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Mcmillan edge cracked. How bad is it?

jbuck88

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Oct 25, 2010
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Port Angeles, WA
Well I was cleaning my 300wsm and noticed I have developed a crack from my front piller to to the magazine well. I emailed McMillan but haven't heard back yet.

Where would it fall in? From safe to shoot. Or ok to hunt with but keep an eye on it. Or unsafe and don't shoot until fixed?

It's my main elk rifle and elk season is November. But it's also my backup deer rifle, although I'd have others that could fill the deer rifle role. This is pretty much my only elk rifle.

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If it was a wood stock I’d say drill, pin and glue but dunno about composite stocks.
 
I would think there would be some method removing some material across the whole square surface and using epoxy and some other piece to laminate the two together and repair it, or something similar. I'm sure this isn't the first time McMillan has seen it. Reach out to them as mentioned and I'm sure they can fix it or tell you how.
 
I already reached out to McMillan. However I was hoping to find someone that had dealt with this and has some experience.

I have plenty of epoxy and all kinds of filler from boat building. I just don't want to start down that path and void a potential warranty claim.
 
Contact Chad at LRI. I think this would be a simple fix for him.
 
I'm sure it will. But I would definitely feel more comfortable with my 300wsm.

I am glad they are standing behind their product, but feel letdown still.
 
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I think an edge filled stock needs a good full length action bedding job. I don't think they will have a long and happy life with something like a 300WSM if they aren't.
 
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I’ve fixed cracks like that by milling a horizontal channel and embedding 1/4” carbon fiber rod with Devon
 
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I’ve fixed cracks like that by milling a horizontal channel and embedding 1/4” carbon fiber rod with Devon

If I knew that it was going to be replaced instead of repaired I probably would have just tried to fix it and sent if off after hunting season. I have plenty of epoxy and milled fibers from boat building.
 
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Is that a standard McMillan camo pattern or did you pick those colors?

The colors and pattern is no longer listed, however if you speak too Lynn and request Dark Camo this is what you should get.

Dark Brown, Dark Green and Black.
 
The colors and pattern is no longer listed, however if you speak too Lynn and request Dark Camo this is what you should get.

Dark Brown, Dark Green and Black.
Thanks, I like the color but couldn't Identify it. It looked like the Woodland camo with the light green left off. Per your description, that may be what it is.
 
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If I knew that it was going to be replaced instead of repaired I probably would have just tried to fix it and sent if off after hunting season. I have plenty of epoxy and milled fibers from boat building.
Who bedded the rifle? Kinda looks
like the front receiver screw was contacting the pillar bore and acting like a second recoil lug.
 
I had a friend help me do it. I get what your saying about the front screw touching the rear of the pillar. I don't understand how you would go about changing the relationship as it is a fixed point between where the rear of the recoil lug and the front of the magazine. Both of which are in contact with the stock to locate the screw.

So to move the screw forward I would need to relieve the front of the magwell and build up behind the recoil lug. Is that what your saying to do. I'm just trying to understand what your saying.
 
I had a friend help me do it. I get what your saying about the front screw touching the rear of the pillar. I don't understand how you would go about changing the relationship as it is a fixed point between where the rear of the recoil lug and the front of the magazine. Both of which are in contact with the stock to locate the screw.

So to move the screw forward I would need to relieve the front of the magwell and build up behind the recoil lug. Is that what your saying to do. I'm just trying to understand what your saying.

You don't move the screw forward. You drill out/carve out, whatever you gotta do, to get the pillar out. Then you bed the pillar in a position which will allow the action screw to go through it without making contact.

This is only if you can determine that the pillar and action screw were indeed touching. If not, your pillar is fine where it is.
 
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The pillars are factory installed in the edge stocks. So it wouldn't be too hard to take a chainsaw file to relieve the rear of the pillar if the replacement is indeed touching.
 
Thanks, I like the color but couldn't Identify it. It looked like the Woodland camo with the light green left off. Per your description, that may be what it is.

That was what Lynn told me it was.
 
I had a friend help me do it. I get what your saying about the front screw touching the rear of the pillar. I don't understand how you would go about changing the relationship as it is a fixed point between where the rear of the recoil lug and the front of the magazine. Both of which are in contact with the stock to locate the screw.

So to move the screw forward I would need to relieve the front of the magwell and build up behind the recoil lug. Is that what your saying to do. I'm just trying to understand what your saying.
There’s almost always wiggle room. I use bedding studs (long headless receiver screw)for bedding jobs, and wrap the studs with tape up near the top of the pillar bores. It centers the screw in the hole, and creates a dam to keep bedding material from
squishing into the bore and filling the gap (creating screw/bore contact). You may have done all this of course. If not, look down the pillar bore and check for contact.