Mount can on MkII?

[StuartV]

I have a NYX Mod 2 in jail.

I have a Ruger Mk II pistol that I've had for I think about 30 years now. 6" (IIRC) bull/target barrel.

I was looking at a thread on 22LR pistol suppressor host choices. A common statement was that the Mk II is the most accurate, at least of the Ruger 22LR pistols.

And there was a picture of what looked like the same Mk II that I have, with a can on the end.

What is the best way I can make that happen? Do I just get the barrel threaded? Does the front sight have to be relocated backwards for that to happen? I'm assuming it does. Is there a place that is known to be "good" to do this work, or would any place that threads barrels be able to do what I need?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[MK20]

Yeah, you can get it threaded and the sight just gets bumped back or cut to be short.

 

[07SGT4623]

I have a Ruger Mark II bull barrel and just couldn’t convince myself to thread it. So. bought a Mark IV 22/45 Lite which is momentarily easier to clean

 

[StuartV]

I have a Ruger Mark II bull barrel and just couldn’t convince myself to thread it. So. bought a Mark IV 22/45 Lite which is momentarily easier to clean

I get that. I am picking up my new Volquartsen Black Mamba-X at lunch today. But, after seeing the posts in that other thread about the Mk II being more accurate (but maybe not more accurate than the Volquartsen?), it just got me to thinking about getting that one sorted out to also run my can.

Part of me says "ahh, just leave it alone". But, another part of me says that if I just leave it alone, once I start shooting 22 with a can, I'll probably never shoot the other one again, if it means shooting with no can.

 

[07SGT4623]

Totally get it. I really thought about it and I guess since I put a red dot on it why not but we shall see. I still shoot it without a can when i shoot the Mark IV

 

[StuartV]

I will most likely take them both out to shoot, just to compare accuracy. After that - and fully expecting that the V will be at least as accurate as my bone stock Mk II - I will likely only normally shoot the V, just because I'm too lazy to clean 2 guns if leaving one at home doesn't really take anything away.

 

[Charger442]

The mkII is the pinnacle of perfection in rimfire pistols.

 

[6gunner]

I have an old 22/45. I didn’t want to tread the barrel so I ordered a Tactical Solutions upper.

 

[StuartV]

The mkII is the pinnacle of perfection in rimfire pistols.

So, would it be sacrilege to replace the barrel with a Tac-Sol?

I feel like if I start down that path, I'm also going to want to upgrade the trigger. And then probably the bolt.

And I end up with almost a whole new gun and a box of parts that is almost enough to build another original gun.

Which is why I bought this new Volquartsen in the first place...

 

[hlee]

You have the Volquartsen. Shoot it. A lot. Like, ALOT. Suppressed. Then decide if you want to always shoot suppressed. If so, thread the MKii. But, for my money, there are times that an unsuppressed 22lr is fine. Suppressors are great on the range, but make the pistol awkward to carry. I’d use the volq on the range, and keep the mkii unthreaded for “woods walking.”

Then again, my only 22lr pistol has a threaded barrel.

 

[Charger442]

So, would it be sacrilege to replace the barrel with a Tac-Sol?

I feel like if I start down that path, I'm also going to want to upgrade the trigger. And then probably the bolt.

And I end up with almost a whole new gun and a box of parts that is almost enough to build another original gun.

Which is why I bought this new Volquartsen in the first place...

I did but I used a specimen that was badly rusted and pitted, cut down the barrel and threaded and coated it.

So nothing of actual value was lost. If I had a mint peice MkII, I would have a hard time cutting and threading it.

 

[Sniff]

I had a 'spare' 22/45 that I got from my old man when he gave up shooting.

A suppressed .22 pistol was on my list of wants, so I had a friend shorten and thread the barrel and I screwed on a spare MAE stainless steel can.

The can is intended for .22 Magnum and Hornet, but will withstand .223 (Not as quiet as a can designed for .223 though, obviously) and is a bigger diameter than the barrel, but is very quiet with subsonic or standard velocity ammo.

It's a sealed unit, so I'll just stick it in the ultrasonic cleaner every now and again.

I have other cans the same diameter as the barrel but they are longer.

 

[StuartV]

You have the Volquartsen. Shoot it. A lot. Like, ALOT. Suppressed. Then decide if you want to always shoot suppressed. If so, thread the MKii. But, for my money, there are times that an unsuppressed 22lr is fine. Suppressors are great on the range, but make the pistol awkward to carry. I’d use the volq on the range, and keep the mkii unthreaded for “woods walking.”

Then again, my only 22lr pistol has a threaded barrel.

You make it sound like once I screw a can in it can never be removed.

Seriously, though, that is kinda the conclusion I have come to. Leave the Mk 2 alone, for now, shoot the Volquartsen, and decide later if I thread the Mk 2 or not.

 

[hlee]

You make it sound like once I screw a can in it can never be removed.

Seriously, though, that is kinda the conclusion I have come to. Leave the Mk 2 alone, for now, shoot the Volquartsen, and decide later if I thread the Mk 2 or not.

You can always thread a barrel. But once threaded, it cannot be “unthreaded.” I’ve read that threading a barrel can cause the muzzle to “bell,” which leads to reduced precision. If this were to occur, it could invalidate the reason you state that you want to thread the barrel (inherent precision of the mkii).

