Is there any pro to going with moly coated bullets. I have always shot smk's non moly. Have heard some swear by the moly coated bullets. Is the cleaning much worse, and is the any advantage to them?
Moly coated ? And why?
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Re: Moly coated ? And why?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RWG818</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there any pro to going with moly coated bullets. I have always shot smk's non moly. Have heard some swear by the moly coated bullets. Is the cleaning much worse, and is the any advantage to them? </div></div>
Moly vs. non-moly is like 9mm vs. 45acp, or Notre Dame football, you're either a fan, or you believe they're the devil.
I have the Lyman moly kit and have some factory moly bullets that I shoot here and there, so while I use moly, it's not something I swear by.
You will get slightly lower pressures with moly, a high pressure (400k PSI lubricant) and will need to bump up your loads for non-moly bullets, a grain to achieve roughly the same velocity.
Benchrest shooters feel that they can shoot longer strings between cleanings, with moly bullets.
In the early days of moly, many used the coffee can and BBs method to attempt to pound the moly into the jacket surface pores and that method left a lot of moly clumped onto the surface. This clumped on moly usually deposited itself into the first inch, or two, of the barrel yielding the dreaded 'black moly ring' just past the throat. This would build up, much like a carbon ring which can form and lead to higher pressures.
Moly can, in some circumstances, trap moisture against the barrel steel and cause pitting and/or corrosion, but I think this is probably overblown these days. You're not getting much moly coating on a bore by firing a few bullets.
Many feel that if you're going to shoot them, shoot only moly bullets and don't go back to nakeds, but I don't know if this is scientifically proven, to cause problems.
Moly can be removed by stuff like USP, or JB's Bore Paste, so it's not a big issue, removing it if you're judicious in your application of the paste, which is an abbrasive.
Modern moly bullets are not clumpy, so the black ring shouldn't be an issue any longer.
Ultimately, it's up to you.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RWG818</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there any pro to going with moly coated bullets. I have always shot smk's non moly. Have heard some swear by the moly coated bullets. Is the cleaning much worse, and is the any advantage to them? </div></div>
Moly vs. non-moly is like 9mm vs. 45acp, or Notre Dame football, you're either a fan, or you believe they're the devil.
I have the Lyman moly kit and have some factory moly bullets that I shoot here and there, so while I use moly, it's not something I swear by.
You will get slightly lower pressures with moly, a high pressure (400k PSI lubricant) and will need to bump up your loads for non-moly bullets, a grain to achieve roughly the same velocity.
Benchrest shooters feel that they can shoot longer strings between cleanings, with moly bullets.
In the early days of moly, many used the coffee can and BBs method to attempt to pound the moly into the jacket surface pores and that method left a lot of moly clumped onto the surface. This clumped on moly usually deposited itself into the first inch, or two, of the barrel yielding the dreaded 'black moly ring' just past the throat. This would build up, much like a carbon ring which can form and lead to higher pressures.
Moly can, in some circumstances, trap moisture against the barrel steel and cause pitting and/or corrosion, but I think this is probably overblown these days. You're not getting much moly coating on a bore by firing a few bullets.
Many feel that if you're going to shoot them, shoot only moly bullets and don't go back to nakeds, but I don't know if this is scientifically proven, to cause problems.
Moly can be removed by stuff like USP, or JB's Bore Paste, so it's not a big issue, removing it if you're judicious in your application of the paste, which is an abbrasive.
Modern moly bullets are not clumpy, so the black ring shouldn't be an issue any longer.
Ultimately, it's up to you.
Chris
Re: Moly coated ? And why?
Thanks chris wasnt aware of the "old technique" being the cause the black ring.
I used to use moly, but dont any more.
I may be inclined to use it again if I was concerned about a particular rifle giving pressure signs at an early stage but besides that I think it has not much use in my kit.
I would like to see HBN make its way into commercial projectile sales.
Thanks chris wasnt aware of the "old technique" being the cause the black ring.
I used to use moly, but dont any more.
I may be inclined to use it again if I was concerned about a particular rifle giving pressure signs at an early stage but besides that I think it has not much use in my kit.
I would like to see HBN make its way into commercial projectile sales.
Re: Moly coated ? And why?
HBN is the way to go if you are going to coat your projos. There are a few posts if you search that address doing so. One method is using "to go" cereal containers, BBs, and a vibratory tumbler.
Josh
HBN is the way to go if you are going to coat your projos. There are a few posts if you search that address doing so. One method is using "to go" cereal containers, BBs, and a vibratory tumbler.
Josh
Re: Moly coated ? And why?
thanks for the info. So i can stick with what i know works well. there is no real sigificant advantage or disadvantage for that matter to it.
thanks for the info. So i can stick with what i know works well. there is no real sigificant advantage or disadvantage for that matter to it.
Re: Moly coated ? And why?
No that is not correct . There is advantages to Mos2 Moly in certain shooting circumstances and not much in other circumstances.
It all depends on your pattern of use .
If you want to shoot 10 shot groups and you must clean the barrel after every 10 rounds then moly will not be a big help.
However if you decide you want to shoot strings of dozens or even hundreds of shots before cleaning then it can be a big help to maintaining accuracy over the longer string without cleaning.
No that is not correct . There is advantages to Mos2 Moly in certain shooting circumstances and not much in other circumstances.
It all depends on your pattern of use .
If you want to shoot 10 shot groups and you must clean the barrel after every 10 rounds then moly will not be a big help.
