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mitutoyo digital caliper- Are they really worth it?

BuildingConceptsllc

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Minuteman
  • Nov 13, 2020
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    I have 2 digital calipers amd both are cheap sets. I only use the Franklin Armory one for loading because it's easier to slide with one hand and hold the bullet or case with the other.

    I don't have an issue with paying for more expensive stuff if it's worth it, but is it? My cheap ones seem to measure pretty well honestly. Looks like you have to spend pretty serious money to get anything that is accurate beyond .001" , is there any reason to get one that goes beyond that?

    Also, how much benefit would I really get out of a Mic? Thought about trying to get a set with caliper and mic?

    Lastly, if anyone has the anvil base on their calipers, do you use it a lot and is it helpful in getting consistent measurments?

    Thanks guys, look forward to input and the other threads I saw about this was really all recs vs the why.
     
    Yes, totally worth it. You don't feel like you have to fight for zero or a consistent measurement. The Mitutoyo 500-196-30 will work fine, I don't see a need for anything of higher accuracy.

    Micrometers are also rather handy, especially a ball micrometer if you want to measure neck thickness. The anvil base, if you mean the Hornady one, might end up causing more problems if it's not totally flat.
     
    Same boat as OP.
    Im embarrassed of how long I ran a $30 Cabelas caliper.

    Upgraded to a Mitutoyo set a couple months ago & IMHO it’s 100% worth it.

    They just feel better. Smooth as butter/ repeatable readings much easier than the cheap sets.

    Will they make better Ammo? Prolly not….but it’s a better user experience.
     
    Yes, totally worth it. You don't feel like you have to fight for zero or a consistent measurement. The Mitutoyo 500-196-30 will work fine, I don't see a need for anything of higher accuracy.

    Micrometers are also rather handy, especially a ball micrometer if you want to measure neck thickness. The anvil base, if you mean the Hornady one, might end up causing more problems if it's not totally flat.
    Is there anther base or something that will make it easier to get consistent measurements? Specifically for 6mm bullets actually. I haven't had much issue except for those are more trouble than I'd like to get consistent measurements.
     
    Is there anther base or something that will make it easier to get consistent measurements? Specifically for 6mm bullets actually. I haven't had much issue except for those are more trouble than I'd like to get consistent measurements.
    I'd go without the base altogether and see how that works. I think you'll find that inconsistency will go away with the calipers alone. If you want better headspace/bullet comparators, check out the ones from Short Action Customs or Sinclair.
     
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    Guess I will be getting a new set of calipers. Not sure about the mic yet
    The mitutoyos 500-196-30 are a great step up. They simply just feel more confident.

    And yeah, it’s easier with the anvil base, you can easily spin it to have it bottom out naturally without having to fight it. It’s just more convenient and worth the 20 dollar bill.


    I got a cheap manual rcbs ball mic for like 50 bucks, could have been on sale. It’s not something you’ll use often but it has saved me a bunch of chasing my tail on other avenues by simply being able to get a number.
     
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    The mitutoyos 500-196-30 are a great step up. They simply just feel more confident.

    And yeah, it’s easier with the anvil base, you can easily spin it to have it bottom out naturally without having to fight it. It’s just more convenient and worth the 20 dollar bill.


    I got a cheap manual rcbs ball mic for like 50 bucks, could have been on sale. It’s not something you’ll use often but it has saved me a bunch of chasing my tail on other avenues by simply being able to get a number.
    This is exactly what I was wanting to know. Thank you
     
    I guess this will sound stupid, but I am searching for "caliper anvil base" and find nothing?
    Anyone have a good link for one for the Mitutoyos 500-196-30 ?
     
    I guess this will sound stupid, but I am searching for "caliper anvil base" and find nothing?
    Anyone have a good link for one for the Mitutoyos 500-196-30 ?
    Hornady is the only one I'm aware of but maybe Sinclair or someone also makes one?
     
    Hornady is the only one I'm aware of but maybe Sinclair or someone also makes one?
    There is a much nicer one that is often listed in the PX made by a member.

    The Hornady one is a PITA to get and keep square to the jaws.
     
    The Hornady base that I have will not stay square when tightening the set screw. It was a waste of money.
     
    I have a set of Shars that I've used for the last 4 years. They ain't cheap but they ain't mitutoyo money either.
     
    Mitutoyo 500-752-20,
    Coolant Proof Digimatic Caliper,
    0-6", IP67, 0005" 0/01 mm

    Absolutely a beast of a tool,worth every penny.
    If you look around you can find them for $150.
    Zoro Tool is one place
     
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    Reactions: gigamortis
    All i use at work is mitutoyo calipers that read.down to .0005 , but i cover the tenths reading with tape because i dont need it and dont trust it.

    If you want tenths, buy some micrometers. At home i have 8" B&S dial calipers with a bullet die i made.
     
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    Do you know what they call it or who makes it?
     
    No idea what that means.

    Field reloading while taking fire in mud?

    I'm not that hardcore of a reloader.

    No it means use it hard the way they are intended to be used,as in making a living with them.
    For occasional use where mistakes won't cost you potentially lost income yours would be fine.
     
    No it means use it hard the way they are intended to be used,as in making a living with them.
    For occasional use where mistakes won't cost you potentially lost income yours would be fine.
    Fair enough. I've never considered using calipers hard in a reloading setting. The budget calipers are doing the job with no complaints from me. I spent my mitutoyo money on components instead. No regrets.
     
