Mighty Armory Sizing Dies

[padom]

Ive been running 4 or 5 presses for years now. Multiple XL650's, 550c, Co-Ax and Rockchucker for everything from precision rifle rounds, to mass produced pistol and AR rounds. One problem I had for years was decapping dies and pins. I have a pile of them sitting here that I have trashed over the years with broken pins, easily bend pins, etc. Its now been a few years since I discovered and started using the Mighty Armory decapping dies with their Super Duty pins. Hands down the best decapping die and pins Ive ever used. Wayne over at Mighty Armory is great guy and always willing to talk shop about his products.

I found out Mighty Armory made sizing dies from someone else and decided to give them a try. I received my first Mighty Armory FL sizing die in 308win a few months ago. When it showed up and I took it out of the box I could see the fit and finish instantly compared to my Forster and Redding dies. The machine work and polish inside is a step above your typical Forster and Redding dies.

I used the 308win FL sizing die for an entire bolt gun review with Lapua brass. I used my 99% Alcohol/Lanolin mixture that Ive been using for years and you can feel the difference when you size your first piece of brass. Its effortless and sizes like butter. I was so happy with it I picked 2 more up in 6.5x47L and .223rem. I sized 400pc of 6.5x47L last week and couldnt be happier with the sizing die.

Anyone looking for a beautifully machined and polished FL sizing die that doesn't break the bank, I cant recommend these Mighty Armory sizing dies enough. And its a huge bonus you can use Mighty Armory's super duty decapping pins with these dies as well. They are tougher than anything out there with a .074 bend rate 1000+ lbs. You can punch berdan primers out thats how strong they are.

The Mighty Armory GOLD MATCH 6.5 Creedmoor is a Precision Match Series Sizing Die with a decapping shaft and pin.

• 100% CNC machined, Made in the USA.
• High grade tool steel, heat treated (beats carbide)
• 5 Bore Finish glass polished
• Concentricity -.0005 at the case mouth and shoulder radius.
• Modular design, no tools needed.
• Better than Carbide. No inserts. Lanolin based lube works best.

Includes:

• Mighty Armory GOLD MATCH 6.5 Creedmoor Sizing Decapping Die
• Mandrel expander shaft
• One Super Duty .072 decapping pin and one .057 decapping pin
• Pointer - a guide used in place of the pin

“Get Tough Stay Mighty”

SHOP ALL ITEMS

Precision CNC Machined Reloading Dies. We machine 100% in the USA. Striving to be the industry's best every day! You won't be disappointed with Mighty Armory!

www.mightyarmory.com

 

[AllenOne1]

My experience with Wayne did not match yours unfortunately.

 

[padom]

Nice ad for Mighty Armory. My experience with Wayne did not match yours unfortunately.

This isn't an ad. Its an independent review and first hand experience with dies I PURCHASED and have been using for a few months now. You didn't have a good experience with Wayne and want to state that, that's fine, but don't come in here and shit on my thread calling it something it isnt. Your only warning. Do you own any MA sizing dies? Do you have any feedback, first hand experience or input on them?

 

[AllenOne1]

This isn't an ad. Its an independent review and first hand experience with dies I PURCHASED and have been using for a few months now. You didn't have a good experience with Wayne and want to state that, that's fine, but don't come in here and shit on my thread calling it something it isnt. Your only warning. Do you own any MA sizing dies? Do you have any feedback, first hand experience or input on them?

Fixed it. I have first hand experience with the company.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

I too have great luck with the 6,5CM Mighty Armory Sizer. Super smooth, the reduced effort required with this die, after using any other sizer is instantly noticeable.

I actually ordered and received the new "flag star" ,223 sizer a couple weeks back. It's a lower level of die, but at $30 I figured why not, since I had such great luck with their normal dies. I haven't had a need to size ,223 yet but will report on the differences when I get some handle pulls in the next couple weeks.

 

[padom]

I too have great luck with the 6,5CM Mighty Armory Sizer. Super smooth, the reduced effort required with this die, after using any other sizer is instantly noticeable.

I actually ordered and received the new "flag star" ,223 sizer a couple weeks back. It's a lower level of die, but at $30 I figured why not, since I had such great luck with their normal dies. I haven't had a need to size ,223 yet but will report on the differences when I get some handle pulls in the next couple weeks.

