know a bit about the k98's
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jashobeam</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Country</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK well in that case then I would convert it too 30-06 not 308 as it will feed better and have a bit more power with heavier bullets.
</div></div>


Noted...
what makes the 30-06 feed better?</div></div>

I was told it was to do with the tapered cartridge.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jashobeam</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Country</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK well in that case then I would convert it too 30-06 not 308 as it will feed better and have a bit more power with heavier bullets.
</div></div>


Noted...
what makes the 30-06 feed better? </div></div>

The 30-06 is longer for it's diameter and has a smaller diameter shoulder than the 308 so it feeds better in most situations.
One of the reasons why the 30-06 was and still is a very popular game cartridge world wide .
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigJoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">does anyone know of a aftermarket bottom metal for the 98's? </div></div>

Surf Brownells.

Cheers,

Doc
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Country</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jashobeam</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Country</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK well in that case then I would convert it too 30-06 not 308 as it will feed better and have a bit more power with heavier bullets.
</div></div>


Noted...
what makes the 30-06 feed better? </div></div>

The 30-06 is longer for it's diameter and has a smaller diameter shoulder than the 308 so it feeds better in most situations.
One of the reasons why the 30-06 was and still is a very popular game cartridge world wide . </div></div>

Not to mention you can drive 210's and 208's at 2800fps and still have barrel life. You can also kill just about anything in North America with the same and find ammo just about anywhere you go.

Cheers,

Doc
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: longshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Leave it 8mm and run the 200gr partition. </div></div>
That could be an option in the US but it's no that great where I come from as 8 mm is hard to buy.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

Mausers are fun to play with and don't cost a whole lot if you remember what they are and don't go over board...might take some hate mail for that but oh well.

I built this on out of old parts and a collection of internet bargains. Its a 243 that the kids yous for deer hunting and I would not hesitate to build a 308 if I were you.

P1000656.jpg


$70 Adams and Bennet barrel pre-threaded and short chambered
Low cost laminated stock for about the same money
Pillar bedded it myself and got a low dollar Burris scope
Think I have about $400 in everything not including my work.

GAP finished up the barrel for me and the gun will shoot 1" groups at 300 yds with 45gr of H4350 and 85gr TSX.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigJoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">that trench mag is awesome, lol. </div></div>

I really considered purchasing one when I first saw it lol. I envisioned it along with a bipod on the forearm to form a gun "tripod" but then I came to my senses.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mdesign</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mausers are fun to play with and don't cost a whole lot if you remember what they are and don't go over board...might take some hate mail for that but oh well.

I built this on out of old parts and a collection of internet bargains. Its a 243 that the kids yous for deer hunting and I would not hesitate to build a 308 if I were you.

P1000656.jpg


$70 Adams and Bennet barrel pre-threaded and short chambered
Low cost laminated stock for about the same money
Pillar bedded it myself and got a low dollar Burris scope
Think I have about $400 in everything not including my work.

GAP finished up the barrel for me and the gun will shoot 1" groups at 300 yds with 45gr of H4350 and 85gr TSX. </div></div>
There is no denying that living in the US puts you in a good position to build up a Mauser or anyother gun cheaper than any other place in the world . We can only dream of such bargain stuff. Nice job on the gun it looks real good.
This is my latest 98 project , it is not finnished yet .
Mauser%20Chassis%20rifle.jpg
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Country</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mdesign</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mausers are fun to play with and don't cost a whole lot if you remember what they are and don't go over board...might take some hate mail for that but oh well.

I built this on out of old parts and a collection of internet bargains. Its a 243 that the kids yous for deer hunting and I would not hesitate to build a 308 if I were you.

P1000656.jpg


$70 Adams and Bennet barrel pre-threaded and short chambered
Low cost laminated stock for about the same money
Pillar bedded it myself and got a low dollar Burris scope
Think I have about $400 in everything not including my work.

GAP finished up the barrel for me and the gun will shoot 1" groups at 300 yds with 45gr of H4350 and 85gr TSX. </div></div>
There is no denying that living in the US puts you in a good position to build up a Mauser or anyother gun cheaper than any other place in the world . We can only dream of such bargain stuff. Nice job on the gun it looks real good.
This is my latest 98 project , it is not finnished yet .
Mauser%20Chassis%20rifle.jpg
</div></div>

Jesus thats a nice rifle. Congrats on the build. What type of stock is that?
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

Looks like quite a project you got going there...much more in depth then mine was. You'll have to let us know how it shoots when you are done.

One trick I found to reduce the impact of the firing pin fall was to shorten the cocking piece so that it only has about .200 travel from the cocked position. You really notice the difference when dry firing during practice.

CockingPieceModification.jpg
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mdesign</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looks like quite a project you got going there...much more in depth then mine was. You'll have to let us know how it shoots when you are done.

One trick I found to reduce the impact of the firing pin fall was to shorten the cocking piece so that it only has about .200 travel from the cocked position. You really notice the difference when dry firing during practice.

CockingPieceModification.jpg
</div></div>
Thats an interesting modification . Thanks for that info. I did try a speed lock system in another 98 action but it was unsuccessful.
The accuracy actually got worse not better. I did not figure out what the problem was and went back to the normal system. However I am always looking for new ideas to try.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

start with the stock, then trigger, then barrel, unless you have a dud, it is probably a good shooter already. Sporterized Mausers used to be common as dirt, gotta .243 VZ24 myself.