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    I dislike my Hornady chicom calipers immensely but spending 150-200$ on a mitutoyo is a bit too much. I heard you can salvage a few of the broken one on eBay for dirt cheap and fix them yourselves
     
    I have a digit mitutoyo and a Pittsburgh dial. I mainly use the mituyoto cause I can zero it. But measured against the Pittsburgh? .001” difference. It doesn’t matter what you use. Cheap or expensive. It’s all relative. As long as the caliper is consistent? That’s all you need.
     
    Mitutoyo 500-752-20,
    Coolant Proof Digimatic Caliper,
    0-6", IP67, 0005" 0/01 mm

    Absolutely a beast of a tool,worth every penny.
    If you look around you can find them for $150.
    Zoro Tool is one place
    This is the one I have. It has an auto shutoff. The regular digimatic doesn't have an auto shutoff. My old workplace had a few of the regular digimatics and damn near everyone always forgot to shut them off, but the batteries still lasted 6-12 months in them with no problem.
     
    For a tool that’s accurate to +/-.001”, yes, they’re worth what you pay.
     
    I have several.
    Yes Mitutoyos are good.....but Starret are just as good if not better.
    They are at least made in the US.
    I looked into your Starret, was very interested in buying simply because you said made in the USA. Not true looks under specifications, says right there made in American NO. At least this one isn’t.

    EC799A-6/150 Electronic Caliper​

    Nor are many of the others listed below. I would like to find a nice one that is made in the USA. Support support.
    Looked deeper found this one in a dial option

    120A-6 Dial Caliper with SLC

    Made in the USA.
     
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    This is the one I have. It has an auto shutoff. The regular digimatic doesn't have an auto shutoff. My old workplace had a few of the regular digimatics and damn near everyone always forgot to shut them off, but the batteries still lasted 6-12 months in them with no problem.
    That's very helpful. Thank you. I will make sure to get the auto shut off, but it's nice to know that the others still have such long battery life being on pretty much all the time. I'm thinking of getting those calipers and a cheaper mic. I won't use the mic much. Thoughts on that idea?
     
    Mine seems to work similar to my Hornady calipers….unfortunately the Hornady ones shit the bed after a year of use.
     
    That's very helpful. Thank you. I will make sure to get the auto shut off, but it's nice to know that the others still have such long battery life being on pretty much all the time. I'm thinking of getting those calipers and a cheaper mic. I won't use the mic much. Thoughts on that idea?
    The one I listed is a tank that is liquid proof.
     
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    Been running the Toyos and anvil base for a good while. Easy, smooth, and consistently accurate to the half-thou. When I first got them I’d occasionally double check my measurements with my Starrett micrometer… until I learned I didn’t need to. Yes… they’re worth every penny.

    Edit- Like someone mentioned above don’t look for a “great deal” unless you want a pos counterfeit tool. All authentic Mitutoyo calipers come with a real-deal Japanese SR44 battery. I still haven’t seen a fake that didn’t have some Ching Shinn or equivalent trash battery. I get my measuring tools from MSIViking.

    BBDDB755-892D-43A2-963A-F1EC0449EF43.png
     
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    Boils down simply to whether you're a guy who prefers quality tools or a guy who is fine with lower end tools. I have two sets of Mitutoyos. Have always wondered how long they'd last if I just left them on but never got around to trying.
     
    That's very helpful. Thank you. I will make sure to get the auto shut off, but it's nice to know that the others still have such long battery life being on pretty much all the time. I'm thinking of getting those calipers and a cheaper mic. I won't use the mic much. Thoughts on that idea?
    Would you put a counter sniper scope on an AI?

    Do you do anything that would require the precision of a quality micrometer? Do you plan to buy a stand for the micrometer?
     
    A little late to the party but I will mention 5 things:

    1. I have had very good luck with MSI Viking for metrology:

    2. 6" calipers are kind of the "go to" for most people and they are on sale:

    3. 8" I found work better for larger calibers, e.g., .338 LM (you have more room for your hand), also on sale

    4. I also bought some 12" which work great for .375CT (again, more room for your hand, although the 12" are big and heavy!)

    5. I use a Hornady anvil and for me, it works great!
     
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    I bought a relatively inexpensive digital caliper from a reloading brand when I started. I never really trusted it and it seemed to give inconsistent readings. I thought it was just uneven case bases or something else odd... Eventually it died and last year I upgraded to a Mitutoyo 500-196-30. I'm so glad I spent the extra money on it. The quality and consistency is amazing. It's just such a relief to have a tool you can trust.
     
    WTF is with you people and digital readouts. (queue OK Boomer moment). I love my dial (Mituoyo of course) and yeah it never 'reads' zero for things like shoulder bump but going from 24 to 22 is never a problem (when I can get my dies set). And it
    NEVER
    RUNS
    OUT
    OF
    BATTERY

    However about the anvil head---and yeah the Hornady Headspace is a PITA. But that occurs independant of caliper
     
    Using precision measuring tools takes practice and consistency.
    Add in you should know

    why your measuring
    Are you using the correct measuring device
    What does it mean if you are + and -
    How much +/- is “ok”
    …there’s much more

    As said above there’s a lot more than just squeezing your thumb and getting a number.
     
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    I’m all for buying top end tools, ESPECIALLY measuring tools. The accuracy and consistency is worth every penny if you are trying to actually be precise.

    I’ve never regretted buying a top end tool.