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MDT chassi help

Rutter

Rutter

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 19, 2018
282
96
I sent a gun off for a build. I sent the best parts I could find. To the best gun smith I could find. This rifle was and is getting the best attention possible. Build is finished and on its way back, we are beyond our selves waiting for it to get here as anyone would be. There’s one small hiccup. The action was put into the Chassis and it is having issues. The chassis is possibly flexing. Causing an issue with the consistency. It is a rem 700 chassis MDT ACC, action is an Origin. When the front screw is snug. Then you tighten the rear screw it is raising the barrel quite a ways up in the front from the chassis. When it is not torqued down it is grouping AMAZING. When it is torqued down with the back screw in the action. It is stressing causing double grouping.
I’m asking if others have had this issue or maybe something just didn’t come out to specs on the chassis when it was cut. The sad thing is if I understand this right the point of buying a “Chassis” is it’s basically a plug and play deal. Shoot the Rem700 clone in one caliber pull it and put in the next Rem700 clone with such and such caliber. Right?
Cutting on it isn’t something I want to do nor feel that I should have to with what these things cost. Of course it could be bedded but doesn’t that bypass the point of buying such a chassis. I’m pretty dang certain it is the stock from what I’m being told. I’m going to shoot it the way it is set up. Then I’m going to throw it into another chassis that is old but solid and true. Any help would be appreciated. I’m hoping it’s something simple and not something other.
Thanks in advance everyone.
 
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Rutter said:
I sent a gun off for a build. I sent the best parts I could find. To the best gun smith I could find. This rifle was and is getting the best attention possible. Build is finished and on its way back, we are beyond our selves waiting for it to get here as anyone would be. There’s one small hiccup. The action was put into the Chassis and it is having issues. The chassis is possibly flexing. Causing an issue with the consistency. It is a rem 700 chassis MDT ACC, action is an Origin. When the front screw is snug. Then you tighten the rear screw it is raising the barrel quite a ways up in the front from the chassis. When it is not torqued down it is grouping AMAZING. When it is torqued down with the back screw in the action. It is stressing causing double grouping.
I’m asking if others have had this issue or maybe something just didn’t come out to specs on the chassis when it was cut. The sad thing is if I understand this right the point of buying a “Chassis” is it’s basically a plug and play deal. Shoot the Rem700 clone in one caliber pull it and put in the next Rem700 clone with such and such caliber. Right?
Cutting on it isn’t something I want to do nor feel that I should have to with what these things cost. Of course it could be bedded but doesn’t that bypass the point of buying such a chassis. I’m pretty dang certain it is the stock from what I’m being told. I’m going to shoot it the way it is set up. Then I’m going to throw it into another chassis that is old but solid and true. Any help would be appreciated. I’m hoping it’s something simple and not something other.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Click to expand...
What did MDT say about it ?
 
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I haven’t had a chance to talk to them about it yet. I wasn’t going to say anything till I did some testing. Then my thoughts got the best of me. So I had to ask, thought I’d ask here first hoping someone would have run into this. I’m going to call them in the A.M.
I know accidents happen and not everything is catchable apon inspection. I don’t want to run anyone’s product down or anything like that. Just looking for advice
 
Blair993 said:
What did the best gunsmith say about it when he tested it?
Click to expand...
Exactly what I’m telling you on how it is creating a bind on the chassis, in turn is putting pressure on everything else. He explained it to me like a guitar string. Of a string is tight and you touch it it makes a vibration that makes a tune. When a gun is bonded or tight like a string and you shoot it it makes a vibration that will make the gun shoot differently, than when it is not. That’s basically how it was explained to me. Or like when you have a bonded price of metal and you strike it with a hammer that vibration goes down the metal end to end. Now if you unbind it and strike it with the hammer that long vibration running down the metal is not there or is dead. I hope
That makes sense.
 
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It will be here in a day or two, going to build a load or two for it to see if that brings it together. If it doesn’t than we will move on in the direction of bedding it. That’s just something I think shouldn’t need to be done with a high end chassis like this. After the loads are worked up and it is still acting the same and I swap out stocks, if that fixes this problem I will be more than certain that it’s the odd ball out. I will even goes as far as bedding the old stock if need to run the full test course. Just to prove to myself what the issue is.
 
From what you are describing that's going on it sounds to me like your recoil lug might be sitting too high and working as a fulcrum and not letting the action sit down where it needs to be in the chassis.
 
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That is something I will definitely look at.
 
mi223 said:
Sounds like your smith didnt finish his job.

If a smith sent me a rifle and said "hey this is fucked up" i would be pissed.
Click to expand...