Flag Star huh? Didnt even know that existed! Definitely let us know what you think, Im interested to hear. I have the Gold FL Sizing die in 223rem as well but havent used it yet. I dont expect anything different from the Gold 308win and 6.5x47L.

 

[Cascade Hemi]

Ive been running 4 or 5 presses for years now. Multiple XL650's, 550c, Co-Ax and Rockchucker for everything from precision rifle rounds, to mass produced pistol and AR rounds. One problem I had for years was decapping dies and pins. I have a pile of them sitting here that I have trashed over the years with broken pins, easily bend pins, etc. Its now been a few years since I discovered and started using the Mighty Armory decapping dies with their Super Duty pins. Hands down the best decapping die and pins Ive ever used. Wayne over at Mighty Armory is great guy and always willing to talk shop about his products.

I found out Mighty Armory made sizing dies from someone else and decided to give them a try. I received my first Mighty Armory FL sizing die in 308win a few months ago. When it showed up and I took it out of the box I could see the fit and finish instantly compared to my Forster and Redding dies. The machine work and polish inside is a step above your typical Forster and Redding dies.

I used the 308win FL sizing die for an entire bolt gun review with Lapua brass. I used my 99% Alcohol/Lanolin mixture that Ive been using for years and you can feel the difference when you size your first piece of brass. Its effortless and sizes like butter. I was so happy with it I picked 2 more up in 6.5x47L and .223rem. I sized 400pc of 6.5x47L last week and couldnt be happier with the sizing die.

Anyone looking for a beautifully machined and polished FL sizing die that doesn't break the bank, I cant recommend these Mighty Armory sizing dies enough. And its a huge bonus you can use Mighty Armory's super duty decapping pins with these dies as well. They are tougher than anything out there with a .074 bend rate 1000+ lbs. You can punch berdan primers out thats how strong they are.

The Mighty Armory GOLD MATCH 6.5 Creedmoor is a Precision Match Series Sizing Die with a decapping shaft and pin.

• 100% CNC machined, Made in the USA.
• High grade tool steel, heat treated (beats carbide)
• 5 Bore Finish glass polished
• Concentricity -.0005 at the case mouth and shoulder radius.
• Modular design, no tools needed.
• Better than Carbide. No inserts. Lanolin based lube works best.

Includes:

• Mighty Armory GOLD MATCH 6.5 Creedmoor Sizing Decapping Die
• Mandrel expander shaft
• One Super Duty .072 decapping pin and one .057 decapping pin
• Pointer - a guide used in place of the pin

“Get Tough Stay Mighty”

SHOP ALL ITEMS

Precision CNC Machined Reloading Dies. We machine 100% in the USA. Striving to be the industry's best every day! You won't be disappointed with Mighty Armory!

www.mightyarmory.com

Thanks for the review. Are you using the 6.5CM die with an expander ball? If not, what is your sized case neck OD when it comes out of the die? I don't exactly need more dies but I'm trying to get away from sizing mandrels and I'm wondering what kind of sized case dimensions you're seeing.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Are you using the 6.5CM die with an expander ball? If not, what is your sized case neck OD when it comes out of the die? I don't exactly need more dies but I'm trying to get away from sizing mandrels and I'm wondering what kind of sized case dimensions you're seeing.

I'm using it with the expander - It's less of a ball and more mandrel like. I'm seeing pretty consistent 2k neck tension (OD measurement and plug gauge). What dimension are you looking for specifically?

 

[Threadcutter308]

Padom;

No prior experience with them. It looks like the top of the decapping stem butts up against the inside of the top cap (?). If so, that would stop “Stem walk” that I have with my decapping dies that use collets to hold them in place. That’s a big bonus in my book. Seems like no matter how hard you tighten the collets, the stems eventually walk. That has been a constant source of aggravation for me.

 

[padom]

Thanks for the review. Are you using the 6.5CM die with an expander ball? If not, what is your sized case neck OD when it comes out of the die? I don't exactly need more dies but I'm trying to get away from sizing mandrels and I'm wondering what kind of sized case dimensions you're seeing.

I dont have the 6.5cm die. I have 308win, 6.5x47L and .223rem. Ive used the 308win and the 6.5x47L so far, sizing over 400pcs of brass in each caliber. I havent used the .223win yet... what I can tell you, is I am getting .0025 neck tension on both dies Ive used. If you have followed my reloading postings over the years, you know Ive been using Forster FL honed sizing dies and 21st Century mandrels for a LONG time with great success. I did a side by side accuracy comparison with 308win Lapua brass sized with the Forster/21st Century setup and the single MA Gold FL sizing die. ZERO accuracy difference and smoother, easier sizing with this MA Gold die.

