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Gunsmithing Milling aluminum chassis

Mike_R

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 13, 2010
83
3
Lately I have been somewhat intrigued by an idea...

Has anyone on here successfully made their own aluminum chassis for their rifle? I have seen the XLR, PDC, McRee's, Whiskey 3 as well as the AICS and Roedale systems that have a skin.
I have been working with kydex lately for holsters and mag pouches and had the thought that I might try to make a chassis and then a "skin" for a skeletonized fore end and a cheek piece for the rear.

I have both a remington 700 and a FN SPR that I want to throw in some sort of chassis system. I might try the 700 first because it is push feed and I anticipate making an internal mag box for it, the SPR I would want to set up for the AI mags. It seems like the flat bottom of the SPR would be easy to inlet for but I don't know. It also seems if I screw it up and mill too much out I could just epoxy bed any "loose" points.

I am tempted to try it but I might be better off just buying a Manners and some bottom metal and bedding it.
Any ideas?
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

It's a ton of work to make a chassis, you will find it's easier just to buy one, it was quite a process for each of the companies you listed above to get theirs dialed in.

On the other hand, making stuff yourself is very rewarding and I say go for it and post pics. The Kydex thing has been done by Sage or someone who makes an M14 chassis, and we're working on some stuff like that, but that shouldn't be a deterrent.

Also, the flat bottom first is a good idea, and try to use something without a lot of weird things sticking out like the Rem bolt release system.
Justin
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

building a chassis would be awesome as you could incorporate all of the design details you prefer that may or may not be available on already existing setups Alot of work but it will probably be worth it in the end
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

I've seen a few folks who've done it. I've got it as one of my "things to do one day" but that's just because I like making stuff. IMHO if you haven't already got a CNC and a TIG you're setting yourself up for pain.
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

I have no doubt that it will take me a while to get it right. I think the KRG offering is an excellent example of "right" and realize that mine will probably not be as well polished as the whiskey 3 but I still think I want to give this a try.

Right now I don't have any CNC equipment and I only have MIG and oxyacetylene rig but I do have access to a TIG setup and a few other pieces of equipment. Depending on how difficult the design gets I may even just have the work done locally but I am wanting to give this a try.

S1erra1- That is inspiring! Excellent work! The incorporation of the quad rail handguard and sleeving the reciever was very well executed in my opinion. Your thread helped me confirm that this is what I want to do!

I am thinking of trying to make something similar to the Grunig and Elmiger revolution stock from the rear action screw forward although much less flashy and elegant. Key features I like are the profile which is approximately octagonal- really more square with the corners knocked off and the "bottom metal" or mag system. It can be removed and will likely make my job much easier if I can design the chassis and then work on a separate piece for the mag retention/trigger guard area.

I would post pictures but they aren't mine... they can be found by googling eye candy euro shot show.

This would help me a ton as I can worry about the problems of inletting for the action and then retaining the mag at the proper height separately. Just thinking out loud here.

This won't pick up steam until after I graduate but I still am excited to give this a try! I need to figure out dimensions. I might even start by ripping down a 4x4 post on the table saw and seeing where the sweet spot as far as width and knocking down the corners goes. I will probably work up my inlet with wood too and then see what it takes to make it in aluminum. I'd probably leave the forend alone if I like it.

From the rear action screw back I would probably want to make it steel/kydex. Something tubular, and adjustable, that would help me to balance the weight a bit and be rugged.

Probably a bit long winded but I figured it would be better to bounce ideas around than make something that won't work.
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

Make the chassis, it is a fun project but you will need at least a manual mill. I have made 4 in the last few years and and finishing up 2 right now. Massoud is right it is LOT of work and I am still playing with my designs and how to make a chassis efficiently enough to even consider making them for more than friends/family. I would recommend looking at making a detachable mag rather than internal.

If done right you will have a rigid stock with all the features you want and need. Mine have cost me less than $100 in materials excluding AICS mag but if you figure your time and shop equipment depreciation as worth anything a XLR/Manners/McMillan/AICS/ KRG stock would be cheap PM me if you get stuck.
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

IMG_20120229_214159.jpg


IMG_20120229_214508.jpg


6mmxc, hart barrel, work by me, shoots like a house afire, I've since changed designs, I'll get it right someday or break down and draw it in CAD before making chips.
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

JW,

Nice mauser, internal mag or DBM? Is that a 1919 barrel I see hanging off the action? Is the hex for a quick change setup or an adaptor/insert to mate up a chrome lined barrel to a non intended action or both?
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

Thanks! It has an 8 round internal magazine. Yes that is an Israeli 7.62 chrome lined barrel, I have used a bunch of those. The hex block is there to support the extremely heavy barrel. The standard Mauser receiver is a bit flexy with that much weight on it. To preserve the chrome chamber I sleeved the barrel in the thread area and then fitted it to the receiver.
 
Re: Milling aluminum chassis

Wow thanks again for all of the encouragement and examples! I think these are some fine examples of what can be done with skill and patience.

How tight do tolerances need to be held on a project like this? How tight should the slot for the recoil lug etc? I was thinking if I get the holes drilled for the action screws I can be a bit generous in inletting and then epoxy bed it... is that a bad idea?