I understand how you can feel that way. He told me about the issue right as it come up. It was my decision to have him send it back this way. Reason is that I paid so much for the chassis and it is advertised as a drop in chassis. If the chassis isn’t right I’m going to go a different route. I’m not going to pay for a drop in chassis that has to be modified and then it won’t fit another Rem 700 action. Kinda Defeats the purpose of buying a chassis like that don’t you think. The Smith was more than willing to make the adjustments, but I don’t think I should pay for an inferior product. Plus do you think anyone is going to take it back once we have worked it over highly doubtful. That is why it was my choice. So no blame goes to him as he was more than willing to make it work.

As to the thought that the recoil lug was to high. That has been looked at and it is not the issue. Thank you for that insight. I appreciate this.
I’m not here to bash the gun smith or the chassis maker or the action maker. Sometimes things get missed by a company when they are making these. It’s a new chassis so it’s going to have growing pains. The action has been out for awhile , they to make changes when an issue arises it happens. I’m looking for a resolution not a hanging. That isn’t going to happen here. I’m simply asking for some insight if anyone has run into this. This isn’t going to be a witch-hunt. So if you are looking to get your hoods out and go hang someone on the cross ride in a different direction.
 
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Try running it without the supplied washers for the action screws.
No issues here w/ TL3s / ACC
 
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Okay talked with Anthony this morning. He has some suggestions as in what order to torque the screws in as well as torque ft. Lbs. 60-65
Going to rest to his recommendations hopefully this fixes the problem.
Thank you for the simple suggestions
Anthony
 
Badfinger said:
I would think you could put some marking grease ( lipstick if nothing else ) on the action and see where the contact is???
Click to expand...

I’m going to lay down some of that carbon paper in it put it together to see the points of contact. This will basically give me a blue print of it from the inside.
Thanks for the hint.
 
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also - what barrel are you running with the origin? I had ran in to barrel nut issues at one time.
 
I dropped a Bighorn into an MDT ESS last year and had to leave out one of the three screws that fastens the plastic forearm grip onto the forearm because it was interfering with the recoil lug. The head of the screw was hitting the bottom of the lug. The smith said it was best to not cut a relief in the lug to make room for this screw because it could hurt resale down the road. It is still rock solid with just two screws but I was a bit disappointed because I too had saved up for a long time gathering parts for this build. But the rifle shoots great and I forgot about that missing screw until I saw your post. I’m not sure how the ACC fastens together but check your screws to see if they are making contact with any part of the barreled action.
 
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Hey @Rutter I am sorry that I missed this thread originally but I have been a little caught this week with some other projects. Also, it's never good to hear of a customers action not working with our chassis. As anthony would have told you, the installation of the barreled action into the chassis should be as follows:
1.) Insert barreled action into chassis,
2.) Flip the chassis, barrel and action over and thread the front/rear action screws into the action, sandwiching the chassis,
3.) Snug up the front and back action screws enough that they are not rattling, but no too much so that your action can still slide back and forth,
4.) Tilt the whole thing so that the barrel is facing to the ceiling and the rifle is now standing on the buttstock,
5.) With a torque wrench, tighten the front action screw to 60-65 in/lb
6.) Do the same for the rear action screw.

If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten them both with an "L-shaped" allen key to farmer tight ;)

Also, before you do any of that, PM or post some pictures of the chassis (without your barreled action) right in the area where the action will actually contact (around the front and rear action screw).

Also, let me know if you have any more questions!
Josh

Ps. Thanks @MPHReallyRightStuff for tagging me in :)
 
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mm509 said:
I read where the rifle is in transit.
Click to expand...

Yeah it is supposed to be here on Tuesday via the tracking number. I’m really hopeful that this is a small small issue. But like I was told by the “Smith” was bedding it was the fastest and most sure way for this thing to shoot correctly. Im hopeful that what MDT has said for directions will fix this. Just feel bedding it is like having to doctor a new car up to run. Sure seems like a lot of people have to do it. May just be the nature of the beast for this game.
 
Just checking in on this thread to see if the issues were resolved. I just picked up an ACC chassis and will be installing a Kelblys atlas action in it. Hoping for no surprises and a drop in fit.
 
Yes the issue was fixed with Anthony’s suggestions. I let the action screws lose then tightened them back. Via the instructions that he gave me. It seems to be shooting pretty well now. Shot a .25 group with it a week ago. Not to shabby in my opinion.
 
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The only thing I can think of is that the front was torqued first then the back, or opposite of that. I let it lose stood it up then torqued it down one turn at a time going from one bolt to the next till it was tight. Guess it just needed to free it’s self up a bit. Not really sure why or how that made a deference yet it did.
I will say this thing is very comfortable. We got it setup and ever since it’s been a tack driver. Not to knock anything about anyone else chassis’s. But my brother has two others from different makers and he is switching his over to an MDT ACC simply from looking at this one how it runs and how it feels to him.
 