If you are interested in the type of accuracy, pop over to the Bolt Action subforum and check out my Bartlein 5R vs Krieger 4 Groove testing thread,, all targets are in there. Every piece of brass in that review was sized with the MA Gold 30win FL sizing die and accuracy was excellent.

 

[padom]

Padom;

No prior experience with them. It looks like the top of the decapping stem butts up against the inside of the top cap (?). If so, that would stop “Stem walk” that I have with my decapping dies that use collets to hold them in place. That’s a big bonus in my book. Seems like no matter how hard you tighten the collets, the stems eventually walk. That has been a constant source of aggravation for me.

Yes you are 100% correct and I know EXACTLY what you mean with the stem walking.... So frustrating when your processing 1000's of pieces of brass on a XL650 and come to realize your decapping stem walked and half your brass isnt decapped.....grrr.. Not with the MA decapping or FL sizing dies. If your on a progressive The Blue is amazing with a sprig that kicks the primer out....

Mighty Armory BLUE Magnum Decapping Die

Includes: - Mighty Armory THE BLUE Decapping Die - Mighty Armory cap with primer flicker spring - Three (3) Mighty Armory .074 Super Duty Pins - Mighty Armory heat treated and tempered drop in shaft “Get Tough Stay Mighty” "World's Toughest" Reloading Dies Precision Reloading Tools Made in the...

www.mightyarmory.com

 

[akmike47]

I've heard mixed reviews on Wayne, but that aside I've had a good experience with the product.

My first die from him I received the second case stuck(first ever stick case). I emailed asking about the best way to remove it. He had me send pictures and it seemed mine wasn't polished all the way. He immediately sent a new die without me asking and a return label for the one that stuck.

He emailed multiple times checking everything was fine after.

I have noticed that the less lube the better(to an extent obviously) if wax builds up on the stem it creates suction and takes a good bit of force to remove. Which is odd but not a huge deal I suppose as it takes seconds to clean.

 

[padom]

Well funny enough I just got this Mighty Armory Black Friday email

 

[Threadcutter308]

Yes you are 100% correct and I know EXACTLY what you mean with the stem walking.... So frustrating when your processing 1000's of pieces of brass on a XL650 and come to realize your decapping stem walked and half your brass isnt decapped.....grrr.. Not with the MA decapping or FL sizing dies. If your on a progressive The Blue is amazing with a sprig that kicks the primer out....

Mighty Armory BLUE Magnum Decapping Die

Includes: - Mighty Armory THE BLUE Decapping Die - Mighty Armory cap with primer flicker spring - Three (3) Mighty Armory .074 Super Duty Pins - Mighty Armory heat treated and tempered drop in shaft “Get Tough Stay Mighty” "World's Toughest" Reloading Dies Precision Reloading Tools Made in the...

www.mightyarmory.com

You just 100% nailed my setup and experience......

I see your sale flyer and I'm going to check them out.

 

[padom]

I've heard mixed reviews on Wayne, but that aside I've had a good experience with the product.

My first die from him I received the second case stuck(first ever stick case). I emailed asking about the best way to remove it. He had me send pictures and it seemed mine wasn't polished all the way. He immediately sent a new die without me asking and a return label for the one that stuck.

He emailed multiple times checking everything was fine after.

I have noticed that the less lube the better(to an extent obviously) if wax builds up on the stem it creates suction and takes a good bit of force to remove. Which is odd but not a huge deal I suppose as it takes seconds to clean.

What lube are you using? This may be why they recommend using the 99% Alcohol/Lanolin mixture on the instructions that come with the die. That is what Ive been using for years and havent had any issues. Dump brass in plastic bin, few sprays of Lanolin mix, shake and then let sit for 10min and then size like butter.

 

[Cascade Hemi]

I'm using it with the expander - It's less of a ball and more mandrel like. I'm seeing pretty consistent 2k neck tension (OD measurement and plug gauge). What dimension are you looking for specifically?

The mandrel diameter and your brass thickness would be great. My brass is turned.