You mentioned earlier that you feared that you wouldn’t shoot this gun again once you get the suppressor, if it couldn’t also be suppressed. I’m just suggesting a use case for an unsuppressed pistol. Unless you find that you only want to shoot suppressed, there is a use case for an unthreaded pistol.

 

[Big Phish]

Found this 4” Mk2 with Clark custom internal a few years ago cheap. Had it threaded. Don’t care for iron sights since I put a Vortex Venom red dot on it. Can is Rugged Oculus.

 

[Norther]

It's a sealed unit, so I'll just stick it in the ultrasonic cleaner every now and again.

You won’t be able to clean it that way. At least my ultrasonic doesn’t do much with .22 LR fouling. That stuff is STUBBORN.

But you can probably shoot a very long time before the buildup affects the sound though. I have a sealed integral I got in the last century that has a lot of rounds through it. Still quiet but it’s getting pretty heavy.

OP: I wouldn’t thread it. By the time you pay to have the barrel threaded and the sight relocated you’re pretty far toward the price of a new gun.

A new gun is always the answer.

 

[BillZ]

You won’t be able to clean it that way. At least my ultrasonic doesn’t do much with .22 LR fouling. That stuff is STUBBORN.

But you can probably shoot a very long time before the buildup affects the sound though. I have a sealed integral I got in the last century that has a lot of rounds through it. Still quiet but it’s getting pretty heavy.

OP: I wouldn’t thread it. By the time you pay to have the barrel threaded and the sight relocated you’re pretty far toward the price of a new gun.

A new gun is always the answer.

If you watch the clearance section on the VQ site they usually have an assortment of new Ruger barrels/uppers for sale. I picked up a 3.5" upper, threaded, front sight set back with a Ruger gun case for $100. You have to watch the site frequently, the barrels go quickly.

 

[Sniff]

You won’t be able to clean it that way. At least my ultrasonic doesn’t do much with .22 LR fouling. That stuff is STUBBORN.

I clean my suppressors, rimfire and centrefire in my ultrasonic cleaner, usually without any difficulty.

 

[Norther]

If you watch the clearance section on the VQ site they usually have an assortment of new Ruger barrels/uppers for sale. I picked up a 3.5" upper, threaded, front sight set back with a Ruger gun case for $100. You have to watch the site frequently, the barrels go quickly.

I’ve checked there intermittently. Lately they’ve all been Mark IVs.

 

[Norther]

I clean my suppressors, rimfire and centrefire in my ultrasonic cleaner, usually without any difficulty.

Maybe I let mine get too dirty. Or I have a crappy ultrasonic. What do you use for solvent?

My integral has aluminum baffles, so I’m hesitant to really go after it with the ultrasonic.

 

[Sniff]

I used diluted Simple Green and hot water. Most of my cans have steel or stainless steel bodies and baffles.

One of my aluminum cans has a stainless baffle first from the muzzle for the blast, before the alloy baffles, . I'll email the manufacturer about ultrasonic cleaning to see what they say.

 

[Norther]

Simple Green was what I tried, a long time at full heat with a titanium .22 can with probably way too many rounds through it. Didn't remove much but it softened it a bit. I had to go after it with picks.

 

[DFOOSKING]

Maybe I let mine get too dirty. Or I have a crappy ultrasonic. What do you use for solvent?

My integral has aluminum baffles, so I’m hesitant to really go after it with the ultrasonic.

Anything with ammonia in it will eat aluminum. Pretty much all popular solvents have it. AAC recommended/assured to me Kroil prior to purchasing my sealed all aluminum can. Kroil doesn't do fuck all but stink and leach out for days. And that's after soaking for days.

I had a shop hang my can vertically in a large ultrasonic. Did nothing. I said, I was even willing to sign a waiver saying I didn't care if the can was damaged. I have been told ultrasonic cleaners can open micro cracks in the aluminum...basically destroying the parts. So far I've seen no sign of damage using a basic toaster sized on or the big professional one.

I have a buddy with a machine shop with a industrial oven. He said we could heat the can slowly hanging vertically in the oven to see if we melt the lead out that way. Or get just some out. Something like to 700°F (I don't remember the exact temp) where lead melts but aluminum is still fine.

"The Dip" will clean it. But the remnants worry me. Especially days/weeks down the road....when the can/rifle is laying say in the truck. Or when we get a bunch of shooting done and the can is smoking. Are you inviting super hazardous lead acetate to be breathed in or get on shit you make contact with? I don't know.

 

[Norther]

"The Dip" will clean it.

Is the Dip aluminum safe? Somehow I didn’t think so.

Seems like a thorough rinsing after would take care of anything that would work its way out later. Maybe some compressed air after rinsing, holding it inside a garbage bag.

 

[hlee]

Boretech c4 cleaner will allow all but the most stubborn fouling on/in a rimfire can wipe out with a cloth. Maybe that’s not much help in a sealed can, but it is very effect on surfaces that can be reached. The really stubborn stuff will still need a pick, but the can doesn’t need to be factory fresh to be effective.

 

[Csafisher]

I think you’ll be pleased with the accuracy of your mamba. My scorpion shoots under an inch easily at 25yds off a rest with CCI SV.