One older option was to re-chamber the original barrel to 8mm-06
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

The barrel is not very good on my rifle I recrowned it and it shoots a lot better now, its acceptable as a hunting rifle right now I'd just like to make it as good of a shooter as I can. I was leaning towards the .308 round because surplus rounds are available to me very cheaply. I considered just getting a new 8mm barrel to replace this one but I'm not terribly fond of the ballistics on the round, and Ive got a feeling the surplus rounds are going to dry up soon. 30-06 is my second favorite round because it does have a little more energy than a .308 but I am not a reloader and non surplus ammo is getting more and more expensive. plus the .308 being a nato round is likely to stick around for a very long time. (I know .308 is technically not a 7.62x51 nato lol) Ill just have to study the conversion needed to reliably feed the .308 vs the 30-06.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

It's a nice Mauser custom job thats for sure and it looks very handy to use but I don't like the forend shape at all. It is only good for a bipod and not much else.
Also the slim down forend shape would lack rigidity.
I would like it better with a full profile straight forend with the bottom surface parallel with the bore. JMHO.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

MasuerVZ247mmBrazilTIGweldedbolthadle.jpg

MasuerBoltWeldDSCF0013.jpg


I have been sporterizing Mausers for 45 years, but the last 8 years have been intense.

My brother TIG welded these two bolt handles for me. I have opened both to magnum bolt face.
I use MY TIG welder on Mausers when I grind too much off the rear hump of the trigger.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

A Tig is very handy indeed. I need a tactical bolt knob on my rig but I have not got a jig to hold the bolt for threading the bolt handle.
Eventually I will get around to making one.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

Here is some updated photos of my Mauser 98 project . It shows the different platforms the gun can shoot from at the moment , planning one or two more options. Also improved cheek rest.
2010-362-23-22-50-1-SDC12028.jpg

2010-362-23-22-50-2-SDC12029.jpg

2010-362-23-22-51-3-SDC12030.jpg
2010-362-23-22-51-4-SDC12032.jpg
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Country</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is some updated photos of my Mauser 98 project . It shows the different platforms the gun can shoot from at the moment , planning one or two more options. Also improved cheek rest.
2010-362-23-22-50-1-SDC12028.jpg

2010-362-23-22-50-2-SDC12029.jpg

2010-362-23-22-51-3-SDC12030.jpg
2010-362-23-22-51-4-SDC12032.jpg
</div></div>

i guess what you aussies lack in avaibliity or parts you make up for in inivation, and they say nessessaty is the mother of inivation

serious congrats
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

It has two barrels one in 243W and the other in 30-06 AI at the moment.
It's mainly for hunting at extended range during the day with a normal optical scope and short range at night with the NV scope.
The Mauser 98 as standard is not reallly long enough for a 338 LM or something like that and it's too expensive to practice with anyway.
30-06 AI fills the bill very nicely down here , it feeds slick and is cheap to run and has almost the ballistics of a 300 WM.
I may well try a tight neck match chamber 300WSM lateron just to see what it can do.
Also over here they are starting to ban big calibers like 338 LM and 50 BMG from certain ranges why I am not sure . That's the skinny.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Country</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is some updated photos of my Mauser 98 project . It shows the different platforms the gun can shoot from at the moment , planning one or two more options. Also improved cheek rest.
2010-362-23-22-50-1-SDC12028.jpg

2010-362-23-22-50-2-SDC12029.jpg

2010-362-23-22-51-3-SDC12030.jpg
2010-362-23-22-51-4-SDC12032.jpg
</div></div>

i guess what you aussies lack in avaibliity or parts you make up for in inivation, and they say nessessaty is the mother of inivation

serious congrats </div></div>
Thanks . You are 100% correct mate . However we do get a lot of our ideas from Americans in the first place . I was helped by two nice guys on this forum . Thanks Larry W and Jonathan W.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

Jashobeam----if you are looking for a good smith that is willing to do the work on it take a look at RWSGunsmith's website....he does some nice stuff for a really resonable price with a fast turn around from what I told. And he works on Mauser's!

Here is my Custom Mauser:
IMG_3494.jpg

IMG_3499.jpg

IMG_3495.jpg

IMG_3493.jpg
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

MauserSafetyWoodruffCutter.jpg


Every Mauser you sporterize, you can do more things and get better.

Err, you are supposed to get better.

Two things about sporterizing Mausers are still not easy for me; forge or weld the bolt handle, and convert to M70 type safety.
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jashobeam</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have recently bought a Gewehr 98 at a local pawn shop for $120 as a project. I have polished the action and I am looking to replace the stock, barrel, and trigger. any suggestions? </div></div>
So when do we get to see some photos of your Mauser 98 ?
 
Re: Mauser 98 build

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jarhead_h</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here are some good sources from the looks of things:

Side-Swing Safety
http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4414

Installing a (PME)Side-Swing Safety
http://www.gswagner.com/swede/pmssafety/pmssafety.html

PME's homepage
http://www.wisnersinc.com/index.html


re:mdesign

Did you weld the cocking piece and then grind it down? That looks like something that we could all use more details about. </div></div>
Thanks very much for that info jarhead_h . I got a good idea how it works now .