 

[akmike47]

What lube are you using? This may be why they recommend using the 99% Alcohol/Lanolin mixture on the instructions that come with the die. That is what Ive been using for years and havent had any issues. Dump brass in plastic bin, few sprays of Lanolin mix, shake and then let sit for 10min and then size like butter.

Sizing wax

 

[padom]

Sizing wax

that could be lending to the issue. It does say to use Lanolin in the instructions and I havent had any issues using it... You may just have to clean more frequently

 

[akmike47]

that could be lending to the issue. It does say to use Lanolin in the instructions and I havent had any issues using it... You may just have to clean more frequently

It's what I had, and he said it's fine. Says just not to use one shot spray

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

The mandrel diameter and your brass thickness would be great. My brass is turned.

The mandrel diameter is ,2615" with a sizing area approx ,360" long. I measured with calipers- I don't have a micrometer atm.

Brass is 3x fired alpha LRP - measurimg ,014- ,015 for neck thickness.

 

[Mr Flannel]

I've got the decapper, which is the absolute duck's balls. Love the damned thing. Also have the 6.5CM FL die - have had it for some time. Excellent.

I've been using sizing wax very sparingly, without issue. I sent Wayne an email ages ago asking why he says not to use Hornady 1-shot but got no reply. Assume it's because of potential sticking - but that's just a guess.

 

[cat-mechanic]

Well funny enough I just got this Mighty Armory Black Friday email

Is it just me and my warped brain? Are the names he chose dual purpose for sex toy names as well? "Down and Dirty", "Red Bull", "Big Boy.

 

[Krob95]

After reading this thread I may just get the 6.5 cm FL die and give it a try. I’ve always used Redding type s bushing dies but I’m open to trying new things. I decap with a Harvey deprimer before I tumble so I’m not concerned with the decapping operation.

As far as neck tension, these dies just set that for you? No bushing or any need for an additional mandrel? I’ll be using lapua brass.

 

[padom]

After reading this thread I may just get the 6.5 cm FL die and give it a try. I’ve always used Redding type s bushing dies but I’m open to trying new things. I decap with a Harvey deprimer before I tumble so I’m not concerned with the decapping operation.

As far as neck tension, these dies just set that for you? No bushing or any need for an additional mandrel? I’ll be using lapua brass.

Yep they sent perfect neck tension. I use Lapua brass with mine, neck tension is perfect.

 

[Krob95]

Awesome. I may give it a go and see how I like it! Thanks man!

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Quick update - since I just got to pull the handle a few times, and I got a PM asking about the Flag Star Sizer...

I just got the 223 flag star sizer into my Dillon 550. Couple issues right away - Don't plan on using this with a floating toolhead. There's not enough thread left above the toolhead to use a floating lock ring, or even a lock ring and O ring on the dillon alluminum anodized toolheads.

EDIT: The issue was running the armanov toolhead without the matching lock ring. Running a standard Dillon head - no issues at all. Update post below.

As soon as this post is done, I'm reheating leftovers and pushing out an email to Wayne. I may be a one off experience, or I may be overlooking something in hanger, as the rest of the die is quite nice, and the Gold Medal 6,5 is the cat's pajamas.

OTHERWISE
I got this die primarily to run without the expander - chased with a mandrel die. The inside finish is good. It's not the mirror polish of the gold medal, but it has a black coating and sizes quite smoothly. Again, it's not the buttery wow factor of the gold medal die, but it is better than the Dillon or redding dies I was using before.

Pictures compare the Gold Medal 6,5 Creed (left and top) with the Black Flag 223 sizer. I can provide additional images or measurements on request.

 

[Cascade Hemi]

I can't tell from your picture, can you put the lock ring on the underside of the toolhead? I have a few dies from other manufacturers that I have to use the lock ring on the bottom of the tool head instead of the top.

 

[Tokay444]

Can you get a lock ring on the bottom of the die, underneath the block? Also, it looks as though you need to tighten the pin in all the way till it shoulders up better. I think the case would have an easier time if there wasn’t a gap there to get caught on.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

I can't tell from your picture, can you put the lock ring on the underside of the toolhead? I have a few dies from other manufacturers that I have to use the lock ring on the bottom of the tool head instead of the top.

I could, but that defeats the purpose of the armanov toolhead.

Also, it looks as though you need to tighten the pin in all the way till it shoulders up better. I think the case would have an easier time if there wasn’t a gap there to get caught on.

