Might have destroyed my Chargemaster….

[PinesAndProjectiles]

It’s been a while since I’ve loaded any ammo. Maybe six or seven months.

Last time around, I was loading 9mm with TiteGroup.

Complete oversight on my part but I left some powder in the dispenser.

The powder grains are now stuck to the inside of it.

Any ideas on how I can remove all this old powder?

It scrapes off but I’m not sure I’ll be able to get it all. I’m afraid if I use it for another powder, they’ll mix.

 

[Bmghunter]

Wow how long did you leave it before it stuck like that? What's your humidity like? Is this a titegroup issue or all powders?

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

6 or 7 months?

TiteGroup is what’s stuck in there. It’s like it’s glued to the plastic.

 

[lash]

Yikes! That looks like a chemical bond of some sort. I’m not sure what would remove that from the plastic without damaging the plastic itself. Or even if there’s something that will do it.

I suppose maybe you could try contacting RCBS and asking them.

Worst case, I’m seeing them crop up in the PX for around $200 from time to time.

 

[spife7980]

Sand paper if its already out of warranty OR sand paper if you dont care about the warranty.

 

[lash]

Good point. It will be tough to get it shiny smooth again though. Maybe try to finish it with a fine paper.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

Sand paper if its already out of warranty OR sand paper if you dont care about the warranty.

I’ve had these for five or six years so I’m sure the warranty is toast.

The worst part is it clogged the drain chute so it takes forever to get the hopper empty.

 

[spife7980]

I’ve had these for five or six years so I’m sure the warranty is toast.

The worst part is it clogged the drain chute so it takes forever to get the hopper empty.

 

[Dolomite]

Try using some packing tape and dab it to see if it pulls it off. Or compressed air?

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

Try using some packing tape and dab it to see if it pulls it off. Or compressed air?

I’ve been using an old tooth brush and that isn’t touching it.

Some of it will scrape off using a plastic pick.

 

[Bmghunter]

Stupid thought, try lighting it?

 

[Makinchips208]

Did you try burning it out? Joke!

Fine sand paper or such will be the best bet to salvage a ruined hopper.

Excerpt from Hodgden warnings.
“Powder left in the reloader’s powder measure hoppers for extended periods, overnight or several days, should be avoided. Powder needs to be stored in original containers ONLY when not in use. Numerous mod- ern smokeless powders are double base in construction, containing both Nitrocellulose and Nitroglycerine. Many powder measures use plastics containing polystyrene, which Nitroglycerine adversely affects when contact is made for extended periods of time, resulting in etching or misshaping the plastic. Normal usage during the reloading process does not provide adequate time for this to occur, so simply draining hoppers into the original containers when the reloading is completed for the day, prevents damaging the hoppers”

Source.

https://hodgdonpowderco.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/2023-General-Warnings-Rev-05-15-2023-52.pdf

 

[MTRecon]

Long shot but try a test spot of some carbon remover like Hoppes No. 9...

I use it in my Dillon powder measure...

 

[whatsupdoc]

Red scotchbright

 

[RTH1800]

I’m thinking the plastic goods can be replaced by RCBS at a fairly decent price. Might check.

 

[Kadams1563]

Isopropyl alcohol

 

[lash]

Isopropyl alcohol

Then try fire!

 

[supercorndogs]

Once you get it cleaned up get a powder thrower of some type. Life is way to short to be loading ball powder in a charge master.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

Once you get it cleaned up get a powder thrower of some type. Life is way to short to be loading ball powder in a charge master.

Just needed a few rounds for some test fire. After this I moved over to the 750.

 

[Jmkjr87]

Try some acetone

 

[TripleBull]

Try some acetone

Acetone will probably attack the polymer of the Chargemaster, but the powder already has attacked it. So you could do a test in a small area with acetone on a Q-tip to see how it goes. Then finish it with fine, then very fine sandpaper. In the Home Depot paint department, you can find some very fine papers. If you live near a Struers distribution center, they sell FEPA 4000 grit that will produce and optical finish, but you'd invest about 40 hours getting there.