However if you decide you want to shoot strings of dozens or even hundreds of shots before cleaning then it can be a big help to maintaining accuracy over the longer string without cleaning.
Re: Moly coated ? And why?
I have used moly exclusively for a number of years, mainly because I have it and it is easy enough to apply. I do not find that my barrels last any longer than they did before, but I feel that my accuracy window is much bigger with moly, meaning a couple of hundred rounds without cleaning before seeing fouling affect accuracy.
Having said that, though, I do feel that both the advantages and the disadvantages of moly are usually greatly exaggerated.
Paul
I have used moly exclusively for a number of years, mainly because I have it and it is easy enough to apply. I do not find that my barrels last any longer than they did before, but I feel that my accuracy window is much bigger with moly, meaning a couple of hundred rounds without cleaning before seeing fouling affect accuracy.
Having said that, though, I do feel that both the advantages and the disadvantages of moly are usually greatly exaggerated.
Paul
Re: Moly coated ? And why?
I agree with Chris from Miami.
You either love it or hate it! I go with 45acp and my wife carries the "nine".
I'm an "outcast" in my circle of hunting and shooting buddies just for the fact I loovvve moly. I started buying my MK's in the 500ct boxes moly coated a few years back; and, now, I only shoot moly for long range.
My hunting bullets are all "normal" ballistic tips and sp's.
As for the benefits; for me, I found that I could double and sometimes triple the amount of rounds fired before loosing accuracy and cleaning.
As for cleaning moly:
There are a lot of articles and claims by solvents as to what works best. So, find what works for you. What I do know is that it takes a little more "elbow grease and patience" to clean the moly fowled barrel. A guy has to have something to do when he runs out of ammo and his wife won't let him borrow $$$. So clean the most precious possesions you own.
I've heard a lot of good things about the pastes', but personally have never tried.
I use a two step method:
1. Solution of half Hoppes #9 and half Kano Kroil - patch and brush as you would any other fouled rifle.
2. When I stop seeing the dark pathes of moly - I then switch to Butches to get rid of any residual copper that might be hiding.
I have a bad case of O.C.D., so this may seem silly to some, but, it works for me.
Now that you got a clean barrell, hang in there with me, you may have to run a few rounds through it to "re-coat" an "initial coat" of moly to get those tight groups back. For me, after about the fifth round it is drving tacks again.
Like I said, you either love it or hate it!
P.S. One other advantage, your "lazy broke buddies" won't be borrowing ammo from ya.
I agree with Chris from Miami.
You either love it or hate it! I go with 45acp and my wife carries the "nine".
I'm an "outcast" in my circle of hunting and shooting buddies just for the fact I loovvve moly. I started buying my MK's in the 500ct boxes moly coated a few years back; and, now, I only shoot moly for long range.
My hunting bullets are all "normal" ballistic tips and sp's.
As for the benefits; for me, I found that I could double and sometimes triple the amount of rounds fired before loosing accuracy and cleaning.
As for cleaning moly:
There are a lot of articles and claims by solvents as to what works best. So, find what works for you. What I do know is that it takes a little more "elbow grease and patience" to clean the moly fowled barrel. A guy has to have something to do when he runs out of ammo and his wife won't let him borrow $$$. So clean the most precious possesions you own.
I've heard a lot of good things about the pastes', but personally have never tried.
I use a two step method:
1. Solution of half Hoppes #9 and half Kano Kroil - patch and brush as you would any other fouled rifle.
2. When I stop seeing the dark pathes of moly - I then switch to Butches to get rid of any residual copper that might be hiding.
I have a bad case of O.C.D., so this may seem silly to some, but, it works for me.
Now that you got a clean barrell, hang in there with me, you may have to run a few rounds through it to "re-coat" an "initial coat" of moly to get those tight groups back. For me, after about the fifth round it is drving tacks again.
Like I said, you either love it or hate it!
P.S. One other advantage, your "lazy broke buddies" won't be borrowing ammo from ya.
Re: Moly coated ? And why?
the thing that made me a believer (love it) is that after 10 or 11 rounds of .300 win mag, my shot started to wander a bit. after using the moly coating, that stopped.
same for the .308, after about 15 rounds, started wandering. the moly stopped it.
i haven't found any cleaning issues other than it seems easier to do so.
the thing that made me a believer (love it) is that after 10 or 11 rounds of .300 win mag, my shot started to wander a bit. after using the moly coating, that stopped.
same for the .308, after about 15 rounds, started wandering. the moly stopped it.
i haven't found any cleaning issues other than it seems easier to do so.
Re: Moly coated ? And why?
I agree with the two posters above . Cleaning is not a big issue.
Some make it an issue because they feel it is necessary to try and remove every skerick of moly. Why when you are going to put more back in. The copper is what you want to concentrate on and in doing that any moly build up is removed also.
250 shots is as far as I have gone without cleaning in a 223 and the accuarcy did not fall off . I got nervous about not cleaning because I was used to doing it so often so I chickened out at 250 shots .
I agree with the two posters above . Cleaning is not a big issue.
Some make it an issue because they feel it is necessary to try and remove every skerick of moly. Why when you are going to put more back in. The copper is what you want to concentrate on and in doing that any moly build up is removed also.
250 shots is as far as I have gone without cleaning in a 223 and the accuarcy did not fall off . I got nervous about not cleaning because I was used to doing it so often so I chickened out at 250 shots .
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