I took that picture before I put the die together - I did notice that and tightened it before I started. It is not loose. There is still a lip prior to the taper and the taper is extremely short. If I pull the squished cases and put the decapping rod into them - they all catch right where the decapping pin threads in - there's a definite lip there.

 

[Tokay444]

I conversed with Wayne back and forth for 3 or 4 emails and he was very quick to respond and answer all my questions.
I have been using a Redding Comp die set with a bushing neck die and body bump die, with excellent results, but adding in an expander mandrel for final sizing and I was just pulling the press way too many times to make a cartridge. Especially if I decapped before annealing. The thought of cutting out those extra pulls was very appealing.
I will say I have not emailed Wayne about this, and it’s not my intent to point fingers at the die. It’s a very stout unit and a very nice design. I’m still in the problem solving phase and hope to not even bother Wayne at all. Especially being cross border.
The first anomaly was that the die bottomed out on my shell holder before I could get my .002” shoulder bump that I do with my Redding die. No big deal. I faced .020” off my shell holder and got the bump I needed. The die does run extremely smooth and measured concentricity is every bit as good as advertised.
The issue I’m still troubleshooting is shoulder sooting that I’ve never gotten with any factory ammo or ammo I’ve made with my previous die setups. It’s weird. I have the same headspace measurements that I achieve with my Redding die. I even used two different size comparators to check different datum on two cases sized with each die, and they’re the same, so it’s not a shoulder angle issue. I thought perhaps because the Redding neck bushing die doesn’t size all the way down the neck, and the body die doesn’t touch the neck at all, maybe that unsized portion was acting to seal the chamber, and the new die was sizing that portion now, but if it is, it’s only minutely, and not an amount I can decipher with calipers. Also, factory ammo has never sooted the shoulder. I thought maybe because this brass has been sized with the Redding dies so many times, perhaps I should just keep them married to each other, so I shot some Berger factory ammo and resized that with the Mighty Armory die, but it still neck sooted. Research says my loads may be light, or my brass may need annealing. I’m running 42.5gr of H4350 behind Berger 140 Hybrids and running 2820-2850 FPS, and anneal every firing.
I have two more things I want to try. Removing the expander and running my previous mandrel through instead. Maybe the expander is pulling on the shoulder and causing some weird change in geometry that I can’t determine with my caliper, and I want to try a different chamber with once fired brass then run through the Mighty Armory die.
I know that if I email Wayne he’ll have suggestions for me. I don’t doubt his level of service for a second, but I pride myself on being a problem solver of these sorts in my day job, so I can’t throw in the towel yet.
All that said, I cannot say definitively that this shoulder sooting is even an actual problem. My ES are greater as one may expect with more pressure leaking back behind the case mouth, but out to 300 yards, I haven’t really measured much of an accuracy difference.

 

[Rathmatik]

I conversed with Wayne back and forth for 3 or 4 emails and he was very quick to respond and answer all my questions.
I have been using a Redding Comp die set with a bushing neck die and body bump die, with excellent results, but adding in an expander mandrel for final sizing and I was just pulling the press way too many times to make a cartridge. Especially if I decapped before annealing. The thought of cutting out those extra pulls was very appealing.
I will say I have not emailed Wayne about this, and it’s not my intent to point fingers at the die. It’s a very stout unit and a very nice design. I’m still in the problem solving phase and hope to not even bother Wayne at all. Especially being cross border.
The first anomaly was that the die bottomed out on my shell holder before I could get my .002” shoulder bump that I do with my Redding die. No big deal. I faced .020” off my shell holder and got the bump I needed. The die does run extremely smooth and measured concentricity is every bit as good as advertised.
The issue I’m still troubleshooting is shoulder sooting that I’ve never gotten with any factory ammo or ammo I’ve made with my previous die setups. It’s weird. I have the same headspace measurements that I achieve with my Redding die. I even used two different size comparators to check different datum on two cases sized with each die, and they’re the same, so it’s not a shoulder angle issue. I thought perhaps because the Redding neck bushing die doesn’t size all the way down the neck, and the body die doesn’t touch the neck at all, maybe that unsized portion was acting to seal the chamber, and the new die was sizing that portion now, but if it is, it’s only minutely, and not an amount I can decipher with calipers. Also, factory ammo has never sooted the shoulder. I thought maybe because this brass has been sized with the Redding dies so many times, perhaps I should just keep them married to each other, so I shot some Berger factory ammo and resized that with the Mighty Armory die, but it still neck sooted. Research says my loads may be light, or my brass may need annealing. I’m running 42.5gr of H4350 behind Berger 140 Hybrids and running 2820-2850 FPS, and anneal every firing.
I have two more things I want to try. Removing the expander and running my previous mandrel through instead. Maybe the expander is pulling on the shoulder and causing some weird change in geometry that I can’t determine with my caliper, and I want to try a different chamber with once fired brass then run through the Mighty Armory die.
I know that if I email Wayne he’ll have suggestions for me. I don’t doubt his level of service for a second, but I pride myself on being a problem solver of these sorts in my day job, so I can’t throw in the towel yet.
All that said, I cannot say definitively that this shoulder sooting is even an actual problem. My ES are greater as one may expect with more pressure leaking back behind the case mouth, but out to 300 yards, I haven’t really measured much of an accuracy difference.