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Rutter said:
The only thing I can think of is that the front was torqued first then the back, or opposite of that. I let it lose stood it up then torqued it down one turn at a time going from one bolt to the next till it was tight. Guess it just needed to free it’s self up a bit. Not really sure why or how that made a deference yet it did.
I will say this thing is very comfortable. We got it setup and ever since it’s been a tack driver. Not to knock anything about anyone else chassis’s. But my brother has two others from different makers and he is switching his over to an MDT ACC simply from looking at this one how it runs and how it feels to him.
Click to expand...
This is something your Smith couldn't figure out?
 
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MDT_Josh said:
Great to hear that you got it sorted out @Rutter ! Let me know if there is anything else I can to to help any of you guys/gals out :)
Click to expand...
Hi Josh
you can always help me and start offering your products inlet for SAKO TRG-42, ?, I know its not that popular, but an HS3 or ESS for it would be a dream for me.
yes I filled your form at the website (1399 times).
hope to see you at IWA next week
 
gol1 said:
Hi Josh
you can always help me and start offering your products inlet for SAKO TRG-42, ?, I know its not that popular, but an HS3 or ESS for it would be a dream for me.
yes I filled your form at the website (1399 times).
hope to see you at IWA next week
Click to expand...

Hi @gol1 !
The TRG-22 and 42 come up every now and then, but we have not received enough interest to actually push ahead with the project juet yet. I won't be at IWA next week, but we will have a whole team that will be, so be sure to drop in and say hi to them!
 
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Hi All
I had the same issue fitting a Borden Super Six action. IMO the rear tang area isn't right as the action tang tapers and doesn't make full contact with the chassis unless the action is stressed, that's why when the front action screw is released the front of the action wants to climb out of the stock. This is why later Manners stocks have a "contoured pillar" at the rear take down screw area to stop this.
I simply bedded under the rear tang, problem fixed.
I've seen this issue on quite a few chassis, some manufactures have fixed this (later Manners and later AISC).
Matt P
 
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Just posting to say I’m having a similar issue. I got an ESS chassis and pulled my action off my other stock and tried to set it in. Not sure the profile of my recoil lug, but it’s lightly tapered, not as much as others seem to be. When I set it in the chassis it hits a spot halfway down and stops. The inside of the recoil lug slot on the chassis looks like it’s got a more aggressive tape. I measured what seems to be the most narrow part of the slot on the chassis and it’s about 1.18”. The bottom and most narrow part of my lug is 1.195”. Should I just file a little bit off of both sides of my lug? Or do I swap lugs?
 
nothingcoolatall said:
Just posting to say I’m having a similar issue. I got an ESS chassis and pulled my action off my other stock and tried to set it in. Not sure the profile of my recoil lug, but it’s lightly tapered, not as much as others seem to be. When I set it in the chassis it hits a spot halfway down and stops. The inside of the recoil lug slot on the chassis looks like it’s got a more aggressive tape. I measured what seems to be the most narrow part of the slot on the chassis and it’s about 1.18”. The bottom and most narrow part of my lug is 1.195”. Should I just file a little bit off of both sides of my lug? Or do I swap lugs?
Click to expand...

That sounds like strange problem, but thanks for bringing it up! What action are you putting in the ESS chassis?

All of our chassis typically allow for a lot of extra clearance around the recoil lug/barrel nut section of the chassis for exactly this reason, but there is a chance we need to make an update :) Also, if you could report your issue to [email protected] and let them know the incompatibility, then we can track it and it'll trigger a product update on our end!

Thanks,
Josh
 
It’s a PTG/Stiller. Rifle made by MHSA. It’s cerakoted OD, and after I tried to seat it I could see some cerakote on the texture inside the chassis where it ran into resistance.
53C00D7B-BC8F-4855-A4DF-079CB8E55273.jpeg
5CAC4539-336F-4AAA-9D97-829D7C25F3EC.jpeg
 
nothingcoolatall said:
It’s a PTG/Stiller. Rifle made by MHSA. It’s cerakoted OD, and after I tried to seat it I could see some cerakote on the texture inside the chassis where it ran into resistance.
View attachment 7496286View attachment 7496287
Click to expand...

Yes, it appears that there is contact between the bottom corners of your lug and the pocket in that ESS body. A small amount of material removal from either the chassis or recoil lug would solve that for sure, and filing/dremeling the chassis will be much easier than the lug (aluminum vs. steel).

Josh
 
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