 

[spooledup]

000 Steel wool should do the trick.

 

[Jmkjr87]

Acetone will probably attack the polymer of the Chargemaster, but the powder already has attacked it. So you could do a test in a small area with acetone on a Q-tip to see how it goes. Then finish it with fine, then very fine sandpaper. In the Home Depot paint department, you can find some very fine papers. If you live near a Struers distribution center, they sell FEPA 4000 grit that will produce and optical finish, but you'd invest about 40 hours getting there.

Acetone will effect the color but shouldn't ruin the plastic. Take Q tips and put some brake cleaner, nail polish remover, whatever has acetone and just Scrub the flakes and see if it removes it

 

[Earnhardt]

Dremel, on low RPM, with the long flex attachment, and a buffer bit or light sanding bit

 

[FredHammer]

Hot water, dawn, and lemon juice. Works on brass!

 

[OREGUN]

The only real answer here is fire. You need to light it. Look at your avatar. Do the right thing. Don’t be a pussy.

 

[FredHammer]

The only real answer here is fire. You need to light it. Look at your avatar. Do the right thing. Don’t be a pussy.

I know, but 15 other demented posters beat us to that one!

 

[OREGUN]

I know, but 15 other demented posters beat us to that one!

It’s never too late to do the right thing.

Side note, the burny components of the powder probably got used up reacting with the plastic so it won’t burn now at all but the fact that every post on this thread isn’t “BURN IT” makes me wonder what the hide has become.

 

[FredHammer]

It’s never too late to do the right thing.

Side note, the burny components of the powder probably got used up reacting with the plastic so it won’t burn now at all but the fact that every post on this thread isn’t “BURN IT” makes me wonder what the hide has become.

I almost fell out the tree stand with that!

 

[Makinchips208]

@MinnesotaMulisha on another forum there is stories of rcbs sending free hoppers for broken units.

Call RCBS at (800) 533-5000 , a representative will be available to answer your calls between 7 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. PST Monday through Thursday.

Worth a try, after you burn it of course.

 

[Kramer93]

I did this with an intellidropper a couple years ago. Ended up buying another intellidropper and using the crusty one for spare parts. Have since switched to a fx120i and autotrickler.

I will try burning mine later. If I don't report back within a day or two, don't burn yours.

 

[OREGUN]

If I don't report back within a day or two, don't burn yours.

Now thats the spirit. Godspeed Kramer.

 

[PatMiles]

Have since switched to a fx120i and autotrickler.

Smart man here!

 

[B y r o n]

RCBS will not have parts or warranty your measure. At this point don't damage the electronics with fluids or fire. Take pictures and notes and disassemble the dispenser. Once disassembled try soaking the parts in hot/warm water with Dawn dishwashing soap. Blue Scotch-brite pads will not scratch and should remove remaining residue. Once dry reassemble and give it a try. Even if it doesn't work you really haven't lost anything as you can't use it as it is.

Good Luck!

P.S. - I did have to disassemble my original Chargemaster because of an electrical issue. It was a loose connection that RCBS would not cover and was simple, disconnect all electrical connections and then reconnect. Still working today.

 

[cas6969]

I've seen it embed in plastic hopper tubes, but never into anything else.

Me? I'd wipe it down the best I could, scotch brite it like he says above, and do nothing else, just use it as is.

Unless all the left over powder comes out at once and goes into one single case, I don't expect to notice. I gave up worrying about a little left over minor traces of powder in my Pact unit ages ago.

 

[Kramer93]

I found the pieces from my intellidropper, and it looks like I had already scraped most of the powder off, and attempted to burn it at one point. As it turns out, burning it is not the way. There's a lot of pictures coming up with some text in between. Hopefully it's somewhat easy to follow.

I found the hopper, and I had not attempted to clean that at all. It has been like this for at least two years. This was either CFE 223 or maybe Lil' Gun. Here's a picture of it in original condition, followed by an assortment of cleaning methods I tested on my lunch break today.