So, to summarize your findings (besides the shoulder soot, which I can't comment much about), you are not seeing much of a difference between these two combinations in terms of accuracy?
a) Redding bushing neck die, body die, expander mandrel die
b) Might Armory (guessing Gold Match) resizing die by itself with its provided expander

 

[Tokay444]

So, to summarize your findings (besides the shoulder soot, which I can't comment much about), you are not seeing much of a difference between these two combinations in terms of accuracy?
a) Redding bushing neck die, body die, expander mandrel die
b) Might Armory (guessing Gold Match) resizing die by itself with its provided expander

This barrel isn’t good enough to shoot the difference between die setups unfortunately, but, the Mighty Armory die does mirror the dimensions of my Redding bushing at .288 and 21st Century mandrel at .262.

 

[Rathmatik]

This barrel isn’t good enough to shoot the difference between die setups unfortunately, but, the Mighty Armory die does mirror the dimensions of my Redding bushing at .288 and 21st Century mandrel at .262.

Ah okay, that makes sense. I actually have that same bushing for 6.5 CM (with Hornady MG bushing die). I have the Sinclair mandrel for 6.5, which is .263, and so far works well. I already do case prep on a separate toolhead on my 550, so not too worried about saving steps. Perhaps I'll check out the MA die if it ever goes on a decent sale, as I don't think I want to fork out $120 for just a resizer right now lol.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

I had a great phone call with Wayne from Mighty Armory today – I’m up and rocking and rolling with the Flag Star. There’s some misalignment when you run a no-play toolhead without the floating lock ring, and that was causing the case to enter the die off center. Returning to a standard Dillon toolhead with a little bit of float got it running smoothly.

I’m now running a very consistent shoulder bump – seeing +/- .0005 on shoulder bump and pin gauges are showing a very consistent .221 inside neck diameter (the expander is .222, so I’m seeing 1k springback with 4x fired and not annealed brass).

Also, now that I’ve pulled it some- this thing is a smooth sizer.

 

[Krob95]

Ran 100 pieces of once fired 6.5cm lapua SRP brass through the MA gold die and it was like a hot knife through butter. Neck tension felt very nice and consistent when seating bullets too. Took 10 rounds to the range to chrono and see how my numbers look, first 5 are the top picture and then the bottom pic is all 10 together. I’m impressed. Feels better than any of my Redding type s dies and so much smoother. Definitely going to get the 308 version.

 

[Tokay444]

I took the expander out and ran the same mandrel I run when using my Redding setup, but still had neck sooting.
My next thing to try will be a different barrel. But again, this doesn’t happen in this barrel with my Redding dies.

 

[padom]

For anyone wondering, I talked to Wayne last week and he said their .223rem GOLD dies were in production last week then out to heat treat so they should be up on the website real soon. He said 6.5cm GOLD dies were scheduled to go into production this week then they will go out to heat treat and be up on the website as well. They are doing all they can to keep up and need to add another CNC as their order volume has exploded.

He also said they have new dies ready to machine and specifically mentioned 6GT and 6ARC. I know 6BR was on the list as well and someone else mentioned 6BRA also.

 

[Krob95]

For anyone wondering, I talked to Wayne last week and he said their .223rem GOLD dies were in production last week then out to heat treat so they should be up on the website real soon. He said 6.5cm GOLD dies were scheduled to go into production this week then they will go out to heat treat and be up on the website as well. They are doing all they can to keep up and need to add another CNC as their order volume has exploded.

He also said they have new dies ready to machine and specifically mentioned 6GT and 6ARC. I know 6BR was on the list as well and someone else mentioned 6BRA also.

Did he tell you if they had an ETA on the new dies?

 

[padom]

Mighty Armory has .223rem, 300BO, 6cm, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5x47L back in stock.

6.5cm should be back in another week or two

 

[clcustom1911]

I had a great phone call with Wayne from Mighty Armory today – I’m up and rocking and rolling with the Flag Star. There’s some misalignment when you run a no-play toolhead without the floating lock ring, and that was causing the case to enter the die off center. Returning to a standard Dillon toolhead with a little bit of float got it running smoothly.

I’m now running a very consistent shoulder bump – seeing +/- .0005 on shoulder bump and pin gauges are showing a very consistent .221 inside neck diameter (the expander is .222, so I’m seeing 1k springback with 4x fired and not annealed brass).

Also, now that I’ve pulled it some- this thing is a smooth sizer.

Just picked of the Flag Star 223 die. Do you set the 223 sizing die all the way down to where it's contacting the shell plate?

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Just picked of the Flag Star 223 die. Do you set the 223 sizing die all the way down to where it's contacting the shell plate?

I set it for 3k shoulder bump, which on my 550 has it making very light contact with the shell plate.

 

[clcustom1911]

I set it for 3k shoulder bump, which on my 550 has it making very light contact with the shell plate.

Fantastic. Great to hear. That'll perfectly offset the pressure of my seating die on #3 station.

 

[akmike47]

I like mine a lot, just have to be careful with over lubricating gets any in the vent and it'll lift my bench off the floor removing the case lol

 

[Shutrmgavin]

Would I be at any disadvantage with the - 0.005" headspace sizing dies? It seems like there would only be an advantage if I had thin brass?? But no disadvante. Thanks.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Would I be at any disadvantage with the - 0.005" headspace sizing dies? It seems like there would only be an advantage if I had thin brass?? But no disadvante. Thanks.

That's -5k headspace, or how far you can push the shoulder back. If you want a different neck dimension to account for brass thickness, you can call Wayne and he'll custom hone one for you.

I don't see a disadvantage to the -5, except that there may be slightly less sizing at the very base of the case.

 

[Shutrmgavin]

That's -5k headspace, or how far you can push the shoulder back. If you want a different neck dimension to account for brass thickness, you can call Wayne and he'll custom hone one for you.

I don't see a disadvantage to the -5, except that there may be slightly less sizing at the very base of the case.

Ah, I see. There were reports in another thread of these dies not sizing thin walled brass enough. It sounds like the -5k would exacerbate that if one had that thinner brass.

 

[Shutrmgavin]

I had a great phone call with Wayne from Mighty Armory today – I’m up and rocking and rolling with the Flag Star. There’s some misalignment when you run a no-play toolhead without the floating lock ring, and that was causing the case to enter the die off center. Returning to a standard Dillon toolhead with a little bit of float got it running smoothly.

I’m now running a very consistent shoulder bump – seeing +/- .0005 on shoulder bump and pin gauges are showing a very consistent .221 inside neck diameter (the expander is .222, so I’m seeing 1k springback with 4x fired and not annealed brass).

Also, now that I’ve pulled it some- this thing is a smooth sizer.

I wonder what I"m doing wrong. I have about 6-7x the variance on my shoulder bump, I wonder what I'm doing wrong?? Using federal and lake city once fired brass separated by headstamp lanolin and alcohol for lube. 223. I might get 5 in a row that are the same but then one will be .002-.006 smaller or bigger.

 

[Tokay444]

I wonder what I"m doing wrong. I have about 6-7x the variance on my shoulder bump, I wonder what I'm doing wrong?? Using federal and lake city once fired brass separated by headstamp lanolin and alcohol for lube. 223. I might get 5 in a row that are the same but then one will be .002-.006 smaller or bigger.

Are you annealing?

 

[Shutrmgavin]

Are you annealing?

Haven't yet. Only one firing so far.

 

[Tokay444]

Haven't yet. Only one firing so far.

That’s part of the issue.
The only way to get consistent results is to have consistent process. You can’t have a consistent process if you introduce something only every 3rd or 4th firing.