First up, soap and water. This made the powder residue easy to remove, and didn't damage the plastic at all. It didn't remove much of the discoloration, but at least it was clean. 7/10

I tried some 91% isopropyl alcohol on that same spot, which showed little improvement. Not worth the time, in my opinion. 3/10

I tried acetone on a different spot. This turned the powder into a thick goo, and started to deform the plastic. -4/10

CLR. Worked ok, didn't deform the plastic. Wasn't as easy to wipe powder off as just soap and water. 5/10

Patch out & accelerator. Similar results to CLR. Kind of a waste, in my opinion. 5/10

I had a few other solvents available, but not a lot of time left for lunch, so fire was the only option at that point. It lit slower than I expected, but once it lit, all of it went up fairly quick. It burned for a few seconds, then fizzled out, not changing much in appearance. 16/10, would certainly recommend.

The top half of this picture is just burned, the bottom half is burned, then Patch out & accelerator.

After all the exciting stuff was complete, I used hot soapy water and steel wool. This seemed to be the most efficient and effective way to clean the hopper. Again, it didn't take all of the discoloration out, but it removed any residue as far as I could tell. I'd feel comfortable using this hopper in the future, but might flip it over so the discolored portion isn't in contact with the powder most of the time. 9/10

After this not so scientific test, I'd recommend disassembling everything, and cleaning it with soap and water first. If that doesn't remove enough of the residue, maybe try sanding it with a very fine grit sandpaper afterwards. I can try that later, if that would be any help.

 

[straightshooter1]

I found the pieces from my intellidropper, and it looks like I had already scraped most of the powder off, and attempted to burn it at one point. As it turns out, burning it is not the way. There's a lot of pictures coming up with some text in between. Hopefully it's somewhat easy to follow.

View attachment 8262646
View attachment 8262647


I found the hopper, and I had not attempted to clean that at all. It has been like this for at least two years. This was either CFE 223 or maybe Lil' Gun. Here's a picture of it in original condition, followed by an assortment of cleaning methods I tested on my lunch break today.
View attachment 8262654

First up, soap and water. This made the powder residue easy to remove, and didn't damage the plastic at all. It didn't remove much of the discoloration, but at least it was clean. 7/10
View attachment 8262659

I tried some 91% isopropyl alcohol on that same spot, which showed little improvement. Not worth the time, in my opinion. 3/10
View attachment 8262661

I tried acetone on a different spot. This turned the powder into a thick goo, and started to deform the plastic. -4/10
View attachment 8262688

CLR. Worked ok, didn't deform the plastic. Wasn't as easy to wipe powder off as just soap and water. 5/10
View attachment 8262701


Patch out & accelerator. Similar results to CLR. Kind of a waste, in my opinion. 5/10
View attachment 8262706

I had a few other solvents available, but not a lot of time left for lunch, so fire was the only option at that point. It lit slower than I expected, but once it lit, all of it went up fairly quick. It burned for a few seconds, then fizzled out, not changing much in appearance. 16/10, would certainly recommend.
View attachment 8262710
View attachment 8262711
View attachment 8262717

The top half of this picture is just burned, the bottom half is burned, then Patch out & accelerator.
View attachment 8262719

After all the exciting stuff was complete, I used hot soapy water and steel wool. This seemed to be the most efficient and effective way to clean the hopper. Again, it didn't take all of the discoloration out, but it removed any residue as far as I could tell. I'd feel comfortable using this hopper in the future, but might flip it over so the discolored portion isn't in contact with the powder most of the time. 9/10
View attachment 8262722

After this not so scientific test, I'd recommend disassembling everything, and cleaning it with soap and water first. If that doesn't remove enough of the residue, maybe try sanding it with a very fine grit sandpaper afterwards. I can try that later, if that would be any help.

Now try toothpaste or a car paste wax.

 

[JoshPutman]

I just remembered, Deep Woods Off will clear up a plastic headlight lense when wiped on it. Something about the Deet in it. Damndest thing I ever saw.

Might be worth a try on a small